
December 24, 2023

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Twenty Choice French spirits for Christmas Eve - 2017 to 1914

Cognac

Cognac, mobilisation of September 4, 1914 (Geneanet)

I couldn't really celebrate Christmas Eve without a few top-shelf cognacs and armagnacs. When I was a little boy, in the 1990s (yes, but of course, S.), these spirits always graced the family tables at the end of festive meals. Typically, they were presented on large trays ceremoniously brought out by grandfather, alongside numerous fruit brandies, liqueurs 'for the ladies' (terrible times indeed, thankfully all that has been cancelled) and, if we were lucky, a bottle of whisky of any origin, a survivor of the aperitif, generally brought back exclusively from the duty-free shops at airports by the 'men' of the family of travelling age. But one should never ask for the origins, the Scotch, Canadians, bourbons, and Irish were all lumped together. After all, it was just grain, distilled by cowboys or bagpipers and meant to be consumed exclusively with very large amounts of ice cubes and soda water, as an aperitif. In fact, I often found the same bottle Sunday after Sunday, the levels not going down much. It's true that there was mainly Champagne... Anyway, since then, I've seen the light and I think I've made up a lot for whisky, but those ancient cognacs and armagnacs, not always very good, by the way, remain etched in my memory forever. Happy Holidays!
We're going to taste all this at random... eenie, meenie, minie, moe... Oh, for old times' sake...

Martell V.S.O.P. 'Médaillon' (no A.B.V., probably 40%, OB, 'Duty Free Only', +/-1980)

Colour: deep amber with copper tones. Nose: wow, winner! Unexpectedly rich and aromatic, very floral, with the usual stewed peaches, also Turkish delights, great sultanas, no traces of straight caramel but there is some tarte tatin, maple syrup and a little damp earth and perhaps whiffs of cigars wetted with cognac, as my grandpas used to smoke them. Pears poached in white wine. This is a true time machine, but I don't have much hope as far as the palate is concerned… Mouth: it is, indeed, a little flatter, with more burnt caramel, which would lead to notes of cardboard and burnt wood, pancake sauce, raisins, corn syrup… Old-style cognac character, and we're not talking about high-end bottles. Nose and palate are wildly different in that respect. Finish: medium, full of syrup and, most probably, rather a lot of boisé. A drop of chicken soup in the aftertaste, probably OBE. Comments: this is a little sad, the nose was quite superb.
SGP:641 - 76 points.

Tesseron 'Lot N°76 X.O Tradition' (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2022)

Possibly a 1976. Lot 90 was excellent (WF 87), Lot 53 brilliant (WF 90) and lot 29 a notch disappointing (WF 84). It's true that bottling at 40% vol. has become very 1990 indeed, let's see if this little 76 has been slaughtered or not… Colour: deep gold. Nose: I'm finding it extremely delicate, very floral, with some orange blossom water, honeysuckle, dandelions, then apricot jam, quince jelly, jasmine and some very elegant kind of mountain meadow honey, as well as preserved peaches, as (almost) usual. A splendid nose, indeed, but it does whisper a little bit, which I find a little frightening. I find some white wines bigger on the nose. Mouth: good, it's not flat, it's not even thin, but it is a little frustrating, we would have enjoyed a little more body to support this lovely maple syrup, the honeys, the flower fitters (acacia, zucchini)… What's more, it's starting to nosedive after twenty seconds, letting a little cardboard come out. And yet, these figs, this menthol, these raisins, these hints of white pepper, all that is excellent. Finish: short, sadly. Very frustrating, and it's certainly not the old Martell that's casting a shadow over this Tesseron. Peaches. Comments: we know that the French are much afraid of high alcohol content, and that the general public doesn't want it, but is this really a bottle for the general public? That said, the prices are very reasonable (£120), so can we really complain… And the juice was first-class.
SGP:441 - 81 points.

Dec 28 Update: Regarding Tesseron Cognacs, the lot numbers do not reflect the vintage, as is often the case nowadays. We are always dealing with multi-vintages. When they started bottling themselves rather than selling to the big houses, in 2003 from memory, and created their range, it was roughly the average year of distillation of the juices entering each lot. So, Lot 90 was and remains about 13-15 years, Lot 76 around 25-30 years, Lot 29 about 70 years, etc. Twenty years ago the practice of using 'lots' to suggest vintages while avoiding the existing extreme regulatory constraints was not as common as it has become today. (thanks a lot Nicolas H.!)

Good, I think we've had enough apéritif, let's talk…

Jean-Luc Pasquet 2017/2023 (40%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, The Pioneers, Petite Champagne, cask #72, 421 bottles)

English people offering their own selection of cognac – and at 40% vol. mind you - isn't this like a return to the 1920s! And provocation? Seriously, we're expecting Agatha Christie's heirs to write a novel about this one. Colour: gold. Nose: got it, it's first about peel and oils, then about flowers and waxes. Lilac, spearmint, paraffin, pollen, leather polish, tiny whiffs of proper white truffle (Alba, 2,875.75€ a kilogram for smaller ones at time of writing, which is crazy), plus a drop of that sweet brown sauce they serve with dim-sum (not hoisin). Lovable, characterful nose, but will the palate stand the course at 40%? Mouth: okay, I get it, they wanted to highlight the texture of the spirit, which holds up so well that even at 40% ABV, it stands its ground. And it's true that the herbs, wax, and polish, the skins of nuts and apples, or even the peels of citrus fruits and the lily of the valley notes do the job. It remains that it would be interesting to compare it with the same juice bottled at 45 or 46% ABV. But it's true that the texture is spectacular (yes, we've got it!) Finish: of average length, even a bit short. Herbaceous with wax and caraway, and a pronounced signature of orange blossom. Alright, it holds up. Comments: a very fine demonstration, but still, 40% ABV... Even though it does overshadow the old '76'.
SGP:451 - 86 points.

Famille Cabanne 'Lot 68' (55.7%, The Whisky Jury, The Purist, Petite Champagne, 497 bottles, 2023)

A fairly large 'little' house in the Charente that's behind other brands such a Richard Delisle and their own brands of whisky and rum that they distribute. They do distill too! Colour: golden apricot. Nose: awesome start, towards liquorice, pastis, aniseed, spearmint… That's fairly unusual indeed but it works a treat, especially since you'll also find many juicy raisins, our friends the apricots and the peaches, mirabelles, honeys, triple-sec, mead… The liquorice behind all this is perfect. With water: a hint of old fir wood, a touch of camphor, Corinthian raisins, and a slight soapy aspect that takes time to dissipate after dilution (but that's inconsequential), followed by lychees and dried jujubes, almost transporting one to China. Mouth (neat): It's well-rounded yet taut, with a focus on dried apricots and indeed, on liquorice, along with the ever-present maple syrup, pistachio nougat, and slightly overripe apples. It has a somewhat rustic side that I find absolutely perfect. With water: one shouldn't add too much. Otherwise, I detect lemonade, a hint of ginger tonic, elderflower liqueur... Ah, the world of molecules! Finish: long, with a resurgence of pastis, mint liqueur, absinthe... Comments: quite the peculiar creature, I can truly understand why whisky enthusiasts would have selected this. It almost has an Armagnac quality, but do control your dropper. In fact, I love it.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Good progress indeed...

Rémi Landier 'XO 50th Anniversary' (50%, OB, Fins Bois, magnums, 2023)

We've previously enjoyed some superb Rémi Landier offerings, such as their 40th Anniversary bottling a decade ago (how quickly time passes). That one was a favourite (WF 90), and official Fins Bois are somewhat of a rarity. Colour: Deep gold. Nose: this cognac has a grassier note, in the finest sense of the term 'grassy'. It's also richer, and I detect ripe olive oil, a hint of chalk, a whisper of fresh bread (almost malt whisky-like), quince jelly, which is standard, a touch of patchouli, aged Sauternes... The elegance is pronounced, slightly more subdued, but in the best possible way. With water: notes of fresh and dried mint, mint tea (ideally with pine nuts), and a hint of cane sugar emerge... Mouth (neat): it's sweeter and fruitier, almost flamboyant, yet well-balanced, with hints of 'whisky' (peat? Surely not...), foliage, tobacco, an abundance of ripe melon, dried figs, dates, honey, beeswax... And I promise not to bring up Clynelish (S.!) Liquorice allsorts. With water: mint cordial comes to the fore again. Finish: long and even sweeter. A blend of chestnut purée with icing sugar and vanilla extracts. Plus, there's a note of meringue. Comments: a splendid Fins Bois, and my praise is not simply because they've bottled it in magnums.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Regarding Fins Bois... Our thoughts go out to our friends at Grosperrin in Saintes, who have been flooded for quite some time due to the Charente river's high waters. Thankfully, it seems they've managed quite well.

Vallein Tercinier 32 yo 'Lot 90' (54.2%, Maltbarn, for Whisky AGE, Fins Bois, 142 bottles, 2023)

Cognac for Taiwan done by a well-reputed German bottler, how global is that? Colour: dark gold with coppery tones. Nose: it starts off a bit like a compote, but also quite mineral, with bursts of crushed slate followed by the expected syrupy peaches and sultanas. There's a somewhat earthy and rooty side, quite typical of certain Fins or Bons Bois, but not all of them. Also, liquorice wood, as usual. With water: dried fruits, celeriac, cranberry and a slightly overcooked aspect. Mouth (neat): a light robust and rustic side, plenty of wood and mint, more liquorice wood, apricot jam and quite a good amount of spices from the oak, especially green pepper. A leathery and autumn leaf aspect. With water: it continues on the rooty and spicy side, it tickles a bit. Finish: long, robust, on cooked fruits with spices, particularly star anise and cinnamon. Comments: one might almost want to warm it up to make a hot Christmas cognac. Heaven forbid! A cognac more for the great outdoors than for the lounge, let's say.
SGP:561 - 85 points.

André Bertendeau 51 yo 'Lot 71' (52.9%, Maltbarn, Petite Champagne, 50 bottles, 2023)

Very lovely Renoir-inspired label here and an old estate. It is said that all remaining cognacs made by the late Mr. Bertendeau have been put up for auction for the benefit of Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors Without Borders). Colour: amber. Nose: it's a compact and rather powerful old cognac, gathered around dried figs, apricot jam, raisins soaked in Cointreau, and fir honeydew. I'm very fond of this and detect no sign of fatigue; it's like an old Led Zeppelin record made in the same year. You see what I mean. With water: it unfolds considerably, revealing old books, tobacco, burlap, damp earth, old but perfect Burgundy white wine, and even more varieties of dried raisins. Mouth (neat): very fruity and jammy, it's all about the dried raisins and indeed, the triple sec. Still very compact, for the better. With water: it opens up again, towards damp earth, dried fruits, various kinds of mint, green teas, pu-ehr... Finish: Long, more on pine needles, moss, porcini mushrooms, humus... Comments: it becomes superbly forest-like at the end of the palate; just add water drop by drop, as it can be drowned in an instant and become overly woody.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

A little Borderies, if you please...

Prunier 1978/2023 (52.3%, OB, for Wine4You The Purist, Borderies, 42 bottles)

It's common to find very small batches like this one but remember that Cognac and Armagnac producers often draw from casks gradually as orders are placed, meaning that a large cask can be bottled many times. A small outturn of 42 bottles, as here, does not necessarily mean that the cask was nearly empty or that it was definitely a demijohn. No, we're not talking about octaves here. Colour: amber. Nose: a magnificent liquorice flavoured with vineyard peach and heather honey, with some basaltic notes. Splendid. With water: a hint of viognier (Château Grillet?) and dried figs. Mouth (neat): very classy, also quite compact but more on candied oranges with just a tiny bit of tar and pine resin in the background. Unbeatable. With water: it's a bit like a great white wine, a sensation I had already felt on the nose. Notes of artisanal Provençal nougat (not the kind you find at motorway service stations on the Autoroute du Soleil). Finish: good length, still compact, fruity, round but not placid at all. Comments: excellent, but once again, be careful with water. When in doubt, abstain.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Daniel Bouju Très Vieux 'Batch 3' (51.7%, C. Dully Selection for Maltopedia and Juicyful China, Grande Champagne, D74-84 + A39-49, 200 bottles, 2023)

If I read this well, it's a blend of '74 to '84 vintages, so 39 to 49 years of age. I would like to remind you that in France, the word 'champagne' isn't necessarily connected to our favourite sparkling wine, as it means 'countryside' in Old French, hence there are places called 'Champagne' in many corners of our beautiful yet tumultuous country. However, today one cannot use it indiscriminately... Colour: mahogany. Nose: it's quite lovely, very traditional, leaning more towards coffee, chocolate, and pipe tobacco than most modern cognacs. A lot of black tea, prunes, aged rancio, with a hint of burnt wood, old nuts, and even truffle aromas. Also welcome touches of camphor. With water: little change, it's just that the black tea and dark chocolate become even more prominent. Mouth (neat): it's sweeter than expected, more honeyed, with loads of jams, figs, apricots, oranges… There are also hints of molasses, aged rum, even juniper, but the wood never gets in our way. The style is very well-controlled. With water: a drop is enough to bring out the dried fruits, dates, pears, bananas, and of course raisins... Finish: long but with a peculiar freshness, on oranges. That pairs perfectly with the chocolatey side. Comments: This old cognac is perfect for Christmas, with a fruitcake. Hard to do better in this slightly 'antique' style.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Hold on tight, this is going to be a ride…

Prunier 'Lot 89' (62.1%, Swell de Spirits, Petite Champagne, 2023)

Colour: dark gold. Nose: it seems terrific, on orange and pear cakes, but let's not push our luck, we are quickly captivated by a very pretty cognac, much easier to nose at a very high degree than a malt whisky, for example... But one can still burn one's olfactory bulb just the same, if you ask me. With water: Cointreau, Sauternes, a bit of chicken broth, small muscat touches, quality mead, papaya… It's quite extravagant yet charming, nonetheless. Mouth (neat): rose water and lychees, really? Late harvest Gewurztraminer, really? With water: no, we return to oranges and orange blossom, Oriental pastries, honey, quince liqueur, bergamot… All of this is just excellent. Finish: long and soft (once reduced), very fruity, a bit exotic. Comments: I would like to try it with Thai food. And in reality, the rose water aspect never completely disappears; it even develops over time, which is quite fun.
SGP:641 - 90 points.

I think we're going to skip the armagnacs this time; we'll taste them in a few days. Because we still have quite a few cognacs that we absolutely wanted to taste this year (excuses, always excuses…)

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Le Cognac de Jean-Michel L.95' (53.5%, OB, Trésors de Famille, Grande Champagne, 395 bottles, 2023)

Quickly ranked in the top five cognac houses, I shall say no more (is that even proper English, S.?). Colour: dark amber. Nose: orange and fig cake with little bits of rustic pear (from an old priest's orchard) and a dash of cane sugar. With water: smoke! But where does that come from? Mouth (neat): it's so good! The usual markers are there (peaches, dried grapes, liquorice, sweet wine) but there are also smaller elements, distilled little berries (rowan), mountain herbs (verbena), lemon balm, gentian, and even Alpine genepy. It's very, very good and goes down almost on its own. With water: I don't really find the smoke now, but everything else is just perfect. Iberian ham, herbs, edible flowers, dried fruits, and even hints of black olives. Finish: am I dreaming, are there malty notes? Comments: sensational and dangerous. Hence, dangerously sensational.
SGP:552 - 92 points.

The problem always lies with these cognacs that roam between 50% and 55% vol. Should we also taste them with water, as we always do, at the risk of disjointing them or even flattening them, or should we perhaps set different rules than those for whisky on WF? Should we raise the limit from 50 to 55% for brandies and rums, to avoid taking any risks? We'll delve into this subject later…

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 98' (49.6%, Whic, Voyages Extraordinaires, Petite Champagne, 150 bottles)

Love Jules Verne but I cannot quite remember if any of his heroes was drinking cognac. Wilhelm Storitz? Phileas Fogg? Professeur Lindenbrock? We used to read Verne when we were kids, I suppose we should read him again. Colour: gold. Nose: It's quite delicate, starting with notes of old perfume, an ancient wardrobe, patchouli, lime blossom… But dried grapes, honeys and dried apricots immediately take over. This cognac is compact, ultra-balanced, undeniably fresh. We've practically got the score already, unless… Mouth: very ripe peaches, canned peaches, peach liqueur… Then there's dandelion honey (it's very clear, very creamy, very sweet) and maple syrup. A few drops of triple sec make the matters even easier. Finish: fairly long, leaning a bit more towards molasses and salted butter caramel, but this saltiness remains very light. A little herbaceous on the back end. Comments: as if on parade, not much to add. But wait, 1998, that makes it a 25-year-old already, doesn't it? All this is moving a bit too fast, if you ask me.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Mauxion 50 ans (54%, In2spirit, Fins Bois, 90 bottles, 2023)

'Ans' means 'years', right? I believe this is a blend of 1967 to 1973 vintages, so from the best years of rock and roll (boomer beware). In2spirit is a Belgian bottler, while we know the Belgians know their cognac (and shrimp croquettes, naturally). Colour: light amber. Nose: pure Milanese panettone, hazelnut liqueur, spread (let's not name brands, shall we?) and walnut cake. And perhaps some roasted chestnuts. With water: hints of dried meat, Parma ham… Mouth (neat): a lot of strength in this 50-year-old, definitely some old wood, herbal teas, over-steeped tea, but also candied oranges, mandarin, hints of ginger, peppermint… With water: more mandarin, a mandarin that reminds us of that well-known Belgian specialty, Mandarine Napoléon. One might ask Ridley Scott why our Belgian friends continue to associate themselves with The Little Corporal, who, after all, set Europe ablaze (for Joséphine, apparently). Finish: good length, nice freshness, and with a very pretty fruitiness. Comments: this mandarin intrigues me a bit, but it's excellent, just a tiny, tiny bit tired. Really just barely. Here's a fitting quote from Napoléon for all lovers of spirits: "One must always reserve the right to laugh the day after at one's ideas of the night before." Or something like that.
SGP:651 – 89 points.

Mauxion 'Lot 60' (62%, In2spirit, Petite Champagne, 120 bottles, 2023)

You might have noticed that the alcohol level is simply crazy for a cognac over sixty years old (assuming it spent all that time in a cask and not in a demijohn), we'll have to be very careful... Are you ready? Colour: gold. Nose: cake, varnish, bourbon, vanilla. All this is not 'normal', let's move on… With water: a bit of coconut, but it quickly gives way to honeys, autumn leaves, hints of rubber (new wellies), ointments, picture varnish, linseed oil, dried mushrooms, cigars… Mouth (neat): I feel like I have an old amontillado on my palate, just with a lot more watts. With water: now it's marvellous, with a perfect balance between the rubbery notes, oranges, camphor, figs and… old malt whisky. Finish: long, a bit burnt, malty, with chocolate and tobacco, strong honeys like green oak honeydew (coincidentally), some growing saltiness, and then just a sort of sweet-salty broth. Comments: this isn't the first 1960 Mauxion I've tasted, and they all have this 'trans', malty and resinous aspect. A whisky lover could only like it, it's true that this old cognac, while not without certain fragilities, has a very existential side (excuse me?)
SGP:661 – 91 points.

We'll go easy now, as we're about to lose 22% alcohol...

Prunier 1959 (40%, OB, Fins Bois)

Not entirely certain when this was bottled, we're enjoying it here and now. The year 1959 was heralded as the vintage of the century for all French wines, yet as a renowned distiller recently noted on Facebook (can you believe it?), "Bad years for table wines aren't necessarily bad for us (and vice versa)"... Words of gold, undoubtedly. Colour: coppery amber. Nose: unbelievable, it's like we have wine in our glass. Old Sauternes, old Meursault, old Jurançon blanc, old Graves blanc... You get the picture, all from the legendary vintage 1959, of course. Humus, damp earth, mushrooms, and aged Belgian beer add even more complexity. This isn't cognac, it's poetry, but sure enough, at 40%, the palate might just crumble a bit, let's quickly check that... Mouth: well, no, not at all, the sweet spices compensate for the lightness, but we're truly on mushrooms, undergrowth, wild herbs, moss, humus, old stump, old concrete, last year's apples, nuts from the year before... It's akin to the very old, slightly fragile malts we used to find some years ago, Bunnahabhain, Tomintoul, Macduff, especially those from Duncan Taylor / Abe Rosenberg. But I digress, forgive me. Finish: a bit short, but so delicate... Lots of herbal teas and balms, with a signature that's very, very slightly dusty, which is normal. Comments: I don't know the exact age of this precious cognac, probably around sixty years. Well, it has remained quite sprightly!
SGP:451 - 90 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Le Cognac de Paul L. 57' (42.3%, OB, Grande Champagne, Trésors de Famille, 319 bottles, 2023)

A 65-year-old cognac, 100% Ugni Blanc, from Domaine Pradier-Gaillard, which, to be honest, I had never heard of until now. But that doesn't mean anything, of course. Colour: amber with copper highlights. Nose: it's very elegant yet still fresh and vibrant, starting with a hint of sherry, then moving on to fruit wines, fig wine, a few notes of old Muscat, marc, Malvasia, some mushrooms, wafts of old wine cellar, old barrels... But there's no sign of fatigue. Mouth: a magnificent sweetness without the slightest weakness, it's even quite tense, with flavourful herbal teas (mint, linden, thyme) and still a lot of ripe peaches, quince, plums, dried grapes, figs, and dates... A little bit of liquorice, pine resin, and star anise add even more tension to this very old cognac full of vigour and response. Finish: rather long, on plum tart and cinnamon, with just a slightly herbaceous and peppery aftertaste. Comments: there's a somewhat miraculous aspect to these cognacs that are over sixty years old, but it's true that on these small estates, the casks are watched like milk on the stove.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 57 – 62' (50.6%, Swell de Spirits, That's The Spirit !, Grande Champagne, 200 bottles)

A true miracle. This bottle burst into Château WF just a month ago, and unfortunately I placed it on a piece of furniture adjacent to the table where we entertain our guests. Consequently, the level has tended to drop rather quickly, and it was by a narrow margin that we managed to save a few centilitres so that we could taste it properly. Colour: orange amber. Nose: full of hazelnuts and roasted peanuts, cakes, praline, tobacco, very light smoke, maple syrup, honey cakes, Corinthian raisins... It's really very appetizing on the nose. With water: the smoky wood aspect becomes even more pronounced, with fir and beech wood, some notes of molasses, a bit of damp earth... All quite compelling. Mouth (neat): sultanas, triple sec, mandarins, Muscat (Beaumes-de-Venise), orange blossom, a hint of burnt wood... With water: I understand our guests. It goes down too easily, it's even quite dangerous, once again. Oranges, honey, a basaltic side, flint... Finish: long, fresh, but firm. More dried raisins, orange liqueur, honey, and more spices. Cinnamon, nutmeg, grey pepper... Comments: in fact, there's not much to say, except that the spices and this very light smoke add a lot of dimension.
SGP:562 - 91 points.

Mauxion 'Lot N°45' (45.2%, La Maison du Whisky, Through the Grapevine, Bons Bois, 2023)

Imagine that this Bons Bois – Bons Bois being rare as single cask or small batch – was distilled just after the end of World War II. That was almost eighty years ago! Imagine also the joy that must have reigned in the countryside at that time... We also learn that this ancient beauty was aged in coarse-grained Limousin oak (which lies just a bit east of the Cognac region). And one cannot help but think of the great vintage of 1945, especially in Pauillac, which isn't that far from of Cognac. Colour: dark gold. Nose: we're touching on the sublime, with exotic flowers and fruits. Mango, jasmine, guava, lilac, linden, and then prairie honey and a very old sweet wine that has digested all its sugars, that's what we find in this marvel. Nothing more, nothing less. Mouth: mango, camphor, mint, Smyrna raisins and honey. Sublime. It must be said, handling the still is indeed far nobler and more valuable than firing a cannon. We will always prefer the distillers to the arms dealers, don't you agree. Finish: really long, on liquorice wood, gentian, beeswax, peppermint, bitter orange, rose jelly, then all his cinnamon that makes its presence known in the aftertaste. Comments: this little 1945 is of infinite beauty and freshness. Such freshness is very rarely found in whiskies of a similar age, but it is true that those are extremely rare.
SGP:651 - 92 points.

It's undoubtedly time to bring an end to this lively session. To think that we haven't even tasted a single Armagnac! But after a very victorious 1945, let's move on to a much darker vintage...

Maison Prunier 'Lot N° 19.14' (40.45%, La Maison du Whisky, Through the Grapevine, Borderies, 2023)

This incredible cognac aged for 82 years in a damp cellar (the best, though aren't all cellars damp these days with the flooding?), and then was stored in demi-johns in 1996 before being bottled this year. The fact that it was distilled almost 110 years ago only heightens the emotion we feel... It must be noted that at the time, we Alsatians were still Germans (since 1870). Colour: pure gold. Nose: it's like a fruit liqueur, honey, beeswax, coffee, honeysuckle, dandelion flower, lily of the valley, brown tobacco for a French soldier (poilu)... In fact, it's magical. Mouth: incredible. There are certainly some touches of black tea, a slightly tannic side, but the peach skins, sultanas, banana peel, and herbal infusions keep this very old cognac perfectly buoyant. Finish: a bit short and a bit fragile, but that's perfectly normal. All these herbal teas keep it fresh and lifted. Comments: probably distilled by women, as the men were already at war (4 million French men mobilised in 1914 alone, 8 million throughout the entire war, 70 million including all countries involved). It feels a bit presumptuous and crass to rate such a spirit, but that's "what we do".
SGP:351 - 88 points (95 emotional points).

It's truly time to bring this Christmas Eve session to a close. To be honest, I think we may have indulged a bit too much, haven't we?...

Borderies 'Lot 19.14' (42.1%, Malternatives Belgium, for Passion For Whisky, 39 bottles)

The very idea of comparing two Borderies from 1914 seems quite mad. Even the word Borderies (which means borders, frontiers) seems incredible for such a vintage. Colour: red amber, much darker than the Prunier. So it's not from the same original cask, but perhaps it was the same batch? Nose: in truth, there are many similarities, but this one is more chocolatey, with more roasted hazelnuts, pecan pie, praline, dark nougat, caramel... Yet the beeswax and tobacco quickly take centre stage, accompanied by superb, albeit expected, floral and honeyed notes. Mouth: yes, it's firmer, but it's also quite tannic and a little bitter, with bits of tobacco and drops of amaro. Lots of old rancio, plenty of black tea, cedarwood, orange peel, bitter cocoa, ground coffee... And yes, brown or grey tobacco for the troops. Finish: bitters and orange marmalade, dark beer, artichoke liqueur, all with an unexpected length. Comments: we must be fair and put history aside, which is always the hardest part when tasting very old spirits. Honestly, this 1914 is still quite extraordinary, despite the tannins.
SGP:461 - 89 points.

The discerning observer will note that quality Cognac producers don't necessarily start popping the crystal (or glass) decanters as soon as one of their spirits reaches forty years of age.

Armagnac will be for next time. In the meantime, thanks to all our friends, we truly hope that no one has really suffered from the floods of the Charente river!

Happy Holidays.

Check the index of all cognac we've tasted so far