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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 3, 2023 |
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Maybe is it time to revisit
a few Glenmorangie |
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| Very bizarre Glenmorangie campaign, 2022. Is this about climate change? |
They've repackaged most bottles in their core range some time ago, in a '1960s London' kind of style, a move that's never easy to interpret. Don't we all abide by the famous American adage that says that 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it?' There are quite a few secret 'Highlands' that are actually Glenmorangie currently in the market, not only 'Westports', but we'll focus on OBs today, if you don't mind. |
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Glenmorangie 10 yo 'The Original' (40%, OB, +/-2022) 
Fully matured in bourbon casks and currently at 29.99€ at our nearest Leclerc supermarket. Glenmorangie 10 was one of the seminal malt whiskies here, together with Glenfiddich NAS/8/12. We've even got singer Françoise Hardy who did a song mentioning Glenmorangie in the 1980s, give it a listen (https://youtu.be/Oq_u4oMlajw), it's called 'VIP'. Of course in French it's GLENmorangie and not GlenMOrangie. Colour: pale gold. Nose: very light, pretty floral (orange blossom) and then on a basket of ripe fruits, apples, bananas, mirabelles, greengages, pink gooseberries… Also vanilla extracts and whiffs of assorted jellybeans and babies, as well as some fruitier green tea, or perhaps Wulong/oolong. The very embodiment of a fresh, pleasant, fruity malt whisky. Mouth: I find it really very sweet, as if a part of the casks had been recharred/deep-charred. Some light molasses honey, some mirabelle liqueur ripe butter pears, plums… I find it clearly fruitier and less on butterscotch than earlier batches of Glenmo 10. Finish: short/medium, still fresh and fruity, but with more green tea. Green tea with milk, and some vanilla in the aftertaste. Comments: I think it 'progressed back', even if it got a little more summery than before – or am I dreaming?
SGP:541 - 81 points. |
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Glenmorangie 12 yo 'Lasanta' (43%, OB, +/-2022) 
The youngest and probably the lightest of all finishes. I only tried Lasanta once, in 2014, and wasn't totally convinced (apparently - WF 78). Well, it's supposed to be a finishing in sherry but the label just says '12 years aged in bourbon & sherry casks', which suggests it is not a finishing, no? Colour: some curious copper tones. Nose: it's a liquid plum tart, with some custard and a small glass of Cointreau on the side. Some muscovado, maple syrup, crema catalana, preserved zwetschke, a little pipe tobacco, a little sweet pink/Szechuan pepper… It is a fine nose for sure. Mouth: it's true that you do have the impression that a layer of oloroso (and walnut wine) has been added to some regular Glenmorangie, with this feeling of 'two-step' whisky that's not always very enjoyable. Even if better integration and mingling seems to happen right before you, in your glass. Quite some toffee and a mocha-spoon of Marmite. Finish: medium, pretty rich, with more walnut wine. Comments: not exactly my favourite style but there, one more point within nine years – nah, it was worth the wait.
SGP:551 – 79 points. |
Another 12, this time at 46% vol. |
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Glenmorangie 'Nectar d'Or' (46%, OB, +/-2022) 
This is still the penultimate livery, not too sure they changed it by the way. It was finished for two years in Sauternes casks which, if they were proper château casks, were all in French oak. The Nectar d'Or has long been my favourite 'entry-range' finish at Glenmorangie (say WF 85). Colour: gold. Nose: adding mirabelles to mirabelles, and apricots to apricots. What could go wrong? Lovely honey, honeysuckle, sucking white clover, some butterscotch, many herbal teas (chamomile, also rooibos), barley syrup, juicy golden sultanas… In short everything you would expect from a Sauternes finish – as long as it's not Ardbeg or any other peater. Mouth: yeah, I find it very good, sweet but not too sweet, with once more some apricots, honey, sultanas, mirabelles and all that. What's funny though is that the wine part would rather remind me of some muscat VDN, Beaumes de Venise, Lunel, even Samos, rather than of Sauternes, with more caramel and praline. Anyway, I really enjoy most of those, as long as they're well-made and not too cloying. Finish: rather long, rich, honeyed. More liquid caramel and honey. Comments: check. Feels sweeter than last time though.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
The Quinta Ruban became a 14 years old! Never tried this one, only when it was NAS. |
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Glenmorangie 14 yo 'Quinta Ruban' (46%, OB, +/-2022)
This is a Ruby Port finish. Our friends at LMDW tell us that 'Ruban' means 'Ruby' in Gaelic, good to know. I've never been a fan of the Glenmorangie 'Port Wood Finish' from around the year 2000 (around WF 75) while I found the first Quinta Rubans even less convincing (2007, WF 72) but I know that's me. I've stopped trying these back then, but after fifteen years, now's the time to have another go at the make. Colour: gold, not pink. Phew. Nose: things are tough after the Nectar d'Or, but since I wasn't expecting much, this is a good surprise, with stronger honey (heather) and notes of sweeter Tuscan tomato sauce (with some grappa inside!) A little old wood too. No monster raspberries and cassis, we're safe this time! Rather touches of soft mint. Mouth: the most winey of them all, this time with rather a lot of raspberry eau-de-vie and liqueur. Some cakey notes do save it though. A little German redcurrant and strawberry wines. Finish: medium, with a little more old wood, old barrique… Cracked pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: honestly, it became much better than its NAS inceptions. Which goes to show that age statements are better than NAS! (not too sure, S.)
SGP:661 - 78 points. |
There are several other new finishings, but we'll have them later. |
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