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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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December 9, 2023 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Old Irish once again
Let's have a few old Irish whiskeys this week if you please. These are always fun and often refreshing to try amidst many modern (or even many old style) Scottish and other malts. For once we'll start in the distant past and move forward through the decades. We are anticipating grass, metal and oily toolboxes galore… |
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Henry Thomson Old Irish Whisky (OB, Henry Thomson & Co Newry Ireland, -/+1900)
A beautiful old label, and another old brand which was 'supplied to Queen Victoria', but did she drink any of it? Probably, she liked a dram I believe. And also note 'whisky', not 'whiskey', which on the really old bottles seems to have been pretty common. Colour: pale straw. Nose: oh, this is a little unexpected, something almost peaty, a grassy, dry and slightly turfy style of peat, along with some roasted turnips, old copper coins and impressions of old, slightly dried out herbal liqueurs - which we find more commonly in older Scottish whiskies than Irish I would say. Perhaps the nose is a little tired, or oxidised? It's hard to say where some of these aromas come from, or what remains of how it would have presented originally. I rather like it, I have to say. Mouth: indeed, peat! Dry, earthy, sooty and very old school peat flavour, with a little sense of grain whisky in the background too, like old bruised green apples and their peelings, then rather a lot of camphor, vegetable stock and wet grains. In time also some old oily toolbox rags and impressions of hessian and more copper coins. Blind you might easily have said an extremely old Scottish blend from the same sort of era, the presence of peat and the slightly heavier profile all lean in that direction, rather than, say, an old pure pot still character. Finish: medium, on slightly medicinal and faded herbal notes, more wet cereals, bouillon, camphor and metal polish. Comments: very old school, and probably on the decline in terms of freshness and power, but there are some fascinating and charming old fashioned flavours in here, particularly that of the very dry and turfy peat. An old Irish blend cosplaying as a Scotch perhaps? Was this a deliberately commercial move on the part of the blenders during this era? As ever, with such antique bottles, more questions than answers.
SGP: 464 - 85 points. |
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John Jameson & Son 10 yo (OB 'Bottled by Comet Lounge Bars Ltd', -/+ 1960s)
A very cool old Irish bottle that seems like some kind of official / semi-indy version for Comet Lounge Bars. I don't know anything about them, but I have a sudden urge to go drinking in their establishments. Ideally in the 1960s if possible. Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: yup, we are in old Ireland alright! A big and immediate mix of old toolbox rags, hessian cloth, mechanical oils, metals, coins, breads and the most grassy of olive oil. A style that's rather extreme in some ways and very particular to Ireland. It's also to be wondered what parts of this belong to, or have been enhanced, by old bottle effect? You can add quite a bit of bouillon, vegetable stock, soup and dried out old bouquet garni. Mouth: getting tougher here. Presents with a highly medical side that's akin to pure old mothballs, plasters and medical tincture. That's along with this same mechanical and oily toolbox / old garage side. Also soot and shoe polish impressions, along with camphor, putty and something that gives a rather unfortunate impression of stale, sour beers and carpet - pub whiskey indeed! Finish: medium-short and getting rather grainy, lots of metal polish, plain mashed potatoes and old copper coins. Comments: fascinating whiskey that, just like the Henry Thomson, raises many more questions than it answers. Not the best technically but I'm always happy to taste such liquid artefacts. Now, some of these old Irish bottlings can be much, much better, let's not forget…
SGP: 461 - 75 points. |
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John Jameson & Sons 7 yo (43%, OB, 1960s)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: ah, this is more like it, big, greasy and fat distillate with a wealth of underripe green and even exotic fruits peeping through. Things like green banana, some mango and then some unexpected things like rapeseed oil, olive oil cake and fermenting beer. Really a funky and left-field style, but one with significant charms! Mouth: excellent arrival! Great power, sharp, grassy and peppery attack, with mineral oils, suet, vegetable stocks, white pepper and crystallised citrus fruits with more impressions of cooking oils, primarily of the rapeseed and olive varieties. There's also these more familiar impressions of copper coins, toolboxes and metal polish, but they feel well balanced by a good sense of power and the presence of these various fruits. This at 100° proof would be stellar I suspect. Finish: long, grassy, full on olive oil, lemon rind, some putty and waxes and more of these nicely punchy peppery and even watercress notes. Comments: awesome old Irish pure pot, that recalls some very old bottlings of Redbreast. Love the palate on this one, it has amazing freshness and power considering the age and ABV. I could quaff a modest flagon of this stuff, washed down with the occasional Guinness or Murphy's, naturally. Now, Whiskyfun of course suggests that you drink responsibly.
SGP: 651 - 88 points. |
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Let's get back to the future… |
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Cooley 22 yo 2001/2023 (52.6%, Radiomars, bourbon barrel, 194 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: bright and extremely fruity, all on mashed banana, overripe pears, pineapple juice and greener things like lime and then grass and crushed nettles, doing that familiar and very pleasurable cosplaying as New Zealand sauvignon blanc which I really enjoy. Also a little mango and some olive oil vibes too. Excellent and approaching fruit bomb territory. With water: a tiny note of nutmeg and a little cannabis oil, but otherwise still dominated by green fruits with slightly exotic touches too. Mouth: oily and full of citrus and yellow fruits, also a strong flavour of juicy fruit chewing gum and even bubblegum. Then evolving into muddled fruit salad juice territory. Excellent fruitiness and lovely oily mouthfeel supporting that. With water: really superb now, pure fruit bomb, extremely pleasurable and showing a natural fructose sweetness. More juicy fruit chewing gum and nettles. Finish: medium, once again on various bubblegum vibes, pineapple, lemon jelly and hints of juniper and aniseed. Comments: deadly! Works extremely well with water too I would say, especially on the palate. Perhaps just loses a single point in the finish, but we are nit picking.
SGP: 751 - 89 points. |
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Thanks to Martin, Aaron and Cicada! |
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Check the index of all Irish we've tasted so far |
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