Three Clynelish, 2010, 1996, 1990


October 12, 2023

Three Clynelish, 2010, 1996, 1990

Yes, I know, we just tasted some Clynelish, but the tasting was dedicated to Brora, so we have every excuse to do another Clynelish session today. Sadly they are becoming increasingly rare among the independents, at least those that are actually labelled "Clynelish". Many are labelled as "Secret Highlands" or things of that nature, but when it comes to less waxy eras of Clynelish, it gets a bit harder to spot them. Anyway, let's go for these authentic Clynelishes...

(Map The Distillers Company p.l.c. 1982)

Secret Sutherland 13 yo 2010/2023 (57.3%, Swell de Spirit, Wild Nature Series, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #2531, 360 bottles)

All right, all right, this one too is meant to be secret… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: this will be quick. Chalk, candlewax, sauvignon blanc, limestone and, as they say in good pizzerias, basta. With water: new wool, new jumper, green peppercorns… Mouth (neat): epitomically Clynelish, with a little heat, otherwise green pepper, wax, more chalk and Sancerre, stalk, lemons and a feeling of crushed slate. There isn't much to say really, this is just perfectly perfect. With water: it's rather grassier than others, with a little more bitterness, but that's something that I always enjoy when it's not excessive. The Sancerre was young. Finish: long, ultra-tight, with rather a lot of those green peppercorns and stalks and stems in the end. Comments: impeccable, for the lovers of this ultra-tight style, of which I'm certainly a part.
SGP:361 - 89 points.

Clynelish 32 yo 1990/2022 (45.8%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, bourbon barrel, cask #3507, 115 bottles)

Colour: light gold. Nose: a similar chalky profile, but better polished by the years and with more fruitiness and resins and herbs. Lamp oil, paraffin, shoe polish, more crushed slate, wet chalk, even a little rainwater, fresh mint leaves, then passion fruits and mangos coming through. Exactly Clynelish, with a little more oomph than sister casks that had been bottled at a lower strength. Mouth: a little tougher, bitterer, with much more resin and bitter herbs, crunched pine needles for example… Having said that lemons and grapefruits are soon to come to the rescue to add a lovely, very fresh zestiness, with even a medicinal side, some iodine, some cough syrup... Finish: medium, similar to a blade that would cut you into two equal parts (as we sometimes say). Superb citrus, and guess what, with some limoncello and green chartreuse in the aftertaste. Comments: phew, the arrival on the palate was a tad scary but it didn't last long. A true Toledo sword.
SGP:571 - 90 points.

Clynelish 26 yo 1996/2023 (52%, OB, Prima & Ultima, Pedro Ximenez and oloroso, 889 bottles)

Greatest of news, this is NOT a finishing, this wee Clynelish was fully aged in sherry-seasoned European oak. And possibly not first fill, according to the colour, which would suggest that the full Clynelishness of this famous vintage should have been preserved, let's see… Colour: gold. Nose: these funny fermentary, almost yeasty notes are imparting a feeling of ale right away, while thing are then moving towards IPA (must be triple IPA these days, no?), then towards an oloroso-y side indeed, then towards full Clynelishness. Well a few walnuts are still there, but the expected beeswax and ripe apples are at the helm now. The sherried 1996s are not my favourite expressions but this one remains 'moderate' and balanced. With water: some wonderful wool, chalk, linseed oil, compost, weissbeer this time… Mouth (neat): the sherry's having the upper hand on the palate. Walnut wine, artichoke liqueur (in France they say no one's eating artichokes anymore, that's a shame!), bitter, Cynar, eggplant… Rather a lot of the driest, earthiest, most leathery sherry indeed. With water: water makes wonders, it's now geared towards dry herbal cordials, nocino (green walnuts), a small cup of kombucha tea, some salinity, bouillons… Finish: same, with a good length. Great salty bouillon, with some coriander and mushrooms. Comments: I always find that very distinct malts and sherry can either completely clash or sometimes create wonders. Here, it really didn't go too badly, to say the least.
SGP:462 - 88 points.

(Thanks, Sebastian)

Check the index of all Clynelish we've tasted so far