Highland Park 1968 'The Dragon' (49.2%, Robertson's Of Kirkwall, 1990s)
Colour: deep reddish amber. Nose: sherry dominant, which is perfectly fine when the sherry is this sublime. All these very typical and beautiful old school characteristics all at once such as umami seasonings, black olive tapenade, walnut wine, cedar wood and cigar humidors along with many other tobacco impressions, salted dark chocolate and a wonderfully thick and damp earthiness. Delicate herbal peat and phenolics in the background. Mouth: big and stunningly salty. Full of salted liquorice, soy sauce, many more umami notes, resinous hardwoods, green walnut liqueur and tiny gamey and meaty touches too. A single, beautiful and rather emphatic whole. Finish: long, getting rather tarry and peppery now, some dried red berry fruits, more salty things including dark chocolate and liquorice again. Perhaps some treacle too. Stunning leathery, salty and earthy aftertaste! Comments: everything was as expected here. Not sure how clearly the Highland Park character comes through, but the sherry cask was exquisite and the power lies in the cumulative immensity of the whole whisky.
SGP: 563 - 93 points.