Yet another trip across Europe


August 10, 2023

Yet another trip across Europe

We could do this every week. In our book and for now, 'the world' means the world minus Scotland, Japan, Ireland and the USA. But don't we feel a lot of change is around the corner?

As usual, let's start this from France...

In Fréland in the heart of Alsace's Welche country.
(Musée du Pays Welche)

Welche's Whisky 2017/2022 'Small Batch #4' (46.6%, OB, G. Miclo, France, Burgundy casks, 1971 bottles)

We're in the Welche part of Alsace, meaning those small valleys where old French rather than our usual German dialect was the original language. I am myself, by the way, of Welche descent. This very Welche whisky was distilled from malt peated to 35ppm (rings a bell, doesn't it) and matured in five ex-red Gevrey-Chambertin casks (called pieces). Pinot noir and peat, let's see… Colour: apricot/ripe mirabelle. Nose: typical red pinot noir, indeed smoked. Pinot noir can be 'dirty' (think old floorcloth and what's called 'civet cat' and 'hare belly') but that is meant to be an asset. Some also used to use 'Russian leather' but that very descriptor went out of fashion, for unknown reasons. Right. In truth this one's dirty indeed, with some gas and truffle, hardboiled eggs, stewed bok choy, venison… while it would then make a U-turn and display homemade red berry jams, especially strawberries. The expected blackcurrant jelly too, plus some fattish buttercream, and then tomato leaves and a few geranium flowers. After all, we're in Alsace. Mouth: It was not necessary to be so afraid; this baby is quite civilised, albeit a little rustic. You can find red fruits, jams, blackcurrant, tobacco, Szechuan pepper, and a smoke that seems to have been somewhat overshadowed by the Burgundy. Some juniper berries. Finish: rather long, while we got used to the unlikely combo. I think I'll try to smoke some cherry jam. Comments: perhaps a little avant-garde, which is not that common in the old Welche country, but it really grows on you. See, we did not use 'Russian leather'. A malt whisky unlike any other (so not that easy to score).
SGP:654 - 85 points.

Perhaps to Belgium…

Gouden Carolus (46%, OB, Belgium, +/-2023)

This is a proper brewery's malt whisky. It was first matured in bourbon then finished in 'Het Anker cask', which is a beer from Malines. I know nothing about beer but apparently, Het Anker are making Gouden Carolus (I'm the new Einstein!) Colour: gold. Nose: I've distilled quite some beers myself and always came with something as fruity as this, full of peach and melon syrup. I mean, shock-full of peach and melon syrup. A little custard too, and vanilla yoghurt. I have to say I like this, but I also know what may happen on the palate… Mouth: well, not, it's not exactly thin, it's just incredibly fruity at first (same, preserved peaches, melons, plums) and then a tad woody, with some tannicity. Finish: not too long, pretty oaky, but very okay. Comments: typical 'beer whisky', even if I doubt they would have used any hopped mash. I'm absolutely not against these. My Alsatian compatriots sometimes distil beer and sell it as white eau-de-vie, and sometimes also just hops. I have to say I like this sweet little, uncomplicated Gouden Carolus rather better.
SGP:730 - 81 points.

Just a little bit up north please…

Millstone 26 yo 1996 (42.4%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, Netherlands, oloroso sherry, cask #4152, 233 bottles)

I suppose this will be as thick as a Donald joke, but don't we all know that Millstone plus thickness just works? And that the thicker, the better? And that not many makes can take it to these extremes? Colour: amber coffee, or something like that. Nose: I'm immediately reminded of some of those very good Spanish Liber whiskies. Very heavy metallic, raisiny and gamey sherry, moving towards very old PX (I'm thinking ultra-old Malaga solera), with loads of prunes, fermented plums sauce, homemade gravy from that old cast iron pan, Bovril and corned-beef. And really loads of raisins. Mouth: beautiful weirdness. Parsley and garlic sauce, raisins, fermenting honey, brown sauce, pancake sauce, prunes in armagnac (à votre santé), rancio… Plus 'of course', some brandy de Jerez and these old 'cream' sherries. Finish: medium, same. Walnut liqueur and tobacco. Touch of wine vinegar in the aftertaste (de Jerez!) and beef soup. Comments: forgot to say that it was also very balsamic. Very fond of these wee bulldozers…
SGP:562 - 89 points.

Aber falls 3 yo 2020/2023 (52.21%, Kintra, Wales, virgin oak, cask #1165, 135 bottles)

Don't they have a GI in Wales now? Does that mean that the whiskies do share many common traits? Do they have a tasting committee? Now I did like Aber Falls' official 'Inaugural Release' (WF 82). The 'Autumn 2021' was a tad less entrancing in my book (WF 79). Colour: full gold. Nose: instant plywood, balsa, bergamots and sweet spices, very modern, oak-driven but rather with class. Rye bread, spelt... Hope water won't kill it. With water: oh good fun, with some turmeric and citrusy hops, wheat bran... Mouth (neat): bananas, vanilla, lemongrass, spicy bread, some sawdust, a little rye once more, bits of dried papaya. With water: I don't quite know how they toast/char their virgin oak, but once again bananas, papayas and some lighter maple syrup are running the show. Water does not flatten it too much (which happens with heavy-oaked young whiskies). Finish: what's more, I'm not finding any pineapples. Comments: modern, very good and not 'that young'. I doubt the fine folks at Kintra would have selected it otherwise.
SGP:641 - 84 points.

A last one, from Germany. Good, we won't have thrown too much virtual CO2 into the atmosphere today…

Heartgow 'Unique Collection Jul 2022' (59.3%, OB, Hercynian Distilling Co., Germany, first fill sherry cask, 555 bottles)

I believe you would have also found this make under the names 'Elsburn' or, earlier I think, 'Glen Els'. It seems that they would have used both peat-smoked malt and wood-smoked malt. Colour: copper gold. Nose: praline, pinewood, roasted chestnut, burnt caramel, toffee, Xmas cake, old cough syrup, sauna oils, more pine extracts, concrete, basalt... Things seem to be happening in there… With water: basalt springs out, a box of struck matches as well, fireplace, old stove, leek soup, bean and smoked bacon soup... Mouth (neat): very loud, with some gunpowder, bitter marmalade, tons of herbs and raisins, cured ham, concentrated corn syrup and molasses, wedderburn rum… A little extreme, perhaps, but the almost 60% vol. are playing their part in this fight. With water: barbecued raisins and heavy toffee. Finish: extremely long, with much more smoke now. Some salty, soupy smoke I would say. Very peppery aftertaste, with much raw cocoa too. Comments: this is rather the Fight Club. I hate to write this but it is not whisky for everyone.
SGP:574 - 87 points.

Next time, a Millstone vs. Heartgow fight. I mean, a tasting session. Perhaps…

(Thank you Andy/whiskyprism)