A Few Tomintouls


November 25, 2024

A Few Tomintouls

Tomintoul used to be known as "the gentle dram," but it must be said that lately, there have been some rather potent ones. And a few that are quite heavily influenced by wine – but that’s a trend affecting many distilleries these days. Indeed, we’re laying it on a bit thick…

Tomintoul 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)

We last sampled this amiable 10-year-old back in 2018, and it performed rather decently (WF 78). Colour: straw. Nose: a gentle fruity profile, leaning heavily on apples and pears at first, then segueing into a more floral character with a touch of sweet barley. It feels as though it’s become a tad simpler, yet somehow more enjoyable, balanced, and, well… kind. That lovely ex-bourbon softness shines through. It does the job, and frankly, the world could use a bit more kindness these days. Mouth: light on the palate, offering notes of cornflakes alongside apple, a whisper of liquorice, and a faint hint of lurking lavender. Finish: short, with a mild honeyed touch and a faintly bitter edge towards the end—but isn’t that the fate of many young, entry-level Speysiders? Comments: perhaps a slight improvement since the last outing. There’s even a faint resemblance to Glenmorangie 10 (recently replaced by a 12).
SGP:441 - 79 points.

Tomintoul 12 yo 2011/2023 (40%, OB, oloroso sherry cask finish, 14,400 bottles)

The modest ABV suggests restrained ambitions here. Colour: gold. Nose: a touch of an old toolbox at first, followed by the expected walnuts and a hint of Barbour grease. Then, much like in the 10-year-old, those familiar apples and pears make a reappearance. It’s a lovely nose, well-constructed and inviting. Mouth: a pleasant opening with citrus joining the aromas already noted, but the low strength causes it to lose momentum, introducing more bitter and herbal notes. Think English breakfast tea—sans the cloud of milk—and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. One can’t help but feel this would sing better at 43%, though that refrain does grow a bit tiresome, does it not. Finish: fairly short, with tea and citrus peels, perhaps Earl Grey. Thankfully, it’s less bitter than feared, with a delightful hint of marmalade in the aftertaste lifting it nicely. Comments: thoroughly enjoyable.
SGP:341 - 80 points.

Tomintoul ‘Pinot Noir Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, +/-2023)

Holy Suzy, a Pinot Noir finish and NAS—brace yourselves! Colour: white wine. Nose: the palest Pinot Noir whisky I’ve ever encountered. Perhaps they used Pinot Noir grapes with minimal maceration, pressed quickly with almost no skin contact, producing something more akin to a white wine, much like a Champagne blanc de noirs. Thankfully, there’s no trace of stems, blackcurrants, cherries, or raspberries here. Instead, we’re greeted with vanilla, ripe plums, raisin pastries, and juicy mirabelles. Quite pleasant, really. Mouth: uh-oh, here comes the Pinot Noir influence. Grape seeds, skins, stems, green tea, and ginger make themselves known. Finish: much the same—green pepper and a touch of tannic bitterness. Comments: the palate feels worlds apart from the rather charming nose.
SGP:351 - 75 points.

Let's move on to independents and be aware that they have an advantage due to their much higher bottling strength – in general.

Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.1%, Dràm Mor, first fill PX hogshead finish, cask #900142, 218 bottles)

Colour: Gold. Nose: a finely controlled finishing, as is often (if not always) the case with Dràm Mor. Pecan pie with a touch of earthiness and tobacco, alongside a hint of plums that might not have fully ripened. Rather charming, really. With water: and here come the sultanas, loud and clear. Mouth (neat): much gentler on the palate, almost syrupy, reminiscent of a high-putts Tokaji. Nothing to do with golf, of course. Apricot and orange jam sprinkled with a delicate pinch of ras-el-hanout spice. With water: excellent, with a lovely addition of pepper to this distinctly Moroccan-inspired mix. Finish: long and smooth, mercifully free from the bitterness that so often lingers in PX-boosted malts. They must have some secret trick. Comments: a rather splendid success—here’s a young Tomintoul that truly speaks.
SGP:641 - 86 points.

The same elements, the same manoeuvre, the same battle…

Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.4%, Alistair Walker Infrequent Flyers, for Taiwan, PX hogshead, cask #804809, 340 bottles)

Colour: dark amber. Nose: ah, here we go—this one’s decidedly chocolatey, leaning towards Mars bars, with an abundance of raisins and a lovely touch of pipe tobacco. There’s a whisper of menthol and a faint streak of turpentine in the background, which keeps things interesting. It then turns charmingly Scottish, with creamy butterscotch and a proper slice of millionaire’s shortbread. A classic profile, free of missteps. With water: little change, and that’s hardly an issue here—this is perfectly composed for a young Speysider with a PX finish. There’s even a sweet little dunnage-like note that’s quite endearing. Mouth (neat): a closer sibling to the other 2010, it’s spicy and jammy, with an ample dollop of demerara sugar and maple syrup drizzled over plump Corinthian raisins. Again, not a false note in sight. With water: spot-on for the style, bringing out chocolate and freshly ground coffee. Finish: long and a touch drier than the other 2010, but every bit its equal. Comments: splitting hairs would be required to claim one was better than the other—both are superb examples.
SGP:651 - 86 points.

One last one, that will make it 3 OB and 3 IB. Neat and tidy.

Tomintoul 17 yo 2006/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask 25th Anniversary, refill butt, 222 bottles)

To celebrate 25 years of this iconic series, the current owners have brought out a range of malts dressed in the original packaging—what we might call a ‘replica’ bottle. I can’t help but think that whisky enthusiasts or our successors here at WF (will we have any?) in 30 or 40 years might find these somewhat confusing to catalogue. But enough musings; let’s taste this Tomintoul, with more Speysiders from this series (Glen Grant, Benrinnes, etc.) to follow in the coming weeks. Colour: gold. Nose: the glory of refill casks, brought into sharp focus by contrast with the PX finishes we’ve just sampled. Barley sacks, fresh croissants, farmhouse cider, a small glass of Meursault, a few drops of manzanilla, walnut wine, and fresh hay… Simply perfect. Quite the surprise, I must say. With water: waxy notes and a touch of robustness. Still gentle yet structured. Mouth (neat): walnut and orange wine, mild ale, artisanal cider, ripe apples, fir honey, a hint of pine sap, and a drop of lemon juice… Again, just perfect. With water: still perfect. Finish: long and almost refreshing, with apple and citrus juice, and a touch of dry, elegant sherry in the aftertaste. Comments: it feels as though this cask was selected with great care—not that this wouldn’t usually be the case, but it’s especially evident here. Fantastic and even a bit surprising. T.o.m.i.n.t.o.u.l.!
SGP:551 – 90 points.

Check the index of all Tomintoul we've tasted so far