A Grande Champagne 19 10 and Twelve Aperitifs


March 3, 2024

A Grande Champagne 19.10
and Twelve Aperitifs

Vendanges

Harvest float at the Fête des Reines in Cognac, 1910 (Geneanet)

I believe it's the first time we're having cognac this year; now indeed this is only the beginning of the year. Let's see what we've gathered, starting with easy apéritifs…

Camus 'VSOP Elegance' (40%, OB, +/-2021)

We've tried various inceptions of this expression before, bearing other labels, but it's the first time I'm noticing the scary wording 'Delicate Oak Finish' on the label. Is that related to light toasting a.k.a. chauffe Française? (French toasting). These VSOPs by Camus usually gather good scores at WF (around WF 82). Colour: deep gold/amber. Nose: nicely vinous at first, with touches of Sauternes and chardonnay, moving towards the usual preserved peaches and juicy sultanas. Whiffs of liquorice and violets, then triple-sec. It is fragrant and fresh, pretty appealing. Mouth: a tad caramelly, a little oaky, with rather a lot of roasted sesame and pine nuts plus cocoa powder. Less fruity/easy than expected even if nicer touches of mandarin liqueur do manage to come though eventually. Finish: rather short and dry. The oak feels, not too sure that's that famous 'chauffe française'. Ground coffee in the aftertaste. Comments: still very good but this time again, a lower strength such as 40% doesn't quite stand a heavier woodiness, same with malt whisky. Earlier expressions had been more to my liking.
SGP:451 - 79 points.

ABK6 'VSOP' (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)

This ABK6/Abécassis cognac does stem from their very own and very vast vineyards in Grande Champagne, more than 160 hectares all planted with ugni blanc – a.k.a. trebbiano blanco if you like. Colour: gold. Nose: whiffs of copper and cherry stem tea at first, a combo that I always find most pleasant, then berries, blueberries, sorb, ripe gooseberries, then a little tobacco and a hint of balsamico and mustard, beyond the expected raisins. A rather singular nose – always like to find copper in any spirits (coins, pans, kettles, wire…) Mouth: sweeter and more rounded but with a thinnish mouthfeel because of the light strength. I think the BNIC should make 43%% the mandatory minimum strength, if that's within their powers. Now you'll find some very nice touches of tarte tatin and caramelized hazelnut brittle (feuilleté), plus more black tea than usual. Pleasant notes of orange blossom water, some cinnamon and a little ginger. Finish: a little short, a little drying. More black tea. Comments: I always have the impression that the lower the bottling strength, the more pronounced the woody notes are, especially when there is a lot of oak initially. This is less the case with much less marked spirits, or with clear ones. In any case, for me, spirits with a heavy oak influence should be bottled at at least 43%, if not 46% abv. But that's just a personal opinion, of course...
SGP:531 - 81 points.

Tiffon 1995/2023 'Le Vigilant' (40.86%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 480 bottles)

We've already tried some superb Tiffon/Braastad (same house) in the past, so we have very little doubt here and now… Colour: full gold. Nose: insane and very complex fruits. Crazy lichees and peaches in syrup a first, then gentler oranges and grapefruits, morello cherries, apricots, all coated with maple syrup and manuka honey. Sound about right, right? In the end you would believe you were nosing some old Sauternes from a great château (I'd swear it was Sigalas) or even a crazy old sweet Jurançon. Why not the much missed Joliette! Mouth: a little mocha and chocolate running the show for a few seconds, then the same fruity sequence that we had found on the nose, word for word, up to that manuka honey and these old sweet wines. You may just add a few notes of quince jelly, and maybe mirabelle jam, and maybe crème brûlée. Finish: the coffee is back, together with some fruity ganache. High-end cappuccino – should that exist – in the aftertaste. Not a single ounce of bitterness or oak or boisé or whatever. Comments: it's the cognac that controls everything; the taster has absolutely nothing to do. I love the little hint of coffee in the finish. 'Stupid' quality/price ratio, beats all whiskies in that respect (125€).
SGP:541 - 91 points.

ABK6 16 yo 'Batch N°1' (43.2%, OB, Aged Collection, +/-2023)

Form 2 casks and bottled at a proper strength this time, if I may. It seems that this is a blend of petite champagne and fins bois, so probably not own-estate. Colour: full gold. Nose: it's a little tough after the flabbergasting Tiffon but this time some mentholated touches and whiffs of freshly mown lawn are adding another dimension to this otherwise rather discreet and shyish cognac. Very, very delicate. Mouth: a little more oomph on the palate, some nice tropical fruits, raisins, triple-sec and honeys, figs, a little cinnamon, green tea… It all whispers a little bit but it's really nice and pleasant. Finish: medium, a little sweeter, a tad more liqueury. Allspice and a little oak in the aftertaste. Comments: quite excellent. Perhaps not enough to sway the whisky enthusiasts from their Macallan or Lagavulin, but it does its job as a fine aged cognac rather perfectly. No frustration related to low ABVs this time.
SGP:551 - 83 points.

Fins Bois 1989 'Lot N° 865' (48.4%, Jean Grosperrin, 364 litres, +/-2024)

This one from a small property in Brie-sous-Matha, a very small village near Saint-Jean-d'Angély. Colour: full gold. Nose: very pretty, with notes of toasted bread, sap, pine, hints of wood glue, then very ripe apples, the eternal peaches, fig leaves, almonds, marzipan... There's a rustic quality that I find very alluring, it's somewhat the opposite of the 16-year-old we've just tasted. Mouth: there's a nice tension, a very slight 'Calvados' or simply old apple side to it, pine sap again, a few hints of olive oil, saffron, white peaches... I get the impression that it is very 'fins bois', even though I am far from being able to identify the crus as the professionals would (including Mr. Grosperrin, of course). Finish: herbaceous notes of the finest kind, some amusing hints of a fino or a manzanilla, a bit of mustard and curry, followed by a return to the white peach. Honey too, and even a malty touch mind you. Comments: a particular style, very appealing, both rustic and delicate. I adore this little creature from the depths of the countryside.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Jean Fillioux 'Lot 92' (46%, Through The Grapevine, exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, Grande Champagne, 2023)

Only good names involved here. Colour: amber. Nose: a very precise style, characterised by maple syrup and currants at the start, followed by black nougat and Grenache from the Rhône valley, with a jammy and even stewed aspect. This kind of heavyish profile works very well on the nose; it might be more challenging on the palate, but we're not saying we shall obligatorily find it there... Mouth: Indeed a bit rich but not heavy-handed; on the contrary, there are very lovely notes of mango and blood oranges, beyond the dried figs, dried apricots, and kumquats. Still, perhaps a touch of Grenache, let's say Rayas, (just for a laugh). Finish: quite long, more chocolatey, with lots of prunes and, frankly, a bit of an Armagnac edge. Maybe not... Comments: a different style, perhaps more jammy but no less excellent.
SGP:641 - 87 points.

Laurichesse 'Le Fût de Mon Père' (47.6%, OB for Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, cask #212, 165 bottles, 2023)

Apparently, this one was distilled in the mid-1970s but records seem to be a little imprecise (or missing, ha). Having said, that, we've tried two other 1975 Laurichesse by MB, both dazzling, so it's not impossible that this would stem from the same lot. Pure speculations… Colour: amber. Nose: broad, featuring homemade coffee liqueur, toasted brioche, mocha, black nougat, blackberry jam, tomato jam… To be honest, I find this absolutely perfect. I also adore the hints of pine needles; it's superb. Mouth: impressive. Pine and fir notes might be considered flaws in some cases, but here they add an additional freshness, which could be described as forest-like. Fir honey, liquorice, coffee, bitter oranges, tobacco, currants… Finish: the finish is slightly less convincing due to the pine notes that have become somewhat predominant, but it remains absolutely excellent. Peach jam and chocolate in the aftertaste. Comments: we'll say, 'almost 91'.
SGP:571 - 90 points.

Lhéraud 'Lot 78/23' (52.2%, Le Gus't, Petite Champagne, cask #126, 184 bottles, 2023)

Pure ugni blanc from Lhéraud. I remember we've tried an excellent 1967 from Grape of the Art last year (WF 90). Colour: full gold. Nose: another one that's completely different, this time we're much closer to malt whisky, as this is full of butterscotch, varnish, pecan pie, toffee, very old balsamic vinegar… Sorcery? With water: no, water unleashes the raisins, fruit stems, sweet wine, liquorice, moss, mushrooms… Mouth (neat): back to Cognac for good, with sultanas, peach syrup, fondant, even Pineau des Charentes, orange liqueur, raisins… With water: good one, the maltiness is back, with more butterscotch, sweet ale, fudge, ripe mangos, vanilla, honey, chicory coffee… Finish: long and much more tropical, honeyed, toasted, cake-y… Caramel cream and macchiato in the aftertaste. Comments: this baby plays hide-and-seek with you. Level is extremely high, you'd almost believe its high-class Macallan at time. I'm serious!.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Mauxion Sélection 1967/2023 (52.3%, OB for Germany, Bons Bois)

Colour: rich amber. Nose: there might be a bit too much wood at present, with an air of a furniture shop, wood glue, carpenter's workshop… Varnish, chocolate, pepper, toffee, pinecones… Water should mix things up a bit. With water: more on ferns, damp earth, mushrooms, thuja wood, spruce… Mouth (neat): the old wood is very present but it works well with stewed fruits such as peaches and pears. A lot of bitter chocolate, then pine resin and two or three bits of brown tobacco that give a little pinch to the tongue. With water: we remain in the same territories, mentholated and resinous. Finish: very long, spicy, mentholated, woody, resinous. Peaches come to the rescue in the aftertaste. Comments: a very old, deeply infused cognac, earthy, marked by wood but in a very lovely way. For connoisseurs and amateurs of this style, it's somewhat like an old cognac from an antique dealer. Except that it cannot be restored, one must love it for what it is, with its charming flaws.
SGP:371 - 86 points.

Vallein Tercinier 'Héritage N.62' (45.2%, Cognac Sponge, Grande Champagne)

Colour: dark amber. Nose: there's pine resin and there are After Eights, but it's globally lighter than the Mauxion, more on chartreuse, verbena and gentian, with amaretti, almond liqueur, a hint of Parma ham, a few sultanas from an old forgotten twentieth-century packet, ferns, roots… Also, some pretty notes of black radish. Mouth: this time again, the tannins of the wood express themselves first, then give way to menthol and pine bud liqueur, to paraffin, to very green olive oil, to bitter almonds, to green walnut liqueur… Finish: grapefruit brings freshness but the overall theme stays on pine resin, with green tannins. Peach skin and apricots in the aftertaste. Comments: at the pinnacle of this style, heavily marked by the casks. These old cognacs remind me of the Rolling Stones' last concerts; not quite the golden years anymore, but we forgive them everything, they are great. This cognac is great.
SGP:471 - 87 points.

There is also a new young Sponge Grande Champagne Heritage No. 10 – No. 11 which is quite superb, alas it arrived too late to take part in this session. We will have it next time.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 57-62' (49.9%, Ws Spirits Collection, Grande Champagne, Germany, 2023)

A blend of all vintages from 1957 up to 1962, so pretty much a rock and roll cognac. Colour: amber. Nose: dried mushrooms and various oils, I would say, plus beeswax and pollen. Encaustic, much dried raisins, lanoline, potting soil, kefir and kombucha, carrots, white nougat, pack of toffee… It's a rather grand nose. Mouth: you'd almost believe it's needing water, it's a punchy baby despite its old age. I told you, it's rock and roll. So, with water: wonderful earthiness, chestnuts, pine nuts, walnuts, tangerines, dried tangerine skin (chen-pi), bergamots, honeys… Finish: medium, rather on orange liqueur and maple syrup. No old oak, no pine resins, just more pepper and clove in the aftertaste. Comments: indeed, you never quite know whether these old cognacs have been demijohnned (or paradised) at some point or not. This one has stayed as fresh as a daisy, or nearly so.
SGP: - 89 points.

Vallein Tercinier 'Lot n° 65' (54.4%, OB, for Wealth Solutions, 2015)

Here is a review of a Lot 65 that I had yet to taste, believe it or not. The first 1965 VT I tasted, quite some years ago, made me realise that cognac could be better than the best of the best malt whiskies. Quite the statement. Colour: golden amber. Nose: but yes, I remember. Sauteed ceps with Noilly Prat sauce, quality mead (of which there is not much), pistachio nougat, apricots roasted with vanilla and deglazed in Sauternes, and many other things. It's a spirit for the Greek or Roman gods; after all, they are the same, aren't they? With water: resins come to the fore, mastic, marzipan, oil paint, and more simply, apple. Mouth (neat): I do not think I have ever tasted a cognac I preferred. An incredible blend of chestnut honey, mango, exquisite chocolate, and no less precious tobacco. Ready… 1, 2, 3, and we bow! With water: once again, the resins are prominent but never overpowering, even if there is a hint of chlorophyll, bitter almonds, various peppers, a few touches of rubber... But fresh oranges are on patrol and put everything back on the right track, it remains a fruity old cognac. Finish: long, focused, with citrus, nutmeg, and honey. Comments: by Zeus! Even on a palate slightly fatigued by a good number of cognacs already tasted today (but that's a piece of cake when the quality is there), this 1965 remains radiant. For the good of the planet, we should make all the dictators of the world drink it.
SGP:661 - 94 points.

Come on, one last one, a pacifist cognac...

Famille Cabanne 'Lot 19.10' (44.9%, The Whisky Jury, Grande Champagne, cask #7, 109 bottles, 2023)

Friends, here is a 1910 straight from the cask, hence a cognac of at least 112 years of age. Frankly, and I promise I'm going to calm down, I'm ashamed to know that for the price of this distilled splendour made before the first World War (€850), you can only buy two or three bottles of a Speyside NAS whose story would make even the most depressed Belarusian art student or an old French actress who's no longer offered roles, laugh out loud. Meh. Colour: mahogany with coppery highlights. Nose: we are plunged into another dimension, space-time has become elastic, we can almost hear the clatter of arms, and we smell cordite, mud, then peony, blood oranges, sour cherries, pinot noir, morels and horns of plenty, wood, old ham hung in the attic, truffle and foie gras sauce, tomato... It's a truly transcendental experience. Mouth: enough to make you believe in miracles. It's even a bit brutal, rough, perhaps a bit too young, to be honest. And I'm not even joking. As for the flavours and molecules, after noting a commendable fullness and an absence of fatigue, I would list the following, in no particular order: milk chocolate, dark chocolate, Cuban tobacco, aubergine and artichoke, raspberry and blackcurrant liqueur, old Burgundy from the Côte de Nuits, Italian coffee, ground black pepper, cardamom, real truffle oil (not the chemical stuff), medlar and tamarind, hints of tar liqueur and salty liquorice, ashes, dried beef... have we already mentioned that old pinot noir from Burgundy? Finish: good length, full of flavours, not all easy to describe. All of this has gone on for far too long anyway. Comments: the real miracle is that one of the oldest spirits in the world, perhaps even the oldest if we really only consider the time spent in wood, which is the only valid way (listen up, novice online merchants), I was saying that the true miracle is that one of the oldest spirits in the world is also one of the best. That is, at least, my opinion. Incredible job by the Whisky Jury, top-of-the-world, they could almost become annoying, those guys. Of course not.
SGP:662 - 94 points.

I just fear that these last two cognacs might already have been the best we'll have tasted in 2024. And perhaps even in 2025, 2026, 2027… Well, we shall see. Stay tuned, see you soon.

Check the index of all cognacs we've tasted so far