A new little whisky world tour


November 27, 2024

	A new little whisky world tour
	It’s become a bit of a cliché to say that there are more and more whiskies from the 'rest of the world', coming from genuine whisky distilleries but also, more commonly, from distillers who now make whisky in addition to their usual production (gin, eaux-de-vie, cognac, slivovitz, vodka, rum, shochu—you name it).

Not to mention the distilleries that don’t actually distil anything themselves. You need to visit their websites and check if you see any stills (and not just barrels), apart from that little 75-litre Portuguese one set up in the entrance, unconnected to anything and gleaming like a new penny. Yes, that does exist.

Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (52.3%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+orange triangle, 216 bottles)

The last tasting of #B16D24+red square left quite an impression (WF 90). This organic whisky is matured in vin jaune casks—no mere finishing here— vin jaune being kind of akin to fino sherry, though that comparison is admittedly loose and might warrant an apology to our Jura friends. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fresh bread, crushed mustard seeds, green walnuts, damp earth, bergamots, newly sprouted cress seeds, sourdough, and hints of dried apricots. It’s like a mountain dweller’s fruit basket. With water: soft tarry notes and mild curry peep through. Mouth (neat): gentler than anticipated, but the rush of peppery cress, mustard, and raisin bread is delightful. With water: cardamom, cooked radish, and beetroot join the fray. Finish: long, with a stronger peppery kick. I must detail the types of pepper more precisely, as there’s such diversity! Comments: I adored the earlier 44% version, and while this isn’t necessarily ‘better’, it stands equal in quality. In any case, it’s exceptional (and we’re in the mountains).
SGP:552 – 90 points.

B&L (46%, Bottles & Legends, Blended Malt Belgian Whisky, Batch 1, new oak & sherry, 125 bottles)

Featuring a charming little cherry-red 356 on the label, this marks the first fully Belgian blended malt—congratulations! Colour: white wine. Nose: juniper and fennel swirl about, joined by a touch of gentian and a hint of Williams pear. A whiff of pine sap brings a fresh and somewhat spirited character, making for an unusual yet captivating profile. Mouth: bright with lemon and anise, underpinned by juniper, then a delicate touch of crème de cassis from Dijon and some raspberries. Thankfully, it avoids that ubiquitous ‘cheap red’ profile found in many others these days. A true success, I’d say. Finish: rather long, staying true to the notes of gentian, blackcurrant, and juniper, with a dash of lemon and returning coriander seeds adding a fresh lift. Comments: as some might have anticipated, I believe this whisky, slightly chilled, would pair superbly with Belgian shrimp croquettes. I challenge anyone to prove otherwise.
SGP:561 – 85 points.

Cormeil ‘Small Batch #1’ (42.7%, Distillerie H. Leblanc, France, finished in calvados cask, 2024)

Produced by Normandy’s noted calvados makers, Busnel. The writer Henri Monnier once remarked, “How foresighted nature is! It makes apples grow in Normandy, knowing that the natives of this region drink nothing but cider.” He might well have included calvados in that observation. Colour: light gold. Nose: quite pleasant, reminiscent of many other contemporary French whiskies—nicely crafted, rounded, with a gentle wood influence. There’s vanilla and apples, and for once, the apples are authentically present, with a touch of cinnamon as well. Mouth: enjoyable, showcasing apple juice, barley syrup, a hint of rhubarb, and slightly green tannins smoothed out by a drizzle of honey. It’s evidently very young. Finish: medium in length, fresh and soft, evoking memories of that apple ice wine made in Canada. With climate change, one wonders if Normandy could ever produce such a thing. Comments: youthful and approachable with no real flaws.
SGP:431 – 80 points.

High Coast 'Mountains 02 - Borgberget' (51%, OB, Sweden, Moscatel casks, 2024)

This series spotlights Sweden’s iconic mountains, here showcasing ‘Borgberget’. An unpeated expression, it stands out with its intriguing Moscatel cask finish—a nod to the Swedes' far-reaching historical journeys. Fun fact: the town of Colmar here in Alsace once fell under Swedish control, captured by Gustaf Horn and his forces in 1632. Colour: gold. Nose: the Moscatel influence remains restrained, presenting a whisky that leans dry with a touch of oak. There are hints of scones, pancakes, maple syrup, and slightly under-ripe bananas. With water: it blossoms with added depth, revealing a nice burst of juicy, ripe apples while the Moscatel remains agreeably understated—thankfully so. Mouth (neat): a livelier palate, richer and more liqueur-like with notes of muscat and guava, complemented by celery and pink pepper. With water: even better, unfolding sultanas and those charming ripe apples. Finish: of medium length, featuring raisins and dried apricots. Comments: initial caution gave way to relief, as water proved a great enhancer. For a Moscatel-finished dram, it’s rather charming.
SGP:641 - 83 points.

Bimber ‘Darwin the Naturalist’ (58.3%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, bourbon, cask #376, 259 bottles, 2024)

A delightful nod to Darwin, reminding us of humanity’s shared ancestry with primates—a fact underscored by the international news these days. Perhaps there’s a Bimber for David Hume too (though, being Scottish, he might have objected). Colour: gold. Nose: it’s almost embarrassing how effortlessly these ex-bourbon Bimbers deliver, bursting with ripe papaya, mango, peach liqueur, and the flakiest fresh croissants. You’ll want to dive right in. With water: subtle vegetal oils emerge, with the faintest hint of shoe polish. Mouth (neat): banana and kiwi liqueurs make an entrance, followed by assertive notes of Timut and pink peppercorns—marvellously vivid. I’m quite taken with it. With water: it’s just more of the same, in all the right ways. Finish: long, never straying into ‘fruit bomb’ excess. Echoes of peach skin, apple, and melon play through. Comments: as Darwin wittily observed, ‘An American monkey, after getting drunk on brandy, would never touch it again, and thus is much wiser than most men.’
SGP:751 - 89 points.

Daiking ‘The Reserva Bourbon Cask’ (53%, OB, China, 1st fill bourbon cask, +/-2024)

We previously tried the lower-strength releases and found them to be quite successful, crafted in a polished, international style, and, importantly, free from flaws. Notably, this expression is non-chill-filtered and free from caramel colouring. Colour: gold. Nose: initially, it shows a slightly fermentative character with soft beer notes, cake batter, boiled vegetables like aubergine and courgette, and hints of both earthiness and butter caramel. With water: buttery shortbread and delicate biscuits emerge. Mouth (neat): pleasantly full of citrus liqueurs, a touch of ginger, green wood spices, and dried fruits—think lychees and rambutans. It comes together very nicely. With water: apricots, apples, barley syrup, and papayas join the mix. Finish: not particularly long but well-balanced, with a pleasing fruitiness and a faint touch of eucalyptus. Comments: when tasting a whisky like this, it’s crucial to set aside cultural biases—steer clear of thinking about Temu, Wish, or AliExpress. Remember, China also produces some of the finest teas in the world. All in all, I find this Daiking very well executed.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Cotswolds 2015/2024 (51%, OB, England, 1st fill bourbon, cask #451, 265 bottles)

Let’s be upfront—I tasted this English gem at the Whisky Show in London, and it floored me. But who knows? In that lively atmosphere, surrounded by good company and warm conversation, perhaps I got swept up in the moment. Time for a sober reassessment. Colour: gold. Nose: impeccably precise, with aromas of dough, croissant pastry, a touch of beach sand and chalk, leading to restrained notes of pears and bananas, all crowned by a flourish of butterscotch. With water: pears, bananas, papayas, crème anglaise, and wildflower honey. Nothing more needed. Mouth (neat): magnificent, this time bursting with a vibrant fruitiness anchored by stern notes of coffee and caramel. A frenzy of vineyard peaches dances in the background. With water: simply perfect, accented by hints of camphor and mint. Finish: not vast but delightfully fruity, enough to make the R&D team at Haribo green with envy. Comments: well, I wasn’t wrong after all (self-congratulation is dreadful, isn’t it, S.?).
SGP:751 - 90 points.

To conclude, we had been wanting to try this intriguing little number for a few weeks. We’re so accustomed to the sublime single cask versions at around 60% ABV…

Hellyers Road ‘Aurora Australis’ (40%, OB, Tasmania/Australia, +/-2024)

A story tied to a Roman goddess—one could only marvel at the idea of the Romans setting foot in Tasmania (a bit of historical humour there). Colour: white wine. Nose: unexpectedly ultra-fermentative with waxy tallow, roasted artichoke, pickled mushrooms, rainwater, bison grass, ale, and a whiff of mentholated tobacco. An intriguing bouquet that works surprisingly well, though one must question the decision to bottle it at 40%; by the time it reaches Europe, it’s likely shed a degree or two (just a cheeky thought). Mouth: quirky and delightfully so. Strongly fermentative, smoked with an indeterminate natural element, peppery, woody, and bitter, but all wrapped with a pleasant touch of bitter orange and deeply dark chocolate. The emphasis on its idiosyncrasies in this base expression is commendable, especially with that meaty sweetness emerging as it opens—honey and chilli-glazed beef jerky, perhaps. Finish: fairly long, quite bitter, and smoky, showcasing smoked paprika and cocoa powder. Comments: a ‘free whisky’ much like ‘free jazz’—bravo for resisting the lure of the typical PX or mizunara finish. A true, ethical whisky, unapologetically non-mainstream.
SGP:572 - 85 points.

Check the index of all whiskies of the world we've tasted so far