A Quartet of Unusual Young Benromach


January 26, 2024

A Quartet of Unusual Young Benromach

We're quite fond of Benromach at WF, but take heed, today we're introducing some unconventional styles to our rather concise line-up. One cannot merely sample the classic expressions, but you'll tell me that in Scotland and in the whisky world at large, classic whisky is becoming unusual…

Benromach 2011/2022 'Contrasts : Triple Distilled' (46%, OB)

This Benromach could be from the Lowlands or Ireland, in a manner of speaking. But you might say that even in those two places, triple-distillation itself is becoming rarer. This interesting Benromach has been through the spirit-still twice before being aged in first-fill bourbon casks. We had tasted the 2009/2017 edition, and it was quite good (WF 84). Colour: pale gold. Nose: the chalky aspect of Benromach remains, as does the porridge, virgin wool, fresh bread, damp earth, ink... It's somewhat like a slightly lighter Benromach. Mouth: it's really good, with peat that becomes delicate, lemon and green apple, that vanilla from the cask, a bit of green apple liqueur (a Spanish specialty)... Finish: medium length, more lemony. A bit of green tea, sweet pepper... Light smoke at the end. Comments: we wouldn't call it 'Benromach Light', but the standard 10 and 15 year olds, as well as the last vintage ex-bourbon ones were so stellar that by comparison, let's say this one might be a little more 'optional'.
SGP:452 - 83 points.

Benromach 12 yo 2011/2023 'Contrasts : Bordeaux Finish' (46%, OB)

If they must. This one baby spent its last 5 years in wood in 'Bordeaux wine casks', so it's double maturation instead of finish, although they would write both on the label. I suppose it was red Bordeaux but they wouldn't tell. Many people believe Bx is red, but you can have them in all colours. Sauternes is Bordeaux too. Colour: gold. Nose: all right, it is not about red berries, bell pepper and stuff. We're leaning towards fresh cakes, brioche, cut grass, and also a bit of cooked ham. These ham notes are quite unusual, especially to this extent. Mouth: yes, not bad at all! A bit of strawberry jam this time, as well as green pepper, bay leaves, small salty and smoky touches, bitter oranges, and then a slightly unexpected fino-like side. In short, we're not on raspberry and blackcurrant liqueur, thankfully. Finish: quite long, indeed pleasant and ultimately rather coastal. But Bordeaux is located by the ocean. Comments: nice, just perhaps not something to replace the... classics.
SGP:462 - 83 points.

Benromach 2013/2023 'Vintage Cask Strength Batch 1' (59.7%, OB, bourbon and first fill sherry)

They had already released a 'Cask Strength Batch 01' in 2022, not certain if it's from the same series, all that might be a bit complex (one has to keep up a bit, S.!) Colour: gold. Nose: quite some woodiness initially, with cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger, which gives it a cask-driven aspect that's not necessarily the most marvellous ever. A reversal of values? We shall see… With water: green tea, asparagus, laundry powder, new sweatshirt, lentils and leeks… Mouth (neat): it starts strong and even though there's a lot of wood, the robust distillate balances it all out. There's quite a bit of curry, green pepper, ginger… With water: it works, the water brings the distillate back to centre stage, thankfully. Smoke, yuzu, green apples, lemons, sea water, green pepper… Finish: long, herbaceous, spicy. Ginger and wasabi, that would be good for seasoning sushi – but they say you should never season sushi yourself, don't they. Comments: one really feels like buying a pallet, putting everything back into demijohns with split corks (certainly not in casks), and waiting thirty years… But it seems we are making good progress, nonetheless.
SGP:473 - 84 points.

Benromach 2013/2023 (59.9%, OB for Whisky Club Nantais, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #498, 216 bottles)

Done for a great whisky club in Nantes, a Breton town of note (yes, indeed). We've already sampled some excellent malts selected by the Whisky Club Nantais. Be warned, given the pedigree here, this can be a swift experience... Colour: white wine. Nose: there we have it, deeply into clay, damp chalk, sourdough bread, raw wool, slate, beach bonfire, even oyster shells... With water: it's the raw wool that wins the battle. There are even wafts of Woolite and this laundry detergent aspect is incredible. Mouth (neat): lemon, chalk, peat, sea water and oysters, fattier vanilla, aniseed mint, black pepper… Not much to add, it's a surgical Benromach, just as we like them. With water: yes, of course, obviously. A touch of lemon meringue pie adds a bit of roundness, but with some menthol. Finish: long and crystalline. We're at the heart of the reactor. The aftertaste is a little bitter, with a very small hint of Brussels sprouts or chicory. Or dandelion. salad Or something... Breton. Comments: jokes aside, this is pure Benromach. It can be said that it has crushed the competition today. Mind you, it's better without water, but they've bottled it at 60% ABV. A cruel dilemma to consider here.
SGP:463 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Benromach we've tasted so far