A bag of various grains


March 1, 2024

Coconut Special
A bag of various grains

What we've learnt within the last twenty years is that grain whisky is not only, or at least not always a somewhat counterfeit whisky solely produced to dilute malt, lacking any soul or texture, devoid of intrinsic quality, and especially laden with vanillin and artificial coconut flavours encapsulated in nail polish. All right then… We'll still try to do this quick.

North British 15 yo 2007/2022 (55.5%, Liquid Treasures, sherry butt)

Of course, a good sherry cask can change everything. Love red ibises, by the way (S., it's a pink flamingo). Not too sure North British were doing 100% maize (plus malted barley, naturally) in 2007, as they used to do earlier. I know I should ask them… Colour: deep gold. Nose: a malty grain. Butterscotch, cappuccino, praline, walnut wine, touch of varnish and touch of balsamic vinegar, great bourbon… High-category this far. With water: some earthy touches, green walnuts, old teapot, patchouli, a little engine oil… This is rather awesome. Mouth (neat): sweetened coffee, coffee-schnapps, Tia Maria, chocolate and coffee drops… With water: some tobacco ice-cream and woodruff syrup. Black teas. Finish: medium, earthier, even a tad dirty for grain whisky, pleasantly so. Comments: some kind of blend of rum, malt and sherry. Where's the grain? Excellent.
SGP:651 - 84 points.

So much for 'counterfeit whiskies' (we're not in Islington times anymore, S.)

Cameronbridge 16 yo 2006/2023 (57.6%, Dh Global Spirits, Connoisseurs Dram, 1st fill amontillado, cask #377390, 400 bottles)

In the name of Alfonso X, King of Castile, León and all of Andalusia, this is 1st fill amontillado! Colour: gold. Nose: gentler, more on cakes, some distant saltiness (sea spray), some gentle walnut cake… could be that it would need some unlocking. With water: as great as amontillado would get, with loads of walnuts and mustard, flints, even some native sulphur (stone), crushed slate, tight leather and tobacco, chen-pi… Mouth (neat): walnuts, coffee, tobacco, mustard, bay leaves, bitter oranges… And quite a little ethanol. Right, with water: exquisite walnuts coasted with honey and mustard. Some raisins bringing some sweetness in the background, PX-style. Finish: rather long, on similar flavours of walnuts and sweet mustard. Mushroomy aftertaste. Comments: very amontillado-y but that was to be expected, no little grain whisky could have resisted it. Love amontillado.
SGP:462 - 85 points.

Amontillado? Wait…

Port Dundas 23 yo 2000/2023 (49.9%, James Eadie, amontillado finish, cask #366662)

From the now-closed Port Dundas distillery, which had been the largest Scottish distillery at some point. Colour: gold. Nose: similar as far as aromas are concerned, but globally drier and leafier. More fermentary too, which imparts a malty side, otherwise mustard and walnuts are leading the pack. Mouth: it's on the palate that things happen, with indeed a lot of sweet mustard, turmeric, saffron, bitter oranges, cigarette tobacco, chen-pi again, cardamom… Grain whisky light whisky, yeah yeah. Finish: long, leafy, yet sweet. Say myrtle liqueur, oude genever and Cynar. Know Cynar? Comments: the Cameronbridge was both fuller and more complex, but this crazy Dundas was not one to be taken in by stories either. Viva amontillado!
SGP:462 - 83 points.

Since we're in the year 2000…

Port Dundas 23 yo 2000/2023 (54.7%, James Eadie, refill PX hogshead, cask #366663, 283 bottles)

Colour: dark amber. Nose: metal polish to kick this off, old coins, old silverware, old copper kettle, then greases, Barbour grease, the expected walnuts, the no-less-expected mustard, juniper… But not 100% sure TBH. With water: awesome! Stunning sherry, even if it was only a finishing, give it a few minutes and presto, you're having langoustines and sherry on the banks of the Guadalquivir. Exquisite nose, believe me. Mouth (neat): prunes, raisins, heavy honey, molasses, Chinese cough syrup (Nin Jiom Pei Pa Koa, I'm a rationalist but the bl**dy thing works with me)… With water: wonderful. This can't be grain whisky. Finish: long and perfect. Some kind of od herbal liqueur from the very beginning of the 20th century, stuff drunk by Picasso, Man Ray, Satie and Picabia, to name but a few. Comments: I don't want to hear about how they actually made this. Remember that old saying about mortadella?
SGP:371 - 87 points.

Whatever happens to the whisky market in the coming years, let's make sure we support the small, passionate and valiant bottlers, rather than those who are just in it for the money, okay?

Dumbarton 22 yo 2000/2023 (55.5%, Watt Whisky, hogshead, 204 bottles)

Dumbarton Distillery was ugly, almost as ugly as a FIAT Multipla or as a footballer's Audemars-Piguet in rosé gold. Colour: light gold. Nose: woosh, greengages, fresh butter, biscuits, nougat and meringue. With water: popcorn and bamboo shoots. Mouth (neat): probably not my favourite kind of whisky, but these fruit liqueurs and this coconutty oak seem to work. With water: sweet, easy, coconut balls, Spanish liqueurs, Mei-kwei-lu… Finish: same. Comments: right, maybe not my cup of single whisky but all the rest in the range is just utterly brilliant. Not too sure why no one ever blended away this modest wee cask. Wil they ever forgive me?
SGP:640 - 74 points.

Just to make sure…

Dumbarton 22 yo 2000/2023 (62.1%, Lady of the Glen, refill hogshead, cask #211903)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: same, ultra-basic, sweet, vanilla-ed, with some nail polish but that may be the very high strength. With water: no, it's almost like Bacardi white, that is to say empty, basically. Mouth (neat): some sugar, some ethanol, some varnish, some apple juice. A soldier's whisky, I would say, it even reminds me of Rommel's terrible whisky from WWII. With water: easier, so better, but that is all. Pure fodder or filler, as you like. Finish: short, empty. Anybody in there? Comments: love Lady of the Glen, fully and plainly, but let's be honest, these poor little 'whiskies' were probably never produced to be bottled as single casks.
SGP:630 – 69 points.

North British 32 yo 1991/2023 (50.1%, Watt Whisky, barrel, 102 bottles)

I'm almost sure this was maize at that time. Colour: light gold. Nose: sesame and sunflower oil, white chocolate, light acacia honey, nougat and croissants. Fine, but not too sure… With water: yep! Many subtle oils, more sesame, peanut and pistachio, baguette dough (or pizza dough, sorry Italian friends, that's basically the same), a touch of putty and linoleum, old copper coins (penny book)… What's sure is that this one takes water extremely well, never forget to reduce them even when they were bottled at some seemingly civilised strengths, such as these 50.1%. Mouth (neat): pretty good, you would almost think young bourbon (but this is 32), with some chamomile tea and pancake sauce. Maple syrup for sure. With water: no changes but that's fine. Finish: shortish but clean, vanilla-ed, easy, with some white chocolate, cornflakes, barley syrup and popcorn. After all, this is grain whisky. Comments: quite great, let's remember that this is only grain whisky.
SGP:531 - 80 points.

All right, comparisons, always…

North British 31 yo 1991/2023 (44.9%, The Whisky Fair, bourbon barrel, cask #264528, 206 bottles)

We should manage to attend Limburg this year. Colour: light gold. Nose: same, light honey, apple juice, white chocolate, breads, peanut butter… Not many differences. Mouth: sweet grain whisky, with vanilla, coconuts, pear liqueur, sweet teas, rosehip, light tea, maple syrup… Finish: medium, sweet and sour. Comments: it's fine for sure but is it really necessary to release all these single grains? As we sometimes say, 'it is not Brora 1972'.
SGP:531 - 79 points.

I'm afraid grain fatigue is starting to strike us, so please a very last one. Next grain session in 2025.

North British 32 yo 1991/2023 (47.7%, DramCatcher, 1st fill barrel, cask #200319, 190 bottles)

It may be to be remembered that North British is a joint-venture between the brilliant world-level experts at Diageo and the utter international stars at Edrington. Colour: white wine (great news). Nose: the awesomeness of a lazy barrel, with almost no stupid coconut or vulgar vanilla, rather peaches and champagne, that is to say a proper Bellini. A few tinier herbs beyond that, wormwood, verbena, also quieter ones such as borage, pansies, fresh wisteria (they're too fast again this year in WF's garden)… Mouth: perhaps not a paragon of unwooded elegance on the palate, but indeed it works, despite the dreaded coconut which is coming to light. Finish: sweeter and not that short, not the best part. Comments: as always, oak is either whisky's best friend or its worst enemy. Rather best friend this time, for sure – on the nose at least. Palate was a little more difficult.
SGP:531 - 80 points.

Honestly, what we did today was too tough. Of course, you can intellectualize all you want, but as our friends on Facebook often say, in the end the question remains 'would I buy a bottle?' Today, the answer remains 'I'd rather send the money to Alexey Navalny's family.' Having said that, many friends love these grains, so always only a matter of individual taste!

Check the index of all grains we've tasted so far