A buncha Caol Ila


August 27, 2024

A buncha
Caol Ila

Well, yes, we're trying to do the American thing now that Miss Knowles has her own US whisky brand, backed by LVMH, Dr Bill, and, uh, some PX, and whose bottle looks like some kind of White Horse or Lgan special duty-free decanter, circa 1970. Although its name, SirDavis, sounds more like '1980'. In any case, we’re quietly heading towards our 900th Caol Ila. We’ll try to enjoy the 1000th one on-site, on Islay.

(Advert 1970)

Caol Ila 25 yo (43%, OB, +/-2024)

It's been quite a while since we've properly tasted this expression, though Angus has sampled several 'vintages' over the years. These 43% ABV whiskies might seem a tad old-fashioned nowadays, but isn't there a certain charm in that? If my grandmother, born in 1901, were still with us, this would be the whisky she'd pick, solely because of the gentler strength. Perhaps there's still a market for that, after all. Colour: gold. Nose: they say Caol Ila never ages, and even the oldest ones stay fresh and vibrant, which is certainly the case here. There's rapeseed oil, almonds, marzipan, and then shellfish like clams and mussels, with a faint hint of engine oil. The peat is outrageously elegant, with a whiff of mentholated Kool cigarette smoke. Mouth: almost like a smoked wine, reminiscent of Manzanilla sherry. It's not much stronger, either—a grand wine at 15% ABV could have more body than a whisky at 43%. But it's undeniably delicious and very ‘Manzanilla’. I might need to start sending invoices to the Consejo Regulador. Finish: not eternal but pure, saline, and smoky. Sardines, langoustines, and… Manzanilla. Comments: the epitome of Islay elegance, better than a Peaky Blinders cap made of Harris Tweed.
SGP:355 - 89 points.

By the way, future whisky enthusiasts, in twenty years, will have no trouble dating these bottles, since every year now, or nearly every year, the makers have to add new ~~nonsense~~ legal mentions on the back labels.

Caol Ila 8 yo 2015/2023 (40%, Signatory Vintage, Very Cloudy, The Un-chillfiltered Collection, LMDW, hogshead)

As it hasn’t been chill-filtered and was bottled at 40%, it may turn slightly cloudy if exposed to the cold, hence the name. Clever, isn’t it? Rest assured, we didn’t stick it in the fridge to test that out. Colour: straw. Nose: the word that immediately springs to mind is ‘purity’. Lemon, candle smoke, sea water, a light vinegary touch, an oyster, and a dash of Sauvignon Blanc—there you have it. Mouth: more fruit-forward (pineapple, pear, lemon) but still wonderfully maritime, with oysters and cockles aplenty. The proverbial ashes follow. No complaints. Finish: curiously long, peaty, taut, and somehow reassuring (what?). Comments: does the job rather splendidly. I reckon this would sit well on the table with fish, seafood, and… caviar.
SGP:556 - 85 points.

Caol Ila 12 yo ‘The Haunting Songs’ (51.6%, Brave New Spirits, The Whisky Heroes, 1st fill Oloroso sherry hogshead finish, cask #2310708 + 2310707, 694 bottles)

The label cheekily sings ‘I will peat you away’, and one can only hope we’re not in for another round of Beyoncé. There’s a fair bit of fun and a clear sense of second-degree humour in the presentation. It seems that most Scottish indies have chosen this kind of approach in recent years, and it’s rather enjoyable. Colour: gold. Nose: oh yes, used fondue oil, graphite, walnuts, thyme, tar, ashes, and a hint of seashells. The sherry, although 1st fill, has remained in check for now. With water: almond milk and just a touch of malted barley. Mouth (neat): very good, rich, with notes of rosemary, limoncello, caramel, walnut liqueur, olive brine, and a hint of St Germain. And it’s all in sync. With water: the herbal notes challenge the mix a bit (thyme, pine needles) but it still works. In any case, Caol Ila is like an old diesel Mercedes; it just keeps going. Finish: long, a bit thick, salty, and with caramel. A touch of honey follows, and a whisper of sea water. Comments: a lovely beast, slightly oily and muscular. The opposite of the SigV in this regard.
SGP:666 - 86 points.

Caol Ila 13 yo 2009+2010/2024 (53%, Decadent Drinks, Islay Sponge, refill and 1st fill sherry hogsheads, 273 bottles)

The former Sponge, now an entire Land, enjoys blending vintages and cask types. As always with Caol Ila, the question isn’t “is it good?” but rather “how good is it?” Colour: gold. Nose: we’re back to pickles, olives, capers, then salted liquorice and seaweed. The smoke is rather light, which is surprising given my usual impression that CI has ramped up the ppms in recent years. With water: old clothes in a wardrobe (but no mothballs), wool, a touch of mud, yeast, seashells, and oil paint. Mouth (neat): powerful and almost sweet, it’s nearly a ‘Caol Ila liqueur’ akin to a Chartreuse elixir. Massive! Smoke, herbs, cactus, cloves, caraway, and the like. With water: we remain in a universe akin to Brave New Spirits’, quite muscular and rich, but lime comes in to balance things in the background. Finish: long, with cedarwood and that slightly oily, somewhat thick character. A hint of smoked pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, though not exactly a ‘dandy’ Caol Ila, if you catch my drift.
SGP:666 - 86 points.

We had agreed on just 5 CI today, hadn’t we.

Caol Ila 12 yo 2008/2021 (57.8%, Whiskyjace & Flickenschild, Art Edition No. 3, refill hogshead and sherry octave cask finish, 107 bottles)

The nearly Murnau-like label is absolutely sublime. Moreover, when it comes to octaves, they're much more agreeable when they're refill casks—new ones can be a bit tricky, although all our friends seem to be taming these unruly little beasts better and better. Colour: white wine. That's promising news. Nose: forget about the octave (so to speak), this Caol Ila is as fresh as a daisy, almost nervy, with seawater, fresh seaweed, lemon, oysters, and all sorts of ashes (mostly peat). With water: Caol Ila precision. Magnificent chalk. Mouth (neat): superb, lemony, fresh, with a magnificent smokiness. And oysters, of course. Splendid. With water: perfect. Bitter almonds, lemon, Muscadet, oysters, 'zero' dosage champagne, ashes... Finish: similar, perhaps a touch oilier. Notes of apple and lemon liqueur, then some freshly ground pepper and a fairly massive smokiness. Comments: at this rate, they might as well toss in Brora 1972 into octaves. A magnificent young Caol Ila.
SGP:567 - 88 points.

Check the index of all Caol Ila we've tasted so far