A few Armagnacs this time


November 3, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A few Armagnacs this time

Rum, rum, cognac, Armagnac, rum, rum, cognac… That does seem to be the rhythm of our Malternatives, doesn’t it? So today, it’s Armagnac. We’ll try to approach this in a slightly unstructured way – I know we always say that and end up doing overly Cartesian vertical tastings, but we’ll really try this time, promise.

A vintage advertisement from the 1940s. The angels didn’t just drink; they also distilled, even if the still they used wasn’t exactly traditional for the region, was it.

Dartigalongue 2010 ‘Folle Blanche’ (48%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, 492 bottles, Sept 2024)

Fully matured in good old Gascon oak, no trendy mizunara or syrupy PX meddling here, so no need for concern. The label mentions ‘récolte 2010’, a helpful reminder that vintage dates are tied to the harvest year rather than distillation. Colour: light amber. Nose: ah, splendid. We’ve got furniture wax, almond milk, toasted sesame, dried figs, a touch of oil paint, vineyard peaches, and juicy oranges. The waxy notes really elevate this, nudging it quietly yet undeniably into malt whisky territory. Mouth: much the same sentiment—almost malty and just a whisper smoky, with a hint of lactic funk. Think powdered coffee, Ovaltine, sultanas, followed by prunes, a scattering of porcini mushrooms, and a subtle saline edge. Finish: long, leaning into chocolatey territory, with lingering coffee and a final flourish of marmalade and liquorice. Comments: cracking stuff, this young Armagnac kicks off with a bold yet refined modern touch.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Laterrade 50 yo (45.1%, Poh ! Spirits, Armagnac, 90 bottles, 2024)

Ugni Blanc and Baco. Laterrade is a relatively young trading house, as is Poh ! Spirits, and it’s always a joy to see fresh, passionate bottlers pushing forward with their own selections. The label sports a bunch of flying moustaches, which immediately makes me think of... dear Charlie Maclean. Colour: full amber. Nose: this one leans more into classic charm and elegance, offering a wonderfully floral bouquet—broom, hibiscus, and jasmine—followed by a medley of wildflower honeys, sultanas, and a delightful grappa-like aromatic quality, perhaps reminiscent of marc de Gewürztraminer (I know, no umlaut in French). It’s vibrant, almost playful, with hints of rose petal. Mouth: superbly soft, nearly creamy like a liqueur, but with an underlying earthy and spicy tension that leads into fir honey and robust Québec maple syrup from the northern climes, where I believe it tastes its finest. There’s absolutely no harshness; this venerable Armagnac is purely benevolent. Finish: long, with classic notes of pine bud and liquorice appearing as expected, finishing with chestnut honey and a gentle coffee echo. Comments: an extraordinary old Armagnac, or as they might say in the Gers, ‘it goes down like an up-and-under.’ Take care, though—you could easily polish off a whole bottle without even thinking.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Château de Laubade 2010/2021 ‘L’Enchanteur’ (45.2%, OB, Les Curiosités de Laubade, 562 bottles)

This one had an 8-month finishing stint in an ex-Doisy Daëne cask, a rather fine Sauternes. Actually a Barsac like Coutet or Climens, but all Barsac can call themselves Sauternes. I’m glad they’ve labelled it a ‘curiosity’; in the whisky world, they’d be spinning a grandiose tale of the ultimate, unprecedented, divinely innovative pairing. Colour: full gold. Nose: well, it’s true that a young Armagnac and a young Sauternes do a splendid tango together. I wouldn’t go so far as to say the Sémillon takes over, but the combination of apricots, honey, and yellow flowers works beautifully. There’s citron liqueur, mandarin, unmistakable Sauternes notes, and even a whisper of fresh rubber, which adds a nice structural edge. Mouth: sinful, frankly. More spices, more honey, more raisins, and an entire family pack of liquorice allsorts. Dried apricot halves, lush and chewy. Finish: medium length, with sweet fudge and runny caramel. Yes, that too is sinful. Comments: the finishing in Sauternes feels natural, unforced, and perfectly logical.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Domaine de Rounagle 2009/2024 (53.9%, Zero Nine Spirits, Ténarèze, Ar06)

These labels are wild, Ténarèze is wild, everything here feels delightfully unhinged. Very French, indeed. Colour: bronze gold. Nose: it’s flawed, but wait, flawed can still be stunning. My neighbour insists all Laphroaigs are defective, just to give you a bit of perspective. Anyway, we’re greeted with generous notes of mead and Calvados, a good dose of Nescafé, various Starbucks concoctions, a repeat of Ovaltine, and even some leek and cauliflower soup sweetened with honey. With water: zero chance of winning awards but maximum appeal for whisky fanatics. There’s a metallic edge, like old brass, and a touch of fine-quality retsina. Mouth (neat): very malty, truly. It feels like a robust, ex-Amontillado-inflected malt joined forces with a British Guyanese rum. It’s a bit bonkers and absolutely fantastic. With water: what’s this, absinthe? A spirit that defies classification. Finish: long, complex, slightly smoky, and undeniably esoteric. Comments: was any of this intentional? Controlled? Tested and approved? Who knows—but it’s deliciously improbable.
SGP:562 - 87 points.

Enclos du Simsat 2003 (48.6%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2024)

A blend of Baco and Ugni Blanc from a small domaine that, truth be told, we’d never heard of before—not that it means anything. Colour: gold. Nose: a fresh and lively Armagnac, full of energy with crisp apples, bright citrus, and an abundance of varied honeys, including hints of pollen and beeswax. All of this melds into sultanas and luscious sweet wine tones reminiscent of both Petit and Grand Manseng. There’s also a refreshing twist from liquorice and star anise, keeping it wonderfully zesty. Mouth: it starts off more ‘traditional,’ woodier, with notes of bitter chocolate, black coffee, pine resin, and propolis. Not what I expected, but let’s see what water does. With water: some garden fruits reappear, apples and pears, but that pine note remains dominant. Finish: rather long and resinous, with touches of mint and dark chocolate. Comments: I loved the nose, but the palate, with its more pronounced wood influence, was just a tiny-wee tad more challenging for me.
SGP:561 - 83 points.

Domaine Jean-Bon 1992 (50.1%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2024)

Pure Baco. They say Baco can drive you mad, and in the end, you might start resembling either D. Trump or JL Mélenchon. So, best to tread carefully… Colour: amber. Nose: ah yes, varnish and wood glue up front, followed by overripe apples, Basque cake, almond biscuits, and fresh tobacco. With water: a delightful citrusy and herbal tension emerges, almost refreshing on the nose. Mouth (neat): spot on. More varnish and glue, lemon liqueur, sharp lime juice, and acidic white wine… You can practically count your vertebrae as it slides down—that’s the beauty of it. Seriously, it’s cracking stuff. With water: brings out tart little green apples, the kind you’d find in a rustic parish garden somewhere in Bas-Armagnac. And yes, still a touch of varnish. Finish: long, taut, fresh, and delightfully rustic. Comments: honestly, it’s brilliant, instantly transporting you to holiday mode in the region. Who needs other stimulants?
SGP:461 - 88 points.

Domaine de Charron 2008/2024 (50.2%, Swell de Spirits, Bas-Armagnac)

100% Baco from one of our favourite domaines, the one rumoured to be raising zebras. Colour: full amber. Nose: very clean, compact, and modern, with an impeccably crafted fruitiness—think ripe mango and banana. With water: in come lovely touches of mint and verbena. Mouth (neat): oh, brilliant. There’s indeed mint, alongside thyme honey, apricots, prunes, and citron zest. It really makes itself heard. With water: splendid. More mint, lemon, and a hint of chocolate. Finish: much the same, with just the faintest whisper of lemon. The mint lingers charmingly—this one’s not going anywhere. Comments: it’s tight, structured, and superbly executed. Charron with a menthol twist.
SGP:562 - 89 points.

(BTW, where is Baraillon?)

Domaine Lous Pibous 1994/2024 (54.8%, L’Encantada, LMDW Foundations, cask #132bis, 120 bottles)

Lous Pibous has been ‘out of biz’ since 2004, yet L’Encantada continues to carry the torch with undeniable flair. The fact that Pibous is long-gone does seem a bit of an injustice when compared to the survival of some truly dreadful offerings in the world of rum (no names, but you know them). Colour: red amber. Nose: warm and slightly spicy, with blood oranges, peonies, and pink peppercorns. It’s wonderfully delicate, with a subtle fermentative edge, like sourdough bread. With water: perfect, evoking old wood, tobacco, blood oranges, and fragrant herbs. Mouth (neat): heavens! Caramel, chocolate, and deep, resonant Armagnac. That 55% ABV might feel a touch too hot for an Armagnac—just a personal observation; it wouldn’t feel the same with malt whisky, which sometimes lacks this kind of depth. With water: delighted to report that we’ve tamed it. Lovely liquorice, aged rum vibes, mint, orange zest, and perhaps fennel, but certainly liquorice root. Finish: dry and slightly astringent, with a faint touch of artichoke. Comments: quite the journey, this Lous Pibous 1994. Not the easiest spirit to follow, but one well worth the adventure.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Château de Laubade 2003/2021 (52.7%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, cask #200024, chai #3, tirage #1)

A fine example of a cask that’s been ‘drawn’ from multiple times. To be honest, I can’t be certain this is indeed tirage #1 in my tulip glass, but let’s face it, most of us couldn’t care less. You know what I mean? Colour: amber. Nose: absolutely lovely! Sultanas, freshly peeled oranges, fruity and smooth Italian olive oil, jujubes, and sorb apples… near perfection. With water: mint tea—magical stuff. Mouth (neat): perfection, really. White chocolate, nougat, roasted pecans, assorted honeys, sultanas, blonde cigarette tobacco, and white turron. With water: careful now, don’t overdo it; I think Armagnac collapses a little faster than whisky when watered down. Gentle mint, herbal infusions, and hints of fruit peels. Finish: long, with soft notes lingering. Comments: honestly, I’m almost embarrassed to say this, but skip the water with this type of brandy, especially when it dances just over 50% ABV—you’ll only spoil it if you’re not careful, if you catch my drift. Beyond those esoteric considerations, this little Laubade is just perfect.
SGP:451 - 90 points.

Last one please, and quickly…

Alabat 1992/2024 (50.5%, OB, LMDW Foundations, cask #37, 192 bottles)

This one hails from Domaine de Péré, in Bourrouillan, deep in the heart of the Gers—a land where tales of witches, forbidden rituals, and wild feasts abound. What can I say, the Gers is the Gers. Oh, and by the way, Alabat’s labels are some of the finest of the past few years, hands down. Si! Colour: copper amber. Nose: old wine notes, earthy mushrooms, stewed fruits, flambéed bananas, light molasses, and overripe cherries. Still reserving judgment here. With water: loads of pipe tobacco. Then again, I’m aware that younger spirit enthusiasts probably have no clue what pipe tobacco even smells like. Mouth (neat): very traditional, with aged wood, more tobacco, herbal teas, fudge, caramel, and sticky pine resin. With water: fir wood comes to the fore, followed by pine and fir bud liqueur. Very good, though perhaps not totally ueber-transcendent. Finish: long, with that ever-present resinous character, then raisins rounding things out. Comments: these Armagnacs are like a rollercoaster—earthy, rustic, and full of countryside spirit.
SGP:461 - 87 points.

A very high standard once again today, but let's remember that no one would think of sending us subpar stuff (we know it does exist), while we ourselves never go out of our way to seek it as we sometimes do for whiskies. Remember, this is ‘a whisky blog’. Right then, until next time.

Check the index of all armagnacs we've tasted so far