A few Dufftown


November 29, 2024

A few Dufftown

With an aperitif, simply because one must have one…

Singleton of Dufftown 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2016)

Those from about a dozen years ago were rather so-so (WF 75). Honestly, I’ve never quite grasped the whole Singleton story at Diageo, with Dufftown, Ord, Glendullan, and previously Auchroisk... This kind of umbrella brand housing different distilleries depending on the market is a bit baffling, but perhaps I’m not the quickest on the uptake. Let’s press on, shall we? Worth noting, this one still sports the older packaging. Colour: gold. Nose: a pleasant mix of walnuts, hazelnuts, hay, and malt, rounded off with caramel and a dollop of vanilla fudge. Quite nice, really. Mouth: the palate is less convincing, with a slightly oily texture but a rather shallow flavour profile. Some nougat and popcorn make an appearance, along with a hint of herbal tea. Finish: short and fairly malty, offering notes of bruised apples and a light touch of cappuccino. Comments: the 40% doesn’t do it any favours, but it’s honestly decent and probably better than the earlier batches. I’ll have to track down a newer release for comparison one day—or perhaps not.
SGP:441 - 78 points.

Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon & sherry, 2020)

Another rather vintage bottling. Colour: amber. Nose: the sherry influence (PX) seems to take the lead over the bourbon, with rich notes of raisins and sweet wine, accompanied by subtle hints of leather and roasted chestnuts. There’s also a slightly tangy edge (courtesy of the sherry again) and a touch of gently fermented dried figs. Mouth: classic PX-matured malt, showcasing raisins, sweetened coffee, mead, and a faint whisper of salinity that adds a nice dimension. Finish: medium in length, with salted butter caramel, liquorice, and a slight metallic tang. Comments: this one’s lovely, and it softens and rounds out rather beautifully as it breathes in the glass. In short, it delivers!
SGP:551 - 83 points.

Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo 2007/2017 (56.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 2 hogsheads)

The old black-labelled Cadenhead bottlings were known as ‘black dumpies,’ but I’m not sure if this series has earned a nickname yet— ‘black flats’? ‘Black squares’? Colour: straw. Nose: splendid, as this allows a more unadulterated, less doctored view of Dufftown’s malt. Here we find ripe apples, wort, rustic bread, and grist—a natural, straightforward profile, though perhaps not one to set pulses racing. With water: fresh bread and damp limestone—clean and honest. Mouth (neat): much more appealing, with notes of green apple and lemon, underscored by chalk and gunflint. On the one side it’s incredibly herbal and taut, yet there’s a delightful syrupy sweetness and a touch of white pepper in the back. With water: yellow melon emerges, along with a dash of agave syrup—charming stuff. Finish: long, precise, and beautifully balanced between mineral and fruity notes. Comments: I love this bottle not only because the whisky itself is genuinely excellent but also because it serves as a reminder of the superiority of a ‘natural’ maturation, free from excessive tampering. Well done, Cadenhead (yes, I know I’m a bit late to the party).
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Dufftown 14 yo 2008/2022 (50.4%, The Whisky Cask Company, 1st fill PX hogshead finish, 239 bottles)

A charming wee bottle from Switzerland. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a curious medley of walnuts, tangy fruits, old wines, and—unsurprisingly—Swiss cheese, with hints of garlic and kirsch. This Dufftown seems tailor-made to accompany a Swiss fondue (or as we’d say in France, a fondue savoyarde). There’s a lovely earthy undertone too. With water: fresher now, with notes of gentian, anise, dill, fennel, and slate—unusual but enticing. Mouth (neat): quirky yet nice, with a spicy, piquant character and that persistent cheesy edge. Think cumin, black pepper, and slightly overripe plums verging on fermentation. With water: leather and leafy notes emerge—tomato leaves, fig leaves—adding a rustic touch. Finish: long and, frankly, a bit odd. Comments: an amusing little creature. This one feels almost designed for pairing with food—fondue, garlic snails, spaghetti with chorizo, or even some Thai or Vietnamese dishes. All in good fun, but do give your glass a thorough rinse afterward.
SGP:462 - 79 points.

Dufftown-Glenlivet 11 yo 2007/2019 (54.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 282 bottles)

We’ve stashed away so many of these in the library... Colour: straw. Nose: utterly charming, completely natural, and unsurprisingly very similar to the Small Batch we just tasted. Fresh bread, melon, peach, wort, and chalk—simple yet so appealing. With water: fresh focaccia, damp limestone, and even a touch of white Burgundy Chardonnay—elegant and inviting. Mouth (neat): pure, unadulterated malt perfection. This is what we love. With water: green apple, barley syrup, a hint of agave and cane sugar, melon, and white peach—it’s all there, perfectly balanced. Finish: long, subtly sweet, with a refreshing touch of menthol. Comments: quick and to the point—this is excellent. Pure, irresistible Scottish malt whisky in its natural state.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

While we're at it, an older one…

Dufftown-Glenlivet 26 yo 1988/2015 (51%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 234 bottles)

Well, this could take us to great heights… or perhaps not. Let’s see. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a touch shy at first, taking its time to open up, as though it needs a good breath of air (don’t we all?). Initially, there’s a bit of acetone, fresh putty, and candle wax before the fruit begins to tiptoe in—melon skin and apples to start. Then, intriguingly, there’s moss and a whisper of mushrooms… the age showing through, perhaps? With water: oddly tired now, slightly past its best. Mouth (neat): a touch more engaging here, with citrus zest and some pleasantly lemony herbs. That said, exaggerated bitterness creeps in after just a few seconds. With water: nope, not works. Finish: no joy there either. Comments: I suspect this sample hasn’t fared well over time. The whisky itself appeared clear, the fill level was fine, but during my customary pre-check for older samples (especially those with questionable caps, which you come to recognize with experience), I already had my doubts. I should have followed my instincts and discarded it outright, as I usually do—lesson learned again. As an exception, we are publishing this note anyway, strictly for educational purposes.
SGP: no – (useless) points.

We were having other Dufftowns but I believe we shall try them later, we need a rest.

Check the index of all Dufftown we've tasted so far

		Bad caps, bad samples
		Reminder: Never use, and especially never keep samples with caps fitted with pads glued to the inside. In general, defects are very easily detectable on the nose alone and are more or less always the same, but that isn’t strictly always the case. Also, avoid trying to seal caps with sticky tape or duct tape beyond a few weeks (travel period, transit etc.), prefer Parafilm. In any case, pay close attention to spirits that seem unusually bitter or exhibit chemical or adhesive-like notes—unless you know that this is inherently part of the distillery’s style, as is the case with certain Jamaican rums, for example. Because to make things even easier, there is still glue/varnish, and then there is glue/varnish.