A few joyful blends from Scotland


December 16, 2024

A few joyful blends from Scotland

Let’s see what we’ve got. For example, this famous aperitif…

Johnnie Walker 12 yo 'Black Label' (40%, OB, +/-2024)

Johnnie Walker ‘Black’ and Chivas Regal, both proudly carrying their age statements (funny that, isn’t it) are the symbols of ‘deluxe’ Scotch for most of the planet. It’s only natural that we give them a go now and again, even if the last time we tried Johnnie Black, it didn’t have much in common with what it was back in the 1960s. No age statements back then, but a stellar level (WF 91) just to say… Colour: deep gold. Nose: toasted bread, toasted oak, a bit of fresh malt, some vanilla, then a touch of cardboard and fresh sawdust, followed by a little puff of peat smoke re-emerging and hints of crushed strawberries. Mouth: you could call it peaty, but there’s also a layer of apple compote and caramel, with a faint earthy edge. The structure’s not as light as you might expect. Finish: not very long, but you get some marmalade, a bit of coconut, and a malty aftertaste that’s just a wee bit salty. Comments: it’s still at WF 78. Make no mistake, that’s a very good score for such a widely distributed blend.
SGP:362 - 78 points.

St Bridget’s Kirk ‘Solera Release Batch #3’ (48.5%, Hannah Whisky Merchants, blended malt, oloroso finish, 218 bottles, 2024)

In the world of whisky, the term ‘solera’ can mean all sorts of things, from simple ‘living vats’ or ‘perpetual blends’ to proper systems with interconnected criaderas or casks, which seems to be the case here. Either way, this word always makes us long for another trip to Andalusia. Batch 2 was very good (WF 85), as was the amarone finish (yes, Serge here) … Colour: straw. Nose: a young, fruity, and cheerful malt that starts on ripe apples and brown sugar, moves through pears and gooseberries, reaches beeswax with a gentle smokiness, and then shows cherries and a few fresh biscuits. Some amaretti and a touch of fruity beer. Mouth: quite full-bodied, firmer on the palate, spicier too, smokier, with lovely pepper and those fresh fruits again, alongside a bit of wax. Hints of orange zest and a touch of ginger. Finish: rather long, on pepper and liquorice allsorts. A slightly saline, almost coastal character comes through afterwards. A faint touch of bitter sherry. Comments: this is an excellent blend, in my opinion—firm, fairly full-bodied but very well balanced.
SGP:562 - 85 points.

A Good Old-Fashioned Christmas Whisky 15 yo (54.8%, The Whisky Exchange, 2024)

Delighted to taste this one on time for once, rather than being my usual late self—it would have been far too obvious here. Note, this is a single malt. Colour: deep gold. Nose: an avalanche of raisins, little cakes, old walnuts, becoming increasingly dry despite a hint of old grain whisky (coconut), though, of course, there’s none in here. Cloves and dark chocolate. With water: a few touches of truffles and morels, a rather indulgent fruitcake, humus, and dead leaves… This baby loves water. Mouth (neat): even better than the nose, in proper GF style, rich, slightly thick, on prunes and thyme infusion, then coffee and chocolate. With water: the prunes return, alongside cloves, cumin, and a bit of fir honey. It really does scream Christmas, indeed. Finish: long, still rich and beautifully spiced. You can’t help but think of a very Germanic mulled wine. Comments: this is excellent and truly very ‘Christmas’. Apparently, Santa’s reindeer get through quite a bit of this stuff on Christmas Eve (one needs a conclusion, after all).
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Maiden’s Blend 25 yo 1999/2024 (44.6%, Vintage Bottlers, blended Scotch, cask #6, 652 bottles)

Here’s one of those ex-Edrington blends that have piqued the interest of many, most wondering if it’s really just a ‘blended Scotch’, whether there’s Macallan in it, and if so, in what proportions. I don’t think anyone has reached any definitive conclusions, and I doubt we’ll risk it this time either. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s more coastal and smokier than pure Macallan, with a rather splendid earthiness (mosses, dead leaves, wild mushrooms) and touches of grilled bacon too. Then comes a bit of tar, cigars, hints of hoisin sauce, pu-ehr tea, and bergamots… It only grows more complex over time. You get a faint whiff of old grain as well, it seems, but is there really any. A tiny touch of coconut. Mouth: a slight bourbon note to start, then dark beer, raisins, gingerbread, and a more pronounced ‘old grain’ character on the palate (coconut cappuccino, very Starbucks-esque). A little cola. Finish: fairly long, though this time it leans toward old column rum. Quality rum, of course. Comments: on the nose it feels very ‘malt’, while on the palate it’s a bit more ‘blend’. Either way, it’s excellent.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

There are four in total, let’s try a second one...

Maiden’s Blend 25 yo 1999/2024 (44.6%, Vintage Bottlers, blended Scotch, cask #7, 654 bottles)

Naturally, given the size of these batches, we’re talking butts. Colour: darker gold. Nose: this time it’s more about toffee taking charge, fruitcake, chocolate, dark nougat, and a few lovely metallic touches (like an old copper kettle from granny’s kitchen). Then there’s a hint of cedarwood and old tools from the back of the garage. Mouth: it’s very close to cask #6 on the palate, any differences are minimal. The cola note comes through nicely in the end. Finish: a lovely length, on herbal teas and, once again, some very fine rum. You particularly think of a famous Bajan rum. Comments: nothing here would justify awarding a different score to this one. We remain firmly at the top of the blends.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Peatsmoke on Gorgie 5 yo (57.1%, Watt Whisky, blended Scotch, 618 bottles)

This is 42% 5 yo peated malt plus 58% 12 yo North British. So, 5 yo peated malt… (ha). Colour: gold. Nose: I’d swear some aspects remind us of Johnnie Black, only with more power, more knack (how does one fire himself?) You get the feeling something’s about to happen once water is added, but for now, it’s still a bit gentle. With water: burning hay and straw, sheep suet, engine grease, gravel, basalt, but also some grist. Mouth (neat): a lovely rooty side, gentian, celery, even beetroot… All wrapped up in honey and orchard fruit compotes. The peat seems to stay a little hidden, but you can feel its presence waiting in the wings… With water: here it comes—seawater, lemon, ashes, pepper, kippers, iodine… It’s incredible, the power of water on whisky. I’ve noticed a whole trend of tasting whisky without adding a single drop of water, but I find that a shame. Well, this is an excellent whisky once reduced to, let’s say, 45% vol. Roughly speaking. Finish: better and better! The malt has crushed the grain. Comments: a sketch-like whisky—now there’s something new. Fun and excellent. And possibly the best use of young grain whisky.
SGP:566 (with water) - 87 points.

Since we’re having young ones...

Blended Malt #1 2017/2023 (51.6%, Cut Your Wolfe Loose, oloroso sherry butt, 333 bottles)

Blended Malt #1 2017/2023 (51.6%, Cut Your Wolf Loose, oloroso sherry butt, 333 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: some kind of waxier Islay peater, plus ripe apples and pears ‘from somewhere else’. The coastal side grows stronger over time, as does the peat. A wonderful sour cherry note, brine, anchovies, tapenade… With water: oh, how beautiful, we’re at the heart of the malt. Mouth (neat): excellent. Perfect punch, peat and lemon, plus aniseed and green apples. Nothing to throw away. With water: brined olives! But where do these olives come from? Finish: long, razor-sharp. Salty, smoky, close to the malt. Comments: it’s a bit like the cousin of the young Watt blend—very different, but in spirit, they’re close.
SGP:466 - 88 points.

Taraansay Blend 14 yo 2007/2021 (58.1%, Whiskyjace, Art Edition No.9, bourbon)

Awesome collage-y label here. Colour: white wine. Nose: light style, on vanilla, melon and coconut, plus a little hay. Perhaps not entirely living up to the grace of the label for now. With water: it becomes very gentle and reminds me a bit of Black Barrel, that not-so-successful experiment (unlike the rest) from William Grant. Mouth (neat): the grain takes the lead here, there doesn’t seem to be much malt in sight. Coconut liqueur and quite a bit of ethanol and wood. With water: much better, it becomes creamier, sweeter and softer. Corn and vanilla sugar. Finish: a touch of lemon brightens things up a bit. Comments: we’ve tasted things ten thousand times better from Whiskyjace, but I’ll admit the label is sublime. Still, this remains decent enough, honestly…
SGP:630 - 75 points.

Turntable 'Track #6 – All My Life’ (46%, Turntable Spirits, blended Scotch, 2024)

This is Balblair, Benriach, Glenallachie, Knockdhu and North British in ex-bourbon, Limousin and oloroso wood. Very Rolling Stones indeed (you say All My Life is by the Beatles? What Foo Fighters?) Colour: gold. Nose: just an upper blend. Good sweet and fruity malts, shortbread, vanilla, butterscotch and scones. We’ll have a double espresso, please. Mouth: same impression, ripe fruits, pear cake, soft malt, all sorts of cakes, banana bread, a touch of honey, a little orange… Finish: fairly long, as balanced as… let’s say, Simone Biles on the uneven bars. Coffee cream and maple syrup. Comments: a sense of ‘middle ground’ and perfect balance. The little North British doesn’t have much to say in this affair.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Turntable ‘Paradise Funk’ (46%, Turntable Spirits, blended Scotch, 2023)

Another bold mix of distilleries and casks, it seems we’ve got Benrinnes, Blair Athol, Invergordon, Knockdhu, North British, and a ‘secret’ Speyside (secret = who cares, really). Anyway, nothing funky in here, no Islay, no Jamaican. As for the paradise, we’ll see about that… Colour: gold. Nose: funky? It’s more like chamber music. Vanilla, melon, apple, barley, and buttered pancakes. Mouth: much better on the palate but still very malt-forward, with not much funk. It suffers a bit in comparison with the Foo Fighters, even if it’s perfectly decent now. Finish: not very long, with a fairly light texture dominated by sweet grains. A slightly earthier and even medicinal note appears in the aftertaste, but it’s a bit late. Comments: extremely correct, but it lacks a clear direction and, frankly, any funk. In short, it’s neither Kool & The Gang nor Parliament (nor our dear Average White Band).
SGP:641 - 79 points.

Turntable ‘Smokin’ Riff’ (46%, Turntable Spirits, blended Scotch, 2023)

Tell me this is peated… Right, there’s Caol Ila, Craigellachie, Knockdhu and North British. Let’s quickly see what North British’s maize can do against Caol Ila. We’re not even looking at cask types. Colour: amber gold (eh?). Nose: well, of course—engine oil, oyster shells, dried seaweed, ashes of all kinds, a box of cigars and a beach campfire. Mouth: well played! The proportions work brilliantly, with dark honey (strong in flavour), toasted brioche, touches of liquorice, mint and tar, and a bit of grapefruit sneaking in, a small gherkin, an oyster, a little green pepper, and a caper… Finish: more of the same for quite a while. Comments: one day we’ll need to build a monument to Caol Ila’s glory. Superb, this peated blend, with a riff worthy of Jimmy Page. Right, let’s spin Achilles Last Stand… I know, John Bonham…
SGP:565 - 87 points.

Blended Scotch 20 yo 2002/2023 (44.9%, Hogshead Imports, refill butt, 589 bottles)

Sometimes it’s nice not to know what’s inside—it feels like a holiday (ha). Colour: gold. Nose: very malty, also very much on dry sherry, coffee, tobacco, nuts, then mint, white chocolate, hazelnut halva, and coconut… Ah, that must be the grain, which gradually takes more and more importance over the malt. Phase in, phase out. Mouth: the grain takes the lead immediately this time. Frappuccino, vanilla cream, toasted macadamia nuts, coconut balls, and white chocolate. A few small bits of candied orange zest help consolidate the texture. Finish: of medium length, with that rum-like note we’ve found in a few others. Comments: it loses a bit of steam over time, but it’s still a very good blend. That said, I preferred their excellent 18 yo 2005 from a few months ago (WF 85).
SGP:541 - 83 points.

A last one and after ‘Hogshead’, ‘Oxhead’…

Blended Scotch 26 yo (44.9%, Oxhead Whisky Company, Dram-Addicts, sherry butt, cask #117359, 2024)

As I understand it, this contains Bunnahabhain, Glenlivet, Glenrothes, Highland Park, Macallan, Invergordon and North British. Surprised there’s Glenlivet. 70% malt, 30% grain, excusez du peu. The label, meanwhile, remains very rock and roll—definitely a bit ‘Pink Floyd’. Let’s head to the dark side… I still remember the band driving past our house in their open Cadillac, escorted by the Hells Angels on Harleys (51 years ago, for heaven’s sake! Feels like yesterday…) But why am I telling you this?... Colour: red amber. Nose: very gentle and, above all, admirably compact, on madeleines and nougat. There are loads of micro-aromas behind all that, but I’ll stick to the madeleines and nougat. Mouth: oh! The molecules let loose—hints of metal, tobacco, bay leaf, a variety of honeys, oils, essences, roasted nuts, cakes and biscuits, cane sugar, praline and toffee, toasted wood, cold coffee, chicory… Not everything is perfect, but the complexity of this blend—very “Edringtonian”—makes it almost “Ellingtonian” (S., you’re fired). Finish: medium length. The grains come through a little more (aroma but without much texture), but it’s too late, we’ve already made up our mind. Comments: many of these old blends end up in Asia—here in Singapore—proof, if ever needed, that our friends have excellent taste.
SGP:650 - 89 points.

It had been a long time since we had tasted so much blended Scotch whisky.