A few more excellent rums for Christmas


December 22, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A few more excellent rums
for Christmas

It’s winter. Across the vast, frozen Alsatian landscapes, where the pristine whiteness of snow blends with the dancing shadows of frost-covered vineyards, the wind rises in a wild symphony. It howls, slips through the bare vines, whips the snowy ridges, carrying with it an ancient echo: the distant howling of wolves. Well, just kidding—the weather’s actually quite pleasant during this festive season. But that’s no excuse not to warm ourselves up with a few summery rums chosen more or less randomly. With apéritif, naturally…

Montebello 3 yo ‘Rhum Vieux Agricole’ (42%, OB, Guadeloupe, 2022)

The bottle proudly displays its Guadeloupe Geographical Indication (IG). This is one of those French distilleries we do not come across very often, but then we are but humble whisky geeks, are we not. Colour: gold. Nose: this is rather singular, with a caramelised sugar side, muscovado, and above all, it is heavily marked by jasmine and wisteria. Notes of slightly earthy honey and sweet woodruff follow. It certainly has character. Mouth: the nose carries through to the palate, particularly with jasmine tea and fresh cane juice, then candy sugar and light aniseed touches. The profile is fresh and rather unusual. Finish: of medium length, leaning more towards bitter orange with a hint of lavender and tar. Always a touch of anise. Comments: I really enjoy this unusual profile.
SGP:552 - 84 points.

Black Tot ‘Master Blender’s Reserve 2024’ (54.5%, Elixir Distillers, blended rum)

A very British blend, featuring Jamaican, Barbadian, Guyanese, and… Caroni! The 2023 edition was rather glorious, the 2022 as well, and the 2021 was quite delightful. Colour: gold. Nose: it opens with cane juice, almost like an agricole, before moving towards the oily and tarry notes typical of these islands, though softened and more restrained than in your usual Jamaican or Trinidadian examples (though those are never really ‘usual,’ are they). Barbados seems to add the sweetness and kindness (with bananas and pineapples). However, I’m unsure which country contributes those lovely roasted peanut notes. With water: little change, perhaps a drop of lapsang souchong tea. Mouth (neat): balances often shift on the palate, and that’s the case here, as liquorice, tar, and even salt take the lead this time. More demerara sugar, roasted bananas, and stranger honeys emerge. With water: it rounds out, while more stewed citrus fruits appear. Finish: of medium length, somewhat even softer. Cane juice returns in the aftertaste, joined by orange juice. Comments: very well-balanced, which seems perfectly suited to a rum for sailors, doesn’t it.
SGP:652 - 87 points.

Black Tot ‘Historic Solera’ (46.2%, Elixir Distillers, blended rum, 2024)

This is ‘aged in a sherry solera system’. It appears there are three criaderas. Colour: copper amber. Nose: I may shock a few friends, but I believe this is exactly how brandies de Jerez should express themselves. The blend clearly delivers notes of sulphur (stone), tar, and fresh rubber, yet I find it works perfectly. Also prunes, mussels, seawater, and fuel oil… It’s rather unusual, but I love it. Mouth: it’s almost like chewing on a new rubber boot, with pepper, tobacco, PX, and slightly acidic coffee—which is delightful. Finish: long, peppery, fairly smoky, with hints of tomato leaf and cassis buds. Prunes. Comments: utterly improbable, yet perfectly excellent. Boldly done, rather love it…
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Appleton 15 yo ‘Black River Casks’ (43%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2024)

A pot still and column rum, aged—or more likely re-racked—in ex-casks from their sister distillery, Wild Turkey in Lawrenceburg. We already love the straightforward Appleton ‘Signature’. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is really very beautiful, very elegant, almost discreet but with a rather evident ‘pot still’ character, orange cake, and indeed a bourbon-like side (vanilla and gentle varnish), along with lovely touches of rubber again (bicycle inner tube), mocha, and mandarins with a hint of honey. Mouth: we feared it might feel a little weak, but not at all—it’s just soft, fresh, and elegant. Jaffa cakes, honey, praline, and a touch of salted liquorice that highlights its Jamaican origin. It dips a little afterwards, due to the lower strength, but let’s not exaggerate—it holds up very well. Finish: slightly short, with roasted nuts and a hint of honeyed marmalade. Comments: superb, even if I prefer the ‘Signature’, which is purer and more direct.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Neisson ‘Zetwal Sirius’ (49.2%, OB, LMDW Foundations, Martinique, 2024)

A blend of self rums distilled in Savalle column still between 2001 and 2013. The price is very high (€2K), but once empty, the bottle will make a lovely vase. Just joking, but I absolutely a-do-red the 2023 version of this Zetwal (WF 93). As a reminder, in Creole, Zetwal = étoile = star. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is truly an aromatic bomb, packed with fresh and dried fruits, white and milk chocolate, yellow flowers, fine chardonnay (including top champagne from the Côte des Blancs), soft spices around caraway, and all things almond-related (biscuits, creams, oils, whatnot). There are countless smaller aromas—herbs, flowers, spices, citrus—that simply need a little time to unfold. In short, not a rum for savages (just kidding). Mouth: I don’t think I need to add much—this is simply one of the greatest ‘modern’ rums of the moment. Everything we found on the nose carries through to the palate, with just a little more room for citrus and woody spices. Finish: long, smooth, still on citrus and wood (cedar, oak, sandalwood). A woodier aftertaste. Comments: as our dear grandmothers used to say, the price is forgotten, but the quality remains. This new Zetwal 'Sirius' feels just a touch woodier compared to last year’s, but it’s still absolutely top-notch.
SGP:662 - 91 points.

PS: Maybe someone should have mentioned the famous Dalmore 1967 'Sirius' to them—the one that led all our English-speaking friends to crack that cheeky little joke when it was released: "Are you Sirius?" But hey, I'm just saying—at the end of the day, the quality is exceptionally high.

Rhum J.M 8 yo 2016/2024 (56.7%, OB, Martinique, LMDW Foundations, American oak, cask #150472)

It must be said, La Maison du Whisky has released an impressive collection of rums this autumn. J.M has pursued a very active cask policy for some time now, with results that seem rather convincing despite a tendency to display quite a bit of pencil shavings. The label specifies ‘single cask’, but rest assured, it is indeed a ‘fût unique’, ha. Colour: deep gold. Nose: again, it must be said, the heavily charred American oak and agricole rum work well together, almost doubling the number of ripe mangoes, equally ripe bananas, and all those exotic fruits we so love. Add manuka honey, pine and cedar wood, along with liquorice wood. With water: it softens further, with maple syrup and a lovely earthy, mentholated side. Mouth (neat): rich, spicy, and very oaky, though not in a bad way. Bold ginger and cinnamon, then Russian-style black tea. Bananas and citrus remain quietly in the background, while pine wood takes centre stage. With water: as is often the case, water steps in to restore order, putting the flavours back in their places. The woody side, which might have seemed excessive, now feels better integrated. Finish: long, softer. A bit of camphor, liquorice… and still quite a bit of cedar wood. Comments: very much in the modern style. I find this very good.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

WIRD 2 yo 2022/2024 ‘High Ester’ (59%, Planteray, Barbados, Whisky Live 2024, 300 bottles)

The West Indies Rum Distillery, by far the largest distillery in Barbados, has belonged to Cognac Ferrand since 2017. This rum is double-distilled in a pot still (a replica of an old John Dore). I’m not exactly sure what ester level we’re dealing with here, but let’s approach it without preconceptions. Colour: pale gold. Nose: definitely high-ester in style, with just the right amount of rubber boots, coal tar, cider vinegar, olives, and antiseptic. In the background, the expected overripe bananas and crushed black pepper. With water: it barely calms down, still holding onto peppery rubber notes. Mouth (neat): very powerful, with a highly peppery style that sets it apart from Jamaican high-esters, then leaning more towards a rooty profile (gentian, wild carrot) while passing through very ripe exotic fruits (bordering on ammonia—we love that). With water: it ‘scrapes’ a little now, which we also enjoy. Roots and pepper plus lemon peel. Finish: long, with a fino-like edge. Basalt, fresh walnuts, brine, varnish, and orange cake. Comments: its two years of age have never been an issue. A very good alternative to the Jamaicans and the grand-arômes from France.
SGP:562 - 86 points.

Diamond 20 yo 2003/2024 (51.6% The Roots, Guyana, bourbon cask, 174 bottles)

Ex-French Savalle column (in copper), which would suggest an ‘Uitvlugt’ origin. Colour: copper amber. Nose: this is almost entirely about olives! And God knows we love olives. Magnificent black tapenade (with anchovies, of course). With water: lovage and prunes come in to complete the picture. An amusing combination. Mouth (neat): very unusual, slightly astringent, loaded with peppered chocolate this time, with some paint-like notes over the top. With water: the water dissolves everything and brings out much gentler stewed fruits. Apple compote with liquorice, a pinch of salt, and a drop of tequila. Finish: fairly long, with a hint of turpentine. That too dissolves the paint. Mocha and very dark tea. Comments: bonus points for the originality of the profile.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Hampden 'Great House Distillery Edition 2024' (57%, OB, Jamaica)

Previous editions had been nothing short of perfect, highly emblematic of the Hampden style, transcending marques, ages, and vintages. In theory, there’s no reason why 2024 should be any different, is there? So, let’s get straight to it… Colour: straw. Nose: rather gentle but packed with all its usual attributes—fermented fruits, acetone, varnish, olives, seawater, tar, and carbon. With water: small touches of white radish and molasses join the mix. Mouth (neat): salted liquorice, sharper apple juice, lemon juice, varnish, and brine. With water: similar, with the addition of a little cane sugar and pepper. A hint of glutamate and clove. Finish: long, salty, peppery, maritime, and tarry. Comments: the perfect Christmas gift for those who love rum but haven’t yet discovered the Jamaican ‘high-ester’ style. Oh dear, it seems I’ve just made a purchase recommendation… I’m sorry. This edition feels a touch softer than the others, I believe.
SGP:463 - 89 points.

New Yarmouth 30 yo 1994/2024 (67.6%, FRC, Jamaica, 199 bottles)

Matured in Jamaica for the first 24 years, I suppose this qualifies as ‘tropical aging’. Remember FRC = Flensburg Rum Company, Flensburg being a German city that’s ‘almost in Denmark’. Will they ever forgive me for writing that? Colour: dark amber. Nose: lovage and pipe tobacco, then thyme honey, maple syrup, and old Armagnac. Hints of tar. There’s a surprisingly compact side here, but let’s not forget—67.6% ABV—a further testament to tropical aging. With water: cherry and fir resin, fig tree sap. Careful, fig tree sap is toxic on contact. Mouth (neat): cough syrup at cask strength. It stings a bit, I admit. Concentrated lemon, fresh tarmac, and extreme pepper. Quick… With water: it remains very concentrated, thick, drier, spicier, and woodier too, but still within more than acceptable limits for me. Finish: very long, dry, almost austere. Bitter chocolate, pepper, and salted liquorice. Honey and orange zest bring a touch of sweetness in the aftertaste. Comments: I love it, but it’s exactly the opposite of a ‘perfect Christmas gift for those who enjoy rum but don’t yet know the Jamaican high-ester style.’ Sorry, ite Missa est, this is probably more a ‘connoisseur’s rum’, whatever that means.
SGP:472 - 90 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far