A few more fine Cognacs


September 22, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A few more fine Cognacs

We were really pleased with the cognacs we tried last week, so we decided to have more before Whisky Live Paris next weekend. After all, Whisky Live is also Cognac Live, Rum Live, Armagnac Live, Shochu Live, Friends Live, and mind you, Daiquiri Live. Which is another story altogether – see you there if I’m still alive!

The "Ban de la Distillation" festival, which marks the start of the distillation season, will take place on the 25th and 26th of October this year, in and around Cognac. (Grand:Cognac)

ABK6 ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2023)

I believe we've gone through the entire range this year, though this XO, at a rather modest strength, had been notably absent until now. Colour: gold. Nose: lovely, very fruity, and initially quite fresh, before more honey and maple syrup step in to smooth things out, giving it a more pastry-like character. The maple syrup becomes increasingly pronounced—top-quality stuff, of course. Mouth: while the 40% ABV is a tad frustrating, it remains perfectly acceptable here, as that superb maple syrup continues to dominate, with a touch of caramel and pancake sauce (molasses and corn syrup) following closely behind. Some dark chocolate and coffee then introduce a hint of bitterness, though the fruit stays rather shy. Finish: medium length, with walnut cake and a few raisins, rounded off by a generous dollop of caramel in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps not one for the malt purists after all, but it’s certainly a decent drop, no question.
SGP:630 - 81 points.

Drouet ‘VSOP’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2022)

A classic house with a 40-hectare estate and an excellent reputation. The eaux-de-vie here are said to be between 5 and 10 years old, so we can expect a certain freshness. Colour: gold. Nose: quite the opposite of the previous one, with more personality and greener fruits (apple), even a hint of fresh rubber, which is rather enjoyable. There’s also a touch of orange marmalade. Despite the lower strength, we’re much closer to the kind of Cognac that might appeal to malt drinkers, in my opinion. Mouth: lovely tension, with fresh and stewed fruits, even some jam and liqueur (peach, apricot), and a touch of caramel but not too much. There’s also a bit of black tea, perhaps Earl Grey. Finish: a little short but fresh, without feeling immature. It becomes more drying as it goes on, which costs it a few points in my book. Comments: a pleasant little VSOP, with some malt-like qualities, though other sides are less so. We'll have to track down some more ‘upmarket’ releases at WL Paris.
SGP:551 - 80 points.

Guillaume Duluc ‘VSOP Lot 19’ (67.6%, Authentic Spirits, single cask, Grande Champagne)

Guillaume Duluc ‘VSOP Lot 19’ (67.6%, Authentic Spirits, single cask, Grande Champagne, 2024)

67%? Are they trying to assassinate some poor blogger? This could cost them dearly. As for ‘Lot 19’, we assume it's 2019 and not 1919 (pointless comment, I know). Colour: white wine. Nose: herbal, with apple and pear skins, greengages, gooseberries, a touch of vanilla, and marzipan. Seems rather good, but we’re in desperate need of water. With water: brilliant, now the skins and seeds come through, which we quite like. Proof that we’re not holding a grudge (given the ABV). Seriously, there’s also earth, hints of the first rain, and a bit of kernel (I know what you’re thinking). Mouth (neat): it burns a little, very much in the territory of ‘new make straight from the receiver’, with just a hint of vanilla. Other than that, it’s pear, pear, and more pear. Fair enough. With water: it opens up immediately, becoming slightly liquorice-like, with a faint touch of aniseed, and even a bit of pink grapefruit and orange blossom honey. Magical! Finish: long, fresh, with a hint of salinity that pairs beautifully with the liquorice. Comments: we’re used to tasting very old cognacs, and we won’t complain about that, but stumbling upon young gems like this is a joy. Just be sure to budget for extra water. Between 40% and 67%, I must admit… I still prefer 67%.
SGP:661 - 86 points.

Private Bottling ‘Lot 89’ (57.4%, Malternative Belgium for Cavavin Belval, Petite Champagne, 120 bottles, 2023)

Private Bottling ‘Lot 89’ (57.4%, Malternative Belgium for Cavavin Belval, Petite Champagne, 120 bottles, 2023)
An anonymous bouilleur de cru bottling for Luxembourg, via Malternative Belgium. Not only are the Belgians snapping up our finest cognacs—can’t blame them for that—but now the Luxembourgers are getting in on the action too. Colour: amber with red hues. Nose: some similarities with the young one we just tasted, but of course this one is much more mature, though still fresh and fruity, with marzipan, kirsch, almond, and a light touch of icing sugar and Calvados. With water: absolutely no change, so you can save your water this time, unless you just want to tame it a bit. Mouth (neat): wonderfully rustic. Ripe grapes, apple juice, sloe berries, quince brandy… this one really speaks! With water: still robust and earthy, right up my street. The ‘parlour cognacs’ can be a bit dull in comparison. Here you’ve got baked apples, roasted pears, and a whole medley of fruit eaux-de-vie, not just kirsch. Quince indeed, for example. Finish: long and still delightfully rustic. Playful sugary and medicinal notes in the aftertaste, almost Japanese in style. Comments: quite superb, and how wonderful that this cask wasn’t blended.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

Vaudon ‘Lot 75/78/80’ (54.2%, Grape of the Art, Fins Bois, 2024)

Vaudon seems to be connected with François Voyer and specialise in Fins Bois. We’ve already enjoyed two or three excellent Vaudons. Colour: dark gold. Nose: the typical apples and pears from this region (at least according to my humble experience), along with herbs, hay, herbal teas, and melon skin. With water: honey and dried fruits come in to add a bit more roundness. There are also some nice touches of beeswax, wood polish, fresh mastic, and balsa… really a lovely nose. Mouth (neat): apples and pears remain front and centre, but now we’ve got crème de menthe, liquorice, elegant old wood, cedar, and even a few tiny mushrooms. With water: it loves water, so feel free to add a generous splash. It’s like getting two bottles for the price of one! Honeyed apples and pears, tinned plums, still that charming old wood, and notes of pollen… Finish: a few touches of cappuccino, leading to a coffee-schnapps vibe. Comments: this multi-vintage is superb as well. And I assure you, it holds steady even at 25% ABV without batting an eyelid.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Famille Cabanne ‘Lot no.79’ (62.5%, Passie voor Whisky, Bons Bois, 2024)

Yes, the Dutch are in on it too. Thrilled to have a Bons Bois, and let’s hope we stumble upon more Bois Ordinaires as well, even just for fun. Colour: amber. Nose: there’s a lot of fuss around the Cognac Crus, but it’s clear that a well-crafted Bons Bois by skilled vignerons-distillers is far more exciting than some mass-produced Grandes Champagnes that’ll move you as much as the latest Oasis track. These wafts of sandalwood and overripe apples are simply sublime. With water: top-tier praline, somewhere between nougat and roasted almonds. An irresistible nose. Mouth (neat): rich, almost syrupy, like a grand Sauternes. Think apple icewine (or ice cider?) as they make in Canada, peach liqueur, rowanberry eau-de-vie… You get the idea. With water: truly a magnificent cognac. Simple and sublime, simply sublime (I sound like an ‘80s brochure, I know). Finish: long, rich, almost oily, yet with utterly wild elegance. Comments: I haven’t had time to check, but I may have tasted a great Bons Bois before, perhaps from Grosperrin, but I’m genuinely impressed here. Didn’t see this coming, honestly.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot n°71’ (54.1%, OB for Flickenschild, Petite Champagne, 2024)

And now the Germans… And those featherlight labels from VT—always giving off that "what's inside the bottle is what matters" vibe! Meanwhile, so many spirit bottles scream the opposite… but one doesn’t exclude the other, does it? Colour: amber. Nose: cocoa, hazelnut spread (indeed, Nutella), almond and hazelnut liqueurs, halva, nougat, sesame oil, milk chocolate… This one almost feels a bit indulgent, but it’s nearly impossible to resist. With water: a hint of marmalade joins the party, almost like in an old Dalmore. Mouth (neat): where there was hazelnut and chocolate on the nose, now we’ve got cooked, jammy, and fresh fruits—exotic ones, too, mixed with sultanas. Mangoes and sultanas, what a combo! There are even drops of Muscat wine. With water: it’s grand, it’s easy, almost refreshing. Okay, maybe I’m pushing it there. Finish: long and deeply fruity, with a wonderful array of fresh herbs and spices that lightly tickle your senses. Comments: this time, we must admit we saw it coming.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Tiffon ‘V.45’ (45.2%, Old Master Spirit, Petite Champagne, 2023)

And now the Australians… 60 years in a wet cellar at Tiffon’s, followed by about 20 years in a demi-john. It’s important to note that this charming baby was distilled just after the war, so it’s possible that the ‘V’ in the name stands for ‘Victory’ rather than ‘Vintage’. Just a bit of speculation... Colour: reddish amber. Nose: wonderfully classic, with peaches poached in Sauternes, apricot tarte, and perhaps a small glass of the same Sauternes on the side. I’d swear there’s a touch of botrytis here, but let’s not get too fancy. In any case, this is the perfect dessert—perhaps with a scoop of artisan vanilla ice cream? Mouth: absolutely magical freshness and fruitiness. In the world of malt whisky, this reminds me of the very old Balblairs from G&M, say, 1950s distillations. It’s dazzlingly fruity—so much so that there’s no need to list them all, they’re just ‘fresh fruits’. In the background, tiny hints of nuts, bouillon, tobacco, jams, candied fruits, and cooked wines… but that’s just the age talking. Ouah! (French equivalent of ‘wow!’) Finish: not eternal—its only tiny flaw, perhaps—but irresistibly fruity to the very end. Comments: very, very, very, very, very great Petite Champagne. The epitome of a malternative spirit.
SGP:751 - 93 points.

Dring-dring, last one, let’s make it another Bons Bois please…

Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 55 Arôme Exquis’ (41.50%, Malternative Belgium, Bons Bois, 2024)

A very early rock-and-roll Cognac, transferred to demijohns in 2010, meaning it should be around 54 years old, give or take. Remember, vintages refer to the harvest year, and they must distill within a fairly short window—they can’t sit on the wines forever. Colour: full gold. Nose: get out of here, this is ridiculously fruity, subtle, almondy, waxy—you could almost mistake it for an unpeated early 1970s Clynelish. Plum tart dusted with grated cinnamon. An unbelievable nose, with a dazzling honeyed side. Mouth: as expected, the palate doesn’t quite hit those ‘out of this world’ heights, and perhaps that’s why they transferred it to demijohns 15 years ago, as the strength was likely getting a bit low. But it’s still stunningly beautiful, full of ripe apples, wild berries, particularly dried blackberries, and dried jujubes. Finish: this is where it becomes more anecdotal. Pleasant, with dried fruits and a hint of mint, though it’s not the part you’ll remember tomorrow morning. Slightly green tea in the aftertaste. Comments: the nose alone is worth 93-94 points for me. It’s no wonder they named it ‘arôme exquis’.
SGP:661 - 90 points.

‘A la prochaine.’