A few more Secret Smokes


March 19, 2024

A few more Secret Smokes

A few Scottish blends or single malts from the last few months, supposed to be rather peaty, a bit of a tribute to their famous ancestors, Islay Mist and Black Bottle. We won't be tasting them today, as they've changed a lot since their heyday, especially Black Bottle. So let's see what we've got...

Peat at Glen Ord Maltings, 2006 (WF Archive)

Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 10 yo (40%, Master of Malt, Islay Single Malt, +/-2022)

A ¼ of it has been finished in sherry. The name alone screams 'Master of Malt' or 'Atom Brands' or 'use of weird substances' or 'Friday-night-at-the-pub idea'. Colour: straw. Nose: It's clean and highly reminiscent of Caol Ila (as one might expect), giving off plenty of fresh apple and ash, a few seaweeds, and precisely three langoustines (neither two nor four), followed by a hint of sherry's walnut. No issue: the low strength is not noticeable on the nose. Mouth: It's pleasant, light without being weak, more rounded and briny than on the nose, just losing altitude after thirty seconds. It then lingers on ashes with a touch of lemon and green pepper. Finish: rather short, briny, with a fair amount of ash. A subtle sweet note in the finish, possibly from the sherry. Comments: I quite like it; it should make a lovely summer drink, or perhaps replace the gins in cocktails. It's just a tad brief. In fact, it also reminds me a bit of a younger Laphroaig from a batch that's lighter than usual.
SGP:556 - 84 points.

Peatside 6 yo 2015/2022 (50%, Murray McDavid, The Vatting, blended malt, Madeira + Ex Islay Cask finish, 1867 bottles)

Not sure there's some peated distillate in there, could have been only a pretty wet or wetted ex-Islay cask (as, I believe, many are doing these days). Colour: straw. Nose: rather raw, a little musty and mustardy (S.!) with some burnt walnut cake, Madeira indeed, and a very light smokiness. Pretty pleasant so far. With water: hessian, virgin wool, porridge, plaster, grist, all things that we enjoy in our malt whiskies. Mouth (neat): much more 'sweet lemony peat', much more pepper and ginger too. I think you do feel that there are/were several parts. With water: feels much more like 'a peater from the continent'. A little gunpowder, leather, green peppercorns, mustard indeed.. which leads to Madeira. Finish: medium, on similar notes. Leathery aftertaste. Comments: seems that the Madeira managed to keep the upper hand. Fine unusual drop.
SGP:563 - 82 points.

Madeira?...

Kilnaughton 'Secret Islay' (48.5%, The Cooper's Choice, Madeira cask finish, cask #1154, 312 bottles, 2023)

Kilnaughton Bay lies on the road to the Oa, so close to Port Ellen. Closest active distillery would be Laphroaig then, but let's remember Ardbeg have also got a slightly timid expression called 'An Oa'. So, this could well be Lagavulin (smile). Colour: gold with apricot hues. Nose: I would not be surprised. It's a 'sweeter' nose, there are a few strawberries (remember you can sometimes smell strawberries when Port Ellen Maltings are working a full steam), a rather earthy and tarry peat, surely some muesli loaded with a lot of fruits, especially peaches and melons, then a little turmeric and paprika. Sweeter goulash. Mouth: a genuine cocktail. Said Islay malt plus some orange cordial, a hint of sweet mustard, some gentler ginger and some of that turmeric. Finish: rather long, makes you think of some kind of smoked blood orange juice. The peat is back in full form in the aftertaste, together with a little menthol. Comments: I was not sure about that Madeira idea, but the end result is excellent. Some people knowing what they were doing.
SGP:656 - 87 points.

Port Askaig 8 yo (45.8%, Elixir Distillers, 2023)

The latest batch of Port Askaig 8 yo. We rather loved 2017's (WF 86). Colour: white wine. Nose: pure fresh apple juice, ashes, seashells and very tiny bits of rubber (new rubber boots). Mouth: excellent sweeter peat, pink pepper, lemons, apples, oysters and just 'young peat smoke', which don't do much sense, we agree. Elementary in the best sense of that word. Finish: of good length, a little sweeter than expected, with hints of coconut that may imply or suggest the use of active American oak. Comments: as good as a young Islayer gets. Only the finish was a tad, say a tiny tad disconcerting.
SGP:655 - 85 points.

Elements of Islay 'Beach Bonfire' (54.5%, Elixir Distillers, blended Islay malt, 2023)

Cask bill here is new oak, refill bourbon and sherry casks. Lovely name for an Islay, we use that descriptor often. Colour: deep gold. Nose: you do feel the new oak, with some butterscotch and a bit of wood varnish, then indeed a beach bonfire burning both dried kelp and floated wood. Something medicinal too, saline (sea spray), and chalky. With water: damp tweed jacket (it's raining cats and dogs on Islay) and beach sand and pebbles at low tide. Mouth (neat): very salty arrival but citron liqueur and just limoncello are soon to join the dance. Some fudge and butterscotch again. Very good heat. With water: lemon juice, rhubarb, unripe kiwi, a bit of caramel, plus the expected walnut cake and wine from the sherry. Well, that ought to stem from the sherry. Finish: long, still pleasantly a little hot. Salted butter caramel, walnuts, a little salty and spicy peanut butter. Satay sauce (from the Taj Mahal restaurant in Bowmore, naturally). Comments: very fond of this multifaceted big boy too.
SGP:656 - 86 points.

Highland Peated Malt 19 yo 2004/2023 (55.5%, Milroy's Soho Selection, hogshead, cask #12)

The label wouldn't tell but on the website they say it is Ile of Jura – at time of writing. Milroy's are 60 years old this year, happy anniversary Milroy's! We remember that when we used to go to London in our early days, we used to go to Milroy's, The Vintage House and Berry Bros. before going anywhere else! (Buckingham, Tate, British Museum, Harrods – not Harrods). Colour: white wine. Nose: it is not a very Jura-y Jura, but let's remember that Jura has produced some astounding peaters in the past. I'm finding some crystalised citrus, rather some garden ashes (bonfire), some cigar ashes, then fresh cement, and a little lemon curd. I find it rather bright but indeed I wouldn't claim Jura is instantly recognisable. With water: the usual raw wool, clean mud, plaster and porridge. Oh and grist and a growing feeling of paraffin. Mouth (neat): really punchy, really salty and really leafy. Lots of lemon zests and bits of tart apples (the ones you wouldn't really eat). Cider apples. With water: this one too is really salty and more and more medicinal, with an 'ancient' side (old-school peater), a tiny bit of aniseed and menthol, and indeed a little horseradish and mustard that do hint at Jura. But it could also be Glenturret (if they were doing peat in 2004, not too sure) or Tobermory/Ledaig. Let's believe the website (not this one mind you). Finish: long, fresh and leafy, with much less salinity than in the Islays, for example. No, there, some saltiness in the aftertaste. Comments: just and excellent variation, with indeed some old-school aspects.
SGP:565 - 87 points.

See you very soon for more.