A few whiskies from around the world, from China to France


October 23, 2024

A few whiskies from around the world, from China to France

Many countries are becoming less and less ‘niche’, while the new Chinese malts—at least the few we've already had the chance to taste—are starting to overturn the country's reputation for spirits of this kind. Gone are the days when all we could find in China, in terms of local whisky production, was ‘Red Labial’, ‘Chivelse Royal’, or the infamous ‘Johns Daphne Tenderness Whiskey’, dressed up exactly like Jack.

Domaine des Hautes-Glaces in the French Alps (DHG)

Daiking ‘Classic Single Malt’ (40%, OB, China, bourbon cask, +/-2024)

From Pinghe county in Zhangzhou, southeastern China (Fujian). Having started distilling in 2016, Daiking has already added two more still houses. Their first single malt, powered by pure mountain water, a medal from the World Whisky Awards (of course), and Forsyths stills, was launched in 2020. This is their entry-level expression. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s quite nice, light, with notes of bread, baker’s yeast, clay, and soft honey, along with apple juice, a touch of ginger, and cinnamon. Really appreciate that it hasn’t been overly dressed up using fanciful casks. Mouth: similarly light, with barley, apple, and a bit more wood than on the nose. There are also some assorted fruit peels (melon perhaps). Finish: medium but rather pleasant. Apple and cinnamon. Comments: absolutely faultless, you’re somewhat in very good Scottish blend territory. A few more degrees of alcohol would probably do it a world of good.
SGP: 441 - 78 points.

Just ask…

Daiking ‘Distillery Select’ (43%, OB, China, single malt, bourbon cask, +/-2024)

And here’s a version with a bit more horsepower… By the way, no caramel is added to Daiking’s malts. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s very close, extremely close to the Classic. Mouth: it really feels like the same juice with a few more watts, but there’s also a touch more acidity, with green apple, lemon, and raw rhubarb. Nothing to complain about here, it’s clearly – and surprisingly – good. Certainly not a whisky for AliExpress! Finish: rather long, with lovely spices, still cinnamon and ginger, but now with a bit of turmeric as well. I could even mention ginseng, but that might just be my brain playing tricks on me. Comments: definitely not a ‘tourist’ malt, if you know what I mean. Pretty, pretty good.
SGP: 441 - 80 points.

Daiking ‘Distillery Select Green Brand’ (46%, OB, China, single malt, bourbon cask, +/-2024)

Well, would you look at that, there’s even a 46% version. If that’s truly the case, it’s quite amusing to see them offering similar whiskies at different strengths, much like the Scots used to do a long time ago… 70, 80, 100° proof, and so on. Colour: straw. Nose: the bourbon cask shows itself more here, with the usual vanilla alongside hints of banana and mango, but the fresh bread, sourdough, apple, and honey are still present. Mouth: more spice-driven, and honestly, I’m not sure it’s exactly the same juice after all. There’s more green tannin and lemon zest, but everything remains very cohesive. It’s slightly reminiscent of recent ex-US oak expressions from the tall stills of Tain (not Tain l’Hermitage, mind you). Finish: rather long, lovely, with a slight touch of varnish, more apples, green pepper, and unripe bananas. Comments: it seems to be crafted with the utmost care. I think you could fool quite a few people in a blind tasting—just need to work on the age statements.
SGP: 551 - 82 points.

We have other Daikings (please note, it's not 'Daikin'), but we will have them soon.

Goalong ‘Small Batch #5’ (48%, OB, China, 2023)

We had tried one of Hunan’s Goalong at 40% a few months ago and found it rather decent (WF 75). Colour: white wine. Nose: very subdued, with notes of tapioca, polenta, white beer, then shortbread and plain English white bread. A few faint touches of fennel or dill, but otherwise, it remains quite restrained in terms of aromas. Mouth: a bit too woody, which is a shame, but there are also pleasant hints of Williams pear. Once again, a bit of ginger and even a touch of ginseng (yes, really). Finish: long, with lemony spices. Comments: it would fit well among the crowd of new malt whiskies from all over the world, giving it a slightly ‘international’ feel. Much like the Daikings, in fact. It’s well-made with no obvious flaws.
SGP: 551 - 78 points.

Let's take a look at Korea...

Ki.One (46%, OB, Korea, virgin American oak, +/-2024)

The second Korean distillery we’ll have tried after the superb little Kimchangsoos. The distillery itself is nestled just outside Seoul. Colour: gold. Nose: with virgin oak, it’s always tricky to discern much in the way of ‘terroir’—or perhaps it’s the oak’s own terroir at play—but this lovely charred, banana-forward profile certainly hits the spot. There’s a bit of white chocolate, vanilla custard, nougat, and a medley of papayas and ripe apples too. Mouth: a tad more ‘out of the box’ (vive la différence!) with notes of blood orange, toffee apples, and a few creamy liqueurs. Let’s call it a Korean banana liqueur—should our friends ever make such a thing. Finish: medium in length, sweet and clean, showcasing classic virgin oak characteristics with those fruits lingering alongside a hint of chocolate and a subtle touch of masala. Comments: very good indeed, a bit international in style, yet again, but in the most flattering way. That’s the magic of virgin oak, I suppose.
SGP:641 - 83 points.

To the UK…

Old Bakery Whisky 8 yo (47.2%, OB, England, London Malt Whisky, finished in Cuban rum barrels, +/-2024)

A fun bottle from a distillery with infectious enthusiasm (in the best way!). They also make gin, but then again, who doesn’t these days? Colour: straw. Nose: there’s a lovely freshness here with notes of warm bread, hints of white asparagus, and tiny bananas (Cuban, naturally), followed by wafts of cornflour and greengages. The retro-style packaging feels perfectly in tune with this slightly old-school nose. You’ll find subtle rum touches in the background too (think diesel, molasses). Mouth: fuller-bodied, with a more modern twist and a touch of spice. Satay, paprika, and even a bit of brass (let’s say old trouser buttons—why not?), alongside a chalky note and cinnamon apples. There’s also a nod to North African sweet bread and amlou (a heavenly mix of Atlas honey, argan oil, and crushed almonds—one-third of each, it’s sublime). Finish: the amlou and satay sauce keep doing their thing. The aftertaste is gorgeously honeyed with a touch of mocha. Comments: there’s a slight woodiness right at the end, but overall, it has that charming, slightly artisanal feel that makes these smaller whiskies so delightful. And London, baby.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

Oh, drat, we forgot to start from little France, as we always do. Never mind, we'll finish with one of the French stars...

Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (44%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+red square)

The code suggests this is barley, distilled in 2016, with the ‘D’ seemingly linked to degrees of some sort (not entirely clear), and bottled in 2024. The red square? No clue, I might have forgotten what that means. But all of this adds a bit of charm, and I do like it when whiskies retain a sense of mystery. Colour: light gold. Nose: well, the trouble is, we’re quite smitten with Domaine des Hautes-Glaces, so perhaps we’re a tad biased. Is that a problem, doctor? This nose is simply sublime—it’s like stepping into a bakery at half four in the morning, with a glass of fine white Jura or Loire in hand. Say a glass of each. There’s also the faintest touch of Muscat and sultanas, alongside freshly baked croissants and sourdough bread. It’s a magnificent nose, with a freshness that’s utterly invigorating. Mouth: earthy, with hints of fermenting fruits, a touch of root vegetables (parsnips, perhaps?), and fruity, freshly baked bread. Lovely raisins, though I’ve no idea where they’ve come from—perhaps the casks? Finish: elegantly long, with a whisper of ash and African spices. Fenugreek and capers, maybe? Comments: absolutely top-decile among the young ‘single’ whiskies of continental Europe. Oh, and including the islands too. A high-fashion whisky—if it ages for 20 years, it’ll hit 92 points, guaranteed (if I may say so—and if any of it is left).
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Check the index of all whiskies of the world we've tasted so far