A little biofuel. I mean, grain whiskies


October 4, 2024

A little biofuel.
I mean, grain whiskies

We used to call them maltless blends, but nowadays there's a certain snobbery in favouring grain whiskies, a bit like our ancestors who would slum it in the shady parts of big cities. Admittedly, there are some good and even awesome grains, but only if they’ve spent at least 30 years in top-quality casks, ideally the very best sherry casks. But of course, I'm open to changing my mind.

North of Scotland, 1958-1980.
(clackmannanshire.scot)

North of Scotland 1964/1981 (100° proof UK, George Strachan, cask #37526, 5cl)

Aka Alloa, also home of Strahmore Malt until 1959. Closed in 1980. We tasted this some fifteen years ago, but A. it wasn’t great, B. it was from a full bottle, and C. this one’s a miniature that’s just surfaced from the cellar. And D. North of Scotland has become exceedingly rare. Colour: gold. Nose: well, it’s still not great. Supermarket coconut liqueur, wood glue, vanillin, and that’s about the extent of it. Now, when tasting from a miniature, it’s important to ensure the fill level is good, the liquid remains clear, and there’s no sign of that dreadful lacquer collectors often use to 'seal' these mini-bottles. Anyway, not great. With water: vanilla syrup, cane sugar syrup, and honestly, cheap rum. Mouth (neat): it’s alright, with vanilla and coconut, though there’s a soapy rose note lurking about. Meh. With water: more of the same. Finish: medium length, with neutral and sugary flavours. Comments: I’m not sure if North of Scotland used high multi-column stills like Dumbarton, but it likely produced something rather neutral. I reckon my 78 points in 2009 were the result of an overly generous mood.
SGP:520 - 59 points.

North British 34 yo 1989/2024 (43.7%, Liquid Treasures, bourbon barrel, 15th anniversary)

Now, let’s be clear: North British and North of Scotland are not the same thing (see, Whiskyfun does come in handy). Colour: straw. Nose: much better. Yellow flowers, gorse, dandelion, acacia honey, acacia blossoms, and freshly squeezed orange juice, followed by some very young first-flush tea, silver needles, and even a touch of fried rice. Mouth: there’s still that slightly ‘empty’ quality you get with grain whisky, but here the floral side and notes of small apples, jujubes, sorb berries, and medlars add a bit of complexity we won’t deny. There’s also a bit of tangerine in the mix. Finish: not long, but pleasantly sweet. Reminds me of Havana Club from the 1960s. Comments: what can I say, it’s no Port Ellen, but for grain whisky, it’s certainly at the top of the ladder. Or let’s say, the second rung.
SGP:630 - 82 points.

Invergordon 27 yo 1997/2024 (52.2%, Dràm Mor, refill bourbon barrel, cask #300709, 218 bottles)

I’ve always found Invergordon to have a bit more texture, perhaps even some extra richness compared to other Scottish grains, though I’ve never really dug into why. Next time I see Sweet Richard P., I’ll have to ask. Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, sunflower oil, peanut oil, toasted bread, plantain bananas, a bit of engine grease, and even a hint of artichoke… All aromas you wouldn’t typically expect in a grain whisky. With water: a bit of barbecue bacon—am I dreaming? Mouth (neat): it’s as light as a grain should be, but there’s a touch of the liveliness you’d associate with a malt. Apples, lemons. The structure is still a bit fragile, though. With water: barley and agave syrups, vanilla, and apple juice. The texture remains light, with faint touches of pineapple. Finish: rather short, sweet, and liqueur-like. Coconut. Comments: it’s a good grain, no doubt about that, but this isn’t Port Ellen either.
SGP:630 - 80 points.

Port Dundas 23 yo 2000/2024 (62.2%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 270 bottles)

I find it rather amusing that the legendary Frank McHardy, who helped transform a small, forgotten distillery in Campbeltown into perhaps the only 1er Grand Cru of Scotch, would choose to bottle grain whiskies under his name—grains being, in essence, the complete opposite of what Springbank stands for. Colour: straw. Nose: varnish and tinned peaches. It’s very soft and quite muted, despite the hefty 62.2%. With water: lemonade, 7up, and a faint chalky note. Mouth (neat): ah, here it opens up a bit more. Lemon juice, sauvignon blanc, apricot, white peach juice, sugar syrup… With water: no real change, but it’s rather nice. Apricot and peach syrup. Finish: predictably short, but sweet, cheerful, and pleasant, despite a late arrival of coconut milk. Comments: Frank McHardy is Jimmy Page for whisky lovers like me. To be honest, these grains would score around 75 points in their basic versions—that is, not carefully selected by an undisputed legend like him. But still, it’s grain whisky.
SGP:630 - 82 points.

Girvan 26 yo 1997/2024 (46.5%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 230 bottles)

I’ve always found the recent official Girvans to be rather poor and overpriced. I don’t think anyone, even in travel retail, could mistake grain for malt—or at least be willing to pay malt prices for grain. Colour: white wine. Nose: very light, but impeccably clean. Apples and sunflower oil, white chocolate, dried flowers, some twigs and roots… Mouth: pleasant, light, and very much on coconut milk and South American rum. Not particularly expressive, but rather soothing. Finish: fairly long, with nice notes of barley sugar. Sugary Easter eggs linger in the aftertaste. Comments: definitely superior to the official releases, especially compared to the rather terrifying ‘Girvan Patent Still’ from a few years back (WF 60).
SGP:730 - 81 points.

Cameronbridge 31 yo 1992/2024 (51.5%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 234 bottles)

We’ve had some good Cameronbridges, I believe, though they’re not particularly memorable. Colour: gold. Nose: ultra-light, almost absent, though that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Some hints of coconut and bark, along with a touch of anise. With water: similarly very light, almost diaphanous. Rainwater and white sugar. Mouth (neat): pleasant, with oranges and apples, plus a bit of dill and liquorice. With water: the liqueur notes come forward—orange, apple, maybe even rum liqueur—followed by barley and agave syrup. But it stays very light, almost ethereal. Finish: fairly short, very ‘grain’. Comments: the unbearable lightness of grain whisky. Seriously though, it’s quite very nice.
SGP:630 - 82 points.

Come on, let's hit harder...

Invergordon 50 yo 1972/2023 ‘Clan McBean’ (42.9%, The Whisky Barrel, cask #TWB1034, 128 bottles)

Well, it’s not as if we need to understand every last detail, but what we do know is that this is a 50-year-old Invergordon, and when it comes to grain whiskies, the old Invergordons are unquestionably the cream of the crop. Colour: gold. Nose: absolutely lovely, with a soft and precious elegance. You’ve got ripe apples, a touch of old white Burgundy (dare we say Meursault once again?), white chocolate, and those classic Werther’s Originals. No sign of any sherry, but we’ll soldier on. Mouth: everything in delicate balance here, perhaps a little fragile due to its age, but what it offers is simply delightful. There’s white chocolate again, alongside tiramisu, orange juice, coconut milk, and some lovely mirabelles. Not overly powerful but certainly not weak either. Finish: longer than expected, with an intriguing mix of cappuccino, coconut, and, would you believe, a hint of IPA beer. Comments: truly a whisky apart from the norm. In that sense, I can understand why someone might associate it with the space race, in some roundabout way.
SGP:631 - 85 points.

North British 30 yo 1993/2024 (52%, The Taste of Whisky, refill sherry butt, cask #52169, 187 bottles)

Ah, here we go with some sherry. I must say, grain whisky really does benefit from a bit of sherry cask influence (yes, I know, we do tend to go on about that). Colour: amber. Nose: hints of gunpowder, walnut skins, and spent matches... With water: fresh rubber. Mouth (neat): burnt caramel and a touch of truffle. With water: roasted chestnuts, toasted semolina, and green walnuts. Finish: long, vegetal, burnt, and quite bitter. The aftertaste is much nicer though, with notes of coconut balls and a hint of young rancio. Comments: I agree, one must know what they want when it comes to grain whisky. Either something rather harmless but not all that interesting, or something more robust, like this one, but likely with a few obvious flaws. Perhaps a bit of a wild grain, suited more to cursed poets than your everyday drammer?
SGP:372 - 78 points.

We need to stop this slightly silly session. Come on, just one more...

Cambus 34 yo 1989/2023 (58.9%, Alambic Classique, Rare & Old Selection, sherry cask, cask #23082, 169 bottles)

I'm not entirely sure we should be assigning regions to these grain whiskies—Highlands, Lowlands—it plays no real part, only adds confusion with our beloved malts. But let’s not go all crusader on this again, shall we? Colour: gold. Nose: not a great deal of depth, but there are some pleasant notes of hay and a few wild raspberries. White chocolate with little bits of raspberry, and the worst part is, they sell that at Ikea—oh, the horror! It's called 'Belöning,' what a funny name. Even dear HP wouldn't use it. With water: touches of metal (copper), herbal teas, chamomile, hawthorn, thyme... Mouth (neat): ah yes, yes indeed, this could almost pass for malt. Not a stellar malt, mind you, but at least there's some texture and backbone. Overripe apples and a bit of fermented orange juice. With water: some williams pear comes forward and takes charge. There are worse candidates. Finish: fairly short, not unpleasant. A few bits of zest. Comments: it remains a grain whisky. Even at 34 years old, even by Alambic Classique, it's still grain, but it’s good.
SGP: 430 - 81 points.

Note to self for the future: it's fine to do grain tastings from time to time, but no more than 5 at once and no more than once a quarter (the worst part is, we've still got loads left to taste).

Would you believe it, just as we thought, we had more grain whiskies in the queue. This time I promise we won't have any more for a long while.

North British 31 yo 1991/2023 (45%, Whisky Age, 1st fill barrel, 189 bottles)

Perhaps one of those first fill barrels that, in the old-fashioned way, were softened or seasoned with grain before being used for the precious malt whiskies – and then ‘forgotten’. A technique that seems rather out of vogue these days. Colour: white wine. Nose: hold on, something special here. Lovely notes of Sauvignon Blanc and white currants, with a discreet hint of coconut and touches of fennel and dill. There’s also a bit of wet chalk lingering in the background. A very pretty nose indeed, and it was likely a brilliant idea to bring this down to 45% ABV. Mouth: mullein flower liqueur and quince, then those dill notes return alongside a bit of coconut from the 1st fill cask. You really get the sense that the barrel has done its job. Finish: medium in length, leaning a bit sweeter. Some Malibu, for instance, which might not be its best feature. Comments: a tad sweet for my taste, but truly a fine old grain.
SGP:630 - 82 points.

Invergordon 36 yo 1988/2024 (48.7%, Cask 88 and Tiffany’s New York Bar Hong Kong, PX finish, 240 bottles)

Colour: light gold. Nose: lovely metallic notes, like old copper coins, and dried flowers, then a touch of PX indeed, but ‘seco’, which we adore. Some rather wonderful hints of carrots and celeriac, almost like a top-notch rémoulade, along with cedarwood, humidors, and the like. It’s all quite unusual, but very charming. Ah, Invergordon (and PX)! Mouth: perhaps a bit less ‘idiosyncratic’—we do love that word—with a certain bitterness balanced by sweeter PX and vanilla notes. There’s also a delicate slice of buttered pumpernickel, just right, along with Armagnac-soaked prunes and kirsch cherries. Finish: medium in length, with a touch of tobacco and still a bit of sweetness. It remains very enjoyable. Comments: some say that Invergordon, once it reaches a certain age, becomes a bit of a malt among grain whiskies, though I’m not sure that makes much sense.
SGP:641 - 86 points.

Girvan 26 yo 1997/2024 (57.6%, Whisky Dudes, hogshead + 1st fill amontillado, 194 bottles)

Invergordon 37 yo 1986/2023 (46%, Whisky Dudes, refill butt + 1st fill PX quarter, cask #23654A, 203 bottles)

Colour: copper gold. Nose: a similar style to be sure, but this time with a bit more incense, alongside peonies and dried flowers (including rose petals). It’s also quite earthy, like rich dark potting soil, and ends with a hint of cedarwood that evokes an ancient Buddhist temple. Time to cue up the Great Compassion mantra, aka Da Bei Zhou… “I continually adore the one who dispels all fears…” Mouth: very unusual, deeply earthy, with mushrooms, coffee liqueur, chocolate, fermenting raisins, and roots, giving it a sort of ‘meditation whisky’ vibe—whatever that might mean. Finish: long, with a fermenting quality like a dark Bière de Garde. Pure chocolate lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: really quite unusual, with that intensely earthy and somewhat spiritual side.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Back to Girvan, which is not Invergordon (well spotted, S.).

Girvan 27 yo 1996/2023 (55.1%, The Whisky Blues, hogshead, cask #37956, 301 bottles)

Colour: light gold. Nose: rather light, with notes of vanilla ice cream and a few cherries. There’s a touch of fresh wood and a hint of autumn leaves. With water: sweetened white tea, if that were ever needed, with a drizzle of honey. A little blancmange, followed by apples. Just regular apples, nothing fancy. Mouth (neat): oranges in brandy come to the rescue, while the background remains slightly grassy, with fruit peelings. With water: it turns soft, gentle, light, and very well balanced. The key point here is that there’s no overpowering coconut or vanilla bomb to speak of. Finish: medium, sweet, still on herbal tea with honey. Comments: a very good Girvan this time, though it’s still very much in the ‘grain’ camp.
SGP:630 - 84 points.

The very last grain now...

Girvan 26 yo 1997/2024 (57.6%, Whisky Dudes, hogshead + 1st fill amontillado, 194 bottles)

Ah, we do love a good Amontillado, don't we? What's rather remarkable is how the fine folks at William Grant seem to have no qualms about allowing the 'Girvan' name on indie labels, despite guarding the likes of Glenfiddich, Balvenie, Kininvie, and even Ailsa Bay with the ferocity of a pack of Malinois fuelled on nothing but champagne. Colour: gold. Nose: oh, this is lovely—there’s beeswax and a tray of fresh pollen, perhaps from rockrose. Beyond that, you get the expected notes of vanilla and a bit of desiccated coconut. With water: little hints of Dutch gin come through. Mouth (neat): ah, that Amontillado! I’d say it’s doing most of the heavy lifting here, with notes of latte, touches of gentian, tobacco, cardamom, walnut wine, and a dash of orange. With water: caraway liqueur appears, along with some myrtle liqueur too. Finish: fairly long, with that Amontillado coffee note reigning supreme, and it does so splendidly. Comments: have we perhaps found the perfect use for wine casks, finishing grain whiskies?
SGP:641 - 86 points.

Fourteen drinks in two days are way too much. I hope I haven't talked too much nonsense. Would you say so?

Check the index of all grain whiskies we've tasted so far