A little hotch-potch of blends


July 24, 2024

A little hotch-potch of blends (Everyone is blending!)

I suppose it is always interesting to be able to offer your own brand without relying too much on specific distilleries, while staying as much as possible in the world of malt, the most valued.

Cactus in Corsica, photo by Christophe A., July 2024

Scallywag ‘The Chocolate Edition’ (48%, Douglas Laing, blended malt, Port finish, 2024)

An assemblage of Speyside whiskies designed to pair with chocolate, much like malts offered to accompany cigars. Note, this has nothing to do with the use of ‘chocolate malt.’ Colour: gold. Nose: we’re greeted with a strong sense of dark, malty beer, reminiscent of Guinness, and a hint of Linzertorte, likely due to the Port influence. Quite pleasant, and it doesn’t come off as a malt with a mere layer of Port—thankfully. Mouth: the palate leans more towards wine, with clear notes of Port, black cherry, strawberries, roasted malt, and indeed, chocolate. Think along the lines of chocolates filled with orange—rather delightful. Finish: Rather long and more peppery, with flavours of redcurrant jelly and bitter chocolate. Comments: It has a bit of a premix vibe, but it's well-crafted and doesn’t clash. No screeches.
SGP:541 - 83 points.

St. Bridget’s Kirk ‘Solera Batch #2’ (48.4%, Hannah Whisky Merchants, blended malt, oloroso finish, 214 bottles, 2024)

Apparently, there's more than just Oloroso here. We really enjoyed the first batch (WF 87). Colour: gold. Nose: this isn’t too far removed from the style of Scallywag, with notes of red fruits, raspberry liqueur, and more raisins, making it fruitier and, of course, less chocolatey. In the background, the usual nuts, a touch of smoke and a maritime character without excess, hinting at Orkney. Mouth: more tense, certainly peated and lemony, slightly salty, leaning more towards Skye than Orkney on the palate. A hint of turpentine and lime that’s a bit surprising, even tequila-like, while the Oloroso doesn’t come off as hyper-mega-first fill, if you catch my drift. Finish: long and still curiously lemony, even quite acidic with grapefruit. Comments: a very lovely composition, a bit surprising here and there but that’s part of its charm. Almost makes you want to put it back in a small cask for a few more months to marry further.
SGP:564 - 85 points.

Turntable 'Track #4 – One Way or Another' (46%, OB, blended Scotch, 2024)

Blondie, of course! It’s a bit private but I remember so well when my dad used to bring back records from the States, while they were not available here yet. I particularly remember Television, Talking Heads and, naturally, Blondie. And Cherry Vanilla, but that’s another story. I'm gonna get ya, get ya, get ya, get ya… Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s light, fruity, and grainy, with vanilla and a play of orange juice, and a rather discreet malt. Banana and pear candies, cassata, and even a hint of young Cuban rum. Mouth: citrus juices, kiwi, liquorice allsorts, and small red fruits. It’s very civilised. Finish: of medium length, with a touch of fresh mint that’s quite ‘mojito’. The red fruits return, along with blood oranges at the very end. Comments: very pleasant ‘for a blend’. Refreshing for the summer, very well made.
SGP:630 - 83 points.

While we’re here…

Turntable ‘Bittersweet Symphony’ (46%, OB, blended Scotch, 2023)

Everyone thinks of The Verve, but really, it’s still the Stones. Colour: pale amber. Nose: very lovely, I find, with walnut broth, seaweed, dry and sweet sherries, cherry stem tisane, and old PX with more wood, yet without any issue. I quite like this nose. Mouth: perhaps a bit less coherent but still very pleasant, with oranges, honey, raisins, and a bit of a feeling of Malaga aged statically (without solera). Finish: the return of slightly bitter walnuts, it’s rare for an ex-sherry to not smell of walnut at all, in my humble opinion. Raisins and liquorice at the end. Comments: so, The Verve or the Stones? The Stones!
SGP:641 - 85 points.

One last little Turntable, it's impossible to resist...

Turntable 'Track #5 – Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger’ (59.1%, OB, blended Scotch, 2024)

Par mes compatriotes de Daft Punk, bien sûr! Colour: straw. Nose: more malty and even more citrusy, and undoubtedly more to my taste. Lovely citrons and mandarins, pink grapefruit, mangoes, a hint of wax, and a touch of clay... It's perfect. With water: some ripe pear notes, a sign of youth. Turns out we quite like pear. Mouth (neat): almost the same on the palate, citrus, chalk, paraffin, beeswax... With water: even more vivacious. Very nice malty character, and still waxy with a slight chalky touch. Finish: of medium length, fresh, with a smooth grain, which we always enjoy in a blend. It just loses a bit of tension (and a point, dura Lex, sed Lex). Comments: I'm rather a fan of this one.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Dad’s Dram (56%, The Whisky Exchange, blended malt, 2024)

A vatting of Highland and Speyside malts. Of course, I’m late once more, but anyway, alas my dear father has been missing for quite a few years. And he didn’t really drink much whisky (he thought Southern Comfort was whisky, which says it all). Colour: straw. Nose: very lovely notes of fresh tree bark, sesame oil, lanolin, then fruit peels and small apples from an old apple tree in an old orchard in a nearly forgotten little village (sob). With water: moving towards wet chalk and sourdough. It's a classic and very pleasant development. Mouth (neat): it's much sweeter and herbaceous at the same time. We’ll mention, once again, limoncello (where’s the bl**dy Ferrari?) then dill and lemongrass. With water: same profile, just a bit sweeter, on syrups and wildflower honey. Toffee apple. Finish: medium length but with lovely freshness. Apple and lemon, 2/3 – 1/3. Comments: one should think of their father every day (take notice, kids).
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Hogshead Import 18 yo 2005/2023 (45.5%, Hogshead Import, Blended Scotch, refill butt, 614 bottles)

Let's say it again and again, the more malt, the better. I know it's fashionable to say that this is often not the case and that these are just beliefs, but we stick to that. Colour: gold. Nose: almond croissant, a bit of milk chocolate, fudge and toffee, nougat, vanilla cream, and a touch of burnt wood... All is well, it's soft and very pleasant. Mouth: you get a bit of the old grain, with that lychee and sweet varnish side, banana cream, and a slightly light texture, but the malt seems to keep control, so it doesn't feel too diluted. A small glass of IPA and some sweeter molasses (does that exist?). Finish: not very long but sweet and gentle. Banana liqueur, apple juice, and a bit of pink pepper. Comments: a very, very good blend (top 5%), just the body is a tiny bit thin, in my humble opinion. But it's a blend...
SGP:531 - 85 points.

The Fife Blend 15 yo ‘Release #1’ (56.3%, James Eadie, blended scotch, 458 bottles, 2024)

If it’s James Eadie, they’ve likely done a significant job on the casks. There are always surprises, generally good ones. Colour: darker gold. Nose: I find the grain dominates a bit, as if it’s been boosted, with ripe bananas and guavas. Of course, we have nothing against ripe bananas and guavas. A bit of vanilla cream, almond syrup, touches of fresh wood… With water: correction, almond syrup and pistachio syrup. Killer stuff. Mouth (neat): it’s extremely unusual and frankly, it feels like rum and pisco territories. A hint of asparagus and fresh sugar cane, bitter almonds, woodruff, amaro… I think I’ve never tasted a whisky like this, but it’s also extremely entertaining. With water: Spanish liqueurs (I know what I’m trying to say), curaçao and ‘parfait amour’, coconut milk and probably a slightly light backbone, but compensated by all these exotic flavours. Finish: not very long but that’s the grain’s fault. Comments: a bit crazy, extroverted, impressive, deviant, seductive. Clearly a rum side. How to score this…
SGP:730 – 83 points (but don’t take that too seriously).

Alright, a break...

Johnnie Walker ‘Red Label’ (40%, OB, blend, UK, +/-2024)

Johnnie Walker ‘Red Label’ (40%, OB, blend, +/-2024)

Last tasting, 2018, not bad at all (WF 78). Ah, a bottle of Johnnie Walker Red Label procured from Carrefour at a rather tempting €15.99, while they recommend this enticing cocktail called the ‘Johnnie Ginger’: fill a glass with ice, add 25 millilitres of Johnnie Walker Red Label, a squeeze of lemon juice, and top it off with ginger ale, garnished with whatever you've got handy in the kitchen (do be cautious about what goes into your kitchen, mind you!). But let’s taste it au naturel, shall we? These brands pushing cocktails—might they be hinting that their whiskies aren’t good enough when enjoyed neat? Colour: Gold. Nose: there’s a touch of Clynelish waxiness, I’d say, along with fresh bread and barley syrup. Think panettone, focaccia, croissants, and pear peelings... quite pleasing! Mouth: well, yes, quite agreeable, and I’d even fancy a 100-proof version if one exists (my knowledge of the full Johnnie Walker range is a bit rusty, I must admit). Lovely little salty-smoky tension, sweet ‘industrial’ apple juice, a hint of liquorice and anise, a slight earthy note, followed by growing salinity. Finish: not even that short. But, of course, as with all entry-level blends, the finish is its Achilles' heel, drifting towards a cardboardy note—though not overly so. A hint of pear liqueur. Comments: honestly, I’m not sure if I’ve landed a particularly stellar batch (this is actually a bottle I purchased incognito in Scotland with my modest savings), but I really do like it.
SGP:652 - 79 points.

Speyside Blended Malt 28 yo 1994/2022 (48.4%, The Whisky Blues and The Whisky Wave, cask #5138, hogshead, 235 bottles)

The brand 'The Whisky Blues' has truly become a hallmark of quality across all spirits. Yet, with this type of blended malt, one must imagine that it is, in reality, a single malt. Now, we just need to figure out which one... Colour: gold. Nose: fresh bread, ripe banana, muesli, mirabelles, quinces, then candied lemons. It’s perfectly precise, impeccably delineated, and leans towards cédrat liqueur. This ultimate simplicity, very Balvenie-esque, is just fabulous after 28 years. Tiny touches of cactus. Mouth: well, of course. Green apple, stewed rhubarb, banana cake, mirabelle tarte, quince jelly, slightly underripe mango… It’s quite taut, it’s perfect. Finish: quite long, more on little lemon sweets. Comments: taut indeed and admirable. And it goes down so smoothly. It’s crazy that all these casks ended up on the market ‘like this’.
SGP:651 - 89 points.

All right, a last one, an historical one…

Usher’s Old Vatted Glenlivet (J.&G. Stewart ltd., Ditta Modena Import, Italy, +/-1955)

Of course, the label boasts all these certificates of purity issued by more or less official laboratories, which was essential to distinguish it from the somewhat toxic moonshine produced here and there before the war. This is undoubtedly pre-WW2 distillate, bottled in 1952 or just after (note the 'appointment to H.M the Queen' on the label). Let's remember that Usher’s OVG was the seminal blend and that this isn’t the more common ‘Green Stripe’. Colour: gold, clear. Nose: naturally, there’s OBE, translating here into old metal (rusty old tools) and both dried meats and matured ham (jabugo). This lends a reinforced broth quality with honey, white wine, and… whisky. Add old herbal and citrus liqueurs, essentially everything you might find in grandad’s old sideboard. Mouth: yes, it’s alive and retains all its virtues! Lots of herbaceous peat heading towards pine liqueur, well-salted onion soup, old Chartreuse, mead, very old sweet sherry, salted beef marrow… It’s very impressive. Finish: long, even more saline, more on broths and mead. Comments: what a shame we can't precisely determine what was already present in the '50s and what’s the result of bottle ageing, though we do have a pretty good idea, don’t we? A bottle that was particularly splendid, many old blends are somewhat tired.
SGP:572 - 90 points.

By the way, we have a tasting of a dozen old blends distilled before WWII in the pipeline. We had planned to publish it during the celebrations of the 80th anniversary of the Allied landing in Normandy, but you know how it is, we don't always get to do what we want when we're just small enthusiasts.

(Thank you mucho, Max)