A new little tour among the whiskies of the world


February 19, 2024

	A new little tour among the whiskies of the world
	This time we will start from our beloved Alsace, specifically from Obernai, and perhaps we will even stay in France today, let's see where our steps and our tulip glass will take us...

Lehmann 7 yo 'Elsass Whisky Origine' (40%, OB, France, +/-2023)

Entirely aged in Bordeaux white wine barrels. You might remember that in Alsace, oak casks are very rarely used for white wines, except for very large tuns, so if one wants white wine barrels, one must look in other regions. In any case, this malt benefits from the Alsace Protected Geographical Indication (milling-mashing-fermentation-distillation-aging-reduction done in Alsace, malted barley only, no GMO, no added enzymes, pot still or column fitted with no more than 3 plates, no continuous distillation, no heating of the warehouses, oak for the first three years but other woods may then be used, no colouring, no age statement under 6 years). Phew. Colour: gold. Nose: these Alsatians have made very good progress over the years and it shows. Lovely notes of custard, shortbread, acacia and honeysuckle blossoms, a touch of aniseed (right, anis bredala), some williams pears and mirabelles… All is fine here, really. A touch of porridge – or some kind of Alsatian sourbread, what we call süweckla or subrot. No choucroute though. Mouth: I find it really good, despite an oaky side that may be a tad loud in this context of a lightish distillate reduced to 40% vol. But there's a very pleasant sweetness, while mirabelles and pears are back, with always a floral side, some acacia flower fritters (perhaps) and a touch of sweet hopped beer, IPA-style. A little fudge. No obvious wineyness at all. Finish: short but rather full, not too oaky, with some honey and two or three roasted peanuts. Comments: I have hardly touched some of the numerous Alsatian whiskies for a good fifteen years or only occasionally; it's true that the first ones were generally disappointing. But as I was saying, it seems that progress has been made, and perhaps does the GI deserve thanks for that, by the way. Hoppla.
SGP:541 - 85 points.

To the Charente… sort of…

Hawkins 8 yo 'Cognac Cask Finish' (40%, OB, blended whisky, Albania, +/-2023)

Indeed, Albanian whisky made out of maize, wheat and 15% malted barley, then shipped, finished and bottled in the Charente, France, by cognac makers Famille Cabanne (we've had some stellar Cabanne recently). How funny is that? I believe it's the first time I'm trying any Albanian whisky. I mean, knowingly. Colour: light gold. Nose: a little medicinal alcohol, a few raisins, some bison vodka. Mouth: a little better but this remains virtually empty, ethanoly, with just some vanillin, sugar syrup and a small feeling of boisé. Finish: short, rather on sweet apples. Comments: we've seen and tasted much worse and it's still not as empty as the head of an employee of the French railway company (SNCF, currently on strike, of course), but I would say that there is as much difference between this little Hawkins and the superb Famille Cabanne Lot 68 Cognac for The Whisky Jury that we tasted in December as there is between a moderate hit by the Fast Food Rockers and a Bach oratorio conducted by Nikolaus Harnoncourt.
SGP:520 - 40 points.

InQuota 2019/2023 'Dolomiti Spruce Cask Finish' (47.6%, OB, Villa de Varda, Italy, 1678 bottles)

We're now in the Alpine region of Trentino Alto Adige, a place where they've always been distilling fruit, herbs and roots. This time it is malt whisky, finished in local spruce, which sure is unusual - and a no-no in Scotland. Colour: gold. Nose: a curious blend of custard and overripe apples with some rather delicate saps and resins, as well as various aromatic honeys such as thyme or chestnut. I have to confess that a me mi piace, it is absolutely not a resin bomb. Mouth: sweet, firm, creamy, with woody notes that rather remind me of amburana, and perhaps even of mizunara oak. It's been well controlled, with some almonds and quinces, then lemons and lime, probably a little eucalyptus (could be the spruce as well)… What is sure is that it is not 'totally weird', on the contrary. Finish: rather long, with an oily texture, indeed touches of fir bud liqueur, some verbena perhaps… Really nice. Comments: some true innovation by grappa makers here and at least it is all local.
SGP:561 - 84 points.

Devoille (40%, OB, France, single malt, +/-2023)

We're in Fougerolles this time, which one of the historic towns of French distilling. It is in the Haute-Marne, not that far from Alsace. Please note that this one had been finished in Williams pear eau-de-vie casks. Bah, there's no new whisky without a finishing anyway. Colour: gold. Nose: pears, verbena again, I was about to add spruce wood (no, different glass, don't worry) and then lorryloads of genepy and woodruff. Great fun, even if it wouldn't quite smell of malt whisky at this point. Mouth: same feeling, not exactly whisky, rather a blend of traditional liqueurs and cordials. Pine again, herbs, pears indeed, fresh mint, chartreuse… All that remains dry though, you do not feel any proper sugariness. Finish: medium, refreshing, mentholy, herbal. Comments: did they use spruce too? It's a lovely spirit, it's just not very 'whisky'.
SGP:561 - 84 points.

Galâad 2018/2023 'Origin' (44.5%, OB, France, Brittany)

This single malt stems from the Mine d'Or distillery, which is located on the edge of the Brocéliande forest in the heart of Brittany. It is a magnificent place inhabited by druids, lost knights and inebriated tourists. And now also by distillers. Colour: light gold. Nose: it's very pleasant to stumble upon a genuine malt whisky that's displaying bread, cake, barley, shortbread, nougat, apples and oranges, tarte tatin and cereals. No wine and no crazy woods, this is awesomely classic. Mouth: very good, starting rather citrusy, slightly salty (however far is the ocean), with some honey, cider and mead chiming in then, small candied lemons, apples of all kinds… Body and mouthfeel are perfect. Finish: good length, good orange cake, great lemons and a welcome tiny salty touch. Comments: I had never heard of Mine d'Or but in my view it's already close to the good Glann ar Mors or Armoriks. I need to find my helmet and my armour to go back for a stroll in Brittany, Sire Galahad.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

P&M 'Single Corn' (42%, OB, France, Corsica, +/-2023)

A new expression made out of organic maize. P&M means Pietra (brewers) & Mavela (distillers). The brand is already well-established; it's true that it has been a long while since we savoured our last P&M, but it has been equally long since we last went sunbathing in Corsica. Colour: gold. Nose: light, cakey, mellow, with some nougat and some sweet popcorn. Typical maize/corn whisky, well made here. Mouth: sweet, good, a tad woody, with a little coconut, marshmallows, corn syrup and vanilla cake. Finger biscuits (champagne biscuits). Finish: shortish but nicely sweet, with a cereally aftertaste, sadly a notch ethanoly in the end. Comments: I find it very good for maize. Did they use spinning barrels?
SGP:630 - 80 points.

Indeed some French winemakers are trying to use 'dancing' or 'spinning' barrels, which is supposed to let the wines mature and grow faster. But shh… do not tell our whisky-distilling friends about that.

Last one please…

Kornog 12 yo 2011/2023 'Une Île en Terre' (58.2%, La Maison du Whisky, Ex Libris, France, Brittany, 1st-fill bourbon)

More Yvon Le Men inspired whisky. The whisky is rather expensive and prestigiously rare. In some rare cases these things go together. Oh and yes, Brittany again, baby. The name of the distillery itself has changed from Glann ar Mor to Celtic Whisky Distillerie. Don't ask. Colour: gold. Nose: top of France if not top of Europe (together with DHG). Total camphor, burning eucalyptus, sea spray, rubber boots, green apples, peat smoke, yuzu… With water: a varnish factory, an old scuba diving suit, gherkins and samphires, some oysters, lemons... Mouth (neat): exceptional density and tightness. Cuts you into halves of exactly the same sizes, as we sometimes say (hey that wouldn't be halves if the sizes were different, S.) Grapefruit leading the pack, then all what you'd expect from a coastal peater. With water: let me first apologise pre-emptively, and then claim that you would believe this was some 30 yo Caol Ila. Finish: not excessively long but ueber-maritime, with a perfect peat + rubber + grapefruit combination. Comments: forgot to mention crabs and whelks. And perhaps manzanilla. Dazzling Kornog.
SGP:556 - 91 points.