A new quartet from Tullibardine


July 2, 2024

A new quartet from Tullibardine (plus last minute bonus)

We’d like to find a truly clean one that has not met with a lot of fresh oak and/or wines. Like refill… That said, we have a fondness for Tullibardine, while it is not easy when you're at the very end of the alphabet... And we don't say this just because the distillery has been belonging to the French group Picard since 2011. (picture Westgate Wine)

Tullibardine 18 yo 2005 (43%, OB, +/-2024)

We’ve never tried this official 18-year-old until now. The bottle is elegant and attractive, and the price is relatively reasonable. It’s a mix of first-fill bourbon and ex-sherry, so perhaps it’s not quite at the pinnacle of distillate-driven malts, but let’s see. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a pronounced porridge note, wort, beer, sourdough, country bread, a touch of mild mustard, then some gravel and cement, followed by ripe bananas, apples, and a slight muscat note. It’s very much ‘Tullibardine’. Mouth: really lovely, with a return of the mustard and a hint of leather, but also oranges and other citrus fruits. There’s a bit of cumin, pepper, muesli, porridge again, then a lemony hint that ties everything together nicely. Also a touch of ginger and turmeric. The texture is pleasantly oily. Let’s say somewhat oily. Finish: not very long but still lovely, this time with a slight amontillado touch. Comments: it’s a unique malt but very well balanced, we like it a lot.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

This one could be 'clean'...

Tullibardine 12 yo 2010/2023 (50%, Claxton’s Exploration Series, bourbon hogshead)

We're not losing our way with this series (so well done, S., great form!) Colour: White wine, which is confirmed. Nose: One can indeed find that mustardy hint and that rustic country bread, even pumpernickel, with the rest mingling between cider apples, quinces, green bananas, fresh figs, and a few wildflowers. It's a delightful juice. With water: a return to porridge with bits of grapefruit. A croissant or two with butter (thankfully no icing sugar or almonds) complete the profile. Mouth (neat): Quite unique this time, with a touch of mustard, heaps of raw cane sugar, lemon liqueur, a bit of ginseng, and a hint of very malty brown beer. With water: malt, sweet apples, a touch of pepper, and a few coriander seeds... Finish: Medium length, with no notable changes except it becomes sweeter. There's a coastal note in the aftertaste, almost reminiscent of oysters. Go on, have a little oyster. Comments: Another very lovely one. Let's say it, Tullibardine has immensely improved over the last fifteen or twenty years.
SGP: 651 - 85 points.

Tullibardine 17 yo 2005/2023 (52.9%, Acla Selection, Switzerland, hogshead, cask #772, 120 bottles)

Our friends at Acla da Fans had already bestowed upon us a magnificent Tullibardine 32-year-old from 1989 two years ago (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: more watts, more wet chalk, more candied citrus, quince jelly, apricot jam, but also touches of spent matches and even burnt powder. However, this isn't off-putting at all, quite the opposite. The traditional mustardy notes are very much present as well. With water: whiffs of horse saddle, mustard, and even a hint of stable. Quite enjoyable. Mouth (neat): oh, mango in Tullibardine? Along with mustard, nutmeg, leather, and pepper? With water: it nearly shifts to fruit jam, apricots, quinces, apples, with just a touch of pepper. Finish: long, more peppery, with a sooty side as well. Bitter walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: there's always something happening in a Tullibardine.
SGP:652 - 86 points.

Tullibardine 15 yo 2008/2023 (58.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Kirsch exclusive, refill bourbon barrel, cask #21603506, 263 bottles)

Imagine that this is the first Tullibardine by G&M we’re tasting! Colour: white wine. Nose: it's more old-fashioned, with a much waxier side, paraffin, linseed oil, celeriac, turnips, even a bit of black garlic and mustard (that was expected), before the cider apples take over. It's intriguing. With water: who had the idea to mix Barbour grease with lime juice? Mouth (neat): we’re having a lot of fun. Pastis, dill, still those tart apples, grapefruit... It has a remarkably tense side, almost heading towards absinthe, or at least wormwood. With water: again, a little salty and mustardy note, some ash, capers, soot, lemon zest, oils, and fats... There's really nothing quite like it. Finish: long, tense, waxy, rustic. Lemon peel in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s robust and rustic. I like it a lot, especially since we’re quite rustic too at Château WF.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Very pleased with these 'Tullies'. Wait wait wait, this baby just in as we speak… An old one!

Tullibardine 30 yo 1991/2021 (43.1%, GourmetPool, Germany, bourbon hogshead, cask #375, 190 bottles)

We tasted a superb Ardbeg by GourmetPool last year, fantastic (WF93). But now it's Tullibardine, and although Tullibardine can be very impressive, as we have just seen, it is not Ardbeg (you say so, S.!) Colour: pale white wine, quite astonishing for a whisky of this age. Nose: I find it exceedingly typical with an abundance of soot and ashes, a hint of charred wood, even charcoal, followed by clear notes of old manzanilla en rama. Plenty of green walnuts, bitter oranges, paraffin, and a touch of grilled aubergines, then rather bitter and acidic coffee, perhaps Ethiopian mocha, which I adore. Possibly a third or fourth fill cask, allowing the distillate to fully express itself. Nearly forgot, there are those little mustard and caper notes, very distinctive. Mouth: Again, very typical with a lovely bitterness, always a charred and mustardy side, then leather and tobacco. It becomes a bit chalky, with grapefruit juice and that famous manzanilla keeping everything on track. I find this style ultra-authentic and thus very impressive. The low alcohol content is never an issue. Finish: medium length but remarkably powerful, perhaps a manzanilla from Equipo Navazos or Bodegas Tradición? Aftertaste of mustard, green walnuts, and seawater. Comments: It's hard to be more precise and respectful of the distillate. No cardboardy or musty notes (just saying).
SGP:372 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Tullibardine we've tasted so far