A small box full of high-quality Irish whiskies


September 24, 2024

A small box full of high-quality Irish whiskies

We'll start with a Jameson, because last time, the basic Jameson seemed as empty as an old coconut to us, and because it's only fair to give it another chance (even though Jameson probably has absolutely nothing to do with WF).

New Boann Distillery (Boann)

Jameson ‘Caskmates IPA Edition’ (40%, OB, Irish blend, finished in craft beer barrels, +/-2024)

One would expect a few aromas in here, no? Presumably, the casks were prepared with IPA (from Franciscan Well in Cork), rather than used for actual ageing of the beer. Not too sure… Colour: gold. Nose: not exactly explosive, but indeed, there are considerably more aromas than in the standard Jameson. Some hay, a little touch of freshly cut grass, then tangerines (the IPA influence, perhaps?), apples, and a faint hint of potpourri and chamomile. Still, it remains fairly light. Mouth: light again, but not unpleasant. Once more, a little tangerine, along with herbal teas, rosehip, and possibly a touch of citrusy hops (Citra and the like), with a smidgen of ginger. Finish: short, light, but clean. A hint of lemon liqueur. Comments: this is clearly a step above the rather skeletal regular Jameson (WF 60). Cheers to beer!
SGP: 431 - 76 points.

We're staying at Middleton.

Green Spot ‘Finished in Château Léoville Barton’ (46%, OB, Irish single pot still, 2023)

‘Celebrating a shared Irish heritage,’ it proudly states, and indeed, the ‘Barton’ of Barton & Guestier hailed from Ireland in… 1725. The label also mentions that this expression ‘was finished in casks previously filled with wine from the famed Château Léoville Barton,’ which, of course, could mean a number of things, but let’s press on. Colour: gold. Nose: initially, we're in similar territory to Jameson IPA, though this one’s a touch more robust. There’s little in the way of aromas that would evoke the illustrious Second Growth of Saint-Julien, though that's no bad thing, as we’re treated to lovely notes of ripe apples, plums, quince, and yellow melon. There's also that characteristic hint of copper coins, something often found in these Irish whiskeys. A few freshly bloomed peonies too, which is rather charming. Mouth: very nice, firmer than expected, with a true Irish character. There’s a little clafoutis and Linzertorte in there, followed by a return of hay, a bit of cinnamon (in a cake-like way), and some greenish bay leaf. Finish: of medium length, with orange zest, a touch more bay leaf, and even a hint of green pepper—could that be the Cabernet influence? Then, a bit of marzipan and orange cake to round things off. Comments: I really do like this one, and it’s not overly wine-influenced, which is a relief. That said, I think I prefer the regular Green Spot at 40% (WF 85) by a small margin.
SGP: 551 – 84 points.

Let's stay a little longer at Midleton...

Redbreast 27 yo ‘Batch 5’ (54.6%, OB, Irish single pot still, 2024)

The latest release, ‘graced’ with a touch of Ruby Port, but I’ve no doubt that won’t detract from the splendour you’d expect from a 27-year-old Redbreast. Colour: gold with a hint of apricot. Nose: a generous waft of old copper right from the start, as if you were nosing an antique still (and not one polished to a shine). Then comes peony and oleander – clearly showing its kinship with Green Spot – along with, of course, the famed mango, pink grapefruit, honey, and ripe cherries. Truly delightful on the nose. With water: just a whisper of coconut, posh face cream, and prickly pear... Mouth (neat): an absolute stunner, reminiscent of ancient single malts from a very old distillery much further north. A massive basket of tropical fruits drenched in honey, with a drizzle of caramel to finish. That’s about it. With water: vineyard peaches appear, but do go easy on the water, it’s not the strongest swimmer. Finish: not the longest, but very, very fruity, still on mango and vineyard peaches, and wonderfully free of any rough edges. Comments: A magnificent Redbreast, not as ‘red’ as you might think despite the Ruby.
SGP:641 - 90 points.

Boann ‘Madeira Cask’ (47%, OB, Irish single pot still, 2024)

A brand-new distillery, and their first whisky, which I believe was launched at the Whisky Show in London. It’s still rather curious how every new whisky seems to get the wine treatment these days, but if it helps the vintners, so be it. Besides, Madeira, like sherry, isn’t quite the same as wine, is it? It’s fortified wine, after all. The distillery sits on the east coast, neatly between Dundalk to the north and Dublin to the south. Colour: straw. Nose: lovely brioche and panettone notes, so think raisins and orange blossom, with a handful of yellow flowers, mirabelle plums, and a touch of pear. A bit of grist in the background, hinting at its youth. It’s charming, natural, and well-balanced. Perhaps a couple of walnuts, likely from Madeira. I mean from the Madeira cask, of course. Mouth: I like it a lot – orange juice, cassata, Christstollen, apple juice, with a dash of spiced honey (caraway, star anise), and that’s that. Finish: medium length, balanced, with a hint of sweet bread, barley, and a very subtle rye and pepper note in the background. Comments: definitely not one of those new whiskies thrown together without care, ‘with a trowel’ as we say in French, if you catch my drift. Certainly a success.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Waterford is back on WF!

Waterford ‘Heritage Goldthorpe’ (50%, OB, Irish single malt, 6,500 bottles, 2024)

Well, we’re moving from single farms/estates to single varietals, which is rather intriguing. Goldthorpe is a rare centennial variety, reintroduced by Waterford in collaboration with the Irish Ministry of Agriculture, apparently starting from just a single small packet of seeds. There’s a delightful Jurassic Park vibe to the whole thing, though presumably with far less danger involved. Let’s see if the fracas of time can be felt in the glass… Colour: white wine. Nose: hard to pin down, should’ve sampled the new make first. It comes across as fairly oily, with a lovely citric profile, hints of chives, dill, lemon-mint, then some green melon and even a touch of Petit Manseng. With water: more melon and lemon, a bit of damp earth. Mouth (neat): starts off both citric and oily, then quickly ramps up into a bold, herbal character with an almost mezcal-like quality, though without the smoke. It scrapes the palate a bit, but in the most pleasant way! With water: it softens, as one would expect. Finish: long, increasingly lemony—absolutely delightful. Comments: it feels a bit strange to sip on such a historical – and splendid - whisky as though it were just any other dram. Surely, this deserves at least a lecture, if not an entire seminar, delivered by some wild-haired, veteran university professors. Still, we absolutely love it—it’s cutting-edge… History.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

People often ask me what they should collect. Well, here's an idea: whiskies distilled from ancient grain varieties, such as Bere, Chevalier, Golden Promise, Hunter, or even Goldthorpe barley! And then, of course, there's biodynamic whisky...

Waterford ‘Biodynamic Cuvée Luna’ (50%, OB, Irish single malt, 2024)

An intriguing blend from three farms practising biodynamics. We had a soft spot for the first release back in 2021, Luna 1.1 (WF90). I know some biodynamic winemakers in Alsace who swear you can see the wine moving in the barrels with the phases of the moon. But let’s taste this new Luna without consulting any anthroposophical calendar to check if it’s the ideal moment… Colour: white wine. Nose: absolutely pristine, like a barely cooled fruit-studded brioche, paired with a delicate touch of soft spices. I find this precise simplicity quite stunning. With water: a hint of Williams pear emerges. Mouth (neat): quite different from the nose, much fruitier, with a light caramelised edge and even a bit of smoke (heavily toasted wood). Very good. With water: a maritime touch appears, a bit of vanilla, and perhaps a small glass of manzanilla (nuts, mustard, curry). Finish: carries on in the same vein, with just a hint of apples in the aftertaste. Comments: no point, nor even possible, to say whether this Luna or the Heritage is superior. I suppose the next step is to grow Goldthorpe barley biodynamically.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

I'd also like to try a Dingle. We have quite a few that are finished in alien casks, so that will be for later. Fortunately, we also have an ex-bourbon one for Kirsch Import.

Dingle 2015/2024 (59.2%, OB, for Kirsch Import, Irish single malt, bourbon, 264 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: it opens with a definite triple-IPA vibe, bursting with citrus, fennel, elderflower, and a curious note of young Swiss cheese (Fribourg, perhaps). There's also a slight whiff of gym socks, or perhaps that post-rugby third-half atmosphere that we’ll need to work through. Let’s see how it evolves. With water: no change, really, maybe even heading a bit towards Parmesan territory. Mouth (neat): powerful, earthy, and brimming with lemony zest, borderline raw tequila straight from the still. It's unlike any other malt, truly unique. If I were Angus, I’d quote Disraeli here, but alas, I’m not. With water: ah, now we’re talking! Bright lemons, rhubarb, celeriac, and perhaps a touch of agave, with a cheeky nibble of Gruyère making an appearance. Finish: still a bit mad, but for the seasoned taster, it’s a real charmer. Or so I believe. Elderflower pops back in the aftertaste (St Germain, Hugo, that sort of thing). Comments: best enjoyed alongside a hearty fondue, be it Savoyard or Swiss. Or why not just pour it straight into your caquelon? Honestly, this one defies scoring, so do take all of this with a pinch of salt.
SGP:672 - 85 points.

Probably the exact opposite…

Bushmills 20 yo 2002/2023 (54%, The Whisky Blues, Irish single malt, cask #11344, 212 bottles)

The label appears to feature Irish distillers doing some pub crawling on a Friday evening, though it might just as well depict some Asian birds, perhaps dancing cranes? Colour: white wine. Nose: an astonishingly pure and simple Bushmills. Bark, bananas, and apples. That’s it, and yet, it’s everything. With water: a touch of Irish meadow honey emerges. Mouth (neat): indeed, it starts out as a crisp, crystalline whisky, but soon explodes into that unmistakably fruity profile. Papayas, mangos, bananas, blackberries, guavas, buttered pears, followed by a handful of liquorice allsorts. You’ll notice I haven’t yet mentioned passion fruit or citrus. For now. With water: well, still no passion fruit, but it becomes a touch rounder, almost heading towards agricole rum. Finish: long and leaning even more into that agricole rum profile. Well, I never! Honey and vanilla linger on the aftertaste. Comments: joking aside, this is stunning, even if it’s a bit ‘wham-bam’, as Bushmills can be.
SGP:740 - 89 points.

We'll double-check that...

The Lime Tree 20 yo 2003/2024 (52%, The Whisky Cask Company, Tree of Life, bourbon, 205 bottles)

Back to Switzerland with this release from TWCC, which we’re optimistic about based solely on past experiences with the brand (what?). Let’s see if there’s any reason this wouldn’t be Bushmills. Colour: white wine. Nose: I fear it’s nearly identical to the previous dram, though a touch earthier, with new notes of peanut butter and sesame oil. With water: immense. Fruits, peanuts, and a touch of putty. There’s your summary. Mouth (neat): this time the citrus takes the lead and refuses to let go. Grapefruits, lime, yuzu, all drizzled with honey. Splendid. With water: peaches—stewed, in syrup, in liqueur, and eau-de-vie (watch out for that prussic acid). Finish: very fruity, honeyed, easy-going, and fresh. Comments: careful, this Swiss beauty is prone to some serious evaporation. You know what I mean, don’t you?
SGP:751 - 91 points.

I think one of the most difficult things for an inattentive taster to do is to distinguish, in a blind tasting, between a Bushmills and a Cooley of the same age and from the same cask.

Cooley 23 yo 2001/2024 (55.2%, Liquid Treasures for The Antelope Macau, refill barrel, cask #144972, 265 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, yes, it’s so very close! Perhaps a touch oilier and more malty than a Bushmills, but really, there are fewer differences here than between a Mercedes-Benz from 20 years ago and a Lexus from 15. With water: it diverges a bit more, becoming tauter, livelier, almost sharp on the nose. Quite delightful, indeed. Mouth (neat): similar impressions – the Cooley is a touch zippier, more robust, with a bit more lemony zing, though naturally the cask plays its part. With water: it slices right through you. Concentrated lemon juice meets agave syrup. Finish: now superbly taut, herbaceous – you could nearly enjoy it with oysters. Comments: nonsense I’ve been telling you, really. Both whiskeys are magnificent, but in the end, they’re rather different.
SGP:561 - 89 points.

Of course, we're starting to exaggerate, but "exaggeration" is one of my favourite words in the British vocabulary. Come on, let's keep going.

Irish Diamonds 21 yo 2002/2023 ‘Small Batch No.12’ (56.4%, Alambic Classique, sherry cask, cask #23081, 252 bottles)

Well then, we’re here at last, aren’t we? The big question—Cooley or Bushmills? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s gentler, honeyed, and while it should hail from Northern Ireland, there’s no guarantee, naturally. Notes of banana jam, maple syrup, and wonderfully ripe papaya and guava, followed by something more grounded—broken roots, branches, a touch of orgeat and pistachio syrup... truth be told, we’re a bit lost in the best way. With water: is that cane juice? Really? And a touch of rolling tobacco too? Mouth (neat): rich and fruity, though there’s a caramelised edge with walnut cake and a bit of kougelhopf—ah, that’s the sherry speaking. With water: walnut liqueur, autumn leaves, more tobacco… sherry again. Finish: sherry all the way. Lovely length with a bittersweet orange note, ending on chocolate. Comments: a proper self-sabotage situation—how on earth can one tell Cooley from Bushmills at this age, especially with all that sherry influence? That said, it’s excellent.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Alright, one last one...

Teeling 13 yo 2008/2022 (57.8%, OB for Passion for Whisky, single malt Irish whiskey, PX finish, cask #29639, 276 bottles)

I can’t quite remember if this vintage hails from Cooley or Teeling—utterly shameful, perhaps I should just start a gin blog instead. Colour: amber. Nose: sherry takes the lead here, with thick notes of chocolate, Ovaltine, walnut liqueur, devilled sauce, and pipe tobacco. It’s a bit jarring after the lovely bourbon-inflected whiskies we’ve been enjoying today. With water: glue and varnish appear, and it turns bone dry, which is rather unusual for PX, typically thought of as ‘dulce’. Mouth (neat): somewhere between a young Armagnac, walnut wine, a vintage Maury, and double-distilled bitter orange liqueur. It practically assaults the gums, and I’m barely exaggerating. With water: caramel, toffee, Japanese instant noodles, and some quite mad molasses. Finish: very long, very thick, and really quite extreme. Comments: utterly a love-it-or-hate-it dram. Sherry in the extreme—best suited for whisky athletes or those with wild imaginations. Could be illegal in some countries.
SGP:672 - 85 points.

I think, all in all, we’ve pretty much experienced the best of Ireland today. We’re not going to calculate it, but I’m sure the average score is huge.

Check the index of all Irish we've tasted so far