A small trio of Glenmorangie


October 7, 2024

A small trio of Glenmorangie

Today, we have two relatively new releases from the giraffe park in Tain, Ross-shire, and a small independent bottling that isn't all that secret. A quick question, by the way: if the giraffe is the emblem of Glenmorangie, thanks to its famous long-necked stills, what would be the mascot of Ardbeg? The hippopotamus?

(Glenmorangie)

Glenmorangie ‘A Tale of Ice Cream’ (46%, OB, 2024)

I rather enjoyed the ‘Tale of Cake’ (WF 85) and found the ‘Tale of Tokyo’ (WF 88) even more to my taste, but this one comes with the note that it was ‘aged in high vanillin and bourbon casks.’ High-vanillin casks, you say? Well, more seriously, it seems that it’s a specific toasting method that enhances the vanillin content produced by American oak. So, after chocolate malt, here’s vanilla casks. Colour: gold. Nose: I’m mainly getting green tea and coconut, layered over hazelnut cake and some Streusel. You could argue that Streusel could also come filled with vanilla cream. There’s a youthful edge, but the oak knows its place. Mouth: it’s got a bit more bite to it, with a slightly green tannic quality that brings the green tea to the forefront again, followed by spices—cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg—and a touch of slightly rough peach skin. Finally, some freshly pressed oranges with a hint of saffron. Finish: medium length, with a bit of green oak. Bitter oranges linger on the aftertaste. Comments: I think I might have missed that famous high-vanillin, and the ice cream even more so. Still, I find it quite enjoyable, though I believe I preferred the earlier ‘Tale’ releases.
SGP:551 - 82 points.

Glenmorangie 16 yo ‘The Nectar’ (46%, OB, bourbon and sweet white wine casks, +/-2024)

We’ve had the pleasure of trying the ‘Nectar d’Or’ in both its NAS and 12-year-old versions, both of which were finished in Sauternes casks. This new 16-year-old has been finished for two years in a medley of sweet wines, including Sauternes, Monbazillac, Moscatel, and Tokaji. It’s interesting to note the recent trend of age statements being pushed upwards, as we’ve seen with the 10-year-old becoming a 12. Colour: light gold. Nose: I find it quite similar to ‘A Tale of the Forest’, just a tad rounder, with more focus on apricots and maple syrup. You’ll notice this difference only grows as the seconds and minutes tick by. Mouth: really sweet, but with some green spices in the background. Up front, we’ve got candied citron, bergamot, and a rather sugary apple juice. So, we’re not straying too deeply into the winey side of things. Finish: medium in length, leaning towards spiced honey with cloves, star anise, ginger, and turmeric. The muscat-like notes amusingly make a late appearance, mingling with a bit of fudge. Comments: this is genuinely lovely. I forgot to mention the rose jelly and soft liquorice in the finish.
SGP: 651 - 85 points.

Westport 26 yo 1997/2023 (47.1%, Oxhead Whisky Company for Shelter, hogshead, cask #3301, 183 bottles)

We remember that Westport is the trade name for Glenmorangie that's been ‘teaspooned’, supposedly with a drop of Glen Moray, though Glen Moray was sold to La Martiniquaise back in 2008. One could wonder if they might teaspoon with Ardbeg instead, but surely we’d notice that, wouldn’t we? Colour: straw. Nose: a stunning nose, reminiscent of some official single cask ‘private’ bottlings, with top-notch citrus at the forefront—think pink grapefruit and even blood oranges. There are also hints of blond tobacco, some sweet Loire wine, Chenin Blanc, linden honey, freshly baked blueberry muffins, and artisanal crème de cassis. Absolutely splendid—fresh, lively, and almost refreshing. Mouth: remarkable tension for its age, with fresh mint, green wood, lemon, grapefruit, and once again a touch of cassis. You might even detect a subtle saline note. Finish: medium in length, evoking iced peach tea and still loaded with citrus. The aftertaste turns more herbal, like well-brewed green tea. Comments: the nose is magnificent, though the palate is slightly more restrained, but isn’t that often the way?
SGP: 561 - 87 points.

Check the index of all glenmorangie we've tasted so far