A vertical tasting of beautiful old Cognac, vintages 1961-1940


December 1, 2024

A vertical tasting of beautiful old Cognac, vintages 1961-1940

As promised last Sunday, we'll start with the 1960s (just yesterday, really), but as is often the case, we'll begin with a little aperitif. Right, a post-prandial apéritif – I know, not much sense.

(Too funny, this interpretation of ‘vintage cognac distillers’ by ChatGPT, with its countless mistakes. Especially the bit suggesting "one person working and seven watching.")

Comte Joseph ‘Hors d’Âge’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)

A brand belonging to the vast Grands Chais de France group, which began with Cognac but now owns countless wine houses across all regions, while also distributing spirits such as Guadeloupe’s Bologne rums. This is their own Cognac house, the very origin of the group. The Hors d’Âge range falls under the XO category (or XXO, as of 2018, if I’m not mistaken), but these offerings generally boast ages exceeding 30 years, often showcasing the oldest blends from the cellars (excluding the occasional vintage bottlings). Colour: golden amber. Nose: this is soft, rounded, and smooth, with a combination of acacia honey, orange liqueur, and sultanas upfront, followed by the expected notes of tinned peaches, dried figs, and a faint hint of violet-tinged liquorice. The nose is ultra-balanced, remarkably sweet, and even carries a delicate touch of ripe muscat.

Mouth: that same balance continues, now with the addition of fresh citrus notes that help to offset the sweetness on the palate. There’s peach skin, honey, liquorice, a subtle hint of lavender bonbons, and an entire bag of honey sweets. Despite the lower bottling strength, there’s no sign of weakness, even though modern enthusiasts are less accustomed to these strengths these days. Finish: medium in length but quite fresh, with no excessive sweetness. Instead, it lingers with hints of dark tobacco and oak while maintaining its equilibrium. Comments: a very traditional style, impeccably executed. It almost feels “familial,” as I struggle to imagine anyone disliking it as a friendly digestif after Christmas dinner with turkey and chestnuts. What’s more, it’s a very affordable old Cognac in terms of value (BFYB).
SGP: 641 - 86 points.

Let’s move on to (much) older cognacs…

François Peyrot ‘Lot 61 Heritage’ (43.8%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Grande Champagne, 180 bottles, 2024)

A striking 63-year-old Grande Champagne Cognac, entirely aged in wood without ever touching a demijohn. colour: amber with copper hues. nose: the antithesis of the Comte Joseph, showing more rugged character with sharper edges and imperfections that truly define its personality. There’s honeysuckle honey, a hint of rustic cider, a gentle acidity, and earthy tones of damp soil, mushrooms, and toasted bread crusts (think morel croûte – delicious!). It eventually rounds out with touches of butterscotch and praline kissed with liquorice. The contrast with the Comte Joseph is striking, underscoring the importance of lineup building in such tastings. Mouth: an intriguing mix of almost tannic tension and fine bitterness, balanced by a rich, almost sherry-like (old PX) sweetness leaning into fruitcake territory. Finish: slightly molassy, but more so a robust maple syrup note beside pronounced tannins lingering in the aftertaste – think Underberg and similar bitters. comments: excellent, yet likely the opposite of a cosy, ‘familial’ Cognac to sip after turkey and deserts, though you could certainly try it with turkey.
SGP: 561 – 87 points.

Vallein Tercinier 60/78 (48.2%, Decadent Drams, Fine Champagne, 120 bottles, 2024)

Apparently a dream dram brought to life by M. Sponge/Land/Dram/Angus, this is a blend of Grande Champagne (L.78, 60%) and Petite Champagne (L.60, 40%) bottled under the charmingly old-fashioned designation of ‘Fine Champagne’, which requires at least 50% Grande Champagne in the mix – duly met here. Don’t confuse ‘fine’ here with the term used in French to describe a wine eau-de-vie, rather than a marc. All cognacs are technically ‘fines’, but not all are Fine Champagnes, though every Fine Champagne is a fine. Aspirin, anyone? Colour: golden amber. Nose: confirms that glorious 40–50-year-old mark as an ideal age, though the average here is slightly higher at 53. There’s still tension, with hints of varnish, turpentine, apricot eau-de-vie, kirsch, and fruit stones, alongside wafts of roasted pineapple and slightly overripe bananas. A subtle cosmetic touch emerges (night cream, perhaps?) before the classic duo of vineyard peaches and honey makes a vibrant entrance. Mouth: firm and surprisingly youthful, opening with hints of gewurztraminer (rose, lychee) before transitioning to that familiar kirsch character (stone fruit, cherries). The spices then take charge with coriander, juniper, cinnamon, clove, black pepper, and a final mentholated twist. Finish: long and spicy, with subtle black pepper joined by roasted cocoa nibs, while vineyard peach bids a fond farewell in the aftertaste. Comments: less of a fruit bomb than some other VTs, likely due to a more pronounced woody structure, but still a stunningly fine Fine fine (don’t do it again, S.).
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Mauxion 1958/2024 (51%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Petite Champagne, 78 bottles)

This extraordinary release hails from the Petite Champagne region and has spent an astonishing 65 years maturing fully in wood. Such an extensive ageing could suggest a few bumps and bruises along the way, but let’s see if this venerable gem has managed to retain its balance and elegance. With only 78 bottles available, it’s a true rarity for those fortunate enough to secure one. Colour: full gold. Nose: we’re greeted by an almost pure expression of fruit—apples and quince make an appearance, but it’s the oranges, including their zests, that swiftly take centre stage. Dried mandarin peels (chen-pi) and the tiniest pinch of smoked paprika add a delightful complexity to the mix. The entire profile is remarkably precise, with a clarity that feels timeless. With water: the magical trio of oranges, honey, and olive oil emerges. Mouth (neat): those orange zests return with a touch of liquorice and a gentle prickle of pepper. The balance is absolutely millimetric, with the oak performing its supporting role to perfection, adding depth without overwhelming the fruit. With water: a lovely display of simplicity—refined, pure, and harmonious. Finish: it’s more of the same—those zesty oranges, a whisper of pepper, and a lingering freshness. Comments: an astonishingly drinkable old cognac even when you’re not thirsty (what?), a pity there are/were only 78 bottles available. Right, that’s the kind of comment that could land us in trouble under the watchful eye of new society 4.0.
SGP:561 – 89 points.

Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot n°58’ (51%, Petite Champagne, LMDW Foundations, cask #151.A, 60 bottles)

Always a pleasure to see these delightfully simple presentations. You might say that for just 60 bottles, they weren’t going to hire a designer from Madison Avenue (and honestly, I doubt he/she’d have done any better if they had). Colour: Deep gold. Nose: classic VT style, with a clean, fruit-forward profile that’s bold without ever feeling overdone. There’s a touch of herbal freshness, reminiscent of Vicks, and tiny hints of tar, all wrapped in an almost Swiss-like precision—do they make Cognac in Switzerland? With water: a gentle Rhône-like quality emerges, with notes of Roussanne and Marsanne grapes adding a refined white wine character. Mouth (neat): a perfect fusion of ripe fruits and liquorice, though it has a slight tannic grip that likes to assert itself on your tongue—entertaining, if anything, and not at all unwelcome. With water: it softens beautifully, becoming as gentle as a lamb, while the fruit evolves into the luscious sweetness of a perfectly ripe vineyard peach. Alright. Finish: fairly long, with a playful return of tannic grip, joined by a touch of tea and pepper to keep things lively. Comments: I thought last Sunday’s 1974 was slightly superior, though perhaps age is the factor at play here. Nevertheless, this is excellent in its own right, with an absolutely stunning nose.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Famille Cabanne ‘Lot 53’ (54%, The Roots, Grande Champagne, 130 bottles, 2024)

This baby is supposed to be over 70 years old, just imagine that—almost as old as dear Iggy Pop! (77). Colour: gold. Nose: dominated by beautifully ripe apples, in all their forms and varieties. In the background, we find other orchard fruits—pears, cormes (never found the proper word in English), and quince—alongside faintly chalky touches. Everything feels wonderfully mature without the slightest excess. With water: stunning! It lifts off towards the realm of vintage yellow Chartreuse and old Benedictine liqueurs. Mouth (neat): orange liqueur, sultanas, sweet honey, followed by a touch of saffron, pepper, and cinchona bark. It remains wonderfully compact and composed. With water: perhaps today’s winner? (S., don’t be daft, it’s not a competition.) Peppermint, orange liqueur, a hint of fig liqueur, and most notably, absolutely no obtrusive oak—even at this staggering age. We told you, it’s like Iggy Pop (though Nick might have preferred a nod to Nick Cave, but at only 67, Nick Cave doesn’t quite qualify yet). Finish: long, citrusy, and honeyed, simply perfect. A lovely dash of black pepper punctuates the finale. Comments: flawless, and almost refreshing in its elegance. Luckily, as Christmas approaches, they usually sell bespoke padlocks to secure bottles like these—make sure you get one for under the tree. Right, have we not all got some as Xmas presents (they’re in the lower drawer in the kitchen, in the back, untouched since 1997).
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Sainte-Lheurine ‘Lot 45’ (55.3%, Mauxion for Journal des Kirsch, #9, Petite Champagne, 144 bottles, 2024)

In theory, putting Gascon musketeers on a Cognac label will get you sentenced to wrestling a one-ton raging bull after having downed five (5) kilos of foie gras and three (3) bottles of Ténarèze. Thankfully, our friends at Kirsch are safe from such theatrics, we’re not the ones who’ll denounce them. Incidentally, this bottle won’t be released until mid-December, I’m told. May the mention of 1945 inspire peace amongst men! Colour: dark gold. Nose: a proper farmhouse affair, with heaps of old apples and pears, some bottles of mead and cider, the faintest whiff of tractor engine oil, a drop of paraffin oil, and even, dare I say, a hint of sea breeze. Quite amusing, really, as Sainte-Lheurine is far from any ocean, even the Gironde estuary. Charming stuff. With water: not much evolution, everything was present from the start. Mouth (neat): a massive burst of fruitiness. No need to list every fruit, but peaches, plums, and melons are certainly here, alongside honey. A gentle nudge of coffee grounds keeps everything, well, grounded. With water: a stunning praline of dried fruits, orange blossom, and, dare I say, panettone—it’s panettone season, after all! Glazed oranges abound, with pink peppercorn adding a playful kick. As Fela Kuti said, water, him no get enemy! Finish: long, with beeswax layering itself over the candied fruits, followed by a resinous tail (propolis). Comments: magnificent interplay with water on the palate. A sublime and tightly woven Cognac, holding steady even after 80 years. For the record, Sainte-Lheurine is the village where this gem was crafted, though no specific producer is named.
SGP: 661 - 92 points.

Prunier 'Lot 40' (54.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, for Hong Kong, Grande Champagne, 2023)

Always such handsome bottles at Swell, elegant enough to leave lying about in the living room without risking a divorce—or even to display atop the telly (back when they weren’t flat screens, mind you). Colour: mahogany. Nose: it feels a touch as if it had been aged in sherry casks, which would be legally impossible (I believe). Chocolate, prunes, currants, beef stock, tobacco, and a medley of small herbs (parsley, leek, spring onion), along with a hint of walnut wine. Amusingly, there’s also a rancio and honeyed side that’s almost... brandy de Jerez. Go figure. With water: menthol and a touch of tiger balm, behaving like a very old spirit that hasn’t encountered a single drop of water in its lifetime. Dried raisins. Mouth (neat): ah, here comes that old cognac feel—honeyed, lemony, spicy, and peppery, with a whisper of hoisin sauce. Feels almost like an ancient bottle, but clearly not at this strength. Some beef stock returns. With water: now we’re in the eddies of time, with notes of salt, leek soup, and dried meat. Finish: long, sweet-savoury, with a feeling of old age that’s anything but trivial. A tiny touch of strawberry jam. Comments: 1940! How does one score such a cognac without being either vulgar or presumptuous (as if they aren’t the same thing, eh)? Take this with a pinch—or a cannonball—of salt.
SGP:462 - 88 points.

I believe we'll have a few more, even older vintages before long.

Check the index of all cognac we've tasted so far

		What's a high score here
		I’d like to remind everyone that scores of 85–87 are considered very high in our system, that 88–92 is fabulous, and anything beyond that… is very rare. Let me also reiterate that WF is not a buying guide but a tasting journal. We’re not masochists, and both the business and our friends tend to send us good things rather than the latest concoction that might make you go blind. We’re very careful to avoid the kind of score inflation you sometimes see here and there, that said, we remain enthusiastic – otherwise, we’d stop all this nonsense immediately. There you have it, see you next time.