An Abundance of Caol Ila


December 10, 2024

An Abundance of Caol Ila

Caol Ila remains the number one malt in terms of expressions tasted on WF. There are plenty of reasons for this, but one of the main ones is that it’s always a pleasure to try Caol Ila, simple as that. Let’s take a look at what we have, in no particular order. Note that we won’t be including any “secret” Caol Ilas today.
That said, it seems that along the way, we’ll also be tasting bourbon, palo cortado, PX, rum from Barbados, Rivesaltes, amontillado, oloroso, and manzanilla. Right.

Katrin Bremermann, 'No.2012-2020', enamel on waxed paper (artwork for the Caol Ila 'Artist Collective No 7.4')

Caol Ila 16 yo 2007/2023 (42.4%, Cut Your Wolf Loose, Cut Your Leftovers Loose, ex-American whisky, 80 bottles)

It seems only 80 bottles remained in the cask, and the intriguing ABV suggests another equally fascinating story behind this whisky. Colour: straw. Nose: absolutely delightful, light yet deep, with a style reminiscent of ‘Old Caol Ila’ from the late 1960s or early 1970s. Think ashes and coal, old paint pots, seaweed, and polished antique furniture, with a few whiffs of aged crème de menthe for good measure. It's almost like stepping into a whisky antiquarian’s treasure trove. Mouth: resins and ashes, oysters, and seawater take centre stage, followed by a distinct charred edge and bittersweet old liqueurs. Hugely impressive and no doubt a serious challenge if you were tasting this blind. Finish: long and incredibly salty, like a malt thinned with seawater. Comments: something remarkable must have happened in this cask—perhaps a tale involving angels.
SGP:467 - 90 points.

Caol Ila 11 yo ‘Ambrosial Feast’ (57.3%, OB, Special Releases 2024)

This is a non-peated version of Caol Ila (sometimes referred to as ‘Highland Caol Ila’), now far rarer than it was some 15 years ago. Colour: gold. Nose: slightly vinegary at first, with perhaps a whisper of peat, before developing into notes of apple tart and honey. There’s a touch of shortbread and even a drop of beer in the background. With water: the barley shines through, along with a hint of mead and a touch of rubber. Mouth (neat): powerful, with a splash of apple vinegar and some pepper, followed by apple cake and a bitter herbal edge. With water: citrus fruits and pepper emerge, along with more cake and a trace of ginger. Finish: fairly long, rather spicy, leaning on peppery notes with a saline touch towards the end. Comments: not bad at all, but there are dozens of other Scottish distilleries producing this style of whisky. Somewhat anecdotal, really.
SGP:551 - 82 points.

Caol Ila 15 yo 2008/2024 (53.2%, The Whisky Show, Chris Bolton, 291 bottles)

Featuring TWE's excellent Chris Bolton on the label, this bottling promises to deliver. Colour: pale gold. Nose: classic Caol Ila, taut and vibrant but with a firm structure, unfurling notes of mint and lemon alongside hints of shellfish and fireplace smoke, with a delicate touch of mezcal. With water: a lovely combination of cake batter and verbena emerges, with a faint backdrop of fuel oil. Mouth (neat): absolutely excellent—no complaints here. Lemon, pepper, seawater, oysters, and slightly richer smoke than one might typically expect. With water: a perfect balance between all these elements, showcasing a rare blend of power and elegance. Finish: long and deeply satisfying. Truly, these are whiskies that are almost impossible to resist. Comments: superb—well done, Chris and gang (and the distillers in the first place, naturally).
SGP:557 - 89 points.

Caol Ila 8 yo 2015/2024 (43%, Signatory Vintage, LMDW, Artist Collective N°7.4, hogsheads, 6 casks, 2753 bottles)

Caol Ila, in my experience, is one of those malts that can be utterly brilliant even at lower strengths, and the folks at Signatory clearly know this very well. Colour: water, almost. Call it Islay water. Nose: I was right (yes, I’ll take that, thank you), this is superb. It immediately makes you want to grab some smoked salmon and crème fraîche to pair with this charming little Caol Ila, full of smoke, lemon, ashes, and fresh engine oil. Mouth: playful coffee notes add a bit of fun to the familiar salinity and smoke. Beware, this is dangerously drinkable. If you decide to enjoy it over ice, perhaps call your solicitor first and double-check the details of your will. Finish: it holds steady, with lime and freshly cut apples bringing an even more refreshing touch. Comments: caution, high risk—this bottle really needs a warning sticker.
SGP:557 - 87 points.

Caol Ila 10 yo 2011/2021 (56.4%, Ingelred, bourbon, cask #307971, 295 bottles)

– A tale of Vikings, it seems, though this isn’t Highland Park; it’s unmistakably Caol Ila. After all, Islay is brimming with Viking heritage anyway. Colour: almost white. Nose: well, well—juniper and fresh anise. If this is Viking-inspired, one might think of aquavit, no? But I must say, this spirit is thoroughly charming. With water: an avalanche of green apples appears. Mouth (neat): of course it’s pure, precise, surgical Caol Ila. Smoke, ashes, lemon, two whelks, and three oysters make an appearance. With water: a touch of coffee, tart apples, green pepper, and those ever-so-slightly rubbery ashes. Finish: long, sharp, salty, and pinpoint accurate. Comments: it’s a bit like the 2008 at 43%, but with (a lot) more punch.
SGP:557 - 87 points.

These young Caol Ilas are simply unstoppable. They always remind me of the emotion one feels the first time they catch sight of the large stills through the bay window. In fact, it's very rare to come across a bad Caol Ila—or as someone once said, if it's bad, then it isn't Caol Ila.

Caol Ila 11 yo 2012/2024 (59.1%, Signatory Vintage, for Whisky Club Nantais, bourbon hogshead, cask #318264, 255 bottles)

A young Caol Ila bottled for true Breton enthusiasts (and yes, Nantes is Breton, don’t argue). Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: It's an absolute delight to dive into these young, crystal-clear Caol Ilas, where the distillate takes centre stage rather than the cask. And what a distillate it is! Here we have something almost akin to smoked cider apples grilled over charcoal with a lovely dash of peat and just a faint medicinal whisper of Mercurochrome. That said, do take note—it’s nudging 60%! With water: much the same, remaining wonderfully elemental and pure. Mouth (neat): utterly simple, and in this context, that’s a quality in itself. Green apple, green pepper, citrus zest, and heaps of smoke and tar. With water: softens slightly, bringing in ripe apples, a drizzle of honey, and a rounded nuttiness that envelopes the palate. There’s even a touch of mustard and a fino-like dryness lurking in the background. Finish: Long, saline, and maritime to the last drop. Comments: Proof that the word ‘basic’ can be a badge of honour. A superbly focused young Caol Ila, still playing in the big leagues.
SGP: 557 - 87 points.

It feels a bit like one could enjoy about fifteen of these and still achieve the same high score, despite the variations.

Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (55.8%, James Eadie, Palo Cortado hogshead finish, for the UK, cask #378486, 356 bottles)

Palo Cortado and Amontillado are easily among the finest sherries for finishing whisky—aside from Manzanilla, but there’s precious little of that in finishing, alas. Colour: dark gold. Nose: a stroke of genius here. Polished wax, used motor oil, and smoked almonds. What a stunning marriage between Caol Ila and sherry. In my book PX can often spell disaster with peated whiskies, but Palo Cortado is just perfect. With water: exhaust fumes, tarmac, and the scent of new tyres—almost like certain young Port Ellens from days gone by. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent, like chewing a cigar while sipping on a robust double espresso. With water: it becomes gentler, offering salted apple, oysters, crab, and even a touch of Alsatian Riesling that pairs remarkably well. Finish: dry, long, increasingly peppery, and utterly perfect, with a whisper of hydrocarbons and ash trailing on the aftertaste. Comments: if only everyone handled their finishings this well.
SGP: 467 - 88 points.

By the way, coming soon on WF: around ten Port Ellens that have never been tasted before for WF. I promise, before Christmas.

Caol Ila 22 yo 2002/2024 (52.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW, refill sherry, cask #14600104, 241 bottles)

Gordon & MacPhail continue to showcase their mastery as both independent bottlers and seasoned whisky maturers, selecting exceptional casks and often nurturing them to brilliance. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite different from others, and it’s not just the age. There’s much more subtlety, with notes of vegetable oils, pistachios, sunflower seeds, linseed oil, damp earth, chalk, and clay… But the hallmark Caol Ila base remains firmly intact—sea water, smoke, petrol, and even a whisper of acetone (in the tiniest doses). With water: ripe green apples make an entrance, adding a delightful brightness. Mouth (neat): an intriguing, slightly unexpected duality—on one side, salted caramels and coffee, on the other, seaweed smoke and beachside barbecue. Yet, it all comes together gracefully, tied up with fine black pepper. With water: a combination of apple tart and a touch of shellfish, keeping things playful. Finish: Long and, as one might expect, more mature and evolved. Comments: gentler and rounder than others, but also rather more complex. The peat has softened a bit, but the whisky retains a rather dazzling brilliance, as one would hope.
SGP: 555 - 88 points.

Caol Ila 12 yo 2010/2023 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega series, 1st fill PX, 395 bottles)

Of course, the mention of 1st fill PX on a peated whisky is a bit frightening, but nothing is ever definitive, and the worst is never certain (Confucius – that’s right, S.). After all, it’s no worse than coffee-mustard or banana-mint. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this is a somewhat discreet PX, but as often happens, the pairing still brings out some fairly marked rubbery notes. Think new inner tubes and such. With water: not too bad, but unnecessary, I would say. Mouth (neat): honestly, it’s fine. You lose a bit of Caol Ila’s razor-sharp edge, and the raisins feel as out of place as my grandmother at a Taylor Swift gig, but yes, ‘it’s fine’. With water: we’re comparing this to James E.’s Palo Cortado. We shouldn’t have. Finish: not bad… Comments: yes, it’s not bad, but since Caol Ila isn’t exactly the rarest malt whisky, the enthusiast might want to turn to more rewarding expressions, as they used to say in whisky guides from the 1960s. I’d also point you towards the recent Aultmore 10 years from Goldfinch, a thousand times more to my taste.
SGP:666 - 78 points.

Caol Ila 14 yo 2008/2023 (55.3%, Oxhead, hogshead, cask #322483)

A playful label in the style of a replica, with a mention of the Port Askaig pharmacy. We’ve never seen a pharmacy in Port Askaig, but perhaps we didn’t look hard enough. Colour: white wine. Nose: this is a somewhat more delicate nose, bearing similarities to that of the G&M CC 22, particularly sunflower oil and linseed oil. Beach bonfires, sea water, and almonds (we mean the shellfish, of course) follow. I mean we call dog cockle ‘sea almond’ in France. In short, maybe not a CI that totally asserts itself right away. With water: wet chalk emerges, alongside the scent of a brand-new scarf from the marvellous Islay Woollen Mill. You know, the kind that itches your neck a little but looks very smart when you’re back home… Mouth (neat): oh, very good! Ultra-classic, peat, brine, pepper, lemon, ashes… With water: yes, straightforward, paraffin, lemon zest, almond milk, and plenty of salt. Finish: similar, a rather oily CI. Comments: a very fine intermediate CI with a gorgeous texture.
SGP:567 - 87 points.

Alright, one last one; I think we’ll carry on tomorrow…

Caol Ila 17 yo 2006/2023 (55.1%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 204 bottles)

I really like Cadenhead’s new designs—before, it felt like the 1960s; now, it’s more like the 1940s, ha. Remember, ‘don’t preserve the ashes but keep the fire alive,’ etc., etc., etc… Colour: white wine. Nose: a rather discreet Caol Ila, a gentleman, with tweed and with a touch of soot, then hints of melon and vineyard peach. You might think it came from an ex-cognac cask, though apparently, it’s not. There’s also an air of an old forge, metal, and greases… With water: motor oil, sourdough, and liquorice… Could it have been an ex-Longrow-ex-bourbon cask, by any chance? Mouth (neat): here comes Caol Ila’s intrinsic power, joined by a nearly effervescent profile—Schweppes, ginger, cinchona, sea salt, and an unexpected touch of jasmine tea. It all works very nicely, even if my description sounds improbable. With water: not very Caol Ila, but what matters is it’s both beautiful and delicious. Finish: long, with those floral notes lingering—lavender, jasmine, and even rosemary. Comments: a most surprising CI, especially after ten others, offering a fairly different perspective. Either way, I love it despite its unusual character. Well, they say habits are killers.
SGP:555 - 86 points.

Once again, a very impressive grouping today, but as we’ve said, CI offers the reliability of a brand-new Patek Philippe (just to pick an example at random).

Check the index of all Caol Ila we've tasted so far