An official Lagavulin duo and two aperitifs


October 28, 2024

An official Lagavulin duo and two aperitifs

Lagavulin's own World Saxophone Quartet (WF Archive, 2005)

The aperitifs are likely independent versions of Lagavulin, but the bottlers have never, not even once, confirmed a single detail—and believe me, I’ve spent the last twenty-five years trying to get them to. I’ve even attempted bribery, enforced tippling, lavish gifts, and unmentionable blackmail: nothing, absolutely nothing, a complete failure.

Finlaggan 'Old Reserve' (40%, Vintage Malt Whisky Society, single Islay malt, +/-2006)

Now, we once adored a 2005 version (WF 88). Nothing actually claims this is Lagavulin, and Loch Finlaggan, seat of the Lords of the Isles, sits nearer to Caol Ila and Port Askaig. Yet, one can’t help but wonder, especially as a certain importer slapped a ‘Lagavulin’ sticker on an old bottle over twenty years ago—a move not sanctioned by the Vintage Malt Whisky Society, as I’ve recently confirmed. But enough chit-chat. Colour: gold. Nose: we start with a gorgeously rich and oily smoke, nearly sticky, interwoven with ripe yellow melon. This is already quite ‘old-school’ with its hints of seawater, tar, a touch of mint, and shellfish emerging in time. Surprisingly weighty on the nose for its modest 40% vol., which certainly whispers more of Lagavulin than Caol Ila. Mouth: splendidly intense, quite potent for a 40% peater, with that trademark medicinal sweetness we find in the distillery opposite Dunyvaig Castle. The peat comes through robustly, the whole thing lush and slightly oily. Finish: curiously long, peaty, more salted, still fairly oily with a hint of rubber—a far cry from Caol Ila’s zestier edge. Comments: I’ll stick with the same score; this distillate is a true favourite. Yet, bear in mind, Lagavulin’s style isn’t easily codified, given the limited range of expressions and the cask impact (sherry, now tequila, rum) that sometimes obscures the official distillate itself.
SGP:567 - 88 points.

Laggan Mill ‘Secret Islay’ (56.5%, The Cooper’s Choice, for France, bourbon cask, cask #302021, 360 bottles, 2022)

Once again, we have the very honourable Vintage Malt Whisky Society stirring up a bit of gentle mischief with the word ‘Laggan’—after all, it’s the name of a farm on the shores of Loch Indaal (where, as it happens, we once spent a night, many moons ago). But here, general consensus firmly points to Lagavulin. Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re greeted by the plum eau-de-vie quality of a very young Lagavulin, with oily peat, shellfish, brine, apple and apricot juice, oysters, and mercurochrome. If the palate isn’t too immature, this is sure to be a winner. With water: rubber boots, new tyres, and some tincture of iodine… Really, there’s very little doubt now. Mouth (neat): superb notes of pepper, olive, lemon, and smoke, reminiscent of an elevated dry Martini—the olive is really pronounced. With water: pear! Yes, it’s very young but utterly delightful, more like a dry Martini done with mezcal (say what?). Finish: an avalanche of ashes. Comments: ultra-precise, though the slight youthful edge stops me from going all the way to 90 points.
SGP:657 - 89 points.

Lagavulin 11 yo ‘Offerman Edition’ (46%, OB, Caribbean rum cask finish, 2024)

Now, let’s clarify—this is merely a rum finish (eight months), not a full maturation. Regrettably, I haven’t the faintest idea who Mr. Offerman is, though I’m told by Angus he’s genuinely fond of Lagavulin, which naturally speaks in his favour. Colour: light gold. Nose: Lagavulin’s robust distillate handles such a quirky rum finish with ease, barely batting an eyelid. What we get here is a lovely young Lagavulin, well coastal and peaty, with a touch of flambéed banana that politely steps back to let a proper quartet of oyster, tar, iodine, and lemon shine through. Mouth: honestly, this goes down effortlessly; the slight exotic sweetness doesn’t interfere too much with the distillate, though there’s a hint of chlorophyll, pineapple, and strawberry, then leather and banana—none of which shouts ‘Lagavulin’, indeed. Finish: fairly long, returning to the distillery’s typical profile with seawater, brine, tar, and fat citrus… thankfully! Comments: of course, it’s an excellent whisky, but I believe the standard Lagavulins remain superior—all of them. So, I’d say this 11-year-old is worth considering if you’ve no access to other Lagavulin options, official or indie.
SGP:556 - 84 points.

By the way, there are currently quite a few new independent young "Secret Islay" bottlings that should actually be Lagavulin, but they aren’t the focus of this session.

Lagavulin 12 yo ‘Fireside Tales’ (57.4%, OB, Special Releases 2024, first fill and refill bourbon)

Thus far, Lagavulin's Special Releases have rarely, if ever, let us down—even last year's tequila-seasoned bottling managed to charm us (WF 89). This year, however, we’re back to basics, sticking strictly to bourbon, which bodes well. So, let’s settle in for these Fireside Tales... Once upon a time… Colour: pale gold. Nose: straightforward, even elemental, with fresh plastic, ripe apple, ashes, and green pepper. Quite frankly, that’s just splendid for us. With water: spot on—nothing to change, keep this recipe and repeat until the doctor tells me to hang up my tasting glass. Mouth (neat): the precise, razor-sharp perfection of a young, peppery Lagavulin—lemony, salty, immensely peaty, vibrant, and undeniably bold. These ‘Fireside Tales’ seem to recount battles against all manner of invaders—Saxons, Vikings, Scots, U-boats, even thirsty whisky enthusiasts from all countries. With water: pure brilliance. Smoked lemony mustard with tar, oysters, and green pepper. Finish: yes indeed—smoked lemony mustard, tar, oysters, and green pepper. A faintly honeyed and vanilla-laced signature, likely thanks to the first fill bourbon. Comments: this takes me back to my preferred style, much like the 2007 from 2020. Just one last little favour—please bring back the vintages…
SGP:557 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Lagavulin we've tasted so far