Another bag of eleven random rums


February 25, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Another bag of eleven random rums

What we sometimes call a solera session, we're adding new spirits whenever we can, usually just one. The end result would usually be a little 'looser', please don't hold that against us.

At Longueteau, Guadeloupe (Domaine Longueteau)

Arcane 'Délicatissime' (41%, OB, Mauritius, +/-2023)

Pure cane juice. Arcane is made at Grays, whose owners seem to be also owning no less than 7,000 hectares of cane fields in Mauritius. We've already tried this cuvée around eight years ago, it was rather pretty good back then (WF 79). Colour: gold. Nose: really on cane juice, with some dryness, in truth I was expecting something much more syrupy. Some hay, orange skins, candlewax… It's very light but it is pleasant. Mouth: some sugar for sure, pineapples… It does feel 'arranged'. Not quite a fan this time, but we're still way above Bumbu or Don Papa. Finish: short. Cane juice, cane syrup, Cointreau. Comments: not quite this time, it's probably very okay on ice, but at room temperature it is just rather uninteresting, after all. Sorry, Arcane.
SGP:730 - 64 points.

Mezan 'Chiriqui' (40%, Mezan, Panama, small batch, finished in moscatel cask, +/-2023)

Mezan 'Chiriqui' (40%, Mezan, Panama, small batch, finished in moscatel cask, +/-2023)
They write 'unsweetened' and 'unadulterated' on the label here, which is just very cool, unless one believes that doing a finishing in moscatel means precisely 'sweetening' and 'adulterating' you spirit. To be discussed… Having said that the house Mezan has got an excellent reputation and I sure have tasted some very good rums of theirs. Colour: light gold. Nose: no moscatel nightmare, rather some dry caneness, hay, a little wood smoke perhaps, and something Cuban. Fresh and very undemanding. Mouth: it's very okay, light, slightly sweet, otherwise herbal, without much body or texture. I'm finding the moscatel extremely well-mannered; in other words, simply absent. Finish: short, sweeter, that may be that elusive moscatel. A feeling of mosto, in fact. Comments: not one I'll remember forever. The one I'll remember forever is the first young Jamaican by Mezan I tried, quite some years ago.
SGP:520 - 69 points.

Hold on…

Mezan 'Jamaican Barrique XO' (40%, Mezan, Jamaica, +/-2023)

A blend of Monymusk, Long Pond et Worthy Park (some retailers say Mony Musk and Hampden, which shouldn't be right). This shouldn't be too bad. Colour: white wine. Nose: as I remembered Mezan's first Jamaican, that is to say just perfect, utterly Jamaican, with everything it needs (engine oil, olives, tarmac, new tyres and rubber boots, anchovies, fresh paint…) Mouth: the low strength is not a problem. Pure petroly Jamaicanness, just easier than usual. Olives and carbon. Finish: not even short, lovely, salty, tarry. One litre of olive oil in the aftertaste, plus a few overripe bananas. Comments: I last tried this expression in 2013. Well, we haven't changed one iota (neither the rum, nor us, uh.)
SGP :552: - 86 points.

Rivière du Mât 'Royal Reserve' (42%, OB, La Réunion, +/-2023)

We had tried a 'Grande Réserve' by Rivière du Mât (WF 79) but never this 'Royal Reserve' that, in all logic, should be even superior. It's to be noted that almost all 'warm-climate' French islands are now making rum, Guadeloupe/Marie-Galante, Martinique, Réunion, Tahiti, Nouvelle-Calédonie, French Guyana (not an island, I know)… Colour: gold. Nose: pretty floral nose, with some vanilla, dandelions, acacia honey, plus roses and ylang-ylang, hints of pineapple and banana – in short, this is easy and very appealing. Mouth: very floral indeed, full of violets, lavender, jasmine, also liquorice bringing more structure, orange liqueur/triple-sec… Finish: medium, spicy, with even a feeling of rye here and there. Lavender sweets and a little pineapple liqueur. The aftertaste feels a little 'sweetened-up'. Comments: I could really drink this, on ice and in summer. Seriously, I find it very good 'for what it is'.
SGP:640 - 82 points.

Saint James 18 yo 2004/2023 (43%, OB, Martinique, 2000 bottles, 2023)

Proper appellation contrôlée Martinique, naturally, distilled at Saint James / J.Bally and fully matured on the island. It is agricole and actually matured in wood until 2022, then rested for one extra-year in a vat, which, I believe, doesn't count in the 'compte d'âge'. Huge respect for Saint James and the people behind 'the brand'. Colour: full gold. Nose: dazzlingly old-school, with first some encaustic, camphor, varnish, eucalyptus oil, perhaps even thyme oil… Then a charming wee – they don't say wee in Martinique – dusty earthiness. No damp earth this time. Then some more classic orange liqueur and blossom, mocha, cigar tobacco, black tea (close to dry old oak)… Mouth: very dry arrival, shock-full of wood extracts (from liquorice wood to pine resin), but many other flavours are then forcing their ways upon the taster, like flower jellies, cane juice, gritty old Ténarèze, bitter chocolate, damson plums and prunes, a feeling of orange oil and skin, a wee (again!) bit of banana… It's not that it is becoming any smoother but I find it, indeed, more welcoming. Finish: rather long, on black tea and orange oils. A small black olive in the aftertaste. Comments: by the way, the casks were not topped-up or solera-ed (apologies for that new barbarism). It's really nice to see that a distinctly woody note can work very well. I just imagine that the aging process wasn't easy to monitor since we all know that there's really no going back when it comes to aging. Yeah, sadly.
SGP:271 - 89 points.

Canoubier 17 yo (40%, Distillerie des Moisans, Nicaragua, 1000 bottles, +/-2023)

Finished in French oak barrels, does it say; they were actually cognac casks. Many people in France have started to use ex-cognac wood but Moisans are actual cognac makers and growers, located in Sireuil, east of Segonzac. But this is rum, most probably from the makers of Flor de Cana. The 40% feel a little, well, you see what I mean. Colour: deep gold. Nose: fine, with all expected aromas, vanilla, honey, light molasses, cappuccino, nougat, a little sweet maze (bourbon), a few raisins… It's all light but pleasant. Mouth: light and pleasant indeed. A little triple-sec, a little hay, cane/bagasse, touches of caramel, maple syrup… Pretty typical light rum from central America, rather less 'sweetened' than others. Finish: pretty short but clean, with similar flavours. Vanilla, sugarcane syrup… Nice caney signature, with perhaps a salty touch and some orange liqueur. Comments: very honest gentle Nicaraguan, it would probably beat the officials.
SGP:530 - 80 points.

Bellevue 24 yo 1998/2022 (51.5%, The Royal Cane Cask Company, Guadeloupe, cask #M080, 265 bottles)

This is rhum traditionnel, so ex-molasses from Bellevue, and not agricole. Aged for a few years on location, then exported to Liverpool for many more years of aging, let's see if it speaks like Sir Paul. Colour: deep gold. Nose: probably the most 'Jamaican' of all Guadeloupéens/Martiniquais. Awesome liquorice and diesel, carbolineum, seawater, black tapenade, touches of glue (Pattex but shh…), touches of rotting bananas and a tiny hint of cane vinegar… With water: pretty estery, still refreshing, extremely well balanced. A little more rubber now (new boots). Mouth (neat): yeah, extremely good. Salty and petroly arrival, then bags of liquorice, a curious gherkin + banana combination… I think this is splendid, right between two worlds. With water: more grass and varnish, it's as if water made it a notch harsher. Which is not unpleasant, by the way. Finish: rather long, saltier yet, with a little glue/varnish and a lot of liquorice again in the aftertaste. Comments: not sure water was mandatory here – well I'm sure it was not – it's great but no big surprise, after all, it is Bellevue 1998 (very well spotted, S., bravo).
SGP:463 - 90 points.

Longueteau 'Prélude' (49.8%, OB, Guadeloupe, Collection Harmonie, +/-2023)

This is a music -based series by Longueteau called Harmonie. This is the Prelude, but they also have 'Symphony' or 'Concerto', as well as 'Zouk Machine'. Not too sure about the latter. Colour: light gold. Nose: really rounded, with rather a lot of virgin oak, possibly deep-charred as it appears on the nose. Some sweet and soft curry, cinnamon liqueur, blancmange, a little nutmeg, puréed bananas, pear liqueur, probably some candied ginger… In short it feels pretty oak-driven but it's all pretty smooth and rounded. Modern, that's for sure. Mouth: new-era aged spirit, indeed oak and spice-driven, feeling a little 'spiced' while it is not, technically. Baking spices, cake, a little banana liqueur, sugarcane syrup, the sweetest form of turmeric… Finish: medium, a little syrupy, with rather a lot of caraway and nutmeg liqueur. Fresh oak in the aftertaste. Comments: good, let's have the Symphony…
SGP:641 - 83 points.

Longueteau 'Symphonie' (48.7%, OB, Guadeloupe, Collection Harmonie, +/-2023)

Longueteau 'Symphonie' (48.7%, OB, Guadeloupe, Collection Harmonie, +/-2023)
Aged in both new oak and ex-cognac. Said to be only three years old. Colour: full gold, Nose: rosewater, orange blossom, rather a lot of nougat and honey from the cognac (I suppose), some peach gums – very cognac indeed – then again some wood spices, cloves, nutmeg, pink pepper… Mouth: very creamy texture, that's the wood again, plus baking spices, a lot of cumin liqueur, cinnamon, vanillin, then liquorice-flavoured marshmallows that we could barbecue just as well, as brochettes. Finish: long, with really a good deal of oak spices. Comments: I tend to prefer my Longueteau when they're more on cane and all that, but this very modern offering remains really good. Why not quickly try the Concerto as well…
SGP:551 - 82 points.

Longueteau 'Concerto' (47.9%, OB, Guadeloupe, Collection Harmonie, +/-2023)

Longueteau 'Concerto' (47.9%, OB, Guadeloupe, Collection Harmonie, +/-2023)
Once more, this is ex-new oak and ex-cognac. Said to be 'more than six years old'. Colour: amber. Nose: more rum! Tarmac, liquorice, petrol, pipe tobacco, well, this works. Lovely whiffs of walnut cake straight from the oven, black nougat, hints of mango chutney, a little wood smoke… This is a whole different story. Mouth: very fond of this composition, with its blend of strong honeys (chestnut) and salted liquorice. A feeling of peated malt whisky (as if they had poured a bottle of 'beg from the airport into each cask) plus pear eau-de-vie. Sure there's rather a lot of ginger/cinnamon/turmeric from some pretty active oak, but this side is better integrated and surely not too dominant this time. Some nice caramel too. Finish: rather long, with some lovely bitterish caramel, liquorice, molasses and, well, a little peat. I'm serious! Comments: very good 'modern' concerto. The conductor was still some sweet wood here, but there's also a skilled orchestra. I think we're going to stop the cheap analogies.
SGP:552 - 86 points.

Let's just try to end this little session on an even higher note

Hampden 1 yo 'HLCF' (52%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, ex-bourbon, 20cl, 2024)

Hampden 1 yo 'HLCF' (52%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, ex-bourbon, 20cl, 2024)
Following the extraordinary set of eight Hampden marques introduced as white rums at the end of 2022, here are the same eight marques, but now offered after a brief maturation period of one year in former bourbon casks. We shall not be tasting them one after another today; instead, we will concentrate on the marque that most impressed us in 2022, HLCF (Hampden Light Continental Flavoured). We shall undoubtedly taste them all together another time within one single session, but that will require concentration and serenity, somewhat like Michelangelo before he commenced painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel (but of course, S., of course…) Remember, HLCF = 400 to 600 gr esters/HLPA. Colour: light gold. Nose: it is not a petroly, olive-y, tarry Hampden with just added layers of vanilla and coconut, not at all, everything's intermingled already. Reduction to 52% vol. may have help, having said that. So, petrol, olives, tar, seawater, acetone, touch of cider vinegar, varnish, oysters… In short, all is well. No massive glue as in higher marques. With water: it got rounder, as expected, but never loses its idiosyncrasies. New electronics, plastic, paraffin, tar, seawater, olives, brake dust, old car, leatherette… Mouth (neat): impeccable, very salty and tarry, briney, with some carbon, salted liquorice, ultra-ripe bananas and, once again, a feeling of acetone. Possibly a tad fruitier than its compatriots from other distilleries bearing similar ester counts. With water: awesomely fresh, still tarry and salty, but this time with touches of apples and pineapples. It also seems that the wood brought a few gritty ashes. Finish: long, with just more of all that. The barrel has been acting pretty swiftly too, which is a little more apparent in the aftertaste (white pepper). Comments: it's very well done; we're really maintaining a high standard, even if we're only benefiting here from the initial effects of cask ageing (I remind you, it firstly involves the addition of extra flavours, then filtration and removal of undesirable flavours, and finally ageing and maturation per se).
SGP:563 - 89 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far