Any issue with us tasting some Milton-duff


April 25, 2024

See you in Limburg (Germany)

Let me make it clear that no one's drinking straight from the casks (vom Fass) anymore.

Do you see any issue with us tasting some Milton-duff?

(Ann Harrison, geograph)

Another distillery that enjoyed quite a bit of success in the 1970s and 1980s, especially in Italy. But it all mainly happened in Italy, did it not. Then Miltonduff somewhat faded away, before once again catching the eye due to the current scarcity of quite a few big names at the indies'. As our ancestors used to say in French, in the absence of thrushes, you eat blackbirds. And then we realize that they are just as good, if not sometimes better. Let's go, let's delve into the stock...

Miltonduff 11 yo 2007/2020 (46%, Hunter Laing, Hepburn's Choice, bourbon hogsheads, 756 bottles)

Some series that are generally affordable and nice. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite strong, effective, with notes of liquorice and malt. Lots of roasted nuts and toasted bread, butterscotch and fudge, with a hint of sour beer, it's very pleasant and has a nice presence. Mouth: even more malty, somewhere between Ovaltine and a rather strong stout. Ginger cookies, demerara sugar, dried beef, toffee, a hint of amontillado (yep I see it's bourbon)... Finish: long, with a quite pronounced woody character, almost like European oak (I repeat, I see it's bourbon). One of Starbucks' flavoured coffee right at the end. Comments: it happens that ex-bourbon casks take on a sherry character. It's not common, but it happens. I really like this little dram full of presence.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Miltonduff 11 yo 2012/2023 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, Winter 2023, First Fill Sherry Hogshead)

Colour: full gold. Nose: this one is very different. It starts with a pile of old magazines, so ink, a lot of shoe polish, then black truffle, then resinous woods such as thuja, and finally a sort of pumpernickel bread topped with blackberry and blackcurrant jam. I almost forgot the pipe tobacco; there's a lot of it. Mouth: very good, strong, with a slightly acidic side to start, then toasted wood and an avalanche of tobacco and green nuts. Allow me to mention again nocino and amaro (Montenegro – what a pity it's so sweet). Some marmalade brings a bit of sweetness, if you can call it that. Finish: long, with that persistent green walnut and tobacco. It's reminiscent of chewing tobacco – have you ever chewed tobacco? Comments: this Miltonduff shakes you up a bit. If you like Italian bitters or others, this one's for you.
SGP:562 – 87 points.

Fiddlers Pluscarden 12 yo 2010/2022 (50%, Thompson Bros. for Fiddlers, 1st fill bourbon, 277 bottles)

Presto, 98 points. Right. It's to be known that 'Pluscarden Valley' was the name that bottlers such as Sestante, and then daughter line Silver Seal, were using for Miltonduff, which is located ijn Pluscarden Valley. Fiddlers of Drumnadrochit is, as everyone knows, that inn by Loch Ness whose whisky stock is ample enough to make you spot Nessie for sure and 'without any doubt'. Everything there is good anyway; it's a must-visit. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's quite green and taut at the beginning, with even nettle soup, clay, lettuce, then greengages, cider apples, garden soil... And more and more malt. Even though it's not very strong, I think water will do it some good. With water: pure and good malted barley, more of that wet earth after the first rain of the day. Mouth (neat): very very good, malty, a bit rustic, with a comeback of cider apple, malt, stewed fruits (plums, rhubarb), clay and chalk, even yeast... With water: green banana, fresh bread, lemons, and green apple. It brightens up considerably and becomes almost cheerful. Finish: quite long, more complex, rooty, earthy and lemony. Nothing to discard in all of this. A touch of peat in the aftertaste. Comments: the opposite of the Decadent, and yet I find the levels identical.
SGP:561 - 87 points.

Come on, let's have a bit of fun, after all, this is Whiskyfun... Guess what we have never tasted up to now?... An 'original' 12-year-old Pluscarden! Now that's an unexpected comparison...

Milton Duff 12 yo 'Pluscarden Valley' (61.1%, Sestante, 75cl, 1980s)

Certainly not a common version, other ages were more usual it seems to me, especially at this alcohol strength. I must add that I absolutely adored the 14-year-old at 57.4% from Sestante (WF 93) but let's not forget that the official Milton-Duff 13-year-olds from the 60s and 70s were absolutely magical as well. The 12 years that followed much less so. Well, we're ready... Colour: dark gold. Nose: by the corn cob pipe (which means for goodness' sake), but what a sherry! It has everything, despite the 60%+. Old tools, copper, old ointments, old white wines that haven't really left the track yet, walnuts of course, overripe apples. What's amusing is that stylistically, the Thompson/Fiddlers isn't so far away. With water: it's just like a very grand dry sherry, perhaps one from the 19th century. Incredible morels, humus, old cigars, bouillon cubes, and probably lots of forgotten aromas. One day, an old friend mentioned for example the smells of a certain ladies' perfume no longer made since the 1950s. Crazy. Mouth (neat): but of course. What a thing! An abundance of wax, mandarins and candied clementines, quince jelly... You know what you're going to do? You're going to call the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade subito presto. Gracias. With water: unbelievable, some mentioned old Glen Gariochs as Pluscarden Valleys but yet, on the labels it is indeed written 'Milton Duff Distillery'. Not to be confused with 'Milton', the former name of Strathisla – of course you would never make that beginner's mistake. Finish: always incredible, majestic. Peat, lemon, pine sap, waxes, turpentine... Incredible length as well. Comments: let's not joke, it's at the top. Twenty years ago, we were still thinking that this level of quality could, possibly, be surpassed by 'technology' one day. I have the honour to announce to you that today, we are sure that will never be the case. Totally exceptional whisky.
SGP:662 - 95 points.

Let's try to come back down to earth...

Miltonduff 13 yo 2010/2023 (48%, Hogshead Imports, refill barrel, 268 bottles)

They are so beautiful and timeless, these simple labels. Colour: pale gold. Nose: eeeeh? But it's very pretty indeed, with notes of hay, freshly cut grass, fruit peelings, candle wax, apple juice, and then these very slightly smoky touches, as if the neighbours of the neighbour's neighbour were burning plant matter in their garden. Which is strictly verboten, of course. Mouth: there's again just a little bit of smoke, I don't know if it belongs to Miltonduff or to the previous contents of this refill barrel, but it's very pleasant, subtle, and pairs very well with the waxy side of the distillate. Then come fresh turmeric, ginger, celery, peppers, and maybe some palm hearts. Not sure about that. Very nice oily and waxy texture, I love that and yes, it connects a wee bit with the 12 years old from Sestante's demise. Finish: more on the citrus side. Comments: I am very, very fond of this little bottle. Indeed, the style is close to that of the old Pluscarden (hint, hint).
SGP:562 - 89 points.

Blimey, Miltonduff! Let's take a short break... Alright, we are back...

Miltonduff 13 yo 2008/2021 (54.7%, Duncan Taylor for Whisky Picnic Bar Taiwan, sherry octave, cask #8332833, 75 bottles)

Colour: amber. Nose: typical sherry octave, full of toffee, toasted oak, caramel, butterscotch and walnut cake. It's pretty heavy. With water: it's better, a bit varnished, with nice bitter touches, herbs, amaro, fruitcake with lots of spices... Mouth (neat): very powerful, extractive, concentrated, with oak, caramel, gingerbread, toasted hazelnuts and almonds, pepper, molasses, oak and cedar shavings... It's really thick. With water: hints of orange liqueur and still a lot of caramelized spices, doubly concentrated maple syrup... Finish: long, with pepper, pencil shavings, clove… Comments: more AC/DC than Carly Simon, if you catch my drift. Hard to get more extractive and boosted, in my opinion, even if it's well concocted, certainly. A bit too much for me.
SGP:472 - 80 points.

Miltonduff 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.9%, Kirsch Import, Simply Good Whisky, bourbon barrel, cask #KI-2)

Back to the standard casks. Colour: white wine. Nose: yes indeed, chalk, both fresh and cooked pizza dough, polenta semolina, then mirabelles and quinces (the magical duo) as well as barley syrup and a bit of honey. It's perfect. With water: white peaches, yellow peaches, vineyard peaches... In short, peaches, it's perfect. Mouth (neat): once again, it's quite perfect, modern in style, with green apple liqueur, cider apple, a few pine needles, biscuits, green tea, and a moderate amount of vanilla. With water: the syrups return, of agave, barley, cane... The green tea is still there, so is the vanilla, the tender cinnamon, and the white pepper that adds some punch. Finish: long, tighter, more herbaceous, but ultimately it cleanses your palate and you're just ready for another small glass. Comments: rather more than just 'simply good', in my opinion.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Miltonduff 20 yo 2003/2023 'Lost in Time' (49%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, first-fill American oak cask, cask #63397, 192 bottles)

We really like this new semi-official series that highlights the lesser-known stars of the Chivas Bros malt range. The question is whether Miltonduff is a lead or a supporting player. Given what we're tasting today, and what we've tasted a long time ago, I'd lean towards the former. Colour: pale gold. Nose: full of little pralines and candied sugar, little roots (liquorice, gentian, sweet radish, carrots), then dandelion flowers (don't mow your lawn, help the bees) and fruit peelings, especially apple. All very gentle. With water: more on barley and grains. Mouth (neat): ah, excellent! Some aspects remind us of the Plucarden Valley by Sestante, even if this new baby is more herbal, leaning towards green teas, lemon zest, green apples, indeed radishes... Some superb citrus balances everything. What would we do without citrus! With water: water isn't necessary, but since we're here, let's say that we find sweet and gentle roots, revolving around multicoloured carrots. Finish: very beautiful and long, a bit candied, on citrus marmalade. Comments: a super cask, undoubtedly. Miltonduff's stock is rising rapidly at Château Whiskyfun's trading department.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Let's find one from the 1990s...

Miltonduff 23 yo 1994/2017 (50.6%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, refill hogshead, cask #DL 12200, 262 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: fresh fruits and natural vanilla. That means pears, apples, bananas that are not too ripe, a variety of plums, and a bit of white chocolate. People always say white chocolate is not real chocolate, but still, it's found quite often in malt whiskies that aren't too oaky or winey. With water: closer to dough, baker's yeast, beeswax, cakes, and croissants... Mouth (neat): more spirity than expected, with wax, a bit of polish, all sorts of Kellogg's cereals (the best and the worst), thyme tea, lemon... With water: the citrus takes control, going beyond the usual limoncello. I think mixing this with white rum could create a great mojito with a lot of flair. Well, we're not going to try that. Finish: quite long but sweeter. I find well-ripened kiwi.. The aftertaste is a bit more woody. Comments: another one that was really good.
SGP:651 - 85 points.

How to conclude such a rejuvenating session? I think I have an idea...

Milton Duff 21 yo 'Pluscarden Valley' (57%, Sestante, 75cl, 1980s)

We'll try not to fall into Maltesque quasi-lust, especially since after all, there's nothing to presume that this 21 would be even superior to the extraordinary 12 we tasted a few minutes ago. Colour: brown amber. Nose: it's top-notch, but maybe not as immediately thrilling, due to a more present sherry and a definite rum aspect. Very nice metallic sides (old pennies), a bit of bay leaf, ancient sauces, artisanal gravy, candied chestnuts, Maggi... With water: little change, perhaps even more metallic aspects, from an old toolbox (in an old garage or basement), also some very old Madeira stemming from an old solera started in the 90s. I mean the 1890s, of course. Mouth (neat): no, it's still magical, very powerful, chocolatey and lemony, almost rough, a bit in the vein of an old Armagnac, even if there is also this medicinal, camphorated, peppery side... There might be a bit of OBE. With water: once again, very little change, perhaps a bit saltier, more towards vegetable soups and poultry broths. Finish: long, kind of old-style, but also a bit more honeyed. Mead in the aftertaste, cocoa, and some ancient spices from 'that old tin box'. Comments: sublime, of course, but it must be said that the 12-year-old was stratospherically matchless.
SGP:462 - 92 points.

(Heartfelt double thanks, Logan)

Check the index of all Miltonduff we've tasted so far