As much Macduff as possible


June 18, 2024

As much Macduff as possible

We've accumulated a lot of Macduff. It's time to taste a few. Remember, the official brand of Macduff Distillery is Deveron, or Glen Deveron, or The Deveron, well, you get the idea… It's complicated…

Gilbert O'Sullivan (Avro, Top of the Pops, 1974)

The Deveron 12 yo ‘Madeira Cask’ (40%, OB, +/-2022)

Is there still a distillery in Scotland that knows how to market itself without relying on wine finishes? I find it increasingly concerning... That said, I do love this very retro packaging, it almost makes you want to play Gilbert O'Sullivan on your Dual stereo. Or perhaps Barry Ryan. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's lovely, pleasant, much like Gilbert O'Sullivan indeed. There's some mild beer, apple juice, fresh croissants, a tiny hint of mustard from the Madeira (I imagine), and a touch of damp earth... It's really gentle and agreeable, no complaints. Mouth: yes, it's good, malty, toasty, with ale, toasted chestnuts, chocolate, and white asparagus... It just lacks a bit of oomph, but Gilbert O'Sullivan was never a member of The Stooges (S., you'll need to stop these daft musical analogies, it's getting tiresome). Finish: of medium length, very nice, soft yet firm at the same time. Comments: Madeira, it must be said, often works well. Very nice edition, rather successful even at 40% ABV.
SGP: 541 - 83 points.

The Deveron 12 yo ‘Sherry Cask’ (40%, OB, +/-2022)

This should be oloroso. I’ve just noticed that there are still many websites writing ‘olorosso’. I'm not quite sure what to make of that, especially since it's been ages since I’ve seen this misspelling on a bottle of Scotch whisky (though in the past, yes, certainly). Colour: amber. Nose: yes, this works too, always so well crafted, balanced, and somewhat inoffensive, with more sultanas this time, pecan pie, raisin rolls, and young rancio... Honestly, it’s a very lovely nose, truly. Mouth: I applaud with both hands, it’s, let’s say, on par with Glenfarclas or Macallan of the same age and range. Figs, tobacco, triple sec, raisin rolls, herbal teas, rooibos, grey pepper... Impeccable. Finish: a bit short but perfect in terms of flavours. Very nice touches of cherry liqueur. Comments: I know I’m repeating myself, but what a shame they didn’t reduce these fine juices to 43% instead of these miserable 40%. We’re not even mentioning 46%, which is becoming a mandatory attribute for brands that are meant to be even slightly ‘premium’.
SGP: 651 - 84 points.

Very impressed with these little Deveron ones, really. The rest will come completely by chance...

Macduff 1978/1994 (40%, James MacArthur, In Celebration of 500 years of Scotch Whisky)

Alright, here I am getting a bit worked up. I've just seen that a bottle like this went for £40 at auction. It reminds me of my favourite French comedian, Coluche, who unfortunately passed away in a motorcycle accident thirty years ago. He used to say, 'You calculate the IQ of a crowd by dividing the IQ of the dumbest by the number of members.' I know JMcA is no longer with us, but it's important to remember they brought us some of the most wonderful malts in the world, like some Caol Ila and Port Ellen. Colour: gold. Nose: sublime. Pollen, beeswax, very ripe apples, honeys, old Sauternes, hay, chamomile, and a drop of old Moutai which alone would fetch the auction price of a pallet of this Macduff. Or nearly so. Mouth: always sublime, with notes of grapefruits and honey. Exactly that, grapefruit and honey. Finish: same sentiments, long, incredible. Waxes, paraffin, lemon, grapefruit, Riesling. Comments: thinking about you Arthur W., thinking about you too, Peter H.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Shall we dare to try some young Cadenhead in this context?

Macduff 13 yo 2006/2020 (46.2%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon barrel, 222 bottles)

From the Covid-stricken winter of 2020. Can you believe some folks are already saying those were the good old days? Colour: pale gold. Nose: light and honeyed, with abundant stale apple juice and hay. It does give the impression of a ‘weak’ cask that's been losing its steam, or rather, its alcohol. Mouth: the same sensations. Finish: the same impressions linger. Comments: for the records.
SGP:441 - 65 points.

Macduff 2009/2022 (63.9%, Signatory Vintage, Kirsch Import, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #900347, 648 bottles)

This one certainly hasn't been losing steam. Calling my lawyer as we speak. Well, he's not picking up, probably still on the golf course. Colour: full gold. Nose: these are light first fills in terms of aromas, but we're absolutely all in on wet chalk, very much in the albariza style. Also finding a box of Partagas cigars. Besides that, we're a bit puzzled by a whisky at 64% vol., you see. With water: patchouli, eucalyptus, rubber, and puncture repair glue. Mouth (neat): butterscotch, Swiss apricot brandy (apricotine) bursting with kernel notes, and very powerful peat (which has no place here, we agree)… I think it's a delightful mess at full strength. With water: back to butterscotch and kirsch, but my word, it's potent! I'm addressing Signatory's management directly—don’t we need special permission from Westminster or Holyrood to store such casks? Isn’t it classified as a WMD? Finish: nearly eternal. Butterscotch and Williams pear. Comments: very difficult to score. What a monster!
SGP:561 - 85 points.

Many distilleries say that drinkers can always dilute their full-strength whiskies to their taste. To me, that's kind of nonsense. Whisky is highly sensitive to dilution and to the way you go about it, as well as to the water you use. I think bottlers should put their necks on the line and offer their whiskies at the strength they believe is ideal. And, of course, carry out the dilution properly and not haphazardly. No saying many do, naturally...

Macduff 13 yo 2010 (61.8%, Tri Carragh, Rubino red Marsala Barrique finish, release 4, 210 bottles, +/-2024)

Matured in wine barrique and reracked (a much better term than "finished", right) in red wine for 15 months. I suppose this wine, sorry, whisky will be all about red berries. Colour: pale gold. Not that red for red wine. Nose: apples, beer, fresh bread, herbal teas, and baker's yeast. I have nothing against red wine in my whisky as long as it's not noticeable. With water: more apples. Mouth (neat): it's good, nothing more to say, cherry stems, green apples, nuts, bell peppers, pepper... With water: quite pleasant. Sour cherries. Finish: long, more herbal. A sweet side. Comments: it's very okay. I’ll need to look into these 'Rubino red Marsala', as I'm not familiar, but that's one of the joys of modern whisky; it introduces you to rather unlikely or unknown wines.
SGP:551 - 81 points.

(S., if we could avoid the cheap wine barrels, that would be great, we can't stand them anymore...)

Macduff 12 yo 2011/2023 (56.9%, Liquid Treasures, Birds & Arts Series, bourbon barrel)

Colour: white wine. Nose: but of course, it's so much more elegant, with honey and pollen, tarte tatin, and praline... With water: fresh brioche, crêpes suzette, maple syrup... Mouth (neat): ripe apples, pepper liqueur, mead... With water: very good, natural, honeyed, quite oily, with a lovely texture. Finish: of medium length, sweet, a bit lemony. Hints of ginger and pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: not much to add, we much prefer this style.
SGP:651 - 86 points.

We'll see if there are any other Macduffs on the way. If we have a majority of wine casks in stock, we might postpone it, as we're rather a little fed up with these improbable in-cask blends.

Check the index of all Macduff we've tasted so far