At the summit of the closed Lowlands


October 18, 2024

WF's Little Duos, today at the summit of the closed Lowlands

That is to say, Rosebank and Littlemill. Rosebank has certainly restarted, but for Littlemill, it’s impossible, as the distillery has been destroyed. Although, I suppose not much could withstand a good few million pounds, but perhaps now isn’t, or no longer is, the ideal time. By the way, no St. Magdalene in the line-up for now, sorry.

Littlemill 28 yo 1991/2019 (49.3%, Cadenhead, Single Cask, for 3rd Anniversary of Whisky & More Hong Kong, barrel)

A Littlemill from its final period, as the distillery was only reopened between 1989 and 1994. There were later plans to revive it, but everything was destroyed by a fire in 2004. It’s worth noting that we’ve often found these late-period Littlemills to be far superior to earlier ones, perhaps due to improvements in the process. What a shame about that fire... Colour: pale straw. Nose: this feels like a slightly more restrained and less exuberantly fruity Littlemill compared to others, leaning instead towards lime peel, cider apple, agave, grape stalks, limestone, and even a touch of polish. There’s a hint of lavender and some very faint soapy notes too. An intriguing nose, though not unheard of in Littlemill. Mouth: the palate confirms that rather austere character, almost reminiscent of some northern coastal distilleries. Chalk, green pepper, soot, paraffin, grape pips, lemon peel, sage, sorrel, and even a slight saline note in the background. Finish: long, pleasantly dry, becoming even more peppery and salty. A touch of tomato leaf in the aftertaste, alongside some exotic fruits that weren’t there earlier—mango and papaya. Comments: a more ‘challenging’ style but one that we really enjoy. Likely a bit divisive, but that’s no problem—there weren’t many bottles to go around anyway.
SGP: 371 - 88 points.

Rosebank 32 yo ‘Release 3’ (47.6%, OB, 2023)

It’s said this whisky was composed from the final three years of production before the distillery’s closure in 1993. This is the last bottling of what we could call a ‘transitional’ series. Colour: straw. Nose: there’s a clear sense of its lineage—it’s triple-distilled, yet with no hint of excessive lightness. This time, there’s a subtle note of aniseed and menthol, almost reminiscent of absinthe, adding to some slightly underripe bananas and faint touches of fresh paint (you can pick the colour). Almond milk as well. Mouth: superb herbal tension, with grape stalks and pips again, a dash of Sriracha sauce, pepper, green apples, equally green pears, and a hint of sour cherries. It unfolds much like the Littlemill—it’s amusing, really—but with just a touch more suppleness, although it still retains that razor-sharp edge. Finish: very long, very lemony, and herbaceous. It brings to mind those legendary Rare Malts. Comments: yes, the Rare Malts indeed. I rather like the somewhat Calvinist austerity of these malts, if I may say so.
SGP: 571 - 90 points.