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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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February 24, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Aultmore and Glenkinchie
Two distilleries on the table today that I rarely try. Although, I have very fond memories of some excellent 1960s Glenkinchies, though I suspect the distillate has changed quite a bit since then. As for Aultmore, it's always been a bit of a low key malt on my radar, a distillery that I don't recall ever trying an example of that I found totally outstanding. |
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Glenkinchie 12 yo (43%, OB, -/+ 2023) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: malty, mashy, beery and easy. Very much as I think of Glenkinchie, which is rather light, grassy, a little buttery and with plenty cereal. Simple and easy to pigeonhole as 'lowland' I would say, which is no bad thing when your distillery is in the Lowlands. Mouth: same feeling. All on sweet cereals, some buttery toasty notes, a little marshmallow, wee grassy inclusions and more malty and beery backbone. Very simple, easy and 'nice'. Finish: a tad short here and with a slight grainy note which perhaps loses one or two points. Some feelings of cider apple and sweetened porridge. Comments: all fine and well. Simple, easy, inoffensive tumbler juice that probably isn't for diehard geeks like me, which is the case for most larger scale malt whiskies I suspect. I think we can safely revisit this bottling in around ten years time.
SGP: 541 - 80 points. |
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Glenkinchie 13 yo 1987/2000 (61.6%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #22.8) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: dusty flowers, shoe polish, talcum powder and a general sense of cupboards, ironing water and linens. The kind of funny and slightly unusual profile that seems increasingly to have been isolated to the doldrum production years of the 1980s. A few wee honeyed and fruity glimmers underneath are rather nice over time though. With water: not much movement, perhaps a little greener with more chlorophyll and crushed flower stems. Mouth: rather sweeter than expected, a very nice combo of flower nectars, runny honey and fruit salad juices of the tinned variety. Easy and pleasant. With water: same story, only with some more baseline notes of plain breakfast cereals, condensed milk and malt syrup. Finish: medium, slightly bitter with citrus piths, more cereals and sweet mash water. Comments: I think you can pretty much forget the nose and go directly to sipping this one from a tumbler glass. Slightly boring, but perfectly easy, pleasing and harmless - probably could be Glenkinchie's motto?
SGP: 541 - 83 points. |
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Aultmore 11 yo 1986/1998 (57.9%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #73.4 'Long and warming…good for sore throats') 
Not sure this title has been NHS approved. Colour: pale straw. Nose: close your eyes, and you could be nosing a cave in a chalk cliff that had been varnished only one or two decades previously. That is to say: only vague hints of aroma are emerging. Plain distillate from plain wood with little to say. With water: hello in there…!? A stray feather duster perhaps? Mouth: there are no flaws at all, it's just that there isn't much in the way of character either. Plain, slightly milky, slightly sweetish and rather spiritous. With water: the flavour of alcohol mixed with rainwater. Comments: Good for sore throats, in the sense that you would not think twice about drowning this within in an inch of its life with lashings of hot water, lemon and honey. Hard to score because in some ways it is completely fine, but in others its absence of character is rather a flaw in and of itself. The SMWS really made some funny selections during this era - 'Aultbore' might have been a more suitable name.
SGP: 341 - 75 points. |
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Aultmore 1974/1988 (50%, Samaroli '20th Anniversary', 540 bottles) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: really on the raw ingredients, lots of breads, cereals, sweet grains and beers, with lovely hints of ripe green fruits in the background such as apple, kiwi and gooseberry. With a little time I find it gets fatter and waxier too, with some olive oil and putty. With water: flattens out a little, mashed banana, some vegetal notes and metal polish. Mouth: rather drying and with a warming mustardy and peppery aspect up front. Still a lot of cereals, breads and ales, perhaps not as luminous as any number of other Samaroli bottlings from this time though. Some dry and waxy qualities as well. With water: plain cereals with a touch of barley extract sweetness and some hints of cardboard and stale beer. Losing steam now quite a bit. Finish: a bit on the short side, similarly cereal and bread and wax dominated. Comments: I wonder if this is one of those whiskies that has just suffered as it has sat in glass, would be fascinating to try it freshly bottled by comparison - in know, a pointless notion. There are of course many, many much better bottlings by Samaroli. Now, it would seem that plenty of other whisky folk rate this much higher than I do, so please take this note with a bushel of salt.
SGP: 351 - 79 points. |
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