Brandy dis-moi oui


February 4, 2024

Brandy, dis-moi oui!

Taulet

At Ferme de Taulet (ROW Spirits)

Well, I must already apologise for this truly cheesy headline, but the opportunity was just too good to miss. It's supposed to be a play on words with a song by a somewhat iconic French band from the 1980s, Rita Mitsouko, which Angus has recently taken a liking to. Anyway, let's move on... We'll try to do this vertically. Oh, and do you know what's great about armagnacs? They are not affected by the epidemic of using unlikely wine casks to enhance whiskies and, increasingly, rums. In short, no cosmetic surgery, no botox, no hyaluronic acid, no fake bottoms in armagnac. Even if some are currently pushing the use of extra-new wood a bit, we're not yet at the point of bourbonisation of armagnac. Aside from that, and generally speaking, the spirits business doesn't really do anything to fight deforestation, but does it have to? It's true that in France and in Europe, forest areas have never been as extensive since the Middle Ages and continue to grow every year. They've even doubled in France since the mid 19th century, with the replacement of charcoal by, well, coal and oil, but everyone thinks otherwise.

Domaine Artigaux 7 yo 2015/2023 'Bogosse' (57.6%, L'Encantada, Bas-armagnac, 2,000 bottles, 2023)

An interesting double-maturation in pedunculate oak and sessile oak from France. This is pure ugni blanc (a.k.a. trebbiano) so possibly towards cognac… Colour: deep gold. Nose: starts pretty acetic and acidic, solventy, closer to some extreme malt whisky perhaps. Some glue, then green apples, then rounder notes, tarte tatin, cider, then liquorice cream… I'm not certain I've ever found as much varnish and apple in an armagnac. And perhaps pears too. With water: it's vanilla that unfolds, shortbread, fudge, tarte tatin indeed... Mouth (neat): it's very strong and it's very good, despite a kind of aggressiveness, this time close to that of a very young bourbon. Again, a lot of varnish, wood glue, nutmeg, as well as applejack... This brutal side has something fascinating about it, as the French Canadians would say (hey?). With water: a pure crème caramel accompanied by green tea. Finish: long and powerful with or without water. A hint of rye and even more new wood in the aftertaste. Comments: a real wrestler that will go up against very young malts and raw bourbons straight from the cask without any complex. Very modern.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

Arton 2013/2022 'La Flamme' (49.5%, OB, Haut-armagnac)

Pure ugni blanc once more. We found the 2011 excellent (WF 86). La Flamme d'Arton is promoted as the second cru of Château Arton, which is a very funny concept in spirits. Young vines? Young armagnacs? Refill wood? Colour: amber. Nose: quite gentle, but once again, there's something modern, almost closer to grain than to grape. I mean, 'almost'. Plenty of fudge, crème brûlée, even flambéed banana, then very ripe apple and orange cake. It's rather fresh and lively on the nose. Mouth: more powerful, also more rustic, quite peppery with some unexpected touches of rose liqueur. A slightly oriental side in this young Haut-Armagnac, a seemingly seldom-used appellation. Turkish delights and mandarins. Finish: of very nice length and now really very fruity, always with that oriental side. We're almost on the banks of the Bosphorus. Comments: one could almost smoke a nargileh while tasting this young Arton. Don't we all have nargilehs in our basements, brought back from a trip to the middle-east and just never used since. No?
SGP:651 - 86 points.

Ferme de Taulet 14 yo 2009/2023 (47. 85%, ROW Spirits, Ténarèze, cask #7, 585 bottles)

Pure ugni blanc once more, this time from Larressingle, a magnificent village in the north of the Gers. Colour: pure gold. Nose: this one's fruitier and more floral, in a way easier, which is certainly not a flaw. Oranges, dandelions, wisteria, jasmine, honeysuckle flowers, tangerines, pink bananas, williams pears, rosewater… You're almost already drinking this one while you're only nosing it, if you see what I mean. Mouth: a real sin, I wonder if I'm going to have to go to confession after finishing my glass. Lots of citrus (but not sour citrus) and an avalanche of all kinds of plums. It's only after a minute or two that the more rustic side of a Ténarèze comes through, with a bit of glue and putty, some wood juice (but of course, there's no woodiness in there), fairly acidic coffee beans... it's amusing, this two-stage aspect. Finish: long, rustic, still with a bit of glue and varnish. That suits it very well. Fruit kernels in the aftertaste, a bit of kirsch... Comments: you can picture it. A Ténarèze to be savoured with a beret on your head (one day we'll create a shop of such essential artefacts on WF).
SGP:652 - 87 points.

Domaine Cutxan 17 yo 2005/2023 (50.2%, L'Encantada, Bas-armagnac, cask #33, 425 bottles)

A very small domaine near Margestau that's never quite been available under this name, as far as I can tell. Colour: full gold. Nose: kougelhopf! I know, that's not very Gersois or Landais, but we're really all on some perfect brioche dough, plus raisins and roasted almonds. Extremely straightforward, compact, lovely. With water: touches of menthol, hay, dried flowers… Mouth (neat): classic fruity armagnac this time. Peaches, mangos, almonds, plums, teas and nuts coated with honey. With water: another sin. Easy (again, that's an asset), with rather many ripe pears and peaches. Finish: of good length, with some maple syrup and some honey, then more bitterish, leafy notes in the aftertaste. Comments: Just pure pleasure here.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Ladevèze 19 yo 2004/2023 (54%, ROW Spirits, Ténarèze, cask #31, 57 bottles)

Some very rare grape varietal here, 'plant de graisse'. I have to confess I had never heard of 'plant de graisse' before, it's also called simply 'graisse' (fat). Colour: pure gold. Nose: and pure Ténarèze, as far as I can tell. It's amusing, and we know the brain works with images, but now I find oil and fat, especially from sunflower and peanut. In the background, peaches and oranges, as well as a few rose petals and white nougat. I must say, I find this quite superb. With water: incredible viscosity, could this be that famous grease? Otherwise, there's cut hay, prairie honey, and very ripe apples. Mouth (neat): very powerful with a very aromatic side, focusing on flowers (jellies and jams) and exotic fruits. This one has the most mango so far. Oh, what we wouldn't do for mango! With water: once again, it moves a bit towards a young Cognac, but we won't complain. Peach and honey in all their glory. Finish: long, perfectly balanced. A small, appropriate herbaceous tension in the aftertaste, as often (grape skin). Comments: excellent, it's a pity there are so few bottles.
SGP:661 - 89 points.

Aurian 20 yo 2003/2023 (47.6%, Maltbarn, armagnac, barrique #38)

A merchant's release with rather scant details, but in any case, here's the most beautiful label in a long while. They should exhibit them at contemporary art fairs and sell signed bottles for tens of thousands of Euros. After all, it is said that art is not meant to be useful but is intended for contemplation rather than action. Consequently, we're not going to taste this armagnac. I'm jesting, right. Colour: gold. Nose: a few notes of flint to start, even a tiny bit of smoke, then peaches and pears at the bottom of the rim of the glass, even rose and lychee, and a bit of varnish and foliage at the top of the same glass. Indeed, I would remind you that all spirits or even wine don't smell the same depending on whether you place your nose at the top or bottom of the rim, it's a matter of lighter or heavier molecules. Mouth: it's almost terrifying how fruity it is. Mango is back, peach of course, but also papaya, normally ripened pineapple and blood orange. All this is topped off with juicy sultanas and orange blossom honey. Finish: not immensely long but wonderfully fruity. Bitterness in the aftertaste: close to zero. Comments: I would be curious to know if there is a blend behind this magnificent baby, or if it's a 'constant' single cask from somewhere.
SGP:751 - 90 points.

Domaine d'Espérance 2001/2022 (49%, OB, Bas-armagnac, folle blanche, cask #71)

This, you understand, was produced by the Count and Countess de Montesquiou-Fezensac d'Artagnan, in Mauvezin d'Armagnac. Dieu pour guide et l'épée pour compagne! Colour: rich gold. Nose: nothing warlike here, this is an armagnac in all gentleness, with numerous honeys (which is very different from a multifloral honey), honeysuckle, orange blossom, fresh panettone, a few drops of agave syrup, and even cane... It's very, very beautiful and devoid of any rusticity, with even a slightly muscat-like edge. Nothing like the highly acidic white grapes that have actually been used. Mouth: everything is perfect here, the aromatic profile of the nose is found again, plus a slight toasted aspect and more coffee. It's a bit less lively than the Aurian, but on the same high level for me. Finish: rather long, on honey, orange, and tobacco. I had tasted, a long time ago, a tobacco ice cream that had been sublime, this armagnac somewhat reminds me of that. Comments: different styles but the same very high quality as that of Maltbarn. Also a bit of bitter orange.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Well, that concludes the first part of our vertical, with only young armagnacs distilled after the year 2000. If all goes well, we'll have much older ones next time.

(Merci à armagnac.de)

Check the index of all agmagnacs we've tasted so far