Clynelish is back on the tasting desk


January 18, 2024

Clynelish is back on the tasting desk and more about that 'gunge'

I agree it was about time. Let us proceed.

(Part of a very old map of Scottish distilleries. While Clynelish is fortunately still in operation and even in top form, the small Pollo, located on the Cromarty Firth and owned by the same proprietors as Balblair, was closed in 1903. I fear that we may never have the chance to taste pure Pollo.)

Clynelish 10 yo 'The Jazz Crescendo' (57.5%, OB, Special Release 2023, First-fill ex-bourbon American oak)

Two of my favourite things in life, Clynelish and jazz, connected in a bottle of whisky! The label seems to show a young Sonny Rollins playing the trumpet in a rather 'Miles' stance (trumpet heavily pointing downwards), an unusual sight indeed but why not? One day I'll tell you about the time I almost had an argument with Dizzy Gillespie and Clark Terry at a Miles Davis concert at the Nice festival, but that's a story for another time… Yes, I know, I've already promised I'd tell it. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite an unusual nose, initially on adhesives and varnishes, then on dough, cut grass, and apple peel. Water should awaken all this (in lieu of using a trumpet). With water: the proverbial wax, absent at cask strength, suddenly comes out of the woodwork, so to speak. It becomes both simple and beautiful at once. Old apples, beeswax, tangerine peel. Palate (neat): it's very tense, very lemony and on green apple, with a bit of cane sugar and quite a bit of green tea. Citrus liqueur but no wax so far. With water: water works miracles, here is a pure Clynelish, taut, without frills. Finish: long, fresh, and, you guessed it, on wax, citrus, and apple. Comments: water is mandatory here, without any this baby Clynelish remains hidden in its shell.
SGP:652 - 88 points.

Clynelish 2013/2023 (53.7%, Hidden Spirits, 10th Anniversary, refill hogshead)

We must remember that Hidden Spirits gave us one of the most beautiful Clynelishes of recent years, a 1992/2019 at 50.1% (WF 94). Colour: pale gold. Nose: here too, the wax remains very discreet, giving way to a bit of varnish (but much less than in the SR) and to notes of ultra-taut white wine, riesling or sauvignon blanc, with a very little bit of coconut and maybe three or four well-peppered winkles. And iodine. That's for the maritime side. With water: a lot of coconut liqueur, it's almost like super-premium Malibu. Wait, 2013, no that's not right, Malibu was sold by Diageo before that to Allied, who then passed it on to the current owners, Pernod-Ricard. I also find touches of gewurztraminer (rose, lychee). Palate (without water): very, very good, this time the beeswax expresses itself immediately, alongside citron, pink grapefruit, and a small touch of not-so-ripe mango. With water: magnificent, with a salty touch this time. And a lot of citrus. A very classic young Clynelish. My God, I still love Clynelish so much, it seems. Finish: long, a bit peppery again. More citrus and beeswax. Comments: for lovers of Clynelish.
SGP:662 - 90 points.

Clynelish 16 yo 2006/2023 (51.7%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask for the Ardnahoe Shop, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #HL20589)

I'm not sure this one's already out. It's a Ardnahoe-only bottle, I suppose they'll have it for Feis Ile at the latest. Colour: white wine. Nose: a profile that's obviously similar, only a little more coastal, more on iodine and seawater, fresh almonds and amaretti as well, and with a wax that's already there. Having said that I'm finding faint hints of rose petals this time again. With water: hints of caraway, otherwise a rather more floral Clynelish this time. A lovely one, no need to say. Mouth (neat): a bit more rustic, citrusy, leafy and almost acidic than the 2013, but we keep flying high, as they say. Touches of bananas and mangos. With water: back on flower syrups, mullein, woodruff, acacia, agastache (new descriptor on WF, hurray), then beeswax. After all, bees need flowers to produce their wax. Finish: medium, the bananas being back. Touch of peppermint. Don't drown in water. Comments: fantastic Clynelish once more.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Clynelish 25 yo 1997/2023 (47.5%, Dougls Laing, Xtra Old Particular, Black Series, LMDW New Vibrations, refill hogshead, cask #DL16314, 129 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: we have a Clynelish that is much softer, much more on ripe banana, very gentle spices, old ointments, a very old bottle of Verveine du Velay, Arquebuse (has anyone tasted Arquebuse?) followed by very light tobacco, a bit of hay, even straw, and very ripe mirabelles. Not extremely typical, perhaps, but absolutely charming. Palate: it could be another distillery, I wonder if it was around this time that Clynelish had thoroughly cleaned its receivers and thus eradicated all the 'gunge' that gives the distillate its proverbial waxy side. In any case, even if it could be another distillery, it's a tremendous malt, soft, complex, very elegant, with honey rather than beeswax, almond paste, very ripe apples and pears, serviceberry liqueur... All this is really very pretty. Finish: medium length, refined, more on almonds and pistachios. Also reminiscent of a very high-quality amaro. A salty hint at the very end of the finish. Comments: quite sublime. I forgot to tell you that the citrus comes back for a second encore on your palate after two or three minutes.
SGP:661 - 89 points.

How about we quickly wrap up with one or two 'Secret Highlands' which leave little doubt about their real origin?

Distilled at a Highland Distillery 12 yo 2011/2023 (58.9%, Watt Whisky, barrel, 252 bottles)

They never use clues at Watt Whisky, you know, like writing 'The cat's in the bag' or putting the picture of Bastet, the Egyptian cat goddess of the second dynasty. In Campbeltown, a secret is a secret. Colour: pale gold. Nose: the return of the wax! And banana peels, but in moderation. And fresh almonds, bread crumbs, candied lemon… With water: a bit of iodine, dough, baker's yeast… They almost make us doubt! Palate (neat): very fresh, coastal and lemony. It's true that there aren't loads of wax on the palate, rather orange liqueur with a bit of salt and a touch of dill. Mirabelle brandy, too, with a rather oily texture. With water: and yet yes, there is wax, orange peel, a bit of sea water, iodine, small flat oysters, lemon, Sancerre… Finish: quite long, graceful, salty, lemony, and yes, with quite a bit of wax. Comments: don't we always say that the first impression is the right one? This young baby has improved from start to finish.
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Good, a last one…

Highland Single Malt 22 yo 1996/2018 (54.7%, C. Dully Selection, refill bourbon barrel, batch #CD1-18, 342 bottles)

Why haven't we tasted this one yet? Colour: pale gold. Nose: little doubt here. Quite ripe banana, beeswax, blood oranges, very fresh nougat, and since we're in Provence now, one of those magnificent little pink olives (the name of which I've forgotten, shame on me). With water: a bit of pine resin, and a little rosemary liqueur. Have you ever tasted that? Palate (neat): excellent, totally excellent. Marzipan, amaretti, candied orange zest, Catalan cream, banana jam, and beekeeper's chewing gum. That's like biting into a comb of honey-filled wax. It's incredible, especially when there's a slight bituminous and resinous edge from the propolis. With water: pure Clynelish, now more on small citrus fruits. Finish: long, spicier, a bit 'masala'. Ripe bananas and chamomile make a comeback afterwards. Comments: be careful, it goes down very easily and it's still 54.7% vol. On the other hand, everything has probably been sold – and no doubt consumed – during the previous decade, so no danger.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Check the index of Clynelish we've tasted so far

		Clynelish's wax
		Unlike most other distilleries, Clynelish separates low wines and feints in different tanks/receivers, leading to the formation of different types of deposits (technically known as 'gunge') in these tanks and in the spirit still chargers. These gunges actually coat the inside of the distillery's vessels, affecting subsequent batches and, combined, are essential in creating Clynelish's most distinctive waxy character. It is said that after some heavy cleaning of those gunges had been done, in the late 1980s or early 1990s, blenders started to complain because the much expected waxy profile had been suddenly lost. The gunges have thus never been totally removed again. (Thank you N.)