Excellent, excellent cognacs and armagnacs


June 9, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

No duds today, only excellent, excellent cognacs and armagnacs

A few very nice cognacs, or armagnacs, or both... We're sticking to proper malternatives, alright? So we're avoiding the big brands of blends that can certainly offer nice releases, but as soon as we see crystal decanters or over-packaging, we know it's not worth it. We'll see... In any case, we're going to be a bit rebellious this time; as we won't consider vintages, ages, or alcohol content.

Dartigalongue 2003/2024 (46%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #419, 524 bottles)

We have already tasted a splendid 1981 from this latest delivery by the renowned house of Dartigalongue. Colour: dark gold. Nose: It begins with a touch of fresh marzipan with orange, accompanied by a curious smoky note in the background. We're talking wood smoke, not peat! It then transitions to chestnut honey, which is quite different from other honeys and one I adore, followed by a hint of yellow curry paste, distinctly 'Madras'. One could almost dip poppadums into it. A superb nose, efficient, not too complex, and quite sexy (yes, I dare say it, once again). Mouth: I still dare, it tastes like a blend of cognac (let's say 80%) and agricole rum, in the style of J.M. (so 20%). No, I'm not joking, and yes, I believe it comes from the cask. Cedar wood, pencil shavings, borage and honeysuckle, sweet paprika, bitter orange liqueur, nutmeg… It may confuse you a bit, but in return, it's simply excellent. Finish: rather long, with sweet spices and ginger, and an oily texture that lingers. The soft curry paste remains at the forefront. Comments: Serve it blind to your 'know-it-all' guests. Like you and me, ha.
SGP:661 - 88 points.

Domaine de Mouréou 2011/2024 (48.2%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-armagnac)

We're in Mauléon d'Armagnac. The small but engaging bottlers call this small batch 'The Funky', so one expects Daft Punk to show up. Colour: gold. Nose: not too far off from the 2003, really, once again with that exotic/smoky/spicy profile they're calling 'funky'. There's citron liqueur, a hint of turmeric, grated mandarin peel, broom, pistachio syrup, and just a tiny touch of peach. It's quite new wave (OK, funky), and we absolutely love it 'because one doesn't always want to taste the same spirit'. Mouth: it's pure coincidence that we're tasting this one right after the 2003, I promise, but it stays in the same cluster, with this Indian or Indonesian (but ultra-mild 'for Caucasians') flavour packed with almond paste, sesame, peanut butter (and satay), turmeric, and ginger, all perfectly balanced by the citrus. No raisins, surprisingly. Finish: long and even spicier. Could it have been from a 'return from Pondisherry' cask? (diving to newer lows, S.) The aftertaste makes you feel like you've bitten into a big chunk of candied ginger. Comments: an Armagnac (I checked, it really is an Armagnac) that truly shakes things up. We wanted malternatives, and we got them.
SGP: 562- 88 points.

Domaine de Poutéou 23 yo 1999/2023 (44.9%, Alabat, Bas-armagnac, cask #327)

I find these labels truly beautiful. Ask an AI to create this, and you'll break the internet. Colour: dark gold. Nose: it's funny, this time we're venturing into great bourbon territory, with quality varnish and wood glue, very ripe peaches and pears, vanilla, and touches of coconut wine, butterscotch, then a couple of mint leaves, praline, and a square of white chocolate… Absolutely perfect, though much more classic than the previous two, in the end. Mouth: again, that gluey side we love (which almost no one understands, but never mind, we'll end up totally misunderstood, sob). Then bitter almonds, apple peels, some root vegetable notes, carrots, then more tinned peaches leading us straight to very classic sultanas and prunes. Well, one prune. Excellent. Finish: long, quite fresh, more honeyed, but always perfectly tense. Varnish returns in the aftertaste. Comments: in fact, these new-wave, slightly 'deviant' Armagnacs wander into the territories of malts like the coastal ones, Ben Nevis, Clynelish, Springbank… We're not complaining!
SGP: 651 - 89 points.

Le Déménageur 'Lot 66' (46.4%, Malternative Belgium, Grand champagne, 234 bottles, 2024)

I just wonder how Belgium could be 'malternative' with all the beer they produce. Hey, just kidding! This is supposed to be a 'reflection of the past overtaken by the high speed of the present', which I find very cool. Colour: deep gold. Nose: back to a classic profile, with cooked peaches and honey, touches of eucalyptus and mint, liquorice, figs, and very mild pepper… In fact, I don't think you can get more classic than this. Mouth: no sensation of advanced age, lively fruitiness, honey, pollen, herbal teas, high-quality green tea (Taiwan, thanks again friends) and apples cooked in Sauternes. Yes, really. Finish: not very long but with a magnificent mentholated liquorice. Comments: I don't think there's much to say, it's just totally excellent, fresh, almost thirst-quenching (that's the dangerous part). Please when you pour yourself a glass, then put the bottle at a safe distance, and only then do you dip your lips for the first taste. Is that clear?
SGP: 651 - 90 points.

Tiffon 'Lot 90' (47.8%, Grape of the Art, Petite champagne, 222 bottles, 2024)

Colour: light amber. Nose: the return of wood glue and varnish, cider apple, then gooseberry, nail polish, fallen leaves, moss, parsley juice (we love it), old chardonnay, banana skin… It's going in several directions at once, even towards calvados (calvados on WF soon!). Yet it's a whole, which is amusing. Mouth: total pleasure, with more wood this time, of course, but also plenty of white and yellow fruits, and even green ones. A bit of acidity wrapped in honey and spices (turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg). Finish: long, spicy, quite 'trans', with a lovely herbal, apple, and varnish profile in the aftertaste. And calvados, and finally sultanas. Comments: a slight grassy note that will be perfect for the next European Football Championship. In fact, we couldn't care less, we'll just keep this excellent cognac.
SGP: 561 - 88 points.

Bord de Mer 30 yo (49%, Jean-Luc Pasquet, Borderies, 2024)

Everything is so sweet here. Bord de Mer, that smells like holidays, with a little white wine and oysters. And this cognac… Colour: full gold. Nose: we find the slightly more rustic side of cognac, which is no displeasure as it brings us even closer to malts. Nougat and touches of fino, sending us, indeed, to the seaside (I dare not use the word manzanilla again, lest you think I'm paid by the Consejo Regulador – wait, there's an idea!), then apples, a hint of mustard, fruit and vegetable peels, a floral touch (geranium, but very moderate)… In fact, it's mostly very elegant. A rustic elegance, in the style of Country Life. Mouth: much more direct on the palate, spicier, peppery, almost bitter (in a good way), even more on those peels (aubergine, apple, courgette), then the citrus takes over, with that slightly metallic side we quite like (copper). Finish: sweet but herbal, makes you want to consume it like wine, even diluted with water. Comments: but then, with oysters, why not? One extra point just for that.
SGP: 561 - 90 points.

Since we're talking about romantic and poetic names...

Liaison Intime 'Lot 75 & Très Vieux Fins Bois' (45%, Vallein Tercinier, Fins bois, 2024)

I'm not even sure I want to translate the expression 'Liaison Intime' for you. It's true that in Low German (or Alsatian), it wouldn't have the same charm. And in English, it would sound like a cheap Netflix series. Colour: gold. Nose: very straight, on vineyard peaches and white chocolate. A minimalist side that we like a lot. A tiny hint of ink and charcoal smoke in the background, almost undetectable. Mouth: totally 'ligne claire' (clear line), dill, liquorice, verbena, genepy, green apple juice. Almost an abstract style, actually. Finish: long and, this time, broader in terms of aromas, but still quite abstract, cerebral, almost like Chinese calligraphy painted with liquorice. And why not? Comments: the complexity and diversity of cognac only really start to appear after a lot of experience, I'm afraid. In fact, it's not a very 'mainstream' thing, is it? As for me, I consider myself halfway there (it's good to have goals in life). And, as usual, the first half of the journey is the easiest.
SGP: 461 - 90 points.

One last one, but there will be more next week...

Famille Cabanne 'Lot 50' (44.2%, The Roots, Petite champagne, 2023)

The Roots, a very fine house, although the name does sound a bit like a Jamaican reggae band from around 1975 (hey, we can joke a little, can't we?). Joking aside, it is a Famille Cabanne that has been our favourite cognac/armagnac of recent months (Lot 19, Whisky Jury, WF 94). Colour: deep gold. Nose: intensely fruity, fresh and cooked, especially banana, then chamomile, fresh nougat, Earl Grey tea (indicating the arrival of wood), and damp earth, sand, and fallen leaves… It's distinguished and elegant, almost a bit discreet. Mouth: it's really lovely, delicate indeed, with very obvious but fine wood, on herbal teas, banana skin, all accompanied by farmhouse cider and a touch of varnish. You can feel the 70 years without really feeling them, so to speak, despite a slightly green(ish) woodiness starting to grow. Finish: medium length, held by citrus, but the wood is persistent. Some mint. Comments: the balance is a bit fragile in my humble opinion, it's excellent but the wood was probably on an upward curve when the maturation was interrupted. But isn't that often the case?
SGP: 561 - 87 points.

We told you, we were only going to have the very best today. In any case, only the finest cognacs or armagnacs reach us; we make absolutely no effort to get hold of anything mediocre, and the big houses aren't foolish (or they wouldn't have grown big, would they?). To summarise, only a small portion of cognacs or armagnacs are truly 'malternative'. You might say it's the same for rums, for example, a category where there are still far more poor-quality products – but also utter gems. Hasta luego.

Check the index of all cognac and armagnac we've tasted so far