For a Few More Lowlands


November 11, 2024

For a Few More Lowlands

When you think that at one time there were barely more than Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie still in operation. Thank goodness there are now far more Lowland whiskies, though the one we continue to miss with desperate longing is St Magdalene. Let’s take a look at what we have and, most importantly, no more than one expression per distillery, just this once.

Daftmill 12 yo 2011/2023 ‘Summer Batch Release’ (46%, OB, 1st fill bourbon barrels, 6,550 bottles)

Twenty-seven bourbon casks were involved here, which might explain why this release is still around over a year post-launch. Or perhaps it’s that rather ‘2023’ price tag, a touch optimistic. I do appreciate how they label themselves as ‘a seasonal distillery’. Colour: pale gold. Nose: beautifully deep, somewhat fermentative, with melon sorbet, papaya, custard, and small pink and blue bananas dusted with crushed chalk. Not the first time I’ve thought Daftmill has a nose reminiscent of a Western Chichibu. Mouth: very pleasant, if not as ultra-precise as their single casks, yet those slightly green spices and champagne-like yeasts work a treat. It then veers towards bubblegum and pear-and-pineapple-flavoured jellybeans. Finish: a hint of anticipated limoncello, duly delivered. A touch of fresh herbs and green tea round things off nicely. Comments: I really do enjoy this large batch, which evokes youthful Rosebanks on the palate, as often.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Rosebank? That’s a good idea. It’s true that we’ve had quite a bit of Rosebank lately...

Rosebank 32 yo 1991/2024 (51.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #2114, 141 bottles)

This venerable 1991 probably adds another gem to a lineage that has proven exceptional at various ages. Colour: gold. Nose: unmistakably Rosebank in its elegant fruitiness, though comparisons with other greats come to mind. Glorious waves of mangoes and passion fruits lead the charge, followed by fragrant orange blossom and ripe yellow melon. A bright zestiness of lemons and tangerines emerges, interwoven with acacia honey, a hint of chalk, and the comforting flakiness of fresh croissants. Simplicity belies brilliance here, with an almost dazzling precision that makes one muse that such barrels could endure yet another 32 years—alas, not this one. With water: a more fermentative edge, offering notes of freshly baked bread, a whiff of gueuze, and lemony hops. Mouth (neat): a strikingly clear and zesty profile persists, seemingly untouched by age. A vivid array of citron, lemon zest, and grapefruit pulp dances alongside a drizzle of acacia honey and a soft touch of rosehip tisane, which gently rounds the edges. It’s surprising to think this came from a first fill bourbon cask, given its elegant restraint reminiscent of a refined refill. With water: it becomes herbaceous, with pronounced fresh bread notes, before grapefruit asserts itself more boldly. Finish: long, with a remarkable and lively tension for its age—pure Rosebank in essence. Comments: it would be intriguing to see a real expert write a few lines on the lifespan expectations of a whisky at birth, factoring in both cask and distillate.
SGP:661 - 90 points.

Since we were talking about fruits...

Littlemill 27 yo 1988/2016 (57.3%, Alambic Classique, Rare & Old Selection, dark sherry cask, cask #16305, 153 bottles)

Ah, back when we called sherried whiskies simply ‘dark’ or ‘pale’—none of that ‘ex-bodega amontillado-seasoned rejuvenated hogshead’ business. Those were indeed simpler, better days, weren't they? Colour: a rich cognac amber. Nose: Earl Grey tea, but not just any—an exceptional one. The classic, exuberant fruitiness of these Littlemill vintages intertwines seamlessly with the sherry, placing us right at the counter of a patisserie in the early morning. Warm pain aux raisins, orange cake, lemon cookies, and even brie (the patisserie, not the cheese) soaked in kirsch. That’s a personal favourite, for those who mind my birthday is 20th September. Subtle notes of shrivelled grape berries, like a vin de paille. With water: a refreshing turn with limestone, lemon, and crisp green apple, suggesting a firming up. Mouth (neat): an indulgence, pure and simple. The distillate shines with a sharp, almost gritty lemon that’s utterly enchanting—the finest lemon essence we've had in ages. With water: a return to a more refined palate, perfectly balanced with citrus and sultanas. Finish: long, cheerful, and fruit-laden, featuring pink grapefruit and a delightful touch of honey, with that Earl Grey making a final, graceful appearance. Has the sherry bowed out? Comments: immensely enjoyable and deceptively drinkable. Beware!
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Dalrymple 11 yo 2012/2024 (57.1%, Watt Whisky, blended malt, hogshead, 194 bottles)

Dalrymple is a trade name for Ailsa Bay, and while our experience with this distillate is limited, a superb Dalrymple from Tri Carragh once left a strong impression. The official Ailsa Bay releases, however, have often been as cold as a North Sea flounder – if I may. Colour: pale gold. Nose: delightful, with an intriguing mix of tequila and gentian—no jest here. Ripe pear and apple follow, creating a harmonious bouquet. A touch of medicinal quality emerges, accompanied by green walnuts and a hint of mustard. With water: develops towards a fine fino sherry. Mouth (neat): very good indeed! Green apple, fir smoke, plasticine, Sichuan pepper, mustard, mezcal, and radish—spicy with a slight bite. With water: the fruitiness becomes more pronounced, but a peppery edge also takes hold. An unusual mix of sultanas and white pepper surprises the palate. Finish: long, with smoke overlaying those peppered sultanas, making for a slightly more challenging conclusion. Comments: the peat runs subtly throughout, never dominating but always present. A complex and captivating dram, perfect for a blind guessing game among friends.
SGP:465 – 87 points.

We’ll finish off with a little independent Auchentoshan...

Auchentoshan 15 yo 2007/2024 (55.7%, Lady of the Glen, Ruby Port finish, cask #4204)

A triple-distilled dram with a ruby port finish, which could indeed evoke a lively fairground. The use of ruby port is always intriguing, considering it typically ages for only a brief period in large, well-worn casks to maintain the wine's fresh, fruity character. One would be surprised if any genuine ruby port casks were employed for maturing or seasoning Scotch. But the proof, as they say, is in the pudding... Colour: apricot. Nose: predictably fresh and fruity, leading with peach, greengages, cherries, and a hint of raspberry eau-de-vie. Rather delightful, though it leans towards an assembled or pre-mixed vibe. With water: herbal notes and leafy undertones emerge, integrating into the profile. Mouth (neat): a lively mix of budding twigs, fruit skins, cherries, apples, pink pepper, and grapefruit – water is almost a necessity here. With water: it develops into a pleasing concoction with shades reminiscent of an Apérol or Campari, perfect for a potential spritz. Finish: fairly long, carrying cherries and green pepper. Comments: not entirely the signature Auchentoshan markers one might seek, but certainly superior to the distillery’s NAS finishes. Ah, those red Bordeaux woods!
SGP:651 – 81 points.