Glen Spey x 3


December 6, 2024

Glen Spey x 3

As part of our special programme, "Supporting Distilleries That Are All Too Often Overlooked", we’ll be tasting three young Glen Spey once again. It must be said, we’re keeping up a good pace—we’ve already sampled 80 since the start of this lousy website!

Glen Spey 12 yo (43%, OB, Flora & Fauna, +/-2024)

One of the malts found in J&B, and one we tend to revisit roughly every decade. Let’s hope Diageo keeps this little gem in their portfolio, as the tiny goldcrest (Regulus regulus) mascot on the label is simply delightful. Fun fact: it’s said that Michael Jackson was the one who suggested the name 'Flora & Fauna' to UDV (pre-Diageo). Colour: white wine. Nose: not the sort to summon the entire whisky universe, but it seems better than before, with a rather charming fruity nose of ripe apple and yellow melon, followed by cake batter and a touch of wheat beer. Fruitier than I recall, which is a pleasant surprise. Mouth: quite good, though perhaps less compact and harmonious than ideal. A touch fermentary and rooty (think salsify), but lifted by notes of greengages, cider, and beer. Fresh almonds lend a mildly bitter edge. Finish: not overly long, with a slightly herbal and waxier profile emerging. Very ripe apples return in the aftertaste, giving a nice echo. Comments: I’d say it’s improved since last time, and that goldcrest is just so endearing. To be honest, we don’t really know if it’s an old batch they’re selling off bit by bit, in which case the changes would come from ageing in the bottle, or if they’re still producing new batches from time to time.
SGP:441 - 79 points.

Glen Spey 10 yo 2012/2022 (54.6%, Lady of the Glen, ex-wine barrique, cask #800062, 311 bottles)

Admirable, really, that an independent bottler has the audacity to shine a light on such an unassuming distillery as Glen Spey. Let us sing their praises to the rafters, barrique be damned! Colour: straw. Nose: hurrah, not a jot of vinosity! Instead, apples, apples, and yet more apples, which suits us fine as we’re rather fond of the things. “Eat apples!” as Chirac would have said. A splash of water? Why not. With water: a touch of shoe polish and fresh rubber (tyres for Tesla), then bitter almonds before it fades a little on the nose. Mouth (neat): delightful! Grapefruit, citron, Spanish apple liqueur (masters of the craft, those Spaniards), and lashings of ripe papaya. What fun this is. With water: shifts sweetly towards candied treats, with a subtle edge of pepper and a faint nod to mezcal. Finish: long and fairly sweet—was it a sweet wine cask, perhaps? Comments: a splendid surprise, this young Glen Spey. The choice of a wine barrique, dare I say it, was a stroke of genius this time—or perhaps I’m overstating things.
SGP: 651 - 85 points.

Glen Spey 2011/2024 (56%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24005, 305 bottles)

After a parade of brilliant recent ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland, it’s rather grounding to dip into something a touch more down-to-earth—or so one assumes. Let’s see, shall we? Colour: full gold. Nose: this one opens with a whiff of shoe polish, soon transitioning to candle wax, waxed apple skins, fresh almonds, and a spritz of good kirsch—the kind that reminds you how marvellous kirsch can be. Then on to cherry-flavoured Belgian beer (kriek, naturally). With water: metal polish joins in, alongside some fresh rhubarb. Mouth (neat): orange and pistachio cake take the lead, wrapped in a swirl of spices—aniseed, pepper, cinnamon. It’s like a tray of Christmas biscuits, perfectly timed for the season. With water: just as anticipated, speculoos appear, pairing wonderfully with that iconic Belgian cherry beer. My Belgian friends remain baffled that I enjoy such things, but I love cherries. Finish: medium length, the flavours grow a touch more disparate and lean towards the herbal, but no harm done. Comments: an international scandal, losing two points at the finish line! Still a delightful dram, mind.
SGP: 551 - 84 points.

Check the index of all Glen Spey we've tasted so far