
October 16, 2024

Grand New Macallans

You don't see them much at festivals anymore, but independent bottlers are keeping the flame alive for whisky enthusiasts. In the meantime, we’ll just have a little aperitif that we still had on hand, a small NAS with a relatively moderate alcohol content... Oh, and happy anniversary, Macallan!

Macallan ‘Edition No.5’ (48.5%, OB, 260,000 bottles, 2019)

A series that passed somewhat under the radar over at WF, despite the staggering number of bottles. It’s true that I found No.4 rather lacklustre (WF 79), while Angus seemed to enjoy No.6 rather a bit more (WF 85). But nothing to write home about, really—just part of the story with many NAS whiskies of the time, and NAS tends to mean "odd story." Here, it’s all about a new Pantone colour, which strikes me as quite, well, ecclesiastical (the colour, not the story). Now, let’s see if the spirit itself is divine... Colour: gold. Nose: caramel and slightly burnt nuts and almonds, with a touch of char and rubber coming through, followed by new leather and hardwood shavings (walnut, cherry, that sort of thing). Also, some green walnuts, shoe polish, allspice, and a bit of orange peel. Not bad at all. Mouth: very much in line with the nose, with a rather bitter and peppery sherried side, plus some acidic, bitter coffee (which we like), then mixed spices and raw cinnamon. The green walnuts remain upfront, and we do quite like that bitterness. Finish: long, becoming nuttier but still spicy. Ginger and turmeric, with bitter oranges and a touch of Cynar in the aftertaste. Comments: really not bad at all, and it loves a splash of water, even though that bitterness would persist. Very modern, with that spicy edge.
SGP: 361 – 84 points.

Macallan 19 yo 2005/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (56.5%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW Foundations, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #22606305, 343 bottles)

We’ve had some truly lovely Speymalts before! Colour: gold. Nose: unsurprisingly more powerful, with an earthier profile. There's plenty of tobacco, soot, paraffin, wax, and a touch of liquorice and camphor, plus a hint of coconut. But otherwise, not too dissimilar just yet. With water: now it’s very different, with green tea, menthol cigarettes, and thuja wood creeping in. Mouth (neat): rather rich, yet still quite fresh, likely due to those notes of pine sap, lime, alfalfa, fern, and eucalyptus lozenges… Certainly an unusual Macallan. With water: there we go, we’ve cracked it. Lemon, mint, eucalyptus, fir honey, and tobacco… It’s lovely, just very unusual. Finish: long, with a return of liquorice wood and fir wood. There’s an Amontillado and minty quality lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: Amontillado and mint, that’s it. This must be spectacular in a highball, though it might be a bit of a sacrilege, wouldn’t it?
SGP: 461 – 89 points.

Macallan 27 yo 1997/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (59.7%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW Foundations, refill sherry hogshead, cask #4356, 140 bottles)

G&M have always had the knack for maintaining these impressively high ABVs, and I doubt it's due to cling film, central heating in the warehouses, or some strict humidity control (in Scotland, no less!). Must be something else... Any ideas? Colour: full gold. Nose: forget it, this is perfect—simple and precise, with walnuts, mint, and radishes. No room for flowery descriptions today (flowery descriptions, S.?). With water: oh, now we’ve got rhubarb tarte and even more radishes. Mouth (neat): a beast that takes control of your palate, tongue, lips, gums, and probably other things too (no, not that). Big pepper, walnuts, turmeric, Seville oranges… Water feels ab-so-lute-ly essential. With water: it spreads across your palate with about twenty times more flavour—fruits, peels, tars, peppers, zesty honeys, walnuts, citrus... Truly, it’s a tribute to the joys of adding water during a tasting. You’re right, especially at nearly 60% ABV. Finish: very long, peppery, and honeyed. Comments: very decent without water, magical with it.
SGP: 561 – 91 points (with water, that is).

UPDATE Regarding very high ABV levels after many years of maturation, and despite the possibility of a very hot and dry location in a warehouse (even in Scotland!), our friend Wouter suggests that large independent bottlers who order new fillings directly from distilleries can, in some cases, obtain new-make spirit that is either undiluted or reduced to much higher strengths than the traditional 63.5% ABV. For example, 70% ABV. In this case, even if alcohol loss is significant over the years, the bottling strength can remain notably high if no or very mild dilution is applied before bottling. Makes sense, doesn’t it? Thanks, Wouter!

Marketing Malt 15 yo 2008/2024 (57.1%, Whisky-Sponge, Decadent Drinks, #88)

We’re not entirely sure this Marketing Malt is Macallan, despite the clear visual nods to those old G&M bottlings. Honestly, we’re torn between Macallan, Ardbeg, and Dalmore… But of course, ‘marketing’ couldn’t possibly be a dirty word, could it? It is Macallan. Colour: deep gold. Nose: chocolate, tobacco, bitter orange, walnut liqueur, then morels and moss. Even a hint of black truffle, perhaps, but without any sulphury edge. With water: the chocolate and coffee really take centre stage, both in full-on roast mode. Mouth (neat): quite a bit of varnish, old walnuts, pine needles, and Jaeger*****r… It’s got a lot to say, as they say. With water: leather, tobacco, and old ham emerge. Lovely ham fat, with that subtle nutty quality. Maybe not the best dram for vegans, to be fair. Finish: long, more earthy, but also a touch lighter at the same time. Comments: an old-school malt that reminds us of the old 10 yo 100 proof from around 1990/1995. Some dram, that one—probably not exactly ‘sharp’ 10 years old though.
SGP: 561 – 90 points.

Macallan ‘Over 30 yo’ 1991/2024 (55.9%, LMDW, Artist #14, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #14622, 89 bottles)

Macallan ‘Over 30 yo’ 1991/2024 (55.2%, LMDW, Artist #14, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #14622, 89 bottles)

Back in the day, people would pounce on ex-bourbon Macallans like fleas on an old tomcat, as they were rare, with the distillery mostly focused on sherry casks—which, of course, built its reputation. So, this one’s a bit different... Colour: gold. Nose: oh yes, peanuts, sunflower seeds, bark, fresh mastic, linseed oil, and quince paste... love that! With water: a walk through the woods—moss, mushrooms, sap, old stumps, ancient lichen, then ink and damp, old paper. Mouth (neat): much cleaner, very herbal and lemony, quite spectacular, and very unusual. Dill, grapefruit, sage, basil... With water: superb, bringing back mint, chervil, verbena, anise, absinthe, and chalk... It almost feels like absinthe from the 1880s. Finish: long, elegant, poetic, intellectual. Comments: this is a true adventure; Netflix could make 10 seasons based on this exceptional little whisky alone. Exceptional in several senses of the word.
SGP: 562 – 92 points.

A last one…

Blended Malt Whisky 27 yo 1993/2021 (53.2%, C. Dully Selection, sherry hogshead, cask #13, 317 bottles)

This one hails from ex-Edrington stock. We’ve never really followed these releases, which could contain anything from Macallan and Highland Park to Tamdhu and Glenrothes. It would be fantastic news if this turns out to be… HP. Colour: amber gold. Nose: massive doses of butterscotch, praline, cornflakes, Golden Grahams, maple syrup, cigarettes, crème caramel, followed by a bouquet of yellow flowers and loads of honey... With water: a touch of ink and tar, along with a faint metallic note, like an old dumpy black bottle. You know what I mean. Mouth (neat): my, this is good! A true classic, a bit spicier here, a touch rustic, but you can feel the potential ready to explode once you add water. With water: boom! Milk chocolate, dried figs, roasted hazelnuts, Nutella, and some old sherry in the ‘cream’ style. Finish: long, more austere, dry, with tobacco and old walnuts. Extra-dark chocolate (80% or more) lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: I don’t think this is a single malt, but the marriage is so perfect that it’s clearly not a simple blended malt thrown together right before bottling either. I also suspect there’s quite some Macallan in here. More importantly, I think it’s absolutely wonderful and multi-dimensional.
SGP: 562 – 91 points.

Well, honestly, if a session like this doesn't demonstrate the near-superiority of the independents (and of the brokers who feed some of them), I don’t know what its purpose is. I also think the new paradigm of single malt whisky (brands down, prices down, real quality up) only strengthens the phenomenon. The only thing we don’t need are independents bottling any old rubbish, but it's been a very, very long time since I’ve come across any like that. Brand arrogance – or unjustified premiumization - being down, independents must be part of the future.

Check the index of all Macallan we've tasted so far