Independent Highland Park Galore


December 2, 2024

Independent Highland Park Galore

It’s been quite some time since we’ve had a proper, enjoyable session focused on Highland Park. Admittedly, there are far fewer opportunities these days, as the vast majority of independent bottlings now appear under labels such as Whitlaw (a trade name) or Secret Orkney and other enigmatic aliases. In cases like these, it’s hard not to wonder whether they might actually be Scapa instead—just as many so-called Secret Campbeltown releases are now more likely to be Glen Scotia than Springbank or its associated brands. Right then, let’s dive in, choosing at random this time...

'Child' by Viktor Ekpuk,
acrylic on canvas, 2022 (LMDW)

Highland Park 10 yo 2013/2024 (56.2%, Cane & Grain, Private Reserve, bourbon barrel, cask #4287, 248 bottles)

Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: this is pure newmake spirit, as though it’s been aged in stainless steel rather than a barrel. Buckets of beer—hectolitres, really—alongside doughy bread, a touch of earth and ashes, and just the faintest hint of vanilla. Very amusing. With water: a subtle note of paraffin oil emerges, perhaps even a whisper of fusel oil. Mouth (neat): once again, it’s very much like a barley eau-de-vie. There’s kirsch, perhaps a nod to Williams pear spirit, and yet again, that ashy touch. It’s explosively youthful. With water: water works wonders, bringing out bright lemon, crisp green apple, and a faintly saline edge. Finish: long and incredibly youthful, with a peculiar mix of peppered coffee with salty nuances right at the end. I know. Comments: absolutely one to pick up if you fancy showing your guests what malt whisky tastes like practically straight off the still. Great fun and, most importantly, rarer than you might think.
SGP:652 – 81 points.

Highland Park 16 yo 1974 (57%, The Prestonfield, oak cask, cask #7137, 300 bottles, 75cl, +/-1990)

Oops, we’re jumping from one thing to another (we say from the rooster to the donkey in French), but didn’t we agree on a ‘random’ approach? Anyway, “oak cask,” now that’s something we love. Let’s not forget that The Prestonfield was one of the very first labels from Signatory Vintage, and they kept using it for a while. Their Bowmore and Clynelish bottlings are legendary, though I don’t believe I’ve ever tried this Highland Park before. Colour: gold. Nose: an incredible combination of waxes and honeys, very much in keeping with the style of the era. Freshly sawn pinewood, honey, beeswax, fresh mastic, freshly mixed oil paint, and a very old white wine that has aged as gracefully as Helen Mirren (or whichever favourite classic actress you prefer). With water: a bit of umami arrives, along with meaty notes, but all with elegance—like a fine bouillon. Mouth (neat): massive amounts of fir honey, then pine resin and vegetal essences. With water: bitter citrus takes charge, with bold Seville oranges pushing forward. Finish: long and magnificently bitter, like an elixir of Chartreuse. Comments: a style that feels totally old-fashioned and absolutely marvellous. Still, 1974 wasn’t that long ago, was it?
SGP:572 – 92 points.

Another 16-year-old…

Highland Park 16 yo 2007/2024 (56.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW, refill bourbon barrel, cask #15603520, 229 bottles)

Colour: Straw. Nose: I was expecting a peatier style, but instead, it’s all about brioche with candied fruits. And I’m sorry, but I have to mention panettone yet again. After all, it’s the season, and I’d crawl 100 metres in mud just to grab a small one. With water: doughy bread notes emerge, along with a touch of chalkiness. Mouth (neat): what a flawless distillate! A whole spectrum of lemons—every kind imaginable—followed by honey, especially, of course, heather honey. With water: even more perfect than perfect, with a rich, almost oily texture. Finish: long, peppery, but with yuzu taking the lead. Comments: not a peaty batch of Highland Park, but the quality is extraordinarily high. Best enjoyed with panettone (that’s enough, S.!).
SGP:651 – 89 points.

Highland Park 6 yo 2017/2023 (60%, Whisky Dudes, cask #52, tawny Port finish, 161 bottles)

Colour: light reddish amber (or onion peel). Nose: the wine from dear Portugal takes the lead right from the start, with that beautifully oxidised tawny character shining through. Cherries in kirsch, old-fashioned jam, strawberry jelly, and then a gentle peatiness with a touch of ash join the party, creating a delightful sensation of red fruit jam infused with whisky. With water: hints of old wine casks in a damp cellar, complete with dust and cobwebs. Mouth (neat): firmly in the realm of a wine-and-whisky cocktail, with bold pepper and mocha in the background. With water: oddly enough, it works wonderfully. Jams, pepper, clove, Xmas cake… Finish: similar, with overripe black cherries and oranges coming through, though black pepper has the final word. Comments: nothing to fault here—it’s exceptionally well done, though the Port is very forward. In this distinctly European style (and why not?), it’s top-notch, yet still not my favourite style.
SGP:651 – 85 points.

Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, sherry butt, cask #4148, 435 bottles)

Indeed I adore the artwork on the label, so I’ll take the liberty of proposing this new definition of whisky: barley, yeast, water, time, and art. I’ve not mentioned wood on purpose. Colour: full gold. Nose: extremely unusual, starting with varnish and even acetone, followed by bitter almond and turpentine. It almost feels like there’s rye in there. Then come figs and walnut wine, though adding water is a must. With water: still very singular, with more wood varnish, green walnuts, and some slightly overripe apples. Mouth (neat): the cask’s influence is massive, with loads of pepper, juniper, pine sap, varnish, and those bitter almonds again. It’s rather unusual. With water: the cask’s impact becomes even more evident—pine, resins, walnuts, ink, mead, bitter almonds, amaretti biscuits… Finish: long, and the almonds remain dominant. Think Italian almond liqueurs (yes, the Italians again, sacrebleu!). Comments: a truly singular Highland Park, tricky to score. I suspect many will absolutely love it, while others may still be scratching their heads.
SGP:462 – 87 points.

Highland Park 1994/2024 (48.1%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24012, 235 bottles)

Let me say it again: there are true gems in this series. Colour: Amber gold. Nose: a classic old-metal note emerges (think old pennies) before quickly shifting to meaty elements like Parma ham, fermenting fruits such as prunes, and a mix of damp earth and spent coffee grounds, with a touch of burnt pinewood. This one feels quite evolved so far. Mouth: and here it is—everything unfolds on the palate. Splendid dark figs and Corinthian raisins, fir honey (a dozen kilos—we love that), mint honey (ever tried it?), followed by Jaffa cakes, pistachio gianduja (enough to tempt a saint), and a very subtle smokiness with earthy undertones, even a hint of glue or varnish. A whole extra dimension, truly. Finish: simply superb. More dark chocolate, orange marmalade, Jaffa cakes, and even a drop of smoky pepper liqueur—if such a thing existed. One must bow with respect. Comments: it’s all about the palate with this 30-year-old beauty, give or take.
SGP:662 – 91 points.

Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (54.4%, Acla Selection, Whitlaw, Ski Ladies, hogshead, cask #749)

An amusing label, likely referencing the Swiss Alps rather than Glenshee or Nevis Range—though yes, skiing in Scotland has been a thing too. Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: absolute purity of style, showcasing the grandeur of a fine old hogshead. Furniture polish, lemon zest, fresh barley, a touch of ash, a couple of apples, and even a tiny whelk—et voilà. With water: similar, though perhaps with a bit more apple. Mouth (neat): that lightly waxy and earthy Highland Park fruitiness, but here with a fizzy edge, almost like an old champagne. I’ve no idea where that comes from, but it’s spectacular. With water: still fizzy but now slightly richer, with a faint touch of smoke, more lemon, and hints of verbena and wormwood. Finish: long, still kind of fizzy, now reminiscent of old cider, with pepper and ashes lingering. Comments: I’m absolutely smitten with this unusual fizzy character.
SGP:551 – 87 points.

We’ll have secret HPs next.

(Merci, Olivier)

Check the index of all Highland Park we've tasted so far