
September 20, 2024

Just two or three or maybe four
Highland Parks for my birthday

Well, it’s my birthday today. Not Whiskyfun’s, my own. That’s ((8²+2⁶)/4^0,5) years, I think, and I thought we could taste two or three pretty special Highland Parks for the occasion, what do you say? We’ll also be sampling plenty of Secret Orkneys or Whitlaws soon, but not today. Let’s try to start with a bit of flair, with an aperitif at 43.4% vol.

The humble author in 2002, around the early days of Whiskyfun, with some fairly recent whiskies, including, if I recall correctly, an HP from Murray McDavid. How time flies, and so on, and so on, and so on...

Highland Park 15 yo 1964/1979 (86.8 US proof, Averys for Corti Brothers, 75cl)

A marvellous bottling from Averys of Bristol, imported by Marshal Taylor Limited of San Francisco for the renowned Corti Brothers, ‘gourmet food and fine wine specialists in Sacramento since 1947’. We’ve sampled the 1963, 1968, and 1970 versions before, but never this rare 1964. Colour: white wine. Nose: absolutely splendid, with pinpoint precision on fireplace ashes, lime, and seawater. There’s an unexpectedly fresh, medicinal peat, followed by a full-on assault of tangerines—think an entire truckload. A touch of chalk rounds out this picture of pure joy. Mouth: firmer and even quite powerful, waxy, smoky, then it softens a bit with notes of aromatic white wine (Rhône valley) and honey. Overripe plums and peaches emerge, alongside a curious hint of langoustines—yes, really. The island character is deeply pronounced, though the palate is rounder than the nose, akin to certain rums. It’s gentler than other Corti vintages, at least as far as memory serves. Finish: long, both round and perfumed, with a coastal smokiness. There’s a subtle hint of sweet radish in the background. Comments: more precise on the nose than the palate, but it’s all absolutely marvellous. These Highland Parks distilled in the 1960s were in a league of their own, much like the Laphroaigs or Bowmores. I’ll have to visit Corti Brothers someday—who knows, there might still be some old cases hidden behind stacks of empty crates in a cellar somewhere. Who said the future belong to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams?
SGP:562 - 93 points.

What we like about US proof degrees is that they are much easier to convert than UK proof degrees. You just divide by two, and voilà, you have the % alcohol by volume.

Highland Park 1988/2023 ‘Vintage Release’ (43.8%, OB, bourbon hogsheads and European oak, 625 bottles)

I'm so eager to taste this recent baby that I won't even bother writing an introductory sentence (but you just did, S.) Colour: full gold. Nose: well, they may have made a mistake here—surely this is a cask from the 1960s? It certainly has that wonderfully honeyed, delicately minty profile, with tiny hints of camphor and grapefruit liqueur, rounded off by moss, ferns, and the smell of a freshly opened pack of cigarettes (you know, the ones doctors used to prefer in old adverts). Gentle whiffs of old wood, a dusty wine cellar, perhaps even a touch of morels. Absolutely masterful, this 1968… I mean, 1988. Mouth: a little more robust and rustic, as one might expect, but still magnificent, with very ripe apples, maybe a couple of raspberries, apricot, honey, a hint of lavender sweets, a touch of pink pepper, and then some orange marmalade and quince paste. At no point do the 43.8% ABV feel a tad too low. Finish: almost long, still beautifully honeyed, with a few sultanas and a hint of orange blossom water. A trace of smoke lingers on the aftertaste. Comments: no need to beat around the bush—this is up there with the best, on par with the Averys. Though this official +/- 35-year-old (which also happens to be my age, ha!) feels noticeably richer. Perhaps a well-timed family re-racking did the trick.
SGP: 651 - 92 points.

Highland Park 54 yo 1970/2024 (42%, Duncan Taylor, Rarest Collection, Accolade, sherry oak cask, cask #3254, 158 decanters)

Presented in a ‘dagger-type’ decanter, which could certainly double, once emptied, as an elegant vessel for airing your Pétrus or Romanée-Conti before dinner. Notably, this Highland Park has spent its entire life in the same sherry cask, without any boosting along the way. I must say, Duncan Taylor’s way of showcasing their treasures from old casks is nothing short of spectacular. Colour: full gold. Nose: absolutely magical, decanter or no decanter. It reminds me of the official ‘John Goodwin Retirement’ release if that rings a bell. Glorious honey, Sauternes, vineyard peaches, apricot ganache, and a touch of peppermint, followed by rosewood and sandalwood. The nose is almost simple, compact even, which is a tremendous quality after more than 50 years. It also evokes a fine, similarly aged Grande Champagne, which is certainly no bad thing either. Mouth: I expected some wood upfront, but no, it’s as fresh as a daisy, still dripping in honey, old Sauternes, and aged Cognac, with more blood oranges than anticipated, even a hint of mangoes and guavas—an unexpected delight! Praline and nougat round it out, though it hardly needs that support. Finish: a hint of wood at last, possibly Darjeeling ‘first flush’ (if I’m not mistaken), but the oranges, mangoes, and honey quickly reassert themselves after a few seconds. The aftertaste is astoundingly fresh and fruity. Comments: people often say those who buy bottles like this (north of £20K) never actually open them. Well, if that’s true, they’re missing out. What a marvel! And again, those 42% don’t show at all—this is by no means a lightweight malt. Now, for the obligatory downside (thesis and antithesis, as it were): a decanter crafted like this will certainly gather a bit of dust, no? And if you leave it in its box, it loses a touch of its allure. Certainly a cruel dilemma. Oh, and whatever you do, don’t drop this ‘dagger’ bottle on your foot, or worse, on your priceless Renaissance tiles in the kitchen.
SGP:651 - 94 points.

Right, one last one, a bit cheaper though, just to come back down to earth after those three absolute gems from Orkney, Sacramento, and Huntly...

Highland Park 18 yo 2004/2022 (59.7%, Ferg & Harris, oloroso cask finish, cask #4689, 285 bottles)

I do believe this is the first time we’re sampling a malt from these new independent bottlers. No offence intended, but the name does sound a bit like a British royal couple, doesn’t it? Joking aside, it’s refreshing to see the distillery’s full name on an indie label again. Colour: gold. Nose: discreet but noticeable sherry, bringing chocolate and walnut liqueur to a base that’s very much ‘modern HP’, earthy, coastal, and gently smoky. Lapsang and Assam teas make an appearance as well. It’s also a tad strong. So, with water: cigars, leather, and cherry wood come to the fore, with a faint touch of cured ham. Mouth (neat): bold and utterly delightful, salty, lemony, earthy, with plenty of nuts, leather, and a whisper of mustard. There’s a rather amusing back-and-forth between the distillate and the Oloroso finish, almost like a game of ping-pong. With water: a subtle floral note emerges—jasmine, violet, lavender—all very delicate. And of course, a bit of heather honey. Finish: long, mineral, smoky, but also honeyed with a scattering of dried fruits. Chocolate with a pinch of salt lingers on the aftertaste. Comments: this excellent middle-aged dram has held its own remarkably well after three old legends, hats off to it, that wasn’t an easy feat.
SGP:552 - 88 points.

(Merci beaucoup Logan, also Kirsty and Martin - and cheers, Olivier!)

Check the index of all Highland Park we've tasted so far

Just two or three or maybe four Highland Parks for my birthday

Just two or three or maybe four
Highland Parks for my birthday