Looking for the DNA of new Rosebank


June 11, 2024

Looking for the DNA of new Rosebank
with some old 11, 13 and 14

Rosebank

(Photograph by the very excellent Falkirk Herald)

I'm not sure who tipped off the Falkirk Herald that Rosebank was called the "Sleeping Giant of Scottish Distilleries" – well, we have our suspicions – but in any case, we've been informed that the V2.0 of the distillery is now open to the public. The first cask was filled in June 2023, which we duly celebrated, if I remember correctly. Ian Macleod is marking this new event by offering a 1989 for £3,200, but for us, given the circumstances, that's not very interesting. We think it's preferable to taste some Rosebank that is as close as possible, in theory, to the new spirit produced by the distillery, which is not even a year old yet. Fortunately, WF's sample library is quite extensive, and we have unearthed three young Rosebanks from Cadenhead's that we had not yet tasted but that came in very recently. Does that sound good to you?

I'd like to take this opportunity to share a little story with you. About ten years ago, I used to frequent Harry's Bar on Rue Daunou in Paris. One fine evening, I was sitting at the counter (on Hemingway's stool, I was told, but there must be a good hundred of those in Paris, not to mention Havana, etc.) when I overheard a young couple right next to me, speaking with a strong Glaswegian accent. I couldn't help but eavesdrop, and I noticed that they were admiring a bottle among the rows of whiskies on the other side of the counter: a relatively young Rosebank from G&M! So, I struck up a conversation and learned that the young couple was from Falkirk, and that they knew the distillery very well as they passed it every day. However, they had never seen it in operation and had never tasted its malt. Without a second thought, I ordered a glass for each of them, and I believe they started to cry, so meaningful was it for them to taste Rosebank from Falkirk in Paris, where they were on their honeymoon, if I remember correctly.

At the Harry's Bar not that long ago

I think I've never derived so much pleasure from offering someone a dram; whisky, after all, is all about evoking emotions, sometimes unintentionally. In any case, I sincerely hope that this charming couple will now have the chance to visit their beloved Rosebank Distillery for the first time in their lives. And perhaps they will even be offered a taste of that famous new 1989! (well…)

Rosebank 11 yo 1980/1992 (60.1%, Cadenhead, 150th Anniversary, Authentic Collection, cask #92/35)

We remain somewhat circumspect regarding R. at young age, as the former official 8-year-old was not always very exciting, and the 12-year-old for Italy was not necessarily so either. The 12 yo Flora & Fauna was already better, the old 15 was very good, and the 20... purely magical! (WF 93). But that one was no longer a young Rosebank (finely observed, S.) Colour: amber. Nose: sublimely captivating arrival, with notes of polishes, roasted hazelnuts, old camphor balm, antique copper and silver objects, and a truly extraordinary sherry, possibly from a solera cask (though these are said to be very inconsistent). It then transitions to grand cru chocolate and stays there. With water: as often with ex-sherry, the earthiness comes through, together with precious woods, old walnuts, a vintage tobacco pouch, followed by apricots and a few sultanas. In any case, it's not a citrus bomb. Mouth (neat): it has retained great power despite thirty years in the bottle. But it's true that at 60% ABV, with a good cork and no light, it can last forever (if it weren't for, well, us). Magnificent pepper, slightly chemical waxes, marmalade, and grapefruit zest. It speaks volumes, as they say. With water: now this is funny, this time it's all about oranges, in all their forms. With the sherry, it dances a perfect tango. Finish: and here comes the pepper again, this time in all forms too. Pink, green, black, ground, crushed... You get the idea. In the signature, Sichuan pepper bursting with mandarins. Comments: we are already very high. So to speak.
SGP:651 - 92 points.

Rosebank 13 yo 1980/1993 (59.3%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)

Bottled in July 1993, the year the distillery was closed. Alas! I have never known in which month this closure occurred, so I cannot say if, when this 1980 was bottled, it was an active distillery or a 'lost' one. But does this kind of detail really matter? Everyone, except a few smart historians, didn't really care about closed distilleries, and many were thinking that if they had been closed, it was because their production was of inferior quality. Tsk tsk. Colour: deep gold. Nose: to be honest, it's very close to the 11-year-old, the sherry is just a bit more discreet, allowing the much-anticipated fresh citrus fruits to appear. It's very interesting to see how sherry, even if it's sumptuous, can somewhat block a distillate, especially one that leans towards elegance. In any case, the result here remains magnificent, with more tangerines, oranges, pink grapefruits… But the rest of it remains sherry. With water: no, it's very beautiful, waxy, with old citrus cordials and, especially, an old Bénédictine side. That's smashing, as they say. Mouth (neat): lemon tree honey but also a slightly soapy side (even though we haven't added water yet). This can also come from the bottle if it has been stored in the light, or from the closure. But make no mistake, it's still excellent and the soapy touches might disappear with water. Or be amplified… With water: it doesn't work too well. A stale pepper side. A shame… Finish: same, but the citrus fruits make a lovely comeback in the aftertaste. Comments: it's a bit complicated. But what a nose!
SGP:662 - 85 points.

Rosebank 14 yo1966/1980 (46%, Cadenhead, Aberdeen, black dumpy, 75cl)

From W.M. Cadenhead when they were still based in Aberdeen. It's also worth remembering that Rosebank means triple distillation and real worm tubs! Signatory Vintage had some Rosebanks from the 1960s, true splendours, but I've tasted very little really old Rosebank (apart from the old official bottles with ages but without vintages). Let's try to move a bit faster... Colour: gold. Nose: polish, metal polish, oranges, pink grapefruits, and citrons. Frankly, there isn't much else, but it's so perfect that, in fact, you desire nothing more. It's somewhat akin to a very fine sweet Chenin from the Loire, like a Chaume, for instance. Mouth: sublime, citrus and old waxes. Alright, let's attempt an experiment, the shortest palate description in the world. No, actually, the shortest would just be "!". While we're digressing a bit, it reminds me of the story of Victor Hugo, in exile in Guernsey, who had just published La Légende des Siècles (I believe) and, being somewhat frugal, sent this simple telegram to his publisher to inquire about sales: "?". The response from his publisher was: "!". Finish: ! Comments: seriously, there is again a very, very, but very slight soapy note, immediately connected to the waxy side. Otherwise, we'd be even higher than…
SGP:651 - 93 points.

Long live the new Rosebank and congratulations to Ian Macleod! And to the old Cadenhead's.

(Gracias KC and Patrick)

Check the index of all Rosebank we've tasted so far