Mixtures, wine, and secrets


November 15, 2024

Mixtures, wine, and secrets

You know what I mean—things where you're not quite sure if it's beef or horse, or cat or rabbit (adapting to the new Western governance, as you can see). Or whisky or wine...

Creag Dhu (40.2%, OB, Speyside single malt, oloroso, circa 2022?)

A whisky from a mysterious Speyside distillery, seemingly aimed at supporting the conservation of Scottish peatlands. Naturally, one can safely assume not a wisp of peat smoke graces this dram. Admittedly, the ‘fake decimals’ trend can raise eyebrows, a ploy many distilleries employ to evoke the impression of a cask-strength presentation, though rounding would suffice within regulations. We make an exception for those translating bygone proof measures—80, 90, 100—who are more archivists than marketers. Colour: gold. Nose: overripe apple mingles with a touch of slightly rancid butter, malt, and a hint of cider—surprisingly agreeable. Mouth: indeed, rather pleasant, with a delightful malty character, a touch of minerality, and notes of herbal infusions and mid-tier English tea (the sort found in travel-exclusive shops at a premium). Finish: yes, quite good; more overripe apples, orange cordial, and a smattering of sultanas make a return. Comments: I anticipated something lacklustre and uninspiring. Not so.
SGP:451 - 79 points.

Canmore (40%, Charles Edge London, single malt, bourbon & sherry, circa 2023)

Delightfully reminiscent of a 1980s bottling, this release even nods to Malcolm III, King of Scots from 1051 to 1093 (impressive longevity for the era—must have been the uisge beatha). Time to put on Rondo Veneziano on the Thorens and dive in... Colour: straw. Nose: as expected, they’ve selected well—ripe apple, pear cake, orange loaf, and barley syrup make an appearance. No, it’s not a Brora ’72, but it’s enjoyable. Mouth: a touch of minerality and a metallic edge, followed by hay, barley, and more of those apples. Reminiscent of an entry-level Glenlivet, in a charming way. Finish: it turns a bit drying and slightly cardboard-like towards the end. Comments: honest and straightforward, although the finish is a bit underwhelming. Here’s to Malcolm III!
SGP:351 - 76 points.

Enigma 15 yo 2008/2024 (54.8%, Cadenhead, Islay single malt, bourbon hogshead, 1494 bottles)

Ah, this one promises to be intriguing—potentially an Ardbeg or a Lagavulin. Let’s find out... Colour: white wine. Nose: ash, olives, lemon, and tiny berries—all very much in the Lagavulin vein. Pure and precise (mercifully untouched by rum, tequila, or any other unorthodox influence in this setting). With water: freshly woven wool and damp chalk. Mouth (neat): what a delight this little number is! Sea water, ash, green pepper, and rowanberry eau-de-vie. With water: that subtle sweet edge is unmistakable. An impeccable distillate. Finish: long, lingering notes of ash, green apples, oysters, and chalk. What more could one ask for? Comments: by the way, have you ever tried drizzling pistachio ice cream with a fresh, unadulterated peated whisky like this? Do give it a go and report back. Don’t take my word for it, but this does lean quite Lagavulin-esque. Exceptional and an absolute session killer. But we press on...
SGP:467 - 90 points.

Scarabus ‘Sherry Cask Edition’ (46%, Hunter Laing, Islay single malt, 2024)

The label is amusingly cryptic, with phrases like ‘only those who seek shall find’ and mentions of ‘alchemy’—curiosity piqued. The Viking name ‘Scarabus’ once belonged to an ancient distillery on the shores of Loch Indaal near Bridgend, with Bowmore as the nearest ‘speaking’ distillery just to the south. Not that it means much; if I were Hunter Laing, I’d be tempted to use Ardnahoe. Colour: white wine. Nose: pears—always a tell-tale sign of youth—followed by ash, walnuts, a hint of cured ham, bitter almonds, kirsch, oysters, and a touch of iodine tincture. Mouth: quite approachable, with fruity notes, a touch of mustard, and a chalky edge. Reminiscent of lightly salted farmhouse cider. Finish: long and increasingly saline. The sherry cask has behaved impeccably, subtly integrated without overwhelming. A medicinal touch reappears in the aftertaste. Comments: not to play the guessing game, but it’s undoubtedly excellent. Almost like a table whisky, perfect for enjoying with smoked fish or even caviar.
SGP:557 - 87 points.

Parkmore Selection 8 yo (46%, Aceo, Highland single malt, Barolo cask finish, circa 2023)

I must admit, the use of Barolo casks worries me far more than the revival of the forgotten Parkmore name (which, let's be honest, only a handful of us still remember). Let’s keep an eye on that Nebbiolo influence... Colour: red mirabelles. Nose: clay and natural sulphur notes, cabbage soup, buttercream, and cherry cake. So far, it’s holding up reasonably well. Mouth: not the disaster I feared—seatbelts can come off—though there’s plenty of green pepper and bay leaves, making for a somewhat challenging ride. A touch of grape stalk and orange zest follows, with a growing presence of green pepper. Naturally, no one was expecting an explosion of ripe red and black berries, I suppose. Finish: medium length, with an unexpected salty and bitter twist. Some cherries do manage to keep the ship from sinking. Comments: not my style at all—and I do love a good Barolo or Barbaresco—but far from the worst I’ve tasted. In short, a genuine winesky, yet serviceable.
SGP:461 - 70 points.

We do enjoy mixes, but we prefer to make them ourselves. Come on, let’s move forward – there’s even wilder stuff to come...

A Secret Speyside Distillery 13 yo 2010/2023 (51%, HK Whisky, Chinese Yellow Wine Cask Finish, cask #2)

An intriguing experiment, or perhaps just a touch of madness—whisky aged in Hong Kong, meaning it no longer qualifies as Scotch malt. I must admit, despite my travels to China over the years, I’d never come across Chinese Yellow Wine, or huangjiu, a traditional rice wine that’s part of China’s ‘national intangible cultural heritage’. How distinguished! Colour: full gold. Nose: brace yourselves—this is a unique experience. A beguiling array of praline, chestnut cream, squash, and glutinous rice; you could easily imagine yourself in an authentic dim sum restaurant. Utterly delightful. With water: more of that wonderful, deeply inviting profile. Mouth (neat): oh, this is superb! Still those chestnuts, hints of yeast, a whisper of rice spirit (the kind I remember costing $1 a litre during my first visit), fermented exotic fruits, and pumpkin soup. It's decidedly Chinese in character—forget the Speyside roots. Finish: long, stunningly saline, and fermentation-forward, with a rustic shochu-like touch and salted preserved lemons. Comments: nothing at all reminiscent of a classic Speyside malt, but what an extraordinary find! It’s discoveries like this that make whisky tasting endlessly rewarding.
SGP:662 - 89 points.

Cream of Sponge 28 yo 1993/2022 (44.7%, Whisky Sponge, Highland single malt, refill hogshead, 263 bottles)

Here we jump from one extreme to another, but such is the nature of these delightfully odd tasting sessions. Colour: white wine. Nose: quite amusing and rather unconventional, with hints of hand cream, faded flowers, slightly tired herbal teas, lanolin, and three-year-old suntan lotion—there’s a certain worn-out quality to it, but this only adds to its charm. A touch of motor oil and a drizzle of mead make an intriguing appearance. A fascinating nose that does spark a bit of concern for what’s to come on the palate… Mouth: thankfully, the palate is livelier than anticipated, though it does show a bit of age with notes of old teas. There’s a whisper of shredded coconut and a nod to vintage Burgundy Chardonnay from the 1980s (yes, think Kim Wilde and Stevie Nicks). A touch of salinity brings a West Coast feel (Scotland’s, not Burgundy’s). Finish: medium length with saline nuances, hints of bone marrow, and honey-glazed mushrooms. Comments: I find it somewhat fragile, teetering on the edge here and there, but as Gabin once said to an old actress—I forget who— ‘you’ve still got something left’. Best kept out of modern conversations, of course. All in all, a charming old malt showing some wear, perhaps in need of a whisky restorer. What’s that, you say they already exist?
SGP:342 - 87 points.

Seriously, we've got loads of these unknown things. Right, let’s keep going...

Celestial (50%, Compass Box, blended Scotch, 2024)

A blend crafted in homage to the venerable old White Horse whiskies—splendid news, indeed. Rumoured to include Ardbeg, Caol Ila, Glen Elgin, Old Pulteney, and some particularly aged grain whiskies. While age adds a touch of gravitas, let’s not forget that grain remains grain, if you catch my drift. That said, to replicate true White Horse, one might wish for Lagavulin, or perhaps even Malt Mill, depending on the era… Colour: pale gold. Nose: lacks the sheer force of an ancient White Horse, yet they've undeniably captured the essence. A metallic whisper, hints of maritime peat, vegetal and mechanical oils (think old engine grease), overly ripe apples, and a touch of mint tea. Spot on, White Horse. With water: candle wax, wax paper, and even a dash of paint thinner. Mouth (neat): yes indeed—smoked fish, crisped bacon, chicken broth, tobacco, and a lick of brine. It hits the mark. With water: precisely so. You might almost swear there’s a touch of OBE (old bottle effect, for the uninitiated). Finish: of medium length, but with a saline and slightly oily character. Comments: well done, truly. This one deserves a spot in a blind tasting alongside White Horse, Logan, and Mackie’s—it would be a grand bit of fun.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

One last one for today...

Big Peat ‘15th Anniversary’ (50%, Douglas Laing, blended malt, red wine cask finish, 2024)

One wonders whether there might have been some confusion involving computers, as it seems improbable that the fine folk at Douglas Laing would consciously opt to dress their 15th Anniversary Big Peat in a red wine finish. Perhaps an AI was entrusted with this decision, who knows? In any case, something's gone awry. Red wine, really! Colour: apricot. Nose: undeniably well-crafted, showing notes of rose petals and strawberry cake, clafoutis, fruitwood smoke, pink grapefruit, and Mon Chéri (everyone hates the brand, yet everyone eats them). Even a touch of cherry beer peeks through. It’s remarkably unusual but admittedly controlled. With water: the original coastal, windswept character stands firm and provides a much-needed anchor. Mouth (neat): no, here it becomes overbearing, reminiscent of those early Laphroaigs or Port Ellens that had been flirting with heavy Pomerol casks more than two decades ago—Frankenstein whiskies, if you will. Not a triumph, in my humble opinion. With water: not entirely discordant, but there’s an overriding sense of superfluousness. One wonders why such treatment was necessary for a distillate that surely stood proudly on its own pre-experiment. Finish: hard-going, a touch arduous, and slightly uncomfortable. Comments: it remains perfectly drinkable, of course. Now while I can see the merit of using red wine casks as a twist to expand a range—especially when one has an ocean of similar whiskies to differentiate—choosing such a route for a 15th anniversary celebration? It feels somewhat out of step with Douglas Laing’s usual utterly brilliant style and moves. Perhaps it's time to switch off the AI. Peace and love.
SGP:465 - 70 points.