More cognacs and Armagnacs


June 23, 2024

More cognacs and Armagnacs

Then we'll switch back to rums next week. That said, there are quite a few Calvados, gins, and mezcals waiting, so we'll see... In any case, I think we've found the perfect aperitif.

A mobile still, clean as a whistle, stationed in
Eauze to celebrate the 700th anniversary of
Armagnac in 2010 (Dépêche du Midi)

Domaine Mestépès 2021/2023 (59.4%, Swell de Spirits, Experimental Series, eau-de-vie de raisin)

Right, in 'experimental' there is 'mental'. This is simply Armagnac that, I suppose, was deemed too young at the time of bottling to be called Armagnac, although it could have been legally. Mestépès is located in Cazaubon, near Eauze. Remember the first record of eau de vie dates back to 1310, when the Prior of Eauze extolled the virtues of the "Aygue Ardente" (ardent water). It's 100% Baco. Colour: white wine. Nose: there's apple, as they said in a famous French gangster film. A bit of liquorice and anise too, with touches of sourdough, but otherwise, it's a bit strong at this stage. With water: ginger, anise, grape stalk. Mouth (neat): oh, it tastes like pisco! Really, it's very aniseed, still on the grape, but it also brings to mind raki or Greek ouzo. It takes us on a journey without costing much, in the end. With water: it becomes fruitier, sweeter, almost Muscat-like, but the anise continues to dominate. Finish: long. Like pastis from Gers. Comments: it's really very nice but, like my friends who live in the area, I think I'll drink the rest over lots of ice when the weather is fine. But it's really good, just a bit disconcerting.
SGP: 660 - 80 points.

While we're at it...

SAB'S Burgundy Grapes 2022/2023 (43%, Brandy #TW1, Tennessee Cask Finish, 1200 bottles)

Right, this is some kind of Marc de Bourgogne (a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) that's vapour distilled in Beaune by the rather eccentric SAB. It's aged for 6 months in Burgundy pièces and finished for an additional 4 months in what appears to be Dickel wood. Colour: gold. Nose: utterly charming marc, brimming with glue, cherry stones, marzipan, raw kirsch, pine needles, and fig leaves... It's just that it has no place whatsoever in a tasting of cognac and armagnac; it's a completely different beast. But that's my fault. Mouth: absolutely wild, spicy, and sharp, with citrus peels, masses of rich soil, rampant turmeric, Szechuan pepper, and flavours that defy description. In the words of the Talking Heads, "Qu'est-ce que c'est ?" Finish: long and earthy, just as any respectable marc should be. The very ground in your glass (but is it Burgundy or Tennessee?). Comments: I adore peculiar things, and this certainly delivers in the oddity department. Reminds me of my studies in Dijon...
SGP:461 - around 85 points.

More crazy stuff then…

Lascabanes 2019/2024 (71%, Le Passeur, Ténarèze, cask #4)

Full Ugni Blanc in Armagnac! And double distilled in a pot still. How do you think they reached 71%? One sole mission remains: survive this baby. Otherwise, see you on the other side. Colour: white wine. Nose: we're almost in Scotland here, and to be honest, I could have mistaken it for a Daftmill. A delightful mix of ripe apples, dandelion flowers, and varnish, yet it remains surprisingly gentle. Well, this high strength must be blocking some aromas, let's see… With water: it's lovely, with apples, gooseberries, wildflowers, green plums, grape skins, and eaux-de-vie of small berries (rowan, service tree, holly, sloe)… Quite delicate, actually. Mouth (neat): lemon, agave, lemon balm, and an overwhelming amount of ethanol. The folks at Le Passeur are a bit mad, and I feel I need a PhD in fluid dynamics to dilute this properly. Right, let's give it a go… With water: brings out spices, ginger, and zest. With more water, down to about 45%: honey, flowers, more earth… I think that's the right strength. Finish: long, spicy. Ginger and grapefruit peel, with syrup. Comments: extremely difficult to score, once again.
SGP:561 - around 85 points.

Pébérère 1973/2024 (49.9%, Le Passeur, Ténarèze, cask #215)

Ugni Blanc with a touch of Baco. This time, no fear of fainting. Colour: coppery gold. Nose: ah yes, acetone, kirsch-soaked cherries, aged balsamic vinegar, and even hints of grand-arôme, in the style of diesel oil mixed with black olives and carbon dust. Also, freshly sawn pine wood. Figs and oranges manage it all from the background. A magnificent nose, almost Jamaican in character. I did say 'almost'. Mouth: no doubt this time, despite the slightly acidic rusticity (which we love). It could almost be a Domfrontais, like 50% pear. Still plenty of varnish, sharp acidic notes, green apples, sour cherries, and those famous dried figs holding it all together. And always those touches reminiscent of wood glue. All the rustic charm of Armagnac, far from those that lean towards cognac. After all, this is indeed a Ténarèze. Finish: long, green, acidic, very kirschy. We adore this rusticity. Comments: one can easily imagine enjoying this Armagnac either in a leather club chair in front of a roaring fireplace, or directly from a flask in the middle of a walk through Gascony, under the rain. I'm quite a fan.
SGP:462 - 90 points.

Allez, du cognac…

Mauxion 1967/2023 (52.3%, OB for Kirsch Import, Bons bois)

1967, that's Hendrix, Page, Barrett, Townsend, Lennon, Miles, Jagger, Morrison, Joplin… (please stop that lousy boomer shtuff, S.). Colour: deep gold. Nose: let's be honest, we knew that Bois Fins, Bons, and Ordinaires existed because they are mentioned in books, but it's only recently that we can taste them pure, appreciating their freshness and relative simplicity. Lovely notes of grapefruit, lemon balm, damp earth, green apples, greengages, jujubes, service tree berries, and wild carrots… With water: lots of fresh garden fruits, just picked, and then some earth after the rain. Mouth (neat): very good, very fresh, vibrant, lemony, and earthy at the same time. It's a refreshing combination that works exceptionally well. With water: not sure adding water is necessary, it muddles things a bit. Finish: long, with a green tannic and slightly sour note, not unpleasant at all, especially as the earthy aspect we adore signs it off nicely. Comments: we understand why these 'bois' are usually 'fillers'. But that doesn't detract from their charm in the least.
SGP:561 - 89 points.
PS: I first tried it in March (WF 86) but indeed liked it rather better today, in a slightly different context.

A 1967 Armagnac, perhaps?

Domaine de Lasgraves 1967/2018 (46%, OB, Le Frêche, Bas armagnac)

As you may know, this one enjoys a stellar reputation. Colour: cherrywood. Nose: Right from the start, it's all about cherries and cedarwood, followed by figs, dates, mulled wine, aged Banyuls, oloroso sherry, dark nougat, wild garlic, caramel, game, thuja wood, and liquorice... This nose is completely bonkers; you could spend hours exploring it. Mouth: Forget it, we're venturing into old Springbank ex-sherry territory here. Black cherry, varnish, figs, walnut wine, hoisin sauce, teriyaki, amontillado sherry. Honestly, forget it. Finish: long, with a return to black cherry jam, reminiscent of the ones from Itxassou in the Basque Country. I swear it's worth a visit, and you can enjoy some Irouléguy wine at Arretxea while you're there. Comments: 1967 top of the pops. I mean, the pinnacle of Armagnac. You'd swear it was aged in sherry casks, though I believe that's impossible. Brilliant.
SGP: 562 - 92 points.

We finish with a cognac from my year (1985, of course)…

Peyrot 'V.60 A.63' (42.9%, Old Master Spirits, Australia, Grande champagne, 155 bottles)

100% Ugni Blanc and so a 1960 of 63 years, which does ring a bell. We've already sampled quite a few marvels from Old Master Spirits, in fact several superb spirits that have made their way back from Australia, much like the renowned Glenlivet 1899 that we tasted with the BBC. It appears that the lengthy journey, back and forth, does them a world of good. And they say the ships now consume almost nothing (yes, really). Colour: copper amber. Nose: not that far from the Lasgraves, with stewed fruits, ultra-ripe cherries, jams, dark honey, and an abundance of prunes—no, ten tonnes of prunes—no, a hundred tonnes of prunes, you get the idea. In the background, old lady's perfumes (Patou), hints of rose petal, ylang-ylang, wisteria, jasmine... How elegant. Mouth: some might detest me for saying this, but I find a couple of similarities with the famous Yamazaki 1960, perhaps that old Corinth raisin note, or the cedar wood and incense. Besides, the prunes are back, now with honey and a touch of cane syrup. It becomes increasingly soft and round (like everything born in 1960, laughing out loud). Seriously, it's magnificent and, as they say, it rivals the legendary Lasgraves. Finish: not exceedingly long, but remember, only 43% (natural strength). More prunes, this time very slightly salted but quite spiced by the wood (pepper). Comments: there's always a slight tussle between the spirit and the wood in these very old spirits, but it's fascinating to follow. One still doesn't quite understand why a malt whisky of the same age (let's say, the yield of 3 kilos of barley after so many years, at 20 cents a kilo at current rates) would be worth so much more. And often, it's not nearly as good.
SGP:651 - 92 points.

While the big ones hire rappers and actresses, It is true that the communication and marketing budget of these small cognac and armagnac distillers is generally limited to a few friendly dinners per year, centred around a good Madiran, goose necks stuffed with foie gras, garlic sautéed mushrooms, and duck confit with Sarladaises potatoes. I say one can hardly blame them for that.

Check the index of all cognac and armagnac we've tasted so far