Old Pulteney in opulent versions


September 30, 2024

WF's Little Duos, today Old Pulteney in opulent versions

Wick harbour (Wick Harbour Authority)

Let's have a 16-year-old at a modest strength and the recent 25-year-old.

Old Pulteney 16 yo ‘Travellers' Exclusive’ (43%, OB, bourbon and Spanish oak, 2023)

The poor travellers have only been granted 43% ABV. Rather odd and quite ‘un-Pulteney’, I must say, but on the bright side, it gives us a rare opportunity to have a grumble about Pulteney, which we haven’t done much of in recent years. Ha! Colour: gold. Nose: despite the low ABV, it still retains that maritime, saline edge, almost peaty without actually being peaty, plus those slightly overripe and fresh apple notes. There’s a touch of bubblegum, some jelly babies, and a handful of orange-flavoured sweets... However, it’s often on the palate that lighter spirits reveal their true nature, so let’s see... Mouth: it’s pleasant enough but, indeed, lacks punch—such a shame. There’s fruit juice, a bit of grapefruit, some toasted wood, a little tinned peach, and hints of honey… but it struggles to take off. The effect is odd and somewhat frustrating. Finish: short, and the difference from the 46% versions is glaring. Some sour candies, a bit of icing sugar, and a touch of honey and pine sap lozenge... Comments: it’s all down to the bottling strength, really; the juice itself is thoroughly charming, with that honeyed and maritime character. Still rather good though.
SGP:641 - 83 points.

Old Pulteney 25 yo (46%, OB, American oak and Spanish oak casks, +/-2024)

This one’s undergone a secondary maturation in ‘Spanish oak’. We tried an earlier version in 2017 that was excellent but somewhat overshadowed by younger, more vibrant editions. Let’s see how this one fares… Colour: gold. Nose: plenty of oranges and honey, with a touch of liquorice and olive oil, followed by nougat, roasted caramelised peanuts, and a hefty slice of millionaire’s shortbread. We’re almost in family-sized Mars bar territory here. Mouth: this is a Pulteney without its usual fresh, maritime character, instead rather dominated by the ‘Spanish oak’ (I suspect sherry-like). Salted caramel, toffee, butterscotch, then a hint of stout, chocolate, coffee liqueur, chestnut cream… and back to that salted caramel. Finish: medium length, chocolatey with plenty of caramel. Lightly salt a Mars bar and you’ve got it—no need to deep fry it! A little orange and salt linger in the aftertaste. Comments: a more opulent Pulteney, but you need to listen to the background, if you know what I mean. A coastal whisky without a sea view, but you can tell it’s not far off.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Pulteney we've tasted so far