Old Tigers, a Farewell or a Celebration?


September 3, 2024

Old Tigers: A Farewell or a Celebration?

To be honest, I’m not sure. We have these four old malts, all from distilleries that have been closed for forty years, and they’re all alone in our stocks, with no sparring partners from the same distilleries available to organise a proper comparative session as we like to do. Does this mean we’ve lost hope of finding any more?

Glenugie Distillery, 1958 (Wiki)

Certainly not, and I’m sure we’ll acquire others from the same distilleries before long (the taster’s version of Murphy’s Law), but still, nothing is certain. challenging. Let’s see...So today, we’re going to compare a Banff (1863-1983), a Dallas Dhu (1899-1983), a Glenugie (1831-1983), and a Millburn (1807-1985), something that’s highly unusual for WF. In essence, this is the counterpart to our ‘New Cats’ tastings, which is why we’re calling this session ‘Old Tigers’, even if it does sound a bit like Indian whisky stuff. Perhaps we’ll have more ‘Old Tigers’ sessions like this in the future, who knows… In any case, today we’re expecting two potential fruit bombs, and two likely malts that are, let’s say, more

Glenugie 18 yo 1959/1977 (80° UK proof, Cadenhead, black dumpy, 26 2/3 Fl.Ozs)

By W.M. Cadenhead of Aberdeen and their old lady. Just to remind you, 80° UK proof equals 46% vol. (well, 45.7%). No, this bottling strength is hardly a recent innovation, despite what some might suggest. Glenugie often reminds us of Lochside, further down the East Coast, when in our glass. In other words, we adore its fruitiness. By the way, we've tasted this marvel before, but that was in 2006, and of course, it was a different bottle. Let’s keep this brief… Colour: straw. Nose: those coppery and chalky touches so typical of these bottles, followed by a cascade of stewed or compotéed fruits, accented with resinous and camphor notes. It’s extraordinarily compact yet complex, reminiscent of a grand vintage Meursault by a Spitzen winemaker. Mouth: one hardly knows where to begin. There’s a medicinal side, a hint of metal, quite a salty broth, then all the oranges, small berries, apples, and odd fruits from lands still unknown to Man (and Donlad J.). It’s important to remain seated while tasting this kind of glory. Finish: long, quite medicinal and waxy, yet all those fruits remain. It’s magnificent. Extraordinary aftertaste of chutneys and sweet-and-sour fruits. Peaches? Comments: I’m not entirely sure, but it’s the first time I’ve noted similarities with old Laphroaig bottles. I gave it 93 in 2006, but I was still hoping to find quite a few even better whiskies. Thus…
SGP:652 - 94 points.

Banff 15 yo 1964/1979 (80° UK proof, Cadenhead, black dumpy, 26 2/3 Fl.Ozs)

Another one from the Aberdeen era. I believe this is the first time I’m tasting a 1964 Banff. I’ve always found this distillery to be more renowned for its misadventures (fires, bombings) than for its malt, which, however, could be magical when not too weakened by low strengths and overly exaggerated caramel. Colour: straw. Nose: a bit more tired than the Glenugie, with notes of tinplate, old metal box, but then it’s aged white wines that take the lead. Simple Sylvaners or Pinot Blancs come to mind, but from good producers. Ripe apples, white raisins, a slight chalky note... and a touch of polish. Light polish, mind you. Mouth: it’s fresher, livelier, with more citrus and orchard fruits, which brings it closer to the Glenugie. Some old raisins too, the ones that lingered in that famous tin box from the nose. The background remains ‘old dumpy’, with metal, wax, and chalk. Finish: quite long, a bit more herbaceous. A touch of green pepper. Comments: we’ve tasted more recent Banff vintages that were more stellar, but I was pleased to taste this 1964, that’s for sure. Very good old whisky, perhaps a bit outshone by the Glenugie.
SGP:462 - 88 points.

Millburn 1974 (56.3%, The Classic Whisky Guild, +/-2002)

Both Cadenhead and G&M have had some of these 1974s. To be honest, I’ve never heard of The Classic Whisky Guild, and I wonder whether it’s the whisky or the guild that was considered classic. Hmm. Anyway, among the three Inverness distilleries – the others being Glen Mhor and Glen Albyn, as you know – Millburn was perhaps the least known. But I recall a 1974 from the mid-2000s by Cadenhead that was rather magical (WF 92). Agreed, let’s skip the chatter… Colour: pale gold. Nose: ah! Beeswax and old apples from the cellar, wildflower honey, pollen, old champagne, apricot cream… honestly, it smells fantastic, unless water ruins it all. With water: not at all, of course. Honey, peach cream, bellini, beeswax. Mouth (neat): it’s perfect. There’s even smoked ham (the quirky side of Inverness malts), otherwise all those marvellous things from a beehive, plus pink pepper and the famous mirabelle + quince duo that’s adorned, even decorated, many great malts. Like old Balvenies or certain HPs. Finish: game, set, and match. Top-notch... and guess what, that smoked ham is still there. Incredible. Comments: Cadenhead?
SGP:662 - 93 points.

Dallas Dhu 31 yo 1980/2012 (60.2%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #2106, 196 bottles)

Signatory had quite a few Dallas Dhus. Now, whether Dallas Dhu is a dead and buried distillery or if those famous revitalisation projects we’ve heard about are still on the cards remains uncertain. At the time of writing, it seems Aceo (Murray McDavid) is determined to restart production as early as next year, which is excellent news, confirmed by their partners, Historic Environment Scotland (aka Historic Scotland). In the meantime… Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps the most discreet of the four, but at over 60% ABV, that’s almost expected. Some overripe apples, prunes, honeyed touches, panettone, hints of fresh cement, and gauze… With water: oddly, not much change. A bit of putty, propolis, hints of rubber… Mouth (neat): quite explosive, a bit chaotic (from lemon to cement) but really intriguing. Big citrusy power. With water: it’s really something. Propolis dissolved in lime juice, with outright new make notes. Incredible and, ultimately, rather intellectual. Plum brandy. Finish: very long, once again with honey, or rather mead, mixed with that famous plum brandy, and again that cement in the aftertaste. Comments: quite the adventure, this Dallas Dhu. I really like it, but it has an ‘art house’ vibe, I’d say. I’ll try to track down some more old ‘licensed’ Dallas Dhu from G&M, as I don’t really know Dallas Dhu very well. It’s good to have goals, they say.
SGP:562 - 89 points.

(Thanks Billy, Geert and other friends)