Our near-monthly dose of Glen Moray


December 12, 2024

Our near-monthly dose of Glen Moray

We always enjoy tasting Glen Moray. Perhaps it’s because 25 years ago, it was considered a very ‘budget’ malt, not particularly revered, and yet some rather incredible work has been done since then. Of course, some of their whiskies still bear the mark of slightly unconventional cask choices, but sometimes that’s what makes it fun. And let’s be honest, fun is what life’s all about, is it not.

Glen Moray-Glenlivet 16 yo 2007/2024 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon, 2024)

A May release. Colour: white wine. Nose: lovely, vanilla coffee at first, followed by garden apples and pears, then jellybeans and sugary Easter eggs. I know it’s not the season, but it more or less was when this little one first came out. Also, a hint of damp garden earth. This is very pleasant, easy-going, enjoyable, soothing, and well-balanced (enough adjectives, S.). Mouth: the jellybeans are back, joined by a touch of eucalyptus and a faint toothpaste note at the start, before moving into banana foam sweets. Not many malts display this profile—it brings to mind young Auchentoshans from 25 years ago. Remember the vaguely triangular labels? Finish: fairly long, with a hint of new-world chardonnay, light acacia honey, and a squeeze of lime. Comments: it does its job beautifully, with an almost childlike character (I mean that in the best possible way).
SGP: 641 - 85 points.

Glen Moray 21 yo ‘Port Wood Finish’ (46.3%, OB, Heritage, +/-2024)

Not entirely sure when this batch was bottled, but the sample reached me quite recently. Colour: partridge eye, as the wine folks say. Nose: balanced and fairly light, with a touch of strawberry (but not too much), cherry (but not too much), and raspberry (again, not too much). Then there’s orange blossom, fresh kougelhopf, and—if we’re being fancy—some notes of pasteis de nata. Mouth: a few minor clashes at the start (grape versus grain, stalk against husk), but things quickly come together under the guidance of biscuits and brioches with little red fruits. It’s reminiscent of Lyon’s pralines, which, as we all know, have nothing to do with either Portugal or Scotland. Finish: medium in length, slightly winey, and firmly on crème de cassis. Comments: it’s good. I’m usually wary of Port-finished whiskies, but this one was well executed, even if it leans quite ‘ruby’.
SGP: 641 - 83 points.

Glen Moray 11 yo 2008/2024 (54.6%, Watt Whisky, oloroso hogshead finish, 318 bottles)

The head of Whiskyfun’s Mathematics Department pointed out some discrepancy in the figures, but honestly, who cares? Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh yes, this is lovely—chestnuts and walnuts mixed with sunflower and peanut oil, followed by fresh apples and morning raisin rolls. Nothing to fault. With water: an entire truckload of fresh nuts. Mouth (neat): excellent, with a rich, pâtisserie-like fruitiness, then honeyed blood oranges with a dash of white pepper. A proper flavour carnage—and “carnage” is positive in English too, is it not? With water: now it’s all about the creams—vanilla cream, orange crème brûlée, crema catalana… Too bad “Andalusian cream” isn’t a thing unless we’re talking sherry, right? Finish: medium length, leaning towards soft pepper. A slight greenness in the aftertaste, balanced with buttery cream. Comments: superb. I hope the honourable bottlers won’t mind me saying so, but I can’t help wondering if this wouldn’t be the perfect whisky for flambéing prawns.
SGP: 551 - 87 points.

Glen Moray 32 yo 1990-1991/2024 (51.8%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, refill hogshead + refill sherry hogshead, 304 bottles)

I believe this is the penultimate edition of Whisky Sponge (#99), and it seems clear that The Sponge has quite the fondness for Glen Moray. Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s ripe, juicy melon taking immediate control, followed by dainty whispers of sawdust and grated coconut. It then unfolds into an intricate dance of aged white wines and venerable liqueurs mellowed by time—Chartreuse, pine, myrtle, a hint of Bénédictine, that sort of thing. With water: no dramatic shifts, but a touch of fresh putty or soft modelling clay appears in the mix. Mouth (neat): well, this is just about flawless. Lively and perfectly balanced, with zippy green apples, a peppery tang, subtle beer-like notes, a bit of cider, and even a faint yeasty, chalky twist. Remarkably, I’d even swear there’s a hint of Savagnin in there— if you’ll indulge me. With water: beautifully nuanced, with soft honeys, aged sweet wines (a whisper of vintage Pinot Gris), and a touch of mint tisane though without some mint’s sharpness. Finish: not hugely long but wonderfully balanced, with aged dessert wines, honeys, and meads—all light, with no cloying heaviness. Quite the opposite, in fact. Comments: delicate and profoundly gentle (aside from a vigorous initial attack on the palate). Just give it time and use quality water. Top-drawer stuff—cheers to the independents!
SGP: 551 - 91 points.

(Merci, Franco)

Check the index of all Glen Moray we've tasted so far