Quickly, some cognac and armagnac


May 5, 2024

Quickly, some cognac and armagnac
(a somewhat cursed session)

These aged wine brandies continue to win the hearts of whisky enthusiasts. Today, however, we will avoid the somewhat stereotypical verticals, especially since the common practice of storing in demijohns, although making a lot of sense, often prevents having a very precise notion of the age of these spirits. A 1960 might actually be much younger than another from 1980... unless, of course, all the data are provided by the bottlers, which is increasingly common. Anyway, we love them! But let's start with a quick little aperitif...

Folle Blanche
(Jules Troncy, 'Traité général de viticulture', 1901)

Oh by the way, the news this week reported that Campari has just bought the Courvoisier cognac brand for over a billion euros, while the house was previously owned by Suntory Global Spirits

(formerly Beam-Suntory). That said, it's not the type of cognac we try often at Whiskyfun; we much prefer cognacs from own estates or high-quality small négociants/éleveurs. Anyway, moving on (but still, over a billion euros!)

ABK6 'VS' (40%, OB, Grande Champagne , +/-2023)

This is likely the youngest of the cognacs from the Abécassis/ABK6 house. Sometimes advertised as a blend by some merchants, but my bottle clearly states 'Grande Champagne'. Of course, it could still be a blend from different Grande Champagne areas. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a hint of grape stems, sultanas, vanilla, liquorice allsorts, peach skins, and a bit of cane syrup. It's quite fresh, with no detectable caramel or woodiness, and maybe there isn't any. Mouth: rather pleasant, a bit sweet, then herbaceous. A note of thick-skinned grape berry. There's some cane syrup, but unfortunately, the overall experience dips a bit afterwards and becomes somewhat weak. It lacks presence, despite a liquorice aspect. Finish: short, still a bit herbaceous, with grape berry notes, even a hint of muscat. Liquorice returns in the aftertaste. Comments: on the other hand, this very young cognac is marketed as a cocktail component. I always find this rather diminishing for an aged spirit (not the use in cocktails but making it a marketing angle). Still, it remains a very decent cognac.
SGP:451 - 77 points.

Giboin 2003/2024 (46.5%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Fins Bois, cask #602, 120 bottles)

Giboin 2003/2024 (46.5%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Fins Bois, cask #602, 120 bottles)
A very nice estate in the Borderies, but this time it is a Fins Bois as they also own vines in that Cru. Already a nice age for a Fins Bois, these cognacs are usually 'swallowed' by the younger large-volume cognacs. But good houses are bottling some superb 'single' Fins Bois these days. Colour: deep amber. Nose: a very pretty nose, featuring brown sugar, maple syrup, dark nougat, then a blend of very ripe exotic fruits, figs, and a tiny hint of rubber, which, in reality and in this context, adds structure. There's also a bit of icy mint. Mouth: quite robust this time, with a mix of spices, caraway, then that famous dark nougat, and notes of black tea leading to a fairly pronounced woodiness. Roasted almonds and chestnuts too. Finish: rather long, with a bit of glue, a slight bitterness that suits it well (still that black tea, some pronounced pepper) and chocolate stuffed with orange jelly in the aftertaste. Yes, in the Dalmore style, if you will. Comments: The woodiness is quite prominent but reasonable in this somewhat rustic yet very high-quality cognac. To take on a picnic?
SGP:461 - 87 points.

Domaine d'Espérance 2003/2024 (48.4%, Grape of The Art, Bas-aramagnac, cask #60, 257 bottles)

Domaine d'Espérance 2003/2024 (48.4%, Grape of The Art, Bas-aramagnac, cask #60, 257 bottles)
100% baco hybrid here. The domain is located in Mauvezin-d'Armagnac, just east of Labastide while we've already had a rather grand official Espérance 2001 earlier in February (WF 90). So, there's hope (oh, good one S.! Pff…) Colour: gold. Nose: the absolute opposite of the Giboin cognac, with lots of fresh orchard fruits, not necessarily all fully ripe but this adds even more complexity. 'Of course' there are mirabelles, apples, nectarines, apricots... Then, I find plenty of notes from old agricole rum, especially the floral aspect (ylang-ylang). In the end, we find those wonderful sweet yet dry white wines (you see what I mean) from the South-West of France, like Jurançon moelleux. Mouth: nice tension on slightly salty apple at the start, with a lovely acidity, (this time it's a dry Jurançon!) and powerful honey, like oak honeydew. Nougatine then adds some roundness, followed by sweet liquorice. Still maintaining a very nice tension in the background, this Armagnac can be enjoyed like a wine (but in smaller quantities, don't get me wrong). Finish: long, beautiful, sweeter, balanced, driven by liquorice and honey. Comments: extremely good.
SGP:641 - 90 points.

Amusingly, this Armagnac was smoother and more civilised than the previous cognac. Let's continue…

Domaine de Poutëou 21 yo 2001/2023 (48.6%, Alabat, Bas-armagnac, cask #340, 250 bottles)

We're in the very same region here, in Lannemaignan this time. These young independent bottlers really take great care with their labels and are not afraid to break the mould, making them closer to the new wave vintners. Honestly, it's fantastic; traditional dressings in Scotland, France, or elsewhere can sometimes be so dull and formulaic they could make a brick cry. Colour: amber. Nose: leans towards caramel, fudge, nougat, popcorn, maple syrup, pancake sauce, then quince jelly, peppermint, cider, followed by dandelions, lilies, wisteria (mine are in bloom at WF Towers, forcing me to close my windows each time I taste, it's that powerful. Really.) Then again touches of agricole rum. A very pretty nose, classic and balanced, without harshness. Mouth: the slight roughness of the Armagnac country adds structure to this avalanche of citrus and, I insist heavily, agricole rum. I swear, there's a Neisson-like aspect! Slight varnish, bananas, liquorice, Earl Grey. Finish: the same. A magnificent finale, both soft and taut, very moreish. They should really make magnums (ha). Comments: it's also true that we are at the heart of where it's delightful.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

We're heading back to the Cognac region...

Godet 24 yo 1999/2024 (47.1%, OB, Petite champagne, single cask, Spring 2024 Edition)

Godet 24 yo 1999/2024 (47.1%, OB, Petite champagne, single cask, Spring 2024 Edition)
100% ugni blanc. It is said that the Godet house is the second oldest in all of Cognac, founded in 1588 in La Rochelle (rugby and sailing fans ahoy). They therefore surpass Bowmore, Glenturret, and Littlemill simultaneously in this regard. For a bit of trivia, the French word 'godet' can also be translated as 'wee dram' in Scottish. Colour: brilliant gold. Nose: starts with wood polish and dandelion flowers, then ripe peaches and quince jelly, followed by acacia and elderflower, then meadow honeys and nectars, and finally a twenty-year-old Sauternes from a balanced vintage. Add a bit of maple syrup and orgeat, and you have a nose that is quite compact—in the sense of being coherent—and rather magnificent. Mouth: the wood tickles immediately but is followed by fresh mushrooms (not the kind of mushrooms that are a flaw), then small herbs (verbena, chocolate mint) and candied citrus. Finally, canned peach drizzled with honey adds its traditional juicy touch. Finish: medium length, more liquorice-like, with some wood spices (cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg) and a bit of clove. A slight salty hint in the aftertaste, which always adds dimension. Comments: another rather splendid offering, to a degree likely to attract whisky enthusiasts. In any case, it works for the one at the keyboard. Excellent 'wee dram'.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

It seems we are on a streak of 90s...

Dartigalongue 1992/2024 (46%, OB, Bas-armagnac)

This one was just bottled in April by the famous house from Nogaro in the Gers. Colour: copper. Nose: it's a more traditional armagnac, with more chocolate, pipe tobacco, coffee, marmalade, prunes, darjeeling, rancio, old Maury, PX, old vintage Port, a little wood smoke, morels, beef bouillon… To be honest this is almost immediate post-WW2 Glenlivet. Hope I'm not ruffling any feathers here. Mouth: exactly. Very old-school, oak-forward (no flaw, a proper style), full of black tea, bitter chocolate, coffee-schnapps (you choose the schnapps), sloe spirit, umami sauce, old stout, sorrel soup, plus indeed those mushrooms. Probably the style that many Scots have tried, sometimes successfully, to recreate by using very active sherry casks. Finish: it is at this stage that the difference becomes very marked, with a rustic and very grapey side characteristic of these very traditional Armagnacs. Wood is very present in the aftertaste, but I insist, it's a style, not a flaw. Comments: so, a Speyside from Gers or an Armagnac from Speyside? Alright, let's stick to the label. The score won't surprise you…
SGP:371 - 90 points.

Lhéraud 'Lot 70/23' (51.9%, Le Gus't, Petite champagne, 178 bottles)

Well, the very Macallany Lhéraud 78/23 by Le Gus't had fetched… 90 indeed, back in March. Is this some kind of positive curse? The 90-curse? I swear I'm not making this up. Indeed this should be a 1970, great vintage in southwest France. Ah, Latour '70! Colour: golden amber. Nose: It leans closer to old bourbons, with vanilla and aged varnish, then a whopping fifty tonnes of mirabelles, and perhaps even a hint of mirabelle brandy. This aspect is really astonishing but of course, if you love mirabelle as much as I do, you'll be in heaven. Quite a bit of praline as well. With water: it becomes a bit more herbaceous, more on fruit peels, even wine lees. Mouth (neat): a lot of stewed fruits, still with mirabelles, as well as apples and pears, quince, nougat, marzipan with kirsch, and always a bit of varnish. Bergamot too. There are people who despise bergamot but I will never understand them; I adore bergamot. Swiss-style apricot brandy. With water: this time it stays fruity, but you'll have to settle for a drop or two of water. Finish: long, quite green, herbaceous. It's like a young cognac! Green pepper. Comments: this one, excellent though it is, gave me more trouble. It must be me... It remains a great old cognac. That said, it relates to the vintage effect; I had tasted some 1970 Pauillacs which, indeed, took a long time to shed their harsh and closed side.
SGP:571 - 87 points.

Let's move on to the era of The Doors, Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Léo Ferré, Jacques Brel...

Arbellot de Vacqueur 'Lot No.67' (52.4%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, Bons Bois, 2023)

A little Cognac house I had never heard of before, but then again, I am probably to Cognac what Donald trump is to the clavichord. Useless. Colour: copper amber. Nose: varnish, preserved peaches, acacia honey, hessian, camphor, eucalyptus. With water: sublime earthiness. Visiting an old temple in Nepal, an old wine cellar in Burgundy, a mushroom farm in the Loire Valley, a fir forest in Scandinavia... Mouth (neat): a marvellous earthy and phenolic character, packed with mushrooms, glue, acetone, varnish, even sweet vinegar, mango brandy (a very special thing), olive oil... It has gone wild and we love that. With water: magnificent. Sandalwood and cedar, old cigars, earth and wet moss... Finish: medium length, heavily leaning towards moss, algae, and roots. Comments: the only problem is that it is almost impossible to dilute them properly. Unlike most whiskies and some rums, these spirits tend to 'snap' as soon as you add just one drop of water too many—a kind of threshold effect. That said, we totally love this very earthy 1967 Arbellot de Vacqueur. And we have overcome the Indian sign...
SGP:462 - 91 points.

Domaine de Baraillon 1963/2023 (45%, OB, Bas-armagnac)

More from the fauve sands. This is a tirage from October 2023. I've nosed it before and I believe it is an unusual Baraillon. Colour: copper. Nose: It's very 'cooked' on the nose, almost like a fruit sauce with prunes and perhaps red wine, maybe Madiran since we're in the region. Indeed, it's very 'tannat', with a gamey edge. Quite astonishing, it also brings to mind a Cahors (Cahors was very heavily hit by hail three days ago—sending courage their way!) Behind all this are some wild herbs and, frankly, garlic cep mushrooms. Lautrec garlic is the best. We're truly in the region; only the duck breasts and foie gras are missing. Mouth: pronounced wood, mint, very dark chocolate, substantial pepper, unsweetened coffee, game, cloves, dried parsley... And a magnum of the most extreme red Madirans. I recommend Château d'Aydie; it's inexpensive and superb, but it needs time in the cellar. In any case, we have a Baraillon that is truly unlike any other. Finish: it begins to recover but it's a bit late. Still a lot of bitter chocolate, barely saved by Seville oranges and strong mint. Comments: what an unusual Baraillon...
SGP:271 - 85 points.

One last one... Much older...

François Voyer 'Lot 28 Le Sourire' (41%, Malternative Belgium, Grande champagne, demi-john, 2023)

It seems this demijohn was bottled on Belgian National Day, which, to my great surprise, does not coincide with the International Day of Shrimp Croquettes (I.D.S.C.). Note that this Cognac was distilled 95 years ago, the year one of our heroes Horace Silver was born. Colour: copper gold. Nose: what splendour! We do not know the age of this Cognac, at least not when it was transferred to the demijohn, but the person who oversaw this process must surely have been a genius. Incredible ancient peach liqueur, Atlas honey (the best in the world), argan oil, very old green Chartreuse, similar Bénédictine, precious figs, saffron cream... But what splendour indeed! Mouth: one might have thought it would be a bit fragile on the palate, but not at all. Incredible citrus and small aromatic herbs, a hundred different honeys, three drops of orange juice, sweet woodruff syrup, peach liqueur again and again, a bit of sweet mint... Finish: yes, and it's truly regrettable. But what follows the finish of a great cognac is always a great cognac (please cut the crap, S.) Comments: unbelievable. 1928, that's when The Kellogg–Briand Pact was signed in Paris, it was the first treaty which outlawed 'aggressive war'. No comment.
SGP:551 - 93 points.

Yes, I've noticed that we've ended up doing this session vertically. We just can't help it, is it serious, Herr doctor?

(With thanks to the Whisky Kingdom and other friends)

Check the index of all armagnacs and cognacs we've tasted so far