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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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December 13, 2024 |
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Recent names, some with bravos
Here are a few new names, chosen completely at random… Let’s see what we come up with. |

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Isle of Harris 'The Hearach First Fill Oloroso Matured' (46%, OB, 2024) 
After mastering the art of their marvellous core batches, the good folks at Harris have treated us to this full Oloroso expression. A logical step, wouldn’t you say? Colour: golden, which is comforting to see. Nose: it’s like the classic Hearach but draped in a layer of dark chocolate and a drizzle of walnut wine, with a whiff of Italian bitters—Cynar, Amaro, that sort of thing. Wonderfully done here; it lends a touch of wildness, even a faintly gamey side (wild boar terrine, if you like). Is there wild boar on Harris? Mouth: the same sentiments carry through. Think of the standard Hearach with an extra helping of chilli-spiked chocolate and walnut wine. A subtle mustardy note emerges, always underpinned by that saline quality, and dare I say, it feels even more ‘Fort William’ than its elder sibling. Hints of tar, carbon, motor oil, and a smudge of pencil eraser kind of round things out. Finish: much the same story, with a cracking dryness. Chilli and stout linger in the aftertaste. Comments: clever stuff, this. The Oloroso complements the distillate beautifully, never overstepping its mark. I was ready to be slightly less impressed—wrongly so, as it turns out. Who said, "yet again"?
SGP: 362 - 88 points. |

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Roseisle 12 yo ‘The Origami Kite 2’ (55.6%, OB, Special Release 2024, first fill and refill bourbon) 
We quite enjoyed the first edition last year (WF 85). I remember visiting the distillery just as it was firing up for the first time—quite the spectacle. Back then, everyone thought it was a behemoth poised to dominate the scene, but it seems to have settled into a quieter role, with Glenfiddich and Glenlivet, among others, comfortably outstripping Roseisle’s capacity now. Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely, ‘small’ malt whisky, very well crafted, with no rough edges but staying close to the fundamentals—barley, sponge cake, ripe banana, cornflakes, hay, nougat, and a hint of mild ale. With water: a touch of white chocolate joins in, along with Golden Grahams and Fruit Loops. Now my kids are grown now, so the precise nuances of those cereals are fading in memory. Mouth (neat): absolutely delightful. Simple, but in no way a drawback, and with a more pronounced citrus note on the palate. The texture is lovely—thick and almost oily. With water: this is where it truly shines, delivering a perfect apple-and-lemon duet. Finish: fairly long, and consistent with the rest. Comments: loves a bit of water, this one. A very, very good malt whisky—balanced and approachable, though perhaps not particularly distinctive.
SGP: 551 - 86 points. |

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Arbikie (48%, OB, Highland Rye, single grain, 2024) 
A single-estate whisky, technically a ‘grain’ since it’s not a pure malt, made with a mash bill of 60% rye, 15% wheat, and 25% malted barley. We found the 2022 edition rather tricky (WF 69), but here we are again with a fresh palate and an open mind. Colour: gold. Nose: well, here we go—rustic toasted country bread, pumpernickel, sprouted seeds, poppy seed loaf, and a touch of grapefruit to tie it all together. A charming nose. Mouth: yes, it works. Still a bit woody, but the turmeric and ginger notes stand out boldly, giving it an intriguing aged-gin character that’s rather effective. Once again, citrus steps in to try to harmonise things and prevent the wood from dominating the conversation. Finish: fairly long, fresh, with citrus, juniper, coriander seed, mustard, and even a hint of radish. Comments: I think the earlier batches had a sweetness that’s gone now, and I believe they’ve made real progress with this rye whisky. Europe is awash with ryes these days, so it’s only natural more Scots are joining the party.
SGP: 550 - 75 points. |

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Arbikie ‘Artist Edition 1’ (46%, OB, Francis Boag Edition, single grain, casks #104 + 108 + 114 + 115, 1,200 bottles) 
Made with Concerto barley along with carefully selected wheat and rye, this one has been ‘enhanced’ with Calvados casks, which does detract a bit from the whisky’s ‘local’ character—but hey, it’s a free world, isn’t it? The price is steep (£200), though you do get a limited edition print from the artist to sweeten the deal. Colour: gold. Nose: beautifully fresh and, surprisingly, easier and fruitier than the core release. Notes of hazelnut bread, apricot, and pear mingle with hints of lavender and violet, giving it a distinctly Provençal vibe. The Calvados influence remains subtle, but the wood is a touch more assertive here. Mouth: yes, this is good—brightly citrusy and nicely spiced, with cumin, rosemary, black radish, and that familiar juniper-and-coriander duo. There’s also a drizzle of honey, adding a delicate sweetness. Finish: fairly long, with a noticeable woodiness. Ginger and cinnamon take the lead, followed by a firm note of bitter orange that dominates the aftertaste. Comments: I really like this edition. And anyway, it’s always worth supporting artists in a world that seems increasingly… Trumpian.
SGP: 650 - 79 points. |

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Holyrood (60%, OB, PX hogshead, cask #89, 232 bottles, 2024) 
As you may know, Holyrood is all about the yeasts, and this time they’ve used DY379, DY502, and Bollicine wine yeast—the latter being similar to champagne yeast, famed for its efficiency and aggressiveness. Fun fact: the last time I distilled honey, I had to use champagne yeast as it’s about the only thing that can ferment honey, given how naturally resistant it is. Experts say that Bollicine "enhances aromas of the terpenic type, adds freshness, and gives a light citrus note—excellent for Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio." Well, this isn’t Chardonnay—it’s barley. Colour: gold. Nose: Holyrood’s new makes are usually my favourites, but this works well enough. Loads of marrons glacés, orange cake, Jaffa cake, pink grapefruit, and thankfully, no trace of Pinot Grigio - naturally. With water: freshly cut vegetation, flowers in a vase, faint hints of diluted Thai sauce, and a touch of prune. Mouth (neat): quite a feisty little beast—earthy, a bit aggressive, and leaning towards slightly acidic elements, but at 60%, what else can you expect? With water: much the same. Overripe plums and strawberries show up. Finish: it’s fine. Comments: I’d love to try this in its natural state, without the slightly clumsy influence of one of those miserable PX casks that seem to have infiltrated all of Scotland, even up to Orkney. But I’m just repeating myself, aren’t I?
SGP: 530 - 78 points. |

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Glasgow Distillery 5 yo 2018/2024 (61.1%, OB, Keeble Cask Company, Fragrant Drops Collection, fresh bourbon barrel, cask #193, 232 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: a cheerful bundle of little sweets and a splash of tutti-frutti eau-de-vie, likely amplified by the sky-high strength. With water: still sweet, retaining that light, eau-de-vie character. Not quite as ‘fragrant’ as the name might suggest, in my humble opinion. Mouth (neat): much the same neat—brimming with little sweets, lemon drops, agave candies (the ones with the worm inside), and a splash of homemade limoncello. With water: shifts towards simple syrups, green tea, and herbal tisanes, with the faintest whisper of tropical fruits emerging from the fresh barrel. Finish: not very long but pleasantly fruity. Comments: a charming little drop for your hip flask. Perfect for slipping into a coffee for a proper Kaffee-Schnaps that still lets the coffee shine. It’s not Bowmore 1964 yet, but it’s thoroughly enjoyable and dangerously drinkable.
SGP: 441 - 78 points. |

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Isle of Harris 5 yo 2018/2024 ‘The Hearach’ (59.7%, OB, single cask, for LMDW Foundations, bourbon ex-Heaven Hill, cask #1789, 247 bottles) 
Yes, I know we’ve already had a Harris today, but so what? I must say, it’s quite dashing to reserve cask #1789 for France (it’s the Bastille year, after all—don’t tell me that’s a coincidence!). Colour: white wine. Nose: the peat feels much more assertive than just ‘15ppm’. This nose is intensely smoky, saline, sooty, dry, and packed with ashes—though the high ABV might be amplifying things. With water: classic notes of raw wool, chalk, mud, flour, and a touch of brine. Mouth (neat): smoked apple, peppered seawater, and chilli-spiked lemon—it’s all going swimmingly. With water: tricky to dilute, as it seems to falter sharply around 50% ABV for some reason. That said, at 51%, it’s spot-on, with lovely green olives tossed in ‘on the house.’ Finish: long, saline, and citrusy, still carrying those green olives and, believe it or not, a hint of pastis. Comments: for me, much like with, say Springbank, I still prefer the simpler entry-level expression as my go-to. That said, this is excellent, maybe just a touch demanding to savour properly.
SGP: 464 - 85 points. |

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Inchdairnie ‘Finglassie’ 7 yo 2017/2024 ‘Peated’ (57.7%, James Eadie, 2nd fill oloroso finish, cask #374468, 125 bottles) 
If everyone starts using 2nd fill casks for finishings, we’re going to agree by default—although it might all start feeling a tad convoluted. Colour: gold. Nose: used motor oil, petrol, roasted almonds, charcoal, damp earth, and… equatorial rainforest (wait, what?). With water: metal notes, silver cutlery, loose change, old copper, and the engine of a vintage car—practically steampunk in a glass. Mouth (neat): insane stuff—concentrated pinewood, wild pepper, Bündnerfleisch, and smoked ham cured over resinous logs. Is any of this even legal? The pepperiness is absolutely off the charts. With water: add coffee, snuff tobacco, and salted mint chocolate to the mix. Utterly bonkers, but in a way, quite loveable. Perhaps it’s time we all saw a therapist—yes, I know we’ve been saying that for twenty years here. Finish: long, mentholated, chocolatey, and smoky. Comments: I feel the brilliant folks at James Eadie ought to include an instruction manual with bottles like this. In multiple languages, please—Mandarin, Russian, Alsatian, you name it. Honestly, this one defies scoring.
SGP: 375 – (on hold) points. |
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