Return of the rums on Whiskyfun


September 28, 2024

Return of the rums on Whiskyfun

After armagnacs and cognacs, some of intergalactic calibre, let's return to rums this Sunday, and I'm sure a few will send us to the stars as well (don't make me say what I didn't say!).

Trois Rivières 2007 (42%, OB, Martinique, agricole, cognac cask, cask #M2-15)

Not entirely sure when this single cask was released, though it’s clear it spent a good spell in ex-cognac Limousin oak. Colour: gold. Nose: unmistakably with pencil shavings, gorse, and fresh cane juice, followed by a touch of cinnamon cookies. The cognac influence comes through gently, offering just three sultanas and half a ripe peach, which is fine by me. Mouth: much the same impression, with liquorice, cedarwood, and cinnamon leading the charge before ripe plums, peaches, and apricots make an appearance. It leans heavily on the oak, but I’d say that works quite well for this style of rum. Finish: there’s that subtle salty note you often find in Martinique and Guadeloupe, accompanied by oak, tea, pepper, and a bit more cinnamon in the aftertaste. Comments: fully aged on location, and you can tell, especially with a cask as active as this one. Still, it feels true to the local style.
SGP:571 - 82 points.

Let’s stay in France…

Isautier 13 yo 2008/2023 ‘L’aventurier’ (58%, OB, La Réunion, LMdW, 581 bottles)

This one’s a ‘rhum traditionnel’, meaning molasses-based from column stills, not cane juice like agricole. We’ve seen some cracking Isautier lately, which is a surprise as we used to think they mainly dabbled in ‘arranged’ rums (flavoured or infused). Colour: full gold. Nose: there’s a delightful ‘bourbon’ feel to this, in the best sense, with vanilla, oranges, and just a hint of varnish, followed by beautifully ripe bananas and apricots. A touch of grated coconut, though with restraint. With water: orange cake and vanilla cake—a perfect little breakfast, I reckon. A touch of grey pepper too. Mouth (neat): an absolute explosion of exotic fruits and honey. Pineapple, banana, and apricots all drenched in honey and maple syrup. Though to be fair, it’s a bit hot to enjoy neat. With water: it becomes spicier and more floral, with a gentle curry paste vibe—ideal for your poultry, be it chicken, guinea fowl, goose, duck, or even capon (they’ve got it, S.). Finish: fairly long, mellow, with well-behaved spices, honey, and soft liquorice lozenges. Comments: a lovely balance of sweetness and power, which we’re very fond of.
SGP:651 - 85 points.

Ten Cane 12 yo 2012/2024 (58.6%, Whisky Concerto, Trinidad, Recital 8.1)

We remember Ten Cane as a distillery launched in 2007 by LVMH in Trinidad, but it was closed rather quickly. Still, this is pure cane juice distilled in pot stills. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s surprisingly soft and even light for a pot still rum, but the fruitiness is lovely, with the usual bananas, a bit of white chocolate, and a touch of oiliness in the background. I doubt they were aiming for an ester-forward rum, likely not, as it seems they were targeting the American market. With water: not much change here. Mouth (neat): it’s sharper, more mineral, and salty, with more esters this time around. Reminds me a bit of a low-marque Worthy Park. Lovely notes of mangoes. With water: it finds a beautiful balance, becoming more agricole-like, with an increasing presence of citrus and even a bit of seawater. It’s improving, and I’m liking it more and more. Finish: more vegetal and mineral, and you might even say black olives are showing up... Comments: a very nice development, but it does need a bit of time. Perhaps LVMH should’ve called in Beyoncé—or maybe Naomi Chin Wing.
SGP:542 - 85 points.

Brazil 13 yo 2011/2024 (55.5%, FRC for Sea Shepherd, Kirsch Import, American oak + Imburana)

It seems this noble offering (right, 100 points for the cause) is made from both molasses and cane juice. As for imburana, I believe it’s the same as amburana (Amburana Cearensis), sometimes used in artisanal cachaça, and let’s hope it has no connection to Amazon deforestation. Colour: gold. Nose: the wood is overwhelmingly present, but to be fair, cherry or wild cherry wood is highly aromatic. Trust me, I used to sell furniture when I was a student. Really. Plenty of varnish and cherry stones, which on the nose are almost the same thing. With water: glue and varnish, like the latest batch from Ikea, or a fresh wetsuit… Mouth (neat): incredibly original, which of course makes it instantly likable. Rubber, kirsch, bitter almonds, varnish, sour cherries... With water: we’re sailing through all sorts of stone fruits, from cherry to plum. Putty, varnish, hint of soap, and pine resin, which is becoming more prominent. Finish: long, with a massive burst of lemon finally stepping in to take charge, plus heaps of bay leaves. Comments: it’s got a medicinal edge and is downright mad. Very mad, actually. Hold on, was it cachaça?
SGP:372 - 86 points.

Mhoba ‘Strand 101’ (58%, OB, South Africa, +/-2023)

They mention it’s a ‘high ester and glass cask blend’. Glass cask? Have our dreams finally come true? This is distilled from local Nkomazi cane juice. Colour: gold. Nose: I absolutely love this. Half-rotten bananas and petrol—believe me, there’s nothing more beautiful, and for once, I’m not joking. With water: cauliflower and leek! All in a vanilla sauce. Mouth (neat): I adore it. Varnish, overripe yellow fruits, brine, petrol. Who hasn’t siphoned their mate’s car after running out of fuel in the middle of nowhere? With water: this is so weird, and so good. Together with that crazy Brazilian rum, they make quite the pair. Finish: long, acetic, and downright bacterial. I’m a big fan of this. Comments: it’s like a glue spirit, and I’m almost embarrassed to say I totally love it. Hats off to the South Africans—they make their rum like they play rugby: with no unnecessary frills.
SGP:563 - 89 points.

Since we were talking about rugby...

Fiji 2015/2024 (60.90%, Zn09, 195 bottles)

From South Pacific, naturally, often called the "Jamaicans of the Pacific." Much respect for the Fijians, and of course for Zéro Nine Spirits, who offer us what is likely a wonderfully excessive rum. Colour: pale gold. Nose: ah, not an ultra-estery Fijian, it’s actually rather gentle, with notes of vanilla and apple, older wood, and yellow flowers. You get the picture. With water: indeed, a few faint hints of old putty, but that’s about it as far as phenols or esters are concerned. Mouth (neat): let’s say it’s a Fijian halfway in style, somewhat reminiscent of the Ten Cane we just tasted. It really seems to need water. With water: lovely, well-balanced, apples and oranges, with a bit of blond tobacco. Finish: medium length, with a slightly sweet aftertaste. Orange liqueur. Comments: really nice, but without the usual rough edges. We’ve got more Zn09 to taste, so we’ll see how those go very soon.
SGP:640 - 82 points.

Jamaïque 2013/2023 (65.5%, L’Esprit, Maison de l’Hédonisme 10th anniversary, cask #MDH 2013-1, 246 bottles)

Maison de l’Hédonisme? Love that! Colour: full gold. Nose: classic esters, but of the lighter, rounder Jamaican variety, so we already have an idea of what this is not. Brilliant, with a few dry, bushy notes, followed by unexpected wafts of geranium flowers, rose jelly, and a sweet Tokaji-like quality. It’s perfectly balanced and delicate, almost like a top white Irouléguy (just for the wine geeks who may have wandered onto WF by mistake). With water: glue, fresh plywood, wallpaper paste, beeswax, and some all-purpose car polish (does it all, but best not to drink it). Mouth (neat): absolute beauty, tense, simple, ultimate. Vineyard peach, petrol, seawater, and mango. Nothing to discard in this likely Worthy Park. With water: I’m flat on my stomach now, which makes typing on a MacBook quite tricky. Finish: long. Oranges, seawater, petrol, papayas, and tar. Comments: what a magnificent spirit. Such a shame the origin can’t be disclosed—too bad for the distillery.
SGP:653 - 90 points.

Caroni 1999/2024 ‘Rum Bullion’ (58.9%, Jean Boyer, Trinidad, cask #223, 262 bottles)

Still thinking about you, Jean Marie. Colour: amber. Nose: this is unreal. Every type of wood imaginable (beech, oak, fir, walnut, cedar, thuja, cherry...) plus glue and varnish. It’s like a symphony orchestra that Walt Disney himself wouldn’t have disowned. Throw in some tar, pitch, ski wax, and more varnish. With water: only slightly fruitier, with a touch of stone fruits, especially cherries. A bit of lanolin. Mouth (neat): loads of resinous wood, which theoretically shouldn’t be great, but in this specific context, it works a treat—especially as it ties in with peach skin, leading to fresh peach. You get the drift. With water: rubber, plastic, tar, chervil, and grapefruit. As we say in French, ça bastonne—it’s a real brawl. Finish: long, resinous, tarry, and increasingly bitter. Comments: best not to add too much water here. The wood’s almost taken control, but it’s Caroni, so of course it’s a bit mad.
SGP:373 - 89 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far